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Hi folks. If, when replacing a spoke i cant get the exact same length, should i go longer or shorter?
E.G i need a 272.5 but my choice is 272 or 274..
As close as you can, I've gotten away with splitting the difference between disk side and non disk side, especially if you can source longer nipples. Be aware that if you go too long they will poke the rim tape and give you punctures, so for your case i would go half a mm too short rather than 3mm too long. (you won't need longer nips for a half mm difference )
Shorter, definitely.
Too long and you could also bottom out the threads in the nipple and not be able to tension it properly.
Longer. Definitely.
If they protrude enough to damage the rim tape you can just grind a fraction off the end with a dremmel and if necessary you can easily cut a bit more thread on to the spoke.
If they are too short then the thread won't be fully engaged in the head of the nipple and the nipples will snap.
if necessary you can easily cut a bit more thread on to the spoke.
Because everyone has a spoke rolling machine in their garage, right?
It's 0.5mm shorter. That's 1 turn of the nipple.
Shorter for this case.
Not a huge difference either way. If you're buying a few, whichever is nearest to be a spare for another spoke in that wheelset. Maybe 2-3mm difference driveside to non-driveside?
In either a modern twin well clincher or a tubular rim I've yet to see +1.5mm be critical and/or poke through a rim tape. YMMV
Not helpful but I was unaware that you could get spokes in half millimeter increments
Not helpful but I was unaware that you could get spokes in half millimeter increments
You can't. I think the question arises from a spoke calculator suggesting a length of 272.5 is required but the choices for sale are 272 or 274.
In that case I would just go 272. If it was 273.5 I would go 274. Straightforward enough.
Not helpful but I was unaware that you could get spokes in half millimeter increments
To be fair I've built maybe 500 wheels and when I open the box of spokes I reckon the tolerance is around +/- at least a mm anyway. Get a bunch of spokes that are sold as 272mm and put them end on to a flat surface. The difference is significant. I'm sure if you bought 100 spokes you'd find enough at 272.5 to build your wheel.
Not helpful but I was unaware that you could get spokes in half millimeter increments
https://www.bikebug.com/wheels/wheel-parts/spokes-and-nipples?pgnum=12
They seem to be a Fulcrum/Campag thing
Spoke length isn’t as critical as some like to think - most of the load is taken by the first 3 turns of the thread, the rest gives something for the wheel builder to occupy their time 😉 Slightly protruding from the nipples (ooh-err) aren’t really as issue with deep rims (unlike shallow rims of 30 years ago) Likewise, as long as the spoke extends beyond the shoulder on the nipple. It’s more the aesthetics to have the thread start as it enters the nipple and for the spoke to be flush with the top - more important are that they are evenly tensioned. Also a machine rolled thread is far stronger than a hand cut one. If your really fussy over length, Sapim and DT both sell in 2mm increments but one is odd and the other even
Spoke length isn’t as critical as some like to think
Ssshhh don’t give the mystique away 🙂
Not helpful but I was unaware that you could get spokes in half millimeter increments
You can’t.
You can if you buy from a spoke supplier or wheel builder with a spoke cutter.
It is not critical within reason and I have built using the closest 2mm but I would use a spoke that was say 10mm longer than required...
^^^
What kerley said.
So long as there is sufficient engagement in the threads (both ends if that makes sense) and they're not poking the rim tape, then they should be fine. It is quite difficult to tell if the threads have gone all the way through the nipple, though.
I've used ones that I would guess are at least 5-8mm too long with no ill effects.