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Been riding my Whyte with 200psi in the rear shock, 100psi in the RS Revs, but thought I'd tinker a bit this afternoon with sag ahead of a ride tomo.
Sag markings on the Monarch Debonair are showing just under 25% when at rest?? Does this mean the shock is stuck within its travel somehow?
In this pic 220psi is giving me 50% sag?? Can't be right (200lb rider).
Have you been equalising it when adding/removing air?
The quad ring seal that separates the positive and negative is leaking most likely. Not uncommon on a monarch. You'll need it fixed under warranty .
I had been, but this time just topped it up from 200 to 220 to see how much that would decrease the sag to.
So should I depressurise, put 100psi in, cycle it a few times, then top up? Do that each time I make an adjustment?
So should I depressurise, put 100psi in, cycle it a few times, then top up? Do that each time I make an adjustment?
In theory yes, though in this case I'll hazard it wont make any difference. Silly question the shock isn't travel limited is it, it can physically extend to "0"?
Silly question the shock isn’t travel limited is it, it can physically extend to “0”?
Not AFAIK, standard T-130S. Set the sag around 30%'ish when it was new, thought I'd try 25% then noticed the issue. Ah well, back to the shop I go.
Unlikely that it will work being as you have already added air but it's worth a try.
Pump it up and assist the back to full extension by liffting the frame and pushing the wheel down, this should equalise the +ve and -ve chambers. Then slowly let air out using the shock pump to get down to the pressure you want but make sure it doesn't sink in to the travel again.
It's likely the piston seal has leaked and will stick down again so will be a warranty job.
On its way back under warranty now. Thanks for the tips.
So for future reference, is adding/taking out 10 psi now and again when you are playing around with sag a bad idea? Should you take back to 100 psi and cycle it each time and back up to the pressure you want?
10psi at a time is no problem, when every you change the pressure it's a good practice to move the shock up and down a few times past its balance port to make sure that both chambers equalise and your pressure reading is then correct. Other than that it won't cause any problems. Bigger changes can without equalising the pressure can result in the shock being pushed too far one way or the other and difficult to get to move over the position where it will equalise and thus giving a false setting of seeming too firm or soft.
Got my rear shock back. Well, I didn't actually, RS have swapped it for a Monarch+ rc3. LBS reckons RS and Whyte have had a few issues with rear shocks on the Whyte frames, hence the upgrade.