[Closed] Chain wear

Which wear guide was it? Some include the clearance between the roller and the pin as part of the measurement as they push them away. Therefore, they tend to over read. When mine says 0.5%, I then get a little more serious. I have a newer park tool one which presses in and ensures it takes that roller clearance out. My favourite though is my marked out 600mm steel rule so I can measure as many links as possible.

Or, buy a new chain. If it slips, put it to one side and put the old one back on until it's all dead.

Mine is the

0.75 probably means cassette won't take a new chain without slippin

I chuck chains at 0.75 but the cassette will take a few chains, so it depends on how many chains the cassette has had. In my experience, they'll take 3 but it depends to some extent on how you use your gears (and the cassette in question).

9x3 I used to run drive trains into the ground and then just replace the lot, this was when a decent Shimano/sram cassette was £30 on eBay.

These days I have a AliExpress 99p chain checker to help avoid spending silly money on replacing full drive for the cost of a chain.

New GRX group on the gravel bike as my first experience of a modern sram drive train was SHYTE and got rid as soon as funds permitted.
However, From experience a Sram PG1130 Cassette is my go to as it just outlasts it’s cost, you obvs need a compatible free hub.

Usually change it at .75, no problems.

I've ordered a new chain, so will see how it does on the cassette....

Will probably be fine, I certainly got away with it for a few years before I realised it was supposed to be 0.5 with 11sp.

If your chain wears very quickly all of a sudden you can sometimes catch the cassette before it has worn too. I have just had a new (8 weeks) chain wear to beyond .75%. I changed it and the new one worked ok with the cassette. had it not I would have put the old one back on and worn the lot into the ground.

I sometimes find that on my commuting/touring bike that has a Rohloff, the chains wear quicker than the sprockets. You can then end up with a really baggy chain that is awful to ride. I keep a stock of part worn chains to find one that runs smoothly on the part worn Rohloff.

The whole chain wear thing is a pain though as they seem to wear more quickly now than they used to.

This is interesting, not just for ebikes...

Just changed my 12 speed at 0.75 (600 miles). First new chain on this cassette. No visible wear on cassette and no slipping.

Having to chain every 600 miles or so is what I can't get my head around. That means that I'd be buying 10+ to chains a year on a typical year. I may be wrong but I'm sure I used to get 1500 miles from a chain before the cassette wouldn't accept it and more like 4000 miles on commuting roads before the whole thing got all rough.

The whole chain wear thing is a pain though as they seem to wear more quickly now than they used to.

Yeah. I was doing some work on my daughter's 9 speed bike at the weekend and was struck by how wide the chain was compared the 11 speed I've got used to. Same force going through less metal - not surprising it wears quicker.

I suspect that 1x meaning spending more time at bigger chain angles doesn't help either.

I had a 9sp chain fail last weekend, four links broke at once, appears that the links had worn on the inside face. Chain wear was below 0.75 but was totally wreaked.

That CC2 tool is crap, it doesn't account for roller tolerances and the small bolt the black gauge is held on by has no tolerance. Had them in the LBS I used to work in and no two seemed to give the same result, some would even measure a new chain as 0.75. It may be more faff but using the Sheldon Brown steel ruler method is the best, easily get 10-20% more mileage out of my chains compared to what a cheap gauge says* and usually get 4 chains to a cassette too.

* got a cheap FatSpanner one for quick checks, when that says 0.75 I use the ruler method until it's time to change. Usually get another 100 miles out of each chain.

I use a steel ruler. Cheap and accurate.