[Closed] Cassette removal whilst backpacking, touring

I'd firstly be asking why would you ever need to remove the cassette?

I've bikepacked 1000's of miles and never needed to, and never heard of anyone else needing to.

If you're in the western world then you'll never be that far away from a bike shop or another friendly cyclist who you'll be able to borrow one from.

If you're off to Uzbekistan or somewhere similar i'd be going Steel, 26in wheels, V brakes, but thats another discussion.

You often used a hypercracker tool ?

Why ?

Sorry, I'm another one intrigued as to why on earth you would need to remove the cassette (presumably on a fairly regular basis looking at your OP)?
Even touring in third world countries the chances are you'd find help to service a hub or whatever.

More so once its off, exactly what are you going to do ? Replace it with another one ? Rebuild your freehub with the spares your carrying ?

Plus 1 chew. If you put a new cassette on your going to need new chain and rings. Lot to carry over thousands of miles.

If I was cycling beyond a few thousand miles then I would factor in a drive train renewal at some convenient bike shop, they would fit it all while I grabbed some much well earned rest and coffee!

Presumably to replace a drive side spoke, but as above you're not really that far from a bike shop anywhere in Europe to get a repair done. I would have a spare spoke or 2 with me though if they're an odd type or length

My Mavic wheels let me take off the whole free-hub (with cassette still attatched) with just two alen keys (that I carry anyway). Thats a much better way.

C

Sorry if it wasnt clear on the first post, Its in the event of getting a broken spoke and I live and cycle quite a long way away from any town or settlement. Its true its not often that I have had to change the drive side spoke but its useful considering the distances I cover away from towns with bike shops etc

I have the the chainwhip etc for home use but was interested in what people do extracting the cassette to change the drive side spoke on the trail . On reflection i shouldnt have used the word 'often' but rather 'in the past ': )

The a fibrelite spoke instead. No need to take the cassette off.

Due to the forces involved you've only got the choices of chain whip and spanner, or something like the Hypercracker.

If you're concerned about your frame you could carry some kind of metal plate/rod to spread the load when using a hypercracker.

Depends how often you snap a spoke. One a year?
Riding with 1 or 2 snapped spokes for a 100 miles wouldn't bother me, which i hope would be enough to get you home?

Bikepacking is more about what you leave at home, rather than what you take with you 😉

I would just wait for a more convenient time to do what is a completely non-urgent maintenance job. In fact I'm riding around 2 spokes down right now (but that needs a new hub, it's a broken flange).

broken spoke? - just wind it around the nearest one or take off

DT Swiss 240 freehubs just pull off.

DT Swiss 240 freehubs just pull off.

So do the old Hope XC ones, you usually find this out when they fall off at some point.

nikk - Member

DT Swiss 240 freehubs just pull off.

Sometimes. But once they've been on for a while they can put up a ferocious fight once everything's glommed together.

But yeah, unless they're flimsy or low spoke count wheels I'd just wrap it and ride on. Idea used to horrify me but after breaking spokes in races and just battering on even through proper manly terrain I've made peace with it

What about [url= http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1214 ]this[/url] ?

We just take the splined tool and relied on garages who had always have a spanner and an oil filter remover chain.

@murray That's gonna knack his carbon stay in the same as a hypercracker would.

I N R A T S but my guess is he anticipates a broken spoke.

I've done it with a rag wrapped around the cassette and the two tails then twisted together to make a "handle".

You still need a cassette removal tool / socket thing, and a spanner. The rag can be used as a rag whereas a chainwhip is not very good for wiping your hands on.

If you're going to carry everything to cover every eventuality you may as well get a trailer.

TBH I've only broken 2 spokes in the last 10 years, that was on factory built wheels. Now My Man at my LBS has built my wheels, they might need a bit of attention in the next decade or two.

Sorry if it wasnt clear on the first post, Its in the event of getting a broken spoke and I live and cycle quite a long way away from any town or settlement.

For my tour I drilled a hole in a standard cassette removal tool that my allen key fitted into.

[IMG] [/IMG]

You have to use your chain and pedals to hold the cassette in place, its not pretty but it works (unless you carry a chain whip?)

My freehub got sand in it and locked and it needed to be removed to be cleaned. You just never know what will happen especially in the middle of nowhere.

Personally, I just use this - http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b88s0p0

OP - Probably not the best place to ask this sort of question; I don't think many on here actually ride a bike or if they do, not far from their car...

I've had a cassette lock ring come undone twice on the trails. I can see the need for a bodge for the opposite reason.

Bit harsh daleftw

I don't think many on here actually ride a bike or if they do, not far from their car...

You'd hope if people didnt have anything nice to say, they wouldnt say anything at all.

If you are to make statements like that i'd do a bit of research first 😉

You can operate an NBT2 tool (like a hypercracker) with an adjustable spanner (that you may carry) if it's not super tight. For an improvised chain whip I use a kevlar spoke threaded through the cassette and tied to the frame. Alternatively zip-tie the cassette to the spokes to hold it still while you crank on the cassette tool!
As others have said you can fit a kevlar spoke without removing the cassette too.