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2 year old AXS mech on my trek slash causing terrible slapping on rough stuff and drops.
Any thoughts on how to dampen this
its a stock chainstay protector (quite a hard plastic material) so maybe changing this might help as the I'm not quite ready to ditch the very expensive draivetrain though fully admit the clutch is rubbish on the AXS and only going to get worse...
Maybe VHS tape ?
STFU damping system ?
cheers
fully admit the clutch is rubbish on the AXS
It seems to be more down to the mech rotating on the B-bolt more because it is not steadied by the cable.
People have added a rubber washer between the bolt and the mech to add a bit more rotation resistance. Keep meaning to try it on mine but haven't got around to it yet.
From what I have seen, most of the chain slap is not the clutch, but the whole mech swivelling as there is no cable to maintain some tension.
There are some solutions to add some friction to the mounting bolt to reduce this movement, and the new transmission mech seems to change the position of the battery and how the mech sits to reduce this occurring.
Walleater put something on his Instagram feed about this. A little washer or something twixt mech and frame. He'll be along soon when they wake up in Squamish.
I've done the modification. Made a huge difference.
I’ve done the modification. Made a huge difference.
can you share what you did and the parts you used?
Yes it does sound like the whole mech hitting the frame more than chainslap when I think about it!
Have to be honest, I've had nothing from my bike since I moved to AXS 2.5 years ago...chainslap just doesn't exist (and if you see how 'smooth' I ride over terrain you'd know it should be very noisy) - I'm not on a Trek though, so might be something with how the mech is fitted to the frame?
Brilliant - such a simple solution - going to try this out
@Stumpy120 - how is the B-bolt held in on the AXS mechs? Is it still a split ring / circlip - the bolt kits don't seem to show one, unlike the non-AXS kits.
Though Ive not actually looked at mine yet!
It's just held in by an o-ring. It just pushes out
Great
I wanted to do this on my 11 speed XT mech, but couldn't get the bolt out. What tool to remove theclip please?
As per vid above.
Doesn't it kind of feel like playing catch up ?. Always trying to devise some new 'dodge' or adaption,to overcome problem caused by something new.
They come out with X,Y,Z purporting to make something better, but in use it develops a different problem, which someone now has to solve.
Just watched the video, looks a simple hack but couple of questions:
- I take my rear wheel out after every ride to transport and store my bike, would I need to undo the mech every time to be able to do this?
- Does anyone have a lazy link to a suitable spacer to give it a go?
Thanks
That link by @freeridenick is interesting as it looks like a revised version with a separate serrated washer.
I wonder if:
a) it resolves the issue
b) fits the GX AXS mech if it does
c) if not, whether you could add more friction by using an oversized o-ring that looks like it sits behind the serrated washer
Doesn’t it kind of feel like playing catch up ?. Always trying to devise some new ‘dodge’ or adaption,to overcome problem caused by something new.
They come out with X,Y,Z purporting to make something better, but in use it develops a different problem, which someone now has to solve.
Typical of most SRAM products. Quick to market but then customers do the product testing for them. I notice on the new version they are selling delayed shifting as a feature because the system can’t shift under full load except at predetermined points in the cassette
Dragging this back up while on the hunt for a solution to snap the noise from my gx axs mech.csn anyone confirm if the x01 bolt kit in the link below prevents any forward rotation of the mech body https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-rear-derailleur-screw-bolt-kit-for-x01-eagle-axs/137146285/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=8579907&country=uk&gclid=CjwKCAjwjMiiBhA4EiwAZe6jQ1bdEuj7n7sfi4wz1q4tyJO-bI6rjgMJAny2gZH_LZqvr1tVJ2J7HhoC7IMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have the same issue with GX AXS but have yet to get around to trying this “o ring” solution
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/3-13-solution-for-sram-eagle-axs-derailleur-noise.1214185/
I did the O-ring hack described in the MTBR thread above and it has greatly improved things. I bought a box of cheap silicone o-rings and stuck one the outermost bit of the bolt - just make sure to use one several sizes smaller than you think otherwise it will bulge when tightened down.
– I take my rear wheel out after every ride to transport and store my bike, would I need to undo the mech every time to be able to do this?
– Does anyone have a lazy link to a suitable spacer to give it a go?
Seeing as this has been resurrected anyone got any answers to my earlier questions please?
Frogstomp - this sort of set? O-Rings
@razorrazoo - I went for silicone rather than rubber thinking they might resist perishing better. Also, red is obviously faster!
You can still rotate the rear mech to remove the wheel - it's just a bit stiffer. Doing it frequently might reduce the effectiveness of the o-ring I guess though?
Does anyone know if T-type is better for this?
Kramer - yes T Type is much improved apparently.