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Just fitted a oneup 42t extender, radr cage and narrow wide chainring. Fully compressed the shock, chain round the 42t and the chainring to get the length plus two links.
Had to leave one more link on than required to be able to to break the chain on a 'male' link. Put it all together but when on the 11t and with the shock pressurised the chain was slack. Took another couple of links out which has left the chain length when on big/big one link short of the recommended 'plus two links'.
When the shock is fully compressed on big/big there is still plenty of give in the mech for the cage to swing round. Presume this should be ok?
Thanks.
Hi, what mech are you running? Assuming chain length is right....I had a similar issues with my zee mech, had to adjust out the little bit of slack with b adjust screw. Too much though and shifting slows down a bit. Took a bit of patience to get it right. This was just using 11-36 cassette too. Heard one up needs a longer b adjust screw....
How tight did you pull the chain / mech when on the big rings and at full compression?
Did you let the air out of the shock?
EDIT: B screw is for adjusting the shifting, not the chain tension.
Yes, I let all of the air out of the shock with a small cargo strap in place to keep the shock compressed. The chain was pulled as tight as it would go with an allen key through each end of the chain.
Mech is an XTR 986. B screw is plenty long enough.
I would of ran it through the rear mech too, I'm not a fan of the +2 method.
Also it means 2 full links, ie inner and outer.
Is it on your Spitfire?
I've always used the 'two pin' method as shown here
If it would have been two inner and two outer links the chain would have been too short for me.
@cheifgrooveguru yes it's on my Spitty.
and the chainring to get the length plus two links.
Don't worry about all that guff, trying to work it out and such.
With a single ring, put it round the big ring and the biggest sprocket and through the mech as if using it, and cut the chain to keep the mech at the 4/5 o'clock position, 45 degrees from vertical.
With more then one chainring, do the same but go small/small and leave the chain as long as possible without the mech rubbing back on itself, cage around horizontal.
Then check in big/big and it should be around that 45 degrees off vertical position again
I'm pleased I bumped into this thread! Me & my lad have been fitting 1 X 10 to his Stumpy FS & It's got me confused, we've fitted a Zee crank but with a 34 Hope narrow wide ring & a Zee clutch mech with an XT 36 tooth cassette.
Now I dunno what to do about shortening the chain cos he might need to fit a 40T ring on the back. I took 4 links out of the chain (a KMC gold one) but It's flapping about on the small ring.
What's the procedure? Is it still a case of 'round the front ring & the big one at the back, miss the mech & add 2 links?
I wouldn't worry, if you're bottoming the shock out in the 42t ring you're doing it wrong.
You'll be fine then - the Spitfire (and I think all the KS-link bikes) have greatest chain growth at full travel (bottom-out), and you're not going to reach full travel in your lowest gear, even doing trials style wheelie drops.
Not all bikes are at maximum chain growth at full travel - in fact many aren't! I see the new Transition bikes are max chain growth at the sag point, so will need enough spare chain to not only reach around big and big with full chain growth but also enough slack to change gears.
And there was me thinking 1 X 10 was supposed to be simple!
I've got 3 X 10 on mine & I'm sticking to it, far easier to set up! 🙂
And there was me thinking 1 X 10 was supposed to be simple!
It is - as long as you have enough mech capacity to handle the gear range and the chain growth. For instance, a super short cage mech like a Zee will struggle with an 11-36 cassette plus significant chain growth but can handle a smaller DH cassette and lots of chain growth or a big cassette on a hardtail. A medium cage is fine though.
With a triple you always have a big mech - and more chain flapping about trying to fall off!
I was assuming you had threaded the chain through the mech, as PeterPoddy says.
The round the largest front and round the largest rear +2 (no mech) is a rough guide when using double or triple front rings.
With a single ring, put it round the big ring and the biggest sprocket and through the mech as if using it, and cut the chain to keep the mech at the 4/5 o'clock position, 45 degrees from vertical.
This. Can't go wrong IMO.
Thanks all, mech is at around 4 o'clock on the 42t at full compression so I'm happy with that. Appreciate it shouldn't bottom out when in the 42t but I'd rather cover it just in case.