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I'm think of buying a pair on hope hubs, weighing in at 1460g they'd be great for racing / 24 hrs, and drop 280g's off my current wheelset.
Although I'd be happy with them on forest trails, are they a safe bet on a Wales/Peaks rocky battering?
The question is really of a) A decadent purchase bling additional wheelset for racing or b) less decadent because I can use the all the time.
??
I rode them daily in Wales around the trail centres. I'm assuming you're meaning the 24h Pro3s SP.
Mine took a beating and were fine, they're not particularly stiff, but they are very light.
No, PRO2 Evo's - option for Straight or J Pull...
I'm 80kg and use crests in the Peak. They've a few scrapes on them but the only time I did any more damage was when I pinch flatted and then clattered a couple more rocks before stopping (there's a small ding in the rim but they trued up OK and still run tubeless without problems). They're not a race wheel, when I bought them they were bang in the middle of the Stans range between the weight-limited XC rims at one end and the full-on DH at the other.
I'm under 75kg and also no hucker. I flat-spotted one irreparably on my hardtail at somewhere less rim-killing than the peaks (Haldon) and without being able to pinpoint the fatal moment afterwards.
The whole cross section bent in - I'd post a photo but don't know how from a phone.
Anyway, so I think while you should be fine you might also be riding your luck a bit.
Mine was annoying because it was only a couple of months old. I replaced it with an Arch.
LOL @ Dales Rider - I should be fine then.
I still have the option to keep my current wheels for bashing about Welsh trial centres....
Pro2 Evos...1460g
Unlikely to be that weight, my Pro3s with 24 spokes on DT Revolution spokes weighed that.
More likely 1600g with DT comps, or a little less with DT revs.
You might get close to that weight with CX Ray spokes, but they're expensive....
I have used them since they replaced the 355 rim and ride Dartmoor mostly. They have been fine apart from the very first ride on Exmoor where I was using a tyre too small (2.1 Ignitor) and got a slow punture. Got a couple of dings in the rear wheel but it didn't go out of true and still runs tubeless OK. I'd say they're OK for general use provided you don't get a lot of air time and use fairly large volume tyres. They're not strong alloy though so if you are the sort who gets a lot of pinch punctures you'll risk bashing them up fairly quickly. 1460g sounds very light - is that correct?
I'm under 75kg and also no hucker. I flat-spotted one irreparably on my hardtail at somewhere less rim-killing than the peaks (Haldon) and without being able to pinpoint the fatal moment afterwards.
I did that too.
Although it was at Sligachan, when bunny hopping big water bars. Considering the battering they took over the week in the West coast, they held up very well, I'd be surprised if any rim survived that incident 🙂
rickon - Member
1460g
Pro2 Evos...
Unlikely to be that weight....
My mistake it was 1560, and I got that from the Stan's calculator http://www.notubes.com/Wheel_Weight_Calc.aspx
673 and 810 including Rotors is the actual measured weight of mine. XC3s BTW.
XC3s aren't they Pro3s with 24h spokes? Plus only 3 bolt Hope rotors, They're not apples for apples 🙂 Although proving the point that they can take a battering.
So pro2's x 32 will be a bit stronger - and a bit heavier?
Yes so shed another 300 off your bike with the XC3s, racing 2 hour you dont need strong wheels as the courses these days are mor like a cross course.
Hmm. The offer I had was Pro2's on Crest or Arch Ex @ £285. To go Pro 3 I'm back in the £300-£400 mark.
Mightn't bother then.
I ended up going for Arch Ex's, but I tend to ding rims on the downs flint.
The Pro3 SP/crest 26er wheel is lovely very very lovely I'm 11st in my wet lycra
I've also got the pro2/crest 29er and it's a lovely reasonably light wheel stays pretty true not like the SP one though which never needed a tweak.
The crest rim is pretty cheese like, any hit likely to damage the tyres (rocket rons) is also likely to have dinged the rim so I've occasionally had to take the pliers out to straighten a couple of wibbles.
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More than enough to ride down a flat pavement of rock pictured above!
Strength and hardness are 2 different things, people get the 2 confused I think... Crests aren't that hard- they ding relatively easily- but they're strong, so they don't break/develop massive dents/otherwise become a problem too easily.
Rims reasonably tough but wheels pretty flexy I thought (I'm between 12 and 13st).
Someone posted about bargain Crossmax STs yesterday, they'd be great for XC racing AND rougher riding.
chakaping - MemberSomeone posted about bargain Crossmax STs yesterday, they'd be great for XC racing AND rougher riding.
Saw those - but what do the numbers in brackets (on ribble) mean e.g (9/15 x 100) and which one's do I need for 6 bolt rotor, 15mm Front & QR rear?
My mate runs Crests and they take plenty of Lakes/Pennines abuse, though he doesn't jump. I reckon tons of folk run heavier duty Stans rims than they need to. Flows everywhere, when Arch EXs would be absolutely fine.
what do the numbers in brackets (on ribble) mean e.g (9/15 x 100)
Those numbers sound like the front hub spec.
Just had a look on Ribble, appears from pic to be a previous version of the wheelset. Worth dropping them a line to check.
I only have experience of the current model.
My Hope Pro2/Crest get a right battering and have been fine. I'm not that heavy and they are on a hardtail. Great set of do it all wheels (and my 29er set were only 200 quid 🙂 ) They aren't light though.
If you're after a light race wheelset there are better options out there.
My Pro 2/Crest hoops were 1585g FWIW.
Saw those - but what do the numbers in brackets (on ribble) mean e.g (9/15 x 100) and which one's do I need for 6 bolt rotor, 15mm Front & QR rear?
The CL ones are centre lock rotor fitting, the 9/15 x 100 is the front hub, without any adapters they're 15mm axle and QR with adapters that should be supplied with the wheels, the rears are all QR on those, only the newer ones come can be converted to 142 rear axles
The INTL ones are six bolt rotor versions, it does say they have a ceramic braking surface in the description which leads me to think they're the v brake rim versions as well, the pic looks like an older version not the currant one,
I'd ring em up to clarify exactly which ones they are..
Actionsports.de have some good deals on lightweight DT Swiss 240/stans wheels that come with a 15mm front hub at the mo.
Northwind is correct IMHO.
They are soft but quite tough for their weigh.
I'm clumbsy, 14st and not that slow downhill.
I've got crests tubeless on my 100mm XC hardtail and occasionally forget that I'm riding the lightweight bike. It gets hammered down bouldery stuff like Garburn & ICR and is quite happy dropping multiple 3ft flights of steps top to bottom.
No I can't claim that they've stayed true but they've not failed either and have always been easy enough to re-true now and then.
When I eventually kill them, I'll go up to Arch EX.
If the hardest thing they'll have to contend with is trail centres though, Crests will be fine.
Crests will be more than durable enough I'd have thought especially if you are keeping your wheels on the ground most of the time. I'm 75kg and have put lots of rocky, rooty Welsh miles on Podium MMX rims. They are more than fine on the less demanding trail centre trails too but around 1250g. I accept their overall lifespan is likely to be smaller than Crests but they are just so damn nice to ride. Alpines are also worth a look to drop some g's over Crests although you do end up with a narrower rim if this bothers you. Basically for racing/ 24 hours you'll be fine on Podium MMX (if under the weight limit)/ Alpine/ Crest.
Ive had a pair since April 2010 and have rattled themn around Peaks, Dartmoor, Quantocks, Swiss Alps and Moab (FWIW) on a Soul and they are fine. Maybe some truing during servicing but never serious. I am light (67kg) but clumsy. I guess 1,000 miles pa, most off road.
Not race wheels but fine for 'normal' use.
I run 2.4 tyres on crests and im quite a clumsy rider 🙂
Seem really nice to me, only ridden in the peaks once but it was on the good stuff and they are true as when they came out the box.
Ok thanks all. Seems like a pair of Crests on hope pro2 evo hubs would suit my purpose. NJEE as the weight officianado you've posted the same weight at the Stan's weight calculator - was that a "real" weight or Stan's weight?
Anyone else got a real life weight? Otherwise a set of those with J pull spokes will be on the way!
I run Crest's on my 29 HT (Solaris) and have dinged the heck out of them in about 3 months. I originally wanted Arch Ex but couldn't easily find them in the country and went for crest instead, wish id held out for the Arch Ex tbh.
Riding style though is everything and anything so not totally fair on the poor Crests.
I do have Flows on the 26 FS and they've been amazing with no dings so far.
My Pro II Evo/ CX-Ray/ Alpine/ Alu nips are 1475g. Add around 40g to that for Crests instead of Alpines. I'd have to check the difference brass nips make but I'd imagine it's another 40g or so. DT Revs will be pretty much the same weight as CX-Rays but I'd imagine you'd be looking at DT Comp spokes which adds another 50g minimum although again maybe Njee can add more accurate numbers to this.
I've happily used Crests for a couple of years and they performed perfectly. Since I stuck them on my Pig and started dirt jumping and crashing them, they've got a bit wobbly. A trip to Antur Stiniog increased the wobbles to about half an inch of side to side movement, but being a lazy ar*e I've continued to ride them like this and all has been well.
Pretty impressive really for an xc rim.
I've two pair of Hope Hoops Pro 2 evo SP 26's, weighed 1572g.
No issues and both run tubeless.
I'd call that weight confirmed then.
Merlin have Olympics for £309 - I guess that's a step too far for occasional Afan use on the asr5?
Merlin have Olympics for £309 - I guess that's a step too far for occasional Afan use on the asr5?
Not at all, Olympics will be more than fine unless you are constantly jumping off stuff (they are the old name for the Alpines, and are ~20g per rim lighter than Crests). They will be narrower (and taller) than Crests but that the only thing to watch out for. Podium MMX would be fine for Afan unless you are well over the weight limit!
Hmm, I'd prefer a wider rim as I run tubeless, would be happy for a 40g weight penalty for that and to be able to run 2.25's on them.
You'll be fine with 2.25's but much bigger would be less than ideal. There was a similar [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/ztr-alpinecrest-any-difference-in-terms-of-durability ]thread[/url] a year or so ago
I found Crests too light for my general tail riding. I ran them on a 456 Ti built up as a single speed trail bike with 120mm Reba's. At the time I was 13st 10lb to 14st 2lb.
They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment. I flat spotted on the third week, picked up numerous dings that deformed the bead and I had to true them every 2-3 weeks. After a summer of somewhat excessive maintenance on them, I stopped using them when I moved to a 29er, but I couldn't see them lasting for more than a year of so really.
I run tubeless, I run 2.1s, I run crests, I've had them 2 years they occasionally need truing but not by much. I weigh 205 lbs. Whats wrong with you lot are you clumsy or what ? 😛
I have a pair of 26er pro3 on crest that I may be looking to sell. Due to mainly (only!) riding 29ers these days.
Not pristine but true with good bearings.
(Sorry for the hyjack)
Ignitor 2.1s are particularly small. And it had a puncture. 😉
Added.
Run a 2.4 on the front, real nice profile.
Rear is an Ardent 2.25.
I thought there was a 90kg weight limit on those wheels however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build , which from Hope wasn't as good as I expected but the real issue here is can you put up with the freewheeling noise , it's a bit of a love it or hate it thing .
Ianfitz pm me with some photos and a price would you?
Alright with strong tyres. Need attention to spokes fairly often as the flex and work loose. Depends how you ride.
Im 65kg and Ive run Crest rims on Pro2's on my full suss for a while now. I generally get on with them but have had trouble when Ive run thinner sidewall tyres tubeless on the rear. I have killed two rear Crest rims with big dings , a crack and an irrepairable flat spot on rocky descents in the Highlands when using tubeless Conti rubber queen (non-UST) and HR (non-UST) on rear. I now only use UST rear tubeless tyres on them , keep an eye on the tyre pressure and they are lasting grand. the rims are cetainly not as hardy and ding resistant (IMO) as Mavic 719 or equivalent though.
Very useful thanks all. I'm 77kg and a wheels-on-the-ground type of rider, the most of a pounding they'll get would be Afan/CyB, otherwise only stuff you'll find in Southern forests 🙂
Should be fine then...
You worry far far too much. About everything!
Olympics/Crests/Alpines will be absolutely fine! Podiums would also be absolutely fine, if a little flexier.
Still got my DT240/Alpines.
They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment.
New wheels (if well built) shouldn't really need any adjustment.
however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build
true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak, just less weak than one built badly... From what I've heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.
true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak
But what weak rims are actually out there?
From what I've heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.
There is no weight limit on Crests, only on Hope's 24-hole Pro 3 builds which utilise them.
njee - I know 😕
Hopefully though I've secured some crests on Pro2 Evo's. 8)
You worry far far too much. About everything!
Uncanny. It's almost like you've met...
Going back OTish - what is the Iron Cross rim the 700c version of i.e. Alpine or Crest or something else...?
I too weigh 77kg and ride down south. I've got 2 pairs of Crests and find them pretty tough for what I do. The only issue I had was rim ding from a slow puncture that took a bit of persuasion to bend back and seal.
Pro 2 Evo with crests, rim tape and valves came in at 1530g with CXrays and brass nipples. Think the same build with DT comps was 1640g. Much as I love the 'better' build I can't tell the difference. I should have spend the money on better hubs (ACs) and used a cheaper spoke like a D light.
I run Crest's on my 29 HT (Solaris) and have dinged the heck out of them in about 3 months. I originally wanted Arch Ex but couldn't easily find them in the country and went for crest instead, wish id held out for the Arch Ex tbh.
Same here - mine came with a free flat-spot from the previous owner. :/
I have to admit - I'm not sold with them. I've had to rebuild the rear wheel (which was a pig - very easy to over-tension, and don't get me started on straight-pull spokes), they seem to flex quite a bit and compared to other 26" UST rims I've used (Mavic 819s and Shimano M776 wheels) are a pig to mount tyres on.
Next time I'm buying regular spokes and proper UST rims, excess weight be damned.
Width is not really a problem ime. I've had 2.35 Dampfs tubeless at low ish pressures on crests and never felt they might roll off. But damfs are a bit of a magic tyre.
But they flex and need regular tuning up , that's all
Crests? Useless as a rear rim, but okay on the front. Arch EX for the rear would be wise.
Irrespective of weight limits of not, a heavier rider is always going to flex component/wheels of any build more than a lighter rider, given the same riding style.
As I alluded to in my post, I found then nice and light, which paradoxically made the bike seem up for more aggro, but sadly they were a bit soft and a bit 'wangy', which is why I think I had to true them all the time. I'd certainly not use them in a 29er wheel build for my weight and riding style.
Well, they've arrived. Pro2 Evo's on Crests 32 spokes - 1543g on the kitchen scales with Stan's yellow tape.
I'm pleased :).
Seeing as they is the racing wheels, it's now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them.
it's now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them
You can now read all of the horror stories of getting X tyre on Crest rims 😉
Surely you don't mean tubeless, but tubeless ready.
Personally if it's racing only, I'd recommend Rocket Ron evos front and rear - paper thin, but very light, and great for racing - on one have them at £15 I think too :).
If it's for varied riding, I'd recommend Conti's MK2 front and XK rear. If you want less grip, a Schwalbe NN front and RR rear do the trick in Pacestar compound. If you want a floppy tyre on the rim, Maxxis have tyres too 😉
If you're after a bargain, and a decent tyre for trail riding, I'd recommend the On one Smorgasboard.
[i]Seeing as they is the racing wheels, it's now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them.[/i]
tbh You can pretty much tubeless-up any tyre. I've current got on my two sets; single-ply Minion, On-One Chunky Monkey, Ardent and Team XR4 - all tubeless using yellow tape.


