[Closed] Commuting whats best?

Do you have space for another bike?
I personnally would prefer to use a 700cc wheel for commuting a decent length journey regularly in all weathers.
Doesn't have to be a new swish jobby, just some old racer maybe?
(or 2nd hand flat bar 700cc halford's hybrid - cheap on fleabay)

I did read this [i]"I only have the one bike and right now I'm not going to be getting another one just for commuting"[/i] but then ignored it BTW, as it's the most sensible option

As with all these threads you'll get the extremes of opinion and every type of recommendation.

Personally, I'd agree with Zippy and look to get another bike, commuting will comprise most of your riding time, why not have a more appropriate bike.

I rode in today on my carbon road bike with full Dura Ace and Power Tap wheel - why should your most used bike as a dog!? Depends where you leave it though. In winter I do use a Spesh Allez with mudguards and what not, but make no specific consolations to commuting.

Would definitely say that a road bike will be more pleasant, and then you'll be more inclined to get the miles in.

Commuting year-round on your good bike will ruin your good bike.

Get something dedicated to the job; you'll save money overall.

I would disagree with both of them. Mountainbikes are more comfortable and not that much slower if you put road tyres on. Disc brakes are such a boon when commuting.

For 20km i'd go for some fast 1" tyres, such as Conti gatorskin/grand prix 26", or specialized all condition pro. These are around 300 grams and very quick. Problem with is you'll spend the whole time in big ring using bottom couple of gears on the cassette, which will wear out pretty quickly. i did this for a while but eventually put 48t chainset on and road cassette.

The best option is definitely a commuting bike if you have room, even something cheap like a carrera gryphon.

I never used waterproof trousers (too sweaty), just a waterproof top and walking trousers. Full mudguards help a lot in staying dry. Its suprising how little its actually raining when you commute, but the ground is usually wet.

best way to stay clean and dry is to use proper mudguards... and luggage should go on the bike and not on your back

with the money and hassle of messing with the ragley do what z1ppy says and get a cheap hybrid...

but if you want to just use one bike:

Tyres - Schwalbe marathon in 26x1.5 or 1 3/8 - pretty puncture proof if a little slow but reliable and have reflecting strip..

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s142p1092

The racer version is quicker rolling that comes in 26x1.5
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s142p1628

can also get a folding version in the racer which is a bit lighter

also get some clip on mudguards

disc brakes are rubbish for commuting, pads pick up too much crud from the road and are pricier to replace than on v/calliper brakes.

i use an old kuota carbon something-or-other with a flat bar and it's ace. mudguards a must though, and some comfy puncture resistant tyres

Deffo mudguards, its amazing how great they are. Overshoes, another great item.

I ride with luggage on my back, but, thats me, I dont like panniers.

What facilities do you have at work? Can you take stuff in and leave it there?

argyle - Member

disc brakes are rubbish for commuting, pads pick up too much crud from the road and are pricier to replace than on v/calliper brakes.

Oh - something must be wrong with my bike then. Used for road use all year round for a couple of years on the same set of pads. I don't like wearing rims out and I do like reliable powerful brakes.

Having commuted on MTB and road bike, I know what I am talking about.
I much prefer road bike. Quicker, comfier, more hand positions. Would prefer disk breakes for wet performance, and as you are generally not breaking too hard or often do not wear out quick, and believe me Argyle, you get far more crud through the off road trails.

Personally am now on Single Speed and the very low maintenance is a huge advantage.

If doing it on MTB get thin tyres, I used Citijets. Lock out forks and enjoy. Not a great deal slower, but slower it is.

Im with TJ! I had to commute with a MTB for a couple of months and no problems. HOW do they pick up more crap than a V-Brake?

I do about 15m each way on a Cove Handjob with a spare set of wheels with 1" slicks on and it works well for me, I rarely commute in winter though. The tyres need to be puncture resistent or you can end up being late for work. There are some cheap brand tyres called Bronx on ebay which are very tough but they weigh a lot, I use conti gatorskins and they are very reliable..

Mudguards are a real bonus. If you don't need to carry much then a 10ltr backpack works well. I leave clothes at work and carry tools & lunch in the backpack. If I need to carry more (laptop, shirt & trousers) then I put a pannier on.

As someone else said a waterproof jacket is good but I use some ronhill pants which keep most of the water off. I changed to yellow jacket after nearly being hit a couple of times.

I am running a genesis IOID with rigid forks, hope discs, mary bars, mudguards and road biased wide tyres. Rarely more than 7 miles at a time tho. I like the comfort, the sit up and beg riding position, the great brakes and great grip.

My tip for one bike that needs to do it all.

DMR MOTO 2.25 tyres. very fast tread pattern and when pumped up to the max they have a very large and very round profile so they make your wheel feel bigger and they run on a very thin contact with the ground. I find them faster than normal 1.5” slicks.

Then at the weekend if its dry drop the pressure and they grip a lot more. If its wet then you need to change them but for 90% of my riding (commuting or dry trails) they have been brilliant.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3244

Kona dew plus here , 700c wheels, cable disc brakes, full mudguards and rack with panniers - sorted. Weighs a ton but I think of it as good training! Bike new was a tad over £300 in a sale.

Get another bike. You can get some second hand dog for £100-150 that will do the job and you won't worry to much about it getting nicked or riding it through winter.

By the time you have bought new tyres for the mtb you are almost half-way there.

The best bike for commuting is whatever you enjoy ridind the most.

I too commute on an mmmBop, in (almost) full off-road spec 🙂 - 14 mile (~20km) mildly hilly route, takes me ~45 minutes.

The only changes I make for commuting are Continental Travel Contact (folding) tyres and a 48T chainring to give me a higher top-end ratio.

Granted, it's not as fast as a road bike would be (having said that, there are guys on road bikes I pass on my commute 8) ).

I could probably get to work 3 minutes quicker on a more 'suitable' bike, but I love riding the mmmBop so I don't care.

An added bonus is that I can lock my bike in a very secure & covered private bike park whilst at work, so thievery is not a concern.

disc brakes are rubbish for commuting, pads pick up too much crud from the road

HOW do they pick up more crap than a V-Brake?

I assumed argyle was referring to the [i]type[/i] of crud : i.e. on-road it's more likely full of oils and other contaminants that can diminish the performance of disc brakes.

Never noticed it as a problem myself though.

I'd prefer flat bars and a more MTB position if it were busy urban streets mind.

So there we go, the whole spectrum covered in the first 5 posts.

I for one detest riding my MTB on the road. I took a 60 mile route home from work the other day, I'd not do that on my MTB. I guess it depends if it's a means to an end, or if you want to enjoy the riding.

For my money, if you're doing it on the road, a road bike is better. There's nothing really special about commuting, and I'd never otherwise consider a mountain bike a more appropriate tool if riding on the road.

However... as Molgrips said, if it's 100% urban I'd [i]possibly [/i]consider something a little more upright, probably not though. Road bike = faster = more fun. And discs are useless on the road IMO, if you're using a slick high pressure tyre the limit of grip is reached rather rapidly, discs just add weight and make pad replacement more costly.

i was referring to things like oil and crap getting on the pads, making them guff and making for costly replacements. how very dare I suggest something TJ posted was wrong.

each to their own like.

road bike = faster = more fun

And just for the record, the counter opinion: I disagree

A big part of the reason for my commute is 'fun'
I would have less of this on a road bike than my MTB

@molgrips

I'd prefer flat bars and a more MTB position if it were busy urban streets mind.

This is another reason I like commuting on my MTB.

Plus, the state of some of the road surfaces around here... I've ridden sections of trail-centre that are less pot-holed and rutted 😕

I run an 11/25 cassette and rigid carbon forks on the MTB I use more on the road than for XC. Still perfectly good for XC, rode it round the Rhayader trails last w/end but rigid forks and close ratio gears are better for regular road use. No preference to discs or Vs on the road here both have advantages and disadvantages...

Kev

argyle - Member

i was referring to things like oil and crap getting on the pads, making them guff and making for costly replacements. how very dare I suggest something TJ posted was wrong.

each to their own like.

Never happened to me - and the pads last ages. still thats only thousands of miles usage over years - how much road riding with a disc braked bike have you done?

My commuter (crappy phone pic):

[img] [/img]

Does everything I want it to do, on/off road etc. Disc brakes are great for commuting in Bradford where there would seem to be an above average number of, shall we say, short-sighted drivers 😕

It is I suppose, just a rigid 29er now I've really looked at it!

I got to agree with getting a cheap road bike. I have a 40mile both way commute and I would hate to do it one a mountain bike. You are much faster on a road bike and it takes less energy. It's maybe not much difference one day to you, but after a few weeks and you will notice this. I have found road tyres on a mountain bike to be slower than cross tyres on a cross bike.

I've also never felt any need for discs and don't really use the brakes that hard on the road, even through the city centre. If you're braking hard you really need to think about the way you are riding. Staying alive must be a priority over getting there quickly.

The other thing is nothing kills equipment like commuting. You also become very dependant on having a working bike. A spare bike becomes a must if you have no backup plan for getting there.

Ok, I wont tell you how you should do it, but this is my routine for commuting.

I cover a hilly 20 miles per day, 5 days a week, all year round. I now have several routes I can use, all on road, 90% offroad and a couple of different routes that are 50/50. I pick a route depending on how I feel, how late I am, weather conditions etc..

I use a Scott Scale with a crudcatcher rear and bender fender 2.0 on the front, Kenda SB8 at 40 psi all round, fast rolling enough on the road and ok off (I did run my fire XC pros in the deep snow though).

In the summer I only ever wear shorts and a ss cycling top, I tried waterproofs and hated them, instead of being drenched by the rain (quite refreshing and keeps your temperature down) you end up drenched with sweat (this is not refreshing in any way). In the winter I only wear shorts and a ls cycling top, when the temperature gets below 4 °C I'll wear a ss cycling top as well. When the temperature drops below 0 °C I wear my kyle straits(keeps my knees warm), motorcycle winter gloves, a neck/ear warmer and my endura over shoes. For me this works fine down to -15 °C, not once did I get cold through last winter, I do ride flat out, everywhere, all the time though.

I have a shower before I leave in the morning and have a wash when I get to work (no showers sadly), no problems regarding personal hygiene.

As far as wear and tear on the bike goes, as long as you clean the chain regularly and replace it before it begins to eat the cassette and rings, no problems.

I rode for around a year with discs on a commuter at 150 odd miles a week. Not masses granted but was almost at the point of new pads every month. Not for me, changed to road bike and is much better. As I said though, each to their own!

woody2000 - what bar ends are they? Sorry for hijacking!

argyle - 600 miles from a set of pads? Where where you riding? If it's so shitty, then I'd be more worried about the state of my rims than replacing brake pads!

I haven't changed the pads in mine for 2 years, but I don't always commute by bike.

cupra - cane creek ergos. Only bought them yesterday from this thread:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/race-face-stem-10-red-hope-qr-5-cane-creek-ergo-bar-ends-9-all-posted

Arrived this morning so I'll be testing them on my way home 🙂

Cheers!

I use an old Marin mtb but my commute is very short. For 20km, I'd be looking at something like an old touring bike - fit mudguards and a pannier rack and you're good to go. I keep full waterproofs in my pannier - if you get showered and changed at work I guess you could leave out the trousers.

Something like a Roadrat would work well too, plus discs are much better than rim brakes.

Agree on the pads, I do 100 miles per week minimum. Pads last about a year for fronts and I've not had to replace the rears yet, this also includes various offroad events throughout the year, trips to delamere, various trail centres etc

I dont have an issue with pad wear but my drive train does suffer.

If your on a budget of sub £1k for your bike which i am then i think it has to be 1 bike. You could get a £100 bike but that would be awfull to ride and a waste of money to maintain.

road bike, faster for me not as comfy but great if doing big miles.

MB, great for taking avoiding action if needed (i.e. jumping on the side after a car has not seen you or is hugging the side of the road) also if you have some off-road on the way i.e. parks etc.
Some of the roads I ride when commuting are a bit rough so again I find the MB easier on the old bones.

Really depends on what mood I'm in though.

Good base layer (woolpower or icebreaker both very good), light waterproof top that packs up really small, some overshoes.

I use a backpack but would like panniers (too expensive for me)

invest in some decent gloves for the winter (motorbike specific are usually the best, try HG Pathon, look funny but excellent [url= http://www.hein-gericke.co.uk/hein-gericke-pathan-evo-sheltexr-3-finger-handschuhe-schwarz.html ]pathon[/url]

a buff which is good for covering the face when cold and you are good to go 😀

In the same situation as you - will most likely be purchasing one of those cheap kona commuters soonish. Often my commute involves swapping on/off pavement to get around considerate drivers who deliberately try to block cyclists on narrow roads (despite stationary traffic)

It won't take long for a thieving scrot to spot you commuting on a mmmbop and where it is left whilst you work....I have a lovely blue one and they are hardly discrete.

And forget the c2w scheme, if you have it, cheaper to buy on closeout now

Also disagree with the moto tyres comment, I have them, and a pair of 1,3 conti sport contacts. The contis are a hell of a lot faster - I use a garmin 800 on all my rides and they are approx 10% faster on average than motos, and slightly more agai than nobblier tyres like nevegals. Motos perform a hell of alot better off road than slicks though 🙂

Watch out in winter. I found out hitting ice on 1.3 slicks means you hit the deck hard...

I commute on a CX these days, far better than my mountain bikes as it's considerably faster and easier. The carbon forks soak up the road quite well, so I'm glad I made the switch.

only have 7 miles each way but 5 days a week regardless of weather
old steel kona, rigid forks for me,schwalble marathon plus- puncture resistance is worth their slight weight increase- if it took discs id have em in an instant
run it 1x9 with a superstar chainguide and 44t chainring is plenty for my flat route in
for that distance my mtb is fine and some of the roads through london are pretty beat up and i go up and down kerbs a lot
front crud guard and decathlon rear -mounts on brake pivot bolts-guard for me
use a backpack ,have a waterproof relective cover for it,
only ever full waterproofs if its properly lashing down
showers at work are great if not shower before leaving and leave some wet wipes in work for freshening up the undercarriage and pits
a drying area for wet/ sweaty clothes is good
ss cycling t and shorts in summer
3/4 shorts and base layer + t in the winter
youll eat through drivetrains and also rims if your on vs
look at your control points 100miles a week will take its toll- spds with a small platform cb acid or new xt trail pedals take weight of balls of your feet a comfy saddle and grips also essential

most importantly dont let any other cyclists overtake you, ever, its a sign of weakness

I do 25 miles a day commuting. Currently use SS roadrat or giant OCR roadbike. Think you'd find roadbike quite a bit quicker - bigger wheels, lighter, no sus forks to squish robbing you of power. I use shorts and a merino or bamboo baselayer most of the time. Shell jacket if cooler, waterproof jkt if wet. Winter boots, winter gloves and tights when it's cold

My 2 cents worth:

I commute once or twice a week - 22 miles each way - mainly on quiet (but poor surfaced) lanes, a bit of main road and some cycle path. I love it - it's the best way to start and end the working day and really look forward to it. I started out with a Genesis Vapour CX bike which was great, but found the cantis to be pretty ineffective. I've recently swapped it for a Kinesis Tripster which I'm very pleased with. It's great as it's designed for the job - and does it very well. I like the carbon fork, discs, riding position (it feels like an ever so slightly stretched hardtail xc bike crossed with a road bike), full mudguards (SKS) and drop bars.

I have Crank Bros Candys on it so I can wear my mountain bike shoes (and boots in the winter) and not fall down the stairs at work. It has a 2x9 spd Tiagra drivetrain on it, so it's not mega bucks if I do drop it, and for when it wears out. The wheels are disc specific Halo rims and some cartridge bearing mtb hubs - cheap to maintain and fairly well sealed anyway.

SS top, gilet and armwarmers for most of the time with bib shorts. Merino LS top, gilet and tights when it's colder.

I swear by the Schwalbe Marathon tyres (available for 26" wheels too) - excellent puncture protection and fast rolling (80psi) as like someone said earlier - you can't be late for work. I use a clip on, seatpost mounted Topeak pannier rack as even though the bike's got bosses for a proper rack, I like the ease of just taking the whole lot off and having it at my desk. I carry a bit too much crap with me, but usually pack a waterproof top, multitool and a few bits, tube, pump, zip ties, levers etc (can't be late for work...) a small spare rear light, packed lunch, backup hard drive, phone etc. Could probably tour for a week on it... 😳 Also recommend the diddy Exposure lights and a FibreFlare at the rear that sits very nicely across the width of the panniers.

If you do nothing else, get some fast rolling puncture proof tyres for your Ragley and consider a seatpost mounted rack - I don't know if they come with bosses like On Ones do? I just prefer it to wearing a pack. A hi vis jersey, gilet or jacket and some decent lights and you'll be ready to roll.

HTH

Specialised Nimbus Armadillo types - slick tread pattern, roll well if pumped up hard, very robust and puncture proof.

I have some 26 SKS raceblades which are good and effective mudguards for a commuting mtb, but I can't find a link to where you can buy them.

Maybe get some rigid carbon forks and fit the same crown race as your main forks, then you can swap between the forks at the weekend. Likewise it is useful to have a spare wheelset with the slick tyres on for commuting.

Disk brakes will be useful for when a car pulls out on you, a door opens, or a pedestrian steps out in front of you.

[Remember to always lean into the pedestrian that steps out on you - stops you bouncing out into the road and under the next car that is coming along - and shares the pain 🙂 ]

You see some pretty nasty accidents in London where someone on a road bike with crap brakes is flying along at high speed and then something similar happens.

Why 20 km? is it just because it sounds more than 12 miles? 🙄

I'm not reading all the bit in the middle but will reply with my experience to your original post. Ultimately though I'd go with your gut.

My commuting bike gets as many miles in as any of my other bikes so a halfords special was out of the question. But I had a low budget because I am aware that some day it will get stolen because I leave it locked up in the city centre quite a lot.

It needs to be reliable and require minimal maintenance. Therefore singlespeed (hub gear would be another option, its what my financee uses).

Fast, I'd love to stop off at the skate park, jump the steps and take the scenic singletrack but 99% of the time I just want to get where I'm going and quickly. Slicks and a fast setup (narrow bars, low front end etc.)

I prefer a mountain bike as the roads are poor and I have to ride through the city centre. I find it makes me feel more in control than when I ride my road bike.

Mudguards rack etc. are a good idea for most of the year.

I bought a bike that meant I could swap bits with my others. So I kept the same wheel size, hub size etc. Proves useful as it means I can take bit in an emergency and old bits from my mountain bike keep my commuter bike running.

I run a rigid singlespeed on-one inbred.

You could get a £100 bike but that would be awfull to ride and a waste of money to maintain.

I've got a Holdsworth 10 speed tourer that cost £180 many years back when I was 15 or so, so probably way less than £100 of bike now.

Even that is nicer and quicker to ride on the road than a mountain bike.

I also have a decentish (probably be about £900 new with all the bits) road bike as my current commuter, and that is nicer to ride for sure. But mountain bike on the road is just nowhere near as nice as dirt cheap road bike.

Maintenance wise, cheap 10 speed bikes are cheap to maintain - bit of 3 in 1 oil on the chain every so often, change brake pads / tyres when needed, not much else to do really, perhaps a new rim / wheel once every few years, again, those are pretty cheap too for old bikes.

The whole upright position / wide bars for traffic thing I don't get really, same with 'needing' disc brakes. If you need to stop fast enough to need disc brakes, you're not riding carefully enough. If you need the slightly quicker handling that wide bars may give you, you're not riding carefully enough. You have a more upright position on the hoods of a road bike, but you have the added choice of a nice fast low position too. If you're not comfortable riding on the hoods, then move your bars up slightly until you are. Plus, if you are riding like a loon, surely narrow bars are better for times when you need to get through tight gaps in traffic?

I can see disc brakes are a bit handy for the whole low maintenance thing though.

Joe

Recommend single speed if route profile allowa. Much less risk of a mechanical on the way in. And no need to spend the weekend fixing the bike.
Commuting's great - massively increases your riding time and mileage. Enjoy 🙂

The whole upright position / wide bars for traffic thing I don't get really, same with 'needing' disc brakes. If you need to stop fast enough to need disc brakes, you're not riding carefully enough. If you need the slightly quicker handling that wide bars may give you, you're not riding carefully enough.

I'd rather not have to ride slowly and carefully to make up for the fact I was using lousy brakes!

Its nice to me able to stop faster than anything around you

my commute is now 18miles each way and includes a couple of sections of gravelfarm track, no way would i be doing it on an mtb. The way i look at it is road bikes can handle the L'Eroica so some smooth gravel won't be a problem. A road bike is more aerodynamic, which in my case with some very open roads is a godsend. it is also faster and means i can have proper tyres on the mtb without having to change them if i want to ride off road.

+1 TJ

you can never foresee or prevent everything that might cause you harm so improving your chances of avoiding that unexpected incident is a good thing.

in the same way that riding faster will always increase your chances of an accident no matter how skilled you are. it's about risk and mitigating it.

n the same way that riding faster will always increase your chances of an accident no matter how skilled you are. it's about risk and mitigating it.

What crap.

which bit and why? 😉

For on road commuting 700c tires and full mudguards are a must IMO. If there's a lot of urban stuff I like at least 28mm tires and V brakes too. If it's pretty much all urban I reckon there's no real difference between drops and flats (maybe with bar ends).

Something fitting that description would easily handle a bit of canal path/dirt road too. I've got a Cotic Roadrat drop that's doing the job for me quite nicely.

For clothing my main bit of advice is to look at a nice breathable windproof/softshell to wear 95% of the time and a waterproof to mostly live in your bag and come out the other 5%.

n the same way that riding faster will always increase your chances of an accident no matter how skilled you are.

that bit, what causes accidents is not speed, it might make the injuries worse, what causes accidents is stupidity. Ride defensively, position yourself, pay attention and above all do not do stupid things like undertake lorries.

I never said speed causes them, only that it can make specific ones more likely and therefore raises your overall chance of an accident particularly the ones where unexpected things happen and you have to react quickly. faster = less time to react = less likely to be able to avoid.

though no doubt some of the stw gods with their divine powers will not accept that the unexpected can happen regardless of how aware of your surroundings and situation you are 😉

never said speed causes them, only that it can make specific ones more likely

and

riding faster will always increase your chances of an accident

errr....

speed will make specific accidents worse, but having hit the deck fast and slow, there are times when fast is better. This includes crashing on ice, oil, mud, grass, etc.

And i am going to say that most crashes are down to stupidity and not speed.

for clarity I should maybe have written

never said speed causes ALL OF them, only that it can make specific ones more likely

hence increasing your overall chances of one which is what I said originally.

You might be twice as likely to have an accident if you cycle twice as fast, but you're only cycling half the time so its the same.

Started commuting on my Merlin Malt 1. Put slicks amd mudguards on it. It was OK but eventually got fed up of swapping tyres and taking rack/mudguards on and off so got a cheap second hand road bike and much prefer it.

Most of the people who use a mountain bike for commuting end up turning it into a proto road bike with slicks/mudguards and solid forks.

How can a mountain bike set up like that do what the OP's MMbop will do on the trails with 150mm forks and fat tyres?

only if all hazards are time dependent. Every time you ride past a junction there's a statistical chance of an accident from say a car pulling out. every fast corner there's a chance of oil on the road or a dramatic puncture.

every fast corner there's a chance of oil on the road or a dramatic puncture.

yes, now back in the real world, i would rather crash quickly on a wet road because of oil than crash slowly. speed means sliding rather than broken bones.

Most of the bad accidents I see ARE made worse because the cyclist was going at speed and didn't have time to react to the situation.

In addition it may be better to fall of at speed on a mtb but on the road why would it be better to fall off at speed? So you can slide further on the tarmac and maybe go under some approaching vehicle? So can fly further through the air over the connect of the car that pulled out on you?

Can't see any logic in that argument.

speed means sliding rather than broken bones.

sliding under/into some other obstacle on the road?

fine but you've still increased your overall chance of an accident even if maybe (debateable in all circumstances IMO) the impact in some instances is less.

in some instances riding slower you'd have stayed upright.

mrmo - thats just pish. Crashing at speed you have more energy to be dissipated when you crash - the vertical fall remains the same - the horizontal component greater

Of course riding faster makes crashing more likely. It takes a greater distance to react to incidents.

Clubber - its almost impossible to get folk to understand risk.

yes, now back in the real world, i would rather crash quickly on a wet road because of oil than crash slowly. speed means sliding rather than broken bones.

Glad we live in different worlds.

You are right it's the stopping quickly that hurts but sliding quickly on roads surrounded by walls, lampposts, buildings and populated with cars and lorries is not something I'd want to do.

I'm waiting for my apology mrmo 😉

Back to the OP.

Just to reiterate what some have already said. Schwalbe tyres seem ok for punctures and last a reasonable amount of time. I've just replaced a rear that had done about a thousand miles on and offroad. Mudguards are essential in winter I think, despite all their failings they do keep you a lot drier which is iomportant more for the return journey than anything ele. Putting on wet shoes and shorts isn't particularly pleasant.

As far as backpack goes I'd say find something that is comfortable for you but don't even bother messing about with waterproof bags. I've never found one that really was. Bag things up inside your backpack with carrier bags.

I'd only ever wear a waterproof for proper torrential rain on my commute and that's just to try and retain some heat. For winter I bought a security guards jacket off ebay but that really is for seriously nasty weather, it's so hot. You can see it a mile off though.

Lastly, visibility. The more day glo stuff you wear the better, people really do give you more room in the dark if they've seen you from half a mile away. As soon as I feel lights are needed I'll fit some very bright flashing LED's front and back plus a shoulder strap, plus arm bands and I have some stickers on my courier bag. (Which LED's to get is a whole other discussion)

HTH.

reflective tape all over the bike makes a huge difference to visibility

what apology, you said fast always causes accidents, something you have already backed down on, and i have said i would rather crash with a bit of speed than slowly. Over the years the worst injuries have always been slow, ie 10mph or less, least damaging at 20mph ish. skin heals quickly bones don't.

It is what stops you that matters, which is where stupidity comes in, pay attention, 9 times out of 10 you know what a driver is going to do, look where they are looking, pay attention to what is around you, slow down when you need more time, don't undertake cars and particularly lorries, look for where a vehicles blind spots are, try and stay away from narrow busy roads. be careful of bus routes because they will be coated in diesel from buses and taxis. I am not stupid enough to think that going fast is the best course of action, but rather that if you know that there is a risk do something about it. I know the sections of my commute that are likely to be risky and pay extra attention.

Then when the road is open and you have the sight lines click up through the gears and blast, it all comes down to the right tool for the job, and i think the name road bike might be a clue.

an accident, not ALL accidents. Always increase chance of an accident not always causes them. I only clarified the explanation to make it clearer, not to change the meaning.

if you don't understand the distinction there's not much point discussing further.

and on topic I'd always choose a road bike

I have a kona paddy waggon fixed with mudguards and rack.
For the OP, i'd buy a set of Scwalbe Marathon Plus in 559 and try it with whatever rucksck you already have. (I have yet to puncture them on the tandem or airnimal).

Then after two months, you will know what you need.

Road bike vs. mtb is moot for your distance, but i suspect that you will end up with a second bike eventually 😀

Hi mate I would get a good jacket, and ome sort of buff for your face throat. Riding in the winter like last year this year is very cold!! Get a hump for your pack it's high vis and water proof. You ll see peopl in yellow jacket with a black pack on!

Bike wise go slicks but if you can at all get a commuting bike you'll trash your main bike with the extra miles and road salt grit. Plus it will have to sit and fester in the day and night you dint want to be washing it every day.

It's hard work but the difference to your fitness is huge, just remember to mix the pace and route as much as you can to seethe benefits.

I do a hilly 9 mile ish each way commute most days on my hardtail. The only change I made was a cheap set of wheels and put some slicks on them, It makes it much easier and faster. I'm sure a dedicated road bike would be a bit better but I didn't think there was much point just for commuting.

I haven't noticed excessive pad wear and the discs and slicks combo is pretty good!

For carrying stuff I just use a rucksack as I can shower and change at work. I have never really bothered with mud guards either but I'm sure they would be useful on some of the lanes.

I think the main reasons I use my mtb is that I find it very comfy, I know how it handles and it has saved me a lot of cash over buying a new bike!

I ride a 15mile commute and depending on if i want to get to work fast or have a leisurely woodland pootle i use the road bike or mountain bike.

Can someone explain Mrmo's posts please cos it don't make a lot of sense to me fanks.

Well, for getting about in a busy congested area, I've found the perfect bike is a Hybrid. Larger wheels with narrow-ish tyres (700x38c) give a good compromise between speed and comfort, and also help slow you down quicker than very skinny slick tyres. You can also get tyres with a bit of tread on which helps on looser surfaces such as towpaths and that. The more upright position gives you better visibility of what's around you, and mtb bars give better control than drops. As for speed; here in London, you're not going to be doing more than 12mph or so average cos there's too many junctions, traffic lights etc so all those fastards on racers just end up sprinting between sets of lights and not actually going all that faster over a distance at all.

I've found singlespeed to be fine cos it's flat here more or less, and less stuff to go wrong is better. Drivetrains get filthy with all the crap on the roads, so not having to clean out derailleurs and cassettes is as bonus. I just wipe my chain down occasionally and then replace it when it's worn. No shifters and cables to get clogged up with muck either. 38:16t ratio is ideal for me; good balance as it's not too low and not so high pedalling when laden with shopping or when I'm tired or there's a hill is too much. Can get up Haverstock Hill ok without dying.

V-brakes work fine, set them up propply, use decent pads and look after them. Far better than road calipers.

Rack and mudguard mounts are very useful.

Oh, and if you're gonna lock it up, then tatty is best. Let the thieves target the shiny new bike next to it instead...

elfinsafety, i will try and explain from years of crashing, going slowly you hit the ground vertically hard. add a bit more horizontal speed into it and you slide a bit more, so you can scrub the energy off better. It hurts granted. There is also details, a bit of speed allows you to "float" the bike across rough roads and potholes better than going slowly and crashing through which cuts down on punctures and breakages.

What you need to do is pay attention to your surroundings and take control, i have to say most crashes i have seen over the years where other vehicles are involved are due to stupidity not speed, be it fast or slow. I have seen cyclists jump lights and get hit, i have seen cyclists get caught by railings trying to undertake buses and lorries. I have known people hit lamp-posts by not paying attention to the pedestrians in the area. Other cases have been cyclists hiding in the gutter which allows drivers to force their way past and then be surprised when they turn across them.

Infact thinking about it the faster you go there will be less chance of a car trying some of the more stupid overtaking manoeuvres. there are roads that if i do at 10mph i will be overtaken if i do 25 then cars give more space, ie safer.

Speed has never been a factor it has been awareness of the surroundings.

mrmo - increasing speed increase your chance of accidents as reacting to things takes more distance. Crashing at higher speeds means more energy to got rid of = more likelihood of injury.

the vertical component is the same, the horizontal greater.

TJ, more speed does not mean more chance of accidents, more speed means you hold up traffic less which means less stupid overtaking from cars. Gain some loose some.

And yes the vertical component of the impact is the same but the horizontal component allows you to loose the energy over a greater area.

Taking it to a stupid level, gliders don't crash even though they are "falling" from thousands of feet. It is about how you loose the energy.

As someone who has some awareness of motorbikes i would have thought you would be aware that crashing at 100mph is perfectly survivable as long as you don't hit a wall in the process. So to say that speed is going to increase the injury isn't actually true, what matters is what you do as you go down. Put your arm out break your collar bone, roll and you'll loose some skin but be ok.