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Cheap v comfy combo in 31.6 flavour if possible?
Just don't put as much air in the tires.
What's cheap?
Like my Syntace P6 hi-flex....
Noticeable improvement in comparison to bomb-proof Thomson
The Canyon split one gets a lot of good feedback. 120 quid, about what I'd expect to pay. Though at some point on a road bike you just need to MTFU 🙂
Mtfu? And take a stiff hard pounding up the ass? Err I'd prefer not.. 😉
Are you already on 25mm tyres? (assuming they'd fit yr frame)
If not, try a nice supple set of them first. I like Michelin Pro 4 service course. And run them about 80psi.
Will be cheaper and offer more advantages than just comfort.
If you're determined to get a cheap carbon post, I believe everyone's favourite octoporn merchant will be releasing a new range of roadie stuff this autumn.
Ive only just found 23c tyres that I like so dont want to change.
Syntace P6 hiflex - not cheap but very good indeed.
I've got:
25mm tyres
Canyon VCLS post (the 1.0 version, not the new 'double' one)
Selle Italia Gell Flow saddle.
By far and away, by an absolute country mile the biggest improvement was the saddle.
The tyres were subtle but noticeable, the seatpost felt like letting another 10psi out of the tyre, the saddle is like the difference between riding a FS bike and a hardtail up a fireroad. It's actually more comfortable than my commuter with 2.0 tyres at 40psi and a harder saddle.
It was also the cheapest (got it 2nd hand).
You tried putting a saddle on the seatpost?
The Specialized Cobble Gobbler and a shim?
You'll probably get a comfier post in 27.2 anyway.
You'll probably get a comfier post in 27.2 anyway.
Yep. You definitely need a new frame with a 27.2 seat tube.
I would look at titanium posts for comfort - and maybe a 27.2 post in a shim?
Or just find some nicer roads to ride 🙂 Most of my regular routes tend to avoid roads with poor surfaces. Seriously though, it's a stiff race bike with skinny tyres and high pressure, how much comfort are you expecting?
Will look at the ti/27.2 route. With all due respect why the **** would you pay £120+ for a non-dropper seatpost? Madness. Made for peanuts sold for ££.
Hang on Hora, who started this thread?
I'm confused. Are you questioning your own idiocy?
I asked for cheap I didn't ask for premium. Wheres the idiocy in my OP?
Step away from your warrior keyboard..
Meant in jest Hora, no offence intended. I just found it funny you appear to be reacting angrily to your own thread.
But £120 is mid-range for carbon road posts. Premium is north of £200.
Here's an idea though, see if you can borrow a carbon post and see if it does what you hope or not?
Ti seatposts are not going to meet the "cheap" criterion
[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultra-Light-Titanium-Ti-Titanium-Seat-Post-With-Titanium-Bolts-27-2mm-31-6mm-/251617074236?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item3a958bdc3c ]£50, not a horrendous weight, available in 27.2 or 31.6[/url]
Cheap & Carbon don't tend to mix very well.
I had an Easton post bust on me, damn if I wasn't lucky enough to miis the break mid ride and stop my arse being impailed..
Bloody cheap crap.
I asked for cheap I didn't ask for premium. Wheres the idiocy in my OP?
What's cheap for you? I'd say anything under a 100 quid is cheap. Some would disagree.
Hmm only post I've ever had break on me was a carbon Easton one too.
With all due respect why the **** would you pay £120+ for a non-dropper seatpost?
The last post I brought for an mtb was 160 quid carbon non-dropper 🙂
£50, not a horrendous weight, available in 27.2 or 31.6
Oh hello! Ta. Shimwise best to fit a plastic or steel into the carbon frame?
that's very reasonable for a Ti seatpost - I stand corrected. Still puzzled by the idea of changing seatpost instead of saddle and insistence on 23c tyres, mind.
The issue is I changed the tyres from stock to highly recommended Conti's GrandPrix GT- I had multiple punctures and the tyres were 😯 on the bead to take off/on. So I bought some really cheap conti sports (9quid each!) and they've proved to me amazing- grip, no punctures etc so I'm hesitant to remove them incase it removes their magical puncture-resistance from my bike!
I'll have a look to see if I can find the same in 25c as cheap. TBH I'd rather do the post AND tyres. The current 31.6 post that came Planet-X branded is very sturdy.
The current 31.6 post that came Planet-X branded is very sturdy.
Hmm, probably made of high quality Pig Iron.
hora - Member
Ive only just found 23c tyres that I like
Well get the 25c version then
Oh hello! Ta. Shimwise best to fit a plastic or steel into the carbon frame?
I like USE plastic shims, they're a good length.
I had multiple punctures
And take a stiff hard pounding up the ass?
Are you actually riding this bike on proper tarmac roads?
is the Conti Grand Prix GT a race tyre? I've the GP 4 season tyres (in 25c) and they're excellent. A bitch to fit but lots of grip and no punctures in >2000 miles
EDIT: I've probably cursed myself now
Hang on doesn't Hora have an aversion to padded lycra? That would help just a bit. And a decent saddle has has been mentioned.
And do more miles, your ass hasn't mtfu yet (feels quite wrong typing that)
probably made of high quality Pig Iron.
It looks VERY well built so I imagine its the sturdiest version of iron..
Those tyres- you wouldn't believe it. Same roads as now and a puncture in each tyre on one ride, the next two on the front. I checked the carcass/rim etc. I even folded inside out and ran the bloody thing against my cheek. On one puncture I was near Evans so as it was only £5 to fit I took them up on it. The bloke came out sweating and picked up a new tube (he'd punctured that with levers). Eventually he came out and said 'wow, I can see what you mean'. 😆
With all due respect why the **** would you pay £120+ for a non-dropper seatpost? Madness.
Because it does what I wanted (be comfy) and I don't need a dropper on my road bike.
Flip it arround the other way, why would I pay £200 for a dropper on my MTB when it's not even comfortable (being made from a fairly silid lump of aluminium).
Agree on the newer cheaper continental 'sport' tyres, seem just as good as the "made in germany" premium versions, for a third of the price.
I put a Specialized Pave carbon post on my Mmmbop for commuting many years ago - made it very comfortable and not broken on me in all that time. And I have a tendency to break all my seatposts.
A [url= http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/seat-post-seat-pin/product/review-cane-creek-thudbuster-st-32163/ ]review[/url].
I'm rolling about on a £12.17 (27.2) Carbon post from that there China (via fleabay), Definitely Cheap, finish was all right, obviously not the lightest available, seems comfy with a Selle Italia XO on top (also cheap), most importantly though it seems to suit my arse, longest period of use thus far was a 63 mile ride on Sunday and it was was nice and comfy throughout. but it's early days, It will most probably snap and stab me in the arse cheek at some point, But if you want properly cheap it can be had...
I think a lot of it comes down to what Shorts/pad you use as well though too... Tyres can help quite a bit
Thinking about it further it's a bit of a Heirachy innit:
-Tyres: Volume and pressure
-Frame: Materials and configuration, (Vibration Damping Vs Stiffness)
-Seatpost: material and configuration (As Above really)
-Seat: Rail materials, shape, padding
-Shorts: Padding, layers/shape
The last two are arguably the most important as if a seat/pad isn't quite right could negate all the benefits from the rest of it...
Not sure I'd expect a change of seat post alone to fix things...
Tyres: Volume and pressure
Tyre and tube material and construction has a lot to do with it too. A nice soft tyre (like a Vittoria open tubular) and a latex tube for example, feels a lot nicer to ride on than a hard winter tyre with a heavy butyl tube (and IME not significantly more prone to punctures either, I think they just deform more over objects that would otherwise puncture a harder combination.)
Not sure I'd expect a change of seat post alone to fix things...
I'm not even sure what the OP is trying to fix. He's not riding a tourer, he's riding a race bike, I think he just needs to avoid shitty roads and mtfu a bit. (probably could do with a 😉 there)
At 80psi it feels markedly comfy (when you leave the bike for two days then swing a leg over) Then again I don't want the downside of the punctures/pinch.
MTFU? 😀
Yeah, of course, keep your arse in a state of pain just to impress people on a forum 😉
I bought a carbon post from Burgtec thinking it would make the road bike more comfortable but it didnt, it seemed to transmit even more road buzz to my posterior.
In the end i went to 25c tyres (instead of the 23c i had been on) and bought an Alu post that splits about 3 inches from the top, this split seems to provide a barely visible but certainly noticeable amount of give and takes the edge of the harshness....did away with padded shorts too, i can happily ride for hours in comfort now.
Carbon isn't nececeraly less stiff than aluminium, it can be, but it's main advantages are better damping, so you can design it to bend a lot more without it springing back and causing more problems. Look a the tips of windsurfer masts (or modern dinghies) and how it interacts with the sail, it initialy bends away a lot, then comes back bringing the power with it, which is why carbon masts are such an advantage in gusty conditions. The aluminium masts just bend then spring back with no damping so the power's very on/off.I bought a carbon post from Burgtec thinking it would make the road bike more comfortable but it didnt, it seemed to transmit even more road buzz to my posterior.
That's why Ti posts aren't popular, if they're made soft enough to deform over bumps they spring back with all that stored energy and on compact frames an feel like riding a 90's FS bike bobbing. Carbon composites (and in particular the canyon and similar materials with bassalt fibers) have a lot of damping so the post bends, then dissipates that energy rather than returning it.
I know two of you had issues with Easton carbon but maybe(?) that was the older types? I love my Easton Havoc carbon bars- crashed loads on it.
how about the latest Easton EC90?
Looks a good price? (and you can get USE 30.9-31.6 shims.
Can I just urge a note of caution.
A carbon/steel/Ti/Alu/whatever seatpost will have an effect to how your bike feels but unless it's one that's designed to really move significantly (eg the dogleg Spesh one or a thudbuster) then it's only going to be a small difference unless you're coming from a particularly rigid post (which your pig iron one may be).
A carbon seatpost with sufficient exposed length to allow a degree of forward/backward movement may well help but then the same is true of a long aluminium post with relatively thin walls and non OS diameter.
From memory, Roadie Hora(!) your road bike doesn't have loads of exposed seatpost which means that any change based on material alone isn't going to be that significant though no doubt you may convince yourself otherwise 🙂
FWIW, if you really can't get used to it (because new roadies often complain about how bumpy it is until they get used to it), fatter tyres and lower pressures would likely be a much better solution. Or failing that try different saddles - some have more, effective padding than others.
Ah- currently have 165mm showing of seatpost.
(The post itself is 400mm long)
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/SPPXSL3DFA/planet-x-light-alloy-seatpost
I found the perfect saddle for me (forget its there interms of comfort)- its a 155mm Specialized Phenom - although at only two weeks old its fraying/ripping 😯 but I'm speaking to the LBS about that.
hora - Member
I know two of you had issues with Easton carbon but maybe(?) that was the older types? I love my Easton Havoc carbon bars- crashed loads on it.
You have a point there, my Easton post (which broke) was on a bike about 6 years ago. I'll give you that.
I use 3T now, have done for some time, current 27.5mm if that helps you.
I would drop down to a smaller Dia and shim it. You won't eliminate the thuds, you may dampen down the buzz a lot though.
Next thing is, use your legs for damping. Stupid thing to say because I should expect you are doing this already. But, but look at the road surface you are on, scout for hard bumps and potholes etc. then anticipate the "thud" by taking the weight on your legs and off yer arse, then relax once passed and hack on again.. annnnnd repeat.
Sort of(?)- I 'hover' over the saddle and also tend to raise the front wheel too if I know I can't skip round due to cars behind.
Will look at the ti/27.2 route. With all due respect why the **** would you pay £120+ for a non-dropper seatpost? Madness. Made for peanuts sold for ££.
See this test. I hope you find a Ritchy WCS Carbon Straight at a bargain price.
Isn't the Phenom an mtb saddle? Not that it matters I suppose if it works for you. I don't think it's the most padded saddle either.
So how long until the "Comfy cheap road saddle?" thread?
Its a more padded version of the Toupe. Yes meant for XC MTB but it means its also more padded (comfy) but not full on MTB levels of padding. I really like it. Its also correctly spaced for my sitbones and has ti rails.
I found the perfect saddle for me (forget its there interms of comfort)- its a 155mm Specialized Phenom - although at only two weeks old its fraying/ripping but I'm speaking to the LBS about that.
There's definately a gel version of the phenom, if not already try that.
I find Phenom's great (on road or mtb - they are supposedly an mtb saddle though) but they're not particularly well padded. FWIW, I find it find on mtbs too but them I don't mind fairly hard saddles.
@adsh, appears to be a good test worth reading but results work other way round, FSA K-force comes out best and WCS does not.
wrt saddles, more padding defo does not necessarily mean more comfort.
@adsh, appears to be a good test worth reading but results work other way round, FSA K-force comes out best and WCS does not.
I refer you to the OPs response to my giving him the benefit of my experience:-
With all due respect why the **** would you pay £120+ for a non-dropper seatpost? Madness.
I continue to wish him the WCS.
Gotcha 🙂
£120 is a serious amount of ££. I'd pay £70 but its a step too far.
I guess I'm not the sort of person who'd buy £500+ wheels either though 😀
I'd agree if I was recomending him the 200mm wide behemoths that grace the bikes at the gym, but IMO the trade off between a standard and a gel version of the same model is looks and weight (even the selle italia gel models aren't exactly sleek looking and lightweight). And it's not foam padding, its usualy polyurethane or similar, so it absorbs the weight/impacts and rebounds slowly, rather than bouncing (or not deforming enough like a stiff foam would).I've got a question here- those customers are 100% off scot-free and none of the debts have been sold on?
TINAS, have you been on that wonga thread by any chance?
TINAS, have you been on that wonga thread by any chance?
Yes, but the padding from those puppets isn't going be very comfy (I have no idea what point you're making)
May want to review your previous post 🙂
Fair point!!! Meant to quote this.
wrt saddles, more padding defo does not necessarily mean more comfort.



