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I picked up a nice set of 2nd hand SS Components Sentinel wheels
Front hub is 15mm x 100mm
I want to convert to 20mm x 110
First problem - the tru-axle
The bearing in the hub is O/D 28mm I/D 15mm
I know I can get a bearing (though not common) of 28mm x 20mm to accommodate the 20mm maxle
One of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Needle-Roller-Bearing-SENRISE-Complement/dp/B07SFVHVMC
The it's a matter of getting a new 20mm sleeve made up to fit between the two bearings inside the hub shell
Then I need end cap spacers to fit between the hub shell and fork (and possibly a spacer for the disc rotor)
Is this do-able as I describe?
Am I missing anything?
Needle roller bearing won't be ideal in a front hub. I suppose it will sort of work but I wouldn't expect it to last very long and it'll take the axle with it. You will probably need to machine the hub to allow for the wider bearings, too. Given that you have a current(ish) standard hub and want to swap it to an older standard I look for new hub and sell the one you have.
Needle bearing ain't gonna work as it doesn't support side loads. As above you need a different hub unless you can machine the shell out to take correct bearings (joke).
Surely you could get an axle turned down with 20mm ends and a 15mm centre, one end male thread, the other female.
I'd be trying to address the axle. If that's not feasible then probably abandon the task and get a 20mm hub.
What fork?
You would be better off making reducers to fit in the fork so a 15 mm axle would work. Depends on the axle system how this would work
Threaded sleeve with 20mm male and 15mm female thread. Threads into disc side.
Floating 20mm/15mm sleeve to go in drive side.
Shoulders on inner faces to make up the hub width difference. MRP front IS mount to make up brake difference?
There's just no way it's going to work out easier to convert a hub that's not designed for it, than it will be to change the hub. Especially if you can find one that allows the reuse of the spokes.
But if you must then as some people mentioned a stepdown axle would almost certainly be the way to do it.
Just put a 20mm drill bit through the hub
You’re welcome
Thanks all
Not so easy then
I shall talk to my engineering friends and see if I can get some sort of axle such as suggested
MRP front IS mount to make up brake difference?
There's no brake mount offset difference on 15x100 and OG 20x110 hubs and forks, you're confusing it with Boost (unless the OP has new Boost 20mm forks?)
I shall talk to my engineering friends and see if I can get some sort of axle such as suggested
It'll still be better to rebuild the wheel with a 20mm hub.
Yep. You'll get a decent hub for £20, maybe less if you ask around (and you'll get that back selling your current hub). About 30 mins to rebuild the wheel. A bit longer if you're never done it, but it's a good thing to learn.
About 30 mins to rebuild the wheel
It's the perfect way to while away 110 minutes when your wife decides she wants to watch a film with you about "feelings" and "emotions" rather than something sensible about aliens and explosions.
chrishc777
Free MemberJust put a 20mm drill bit through the hub
You’re welcome
You can laugh but that's pretty much exactly how Hope "redesigned" the pro 2 for 12mm. And also why the axles kept breaking
Thanks - where can I get a hub for 20 quid ??
You can get axle reducers that screw into the fork, I've seen 15 to 12mm so it's quite likely that someone makes 20-15mm. A much better idea than jimmying in different bearings, but also possibly more expensive than a new hub.
where can I get a hub for 20 quid
eBay, pinkbike, Facebook marketplace. Try and find one with a similar flange size so you can reuse the spokes.
You still need a longer through axle with dropout reducers, maybe a 15x110 (boost) one would work but it's still an extra cost.
OP- are you trying to bodgineer your way around having to undo a working tubeless setup by any chance 'cos that's the reason I'm putting off rebuilding my front wheel onto a 20mm hub 🤣