Clutch mech not wor...
 

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[Closed] Clutch mech not working as well as I hoped - any ideas?

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I had 2x9 with a Blackspire Stinger and loved the setup but wanted to change to Shimano from SRAM so went 10sp at the same time.
I have an XT mech/cassette/shifters and now 2x10 with 22/38 front ring with a Hope bashguard. Chain makes a lot of noise and slaps around a bit and it came off during a favourite downhill that was reasonably rocky but no where near the rockiest round here (WYorks).
Anyone else had the same result? Mech appears to be working ok as far as I can see.
I assume if I refit the Stinger it would still be ok to run the mech in clutch mode - is that right?


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 8:03 pm
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No problem, are you sure your chain is the right length?


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 8:10 pm
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Yes, I have a Specialized Pitch and I tested the length at full travel on the two largest cogs and it was stretched as far as I thought it could be. Wouldn't want to shorten chain any further.


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 8:26 pm
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Is it switched on?


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 8:29 pm
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Yes.


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 8:34 pm
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Does switching it on make any difference to how easily the cage moves whilst on the stand?

You can adjust the clutch on most models I think.


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 9:02 pm
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You can open up the rear mech body and increase the clutch strength by screwing in a little nut. Worked for me. When you open it you'll also find out whether the clutch mechanism has broken, they do go occasionally and are covered under warranty I think.


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 9:02 pm
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Have yet to drop the chain on my Zee mech and the chain is quiet, I would double check the clutch part.


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 10:57 pm
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I rode my spare bike with a normal mech today, for the first time in ages; by christ it was clattery, it was driving me mental! It's amazing what you get used to...


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 11:22 pm
 zedz
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I am no expert here but I thought Shimano recommend a 12 tooth gap between chainrings? I read that somewhere... (you could always google it if you can be arsed).

A smaller gap would mean a tighter chain, relatively that is, ie less difference between max stretch on the largest cogs and max 'looseness' on the smallest cogs would mean less flapping about on the smaller ends?

Just a thought?


 
Posted : 01/08/2014 11:48 pm
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You are stretching the boundaries using a 22/38 ring combo.

If you are riding hard you may still need a guide.


 
Posted : 02/08/2014 8:30 am
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Didn't realise there was an issue with chainring sizes. I want to go to a 40t as well!!!

Might try adjusting it a bit. Don't think I can shorten the chain any more.


 
Posted : 02/08/2014 10:03 am
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Are you using a long cage mech?

What size cassette?


 
Posted : 02/08/2014 10:31 am

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