Cross brake judder
 

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[Closed] Cross brake judder

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What's that about then? I don't remember ever having this on old moutain bikes with catis. I was convinced my new cross bike had a loose headset as on steeep decents where I was using the front brake more I get judder.

Apparantly this is common on CX bikes, but why?

Here's my set up have I done something wrong?
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:08 pm
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It's fork flex. Swap to a fork mounted cable hanger.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:11 pm
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See that little hole in the forks?

You can get an adapter that holds the cable that is attached to that hole

It holds the cable lower down, and somehow( Not sure of all the ins and outs) it'll help reduce it.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:13 pm
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ahhh I have seen them now you mention it, I just had a steer tube mounted one knocking about. Hmm that will mean new cable outer though! Think i will wait till its time to change its not that bad. So why didnt mountain bikes have the same issue ?


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:19 pm
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you could try dropping the straddle cable a bit.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:19 pm
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Stiffer heavier forks.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:20 pm
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New fork?

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/carbon-cx-fork


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:32 pm
 GDRS
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Try the straddle cable tip first Rich.

I had a set of mini V's on before and had no real flexing at all.

Looks the biz as a SS. Nice work.

G


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:39 pm
 JoB
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it's t do with the fork flexing affecting the length of the straddle wire and creating a harmonic

wwaswas - Member
you could try dropping the straddle cable a bit.

you want to raise the straddle cable to lessen the power of the brakes to stop judder, but that looks about the right place.

trying toeing the brake pads in more, then changing the brake pads, then fitting a fork mounted hanger

you could fit a fork-mounted hanger by putting an in-line cable adjuster and extra bit of outer on the existing cable


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:40 pm
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Ignore Jo he has absolutely no idea what he's talking about.

Or it might be me 😳


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:43 pm
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I had the same issue when I first rode the Kona JTS I bought off of rigid_carbon on here but he suggested this and it worked a treat:

[i]You will have to set up the front brake
with toe in.
If this is not set up the braking can be a bit scary!

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

Scroll down to 'toe in'.

Once they are set up , you will not have an issue[/i]


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:43 pm
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I had the same issue when I first rode the Kona JTS I bought off of rigid_carbon on here but he suggested this and it worked a treat:

[i]You will have to set up the front brake
with toe in.
If this is not set up the braking can be a bit scary!

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html

Scroll down to 'toe in'.

Once they are set up , you will not have an issue[/i]


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:43 pm
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Wot Jo said.

You need a hanger fitted to the fork.

http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 1:46 pm
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fork looks crap - get new one> http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/carbon-cx-fork


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:24 pm
 ton
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cable hanger on top of the forks will sort it.
this was a common fault on spesh tricross bikes early on.....i know cos i had 2

the forls are fine, they will not cause any judder.

simple fix

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/tektro-fork-mount-cable-hanger?gclid=CMOVvYLe4bkCFYPHtAod7CMAyg


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:31 pm
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Setting your toe in on the pads will sort most of the issue - photo makes it look like you've got them 'heal in'. Don't know if what all the others are saying about the fork mount cable stop will work - I've a carbon fork that won't take one anyway - but the correct toe-in gets rid of it for me.

I also run my straddle cable way lower than you have too - power is better. Just sayin' like...


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:44 pm
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straddle cable two finger gap - slight toe in.

looks like you have a big headtube so you will always have a long wire.

try the hanger it will sort it.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:47 pm
 DezB
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I got rid of it by fitting some of these:

[url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektro-926al-mini-v-brake-black-prod23904/ ]Mini Vs[/url]

+
[url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tektro-tektro-91712-v-brake-lead-pipe-with-adjuster-90-deg-prod18060/ ]these[/url]

They stop better and don't judder. Cross racers say they haven't got the mud clearance, but I'm not a cross racer. (and they are far easier to set up, but you'd know that already)


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:48 pm
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My forks judder on my spare / training bike, but never seem to brake enough in a race to find it a problem! 🙂


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 2:50 pm
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Topic starter
 

Thanks guys will have a play toeing the pads in and then invest in a fork mounted hanger. Hmmm our maybe just buy some nice carbon fork s 😉


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 6:52 pm
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+1 for the fork mounted cable hanger. My crosslight was unrideable when new, went back to Kenisis and they sent me a fork mounted hanger and some more cable outer and it was a different bike.

May have a spare somewhere as they sent two.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 7:02 pm
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Make sure the headset isn't loose too.

Any looseness can magnify any brake judder!

I gave up with mine in the end and went for the mini V option it cured it instantly.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 7:37 pm
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Mini-vs for me too. Didn't make any difference clearance-wise either for me as the frame was still more restrictive than the brakes.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 8:37 pm
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I had judder initially on my SuperX (carbon frame and fork) so plenty stiff enough, spoke to a national class rider, who rode the same frame, and recommended ditching the standard frog leg brakes, did this for avid ultimates, no more judder, loads more power, and no mud clearance issues, yes it's expensive, but it cured it.


 
Posted : 23/09/2013 9:29 pm

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