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Currently trying to remove a cassette but the chain whip wont grip the teeth , as soon as I apply any pressure it slips off. Any tips before I get the Dremel out.
Second pair of hands might be your answer...
Put the chain whip over a rag/cloth,might just find some grip,step away from the Dremel
Had exactly this last week. I eventually managed to find the least worn cog, wedged the whip against that, with a bit of back/forth tension. Attached the removed tool, and whacked it with a rubber mallet. Was enough to loosen the lockring.
Oh,and how gubbed are the cassette teeth?
Sounds obvious but make sure the bit of chain is wrapped around first and then apply the smaller bit of chain on the whip. That way you can really wrap it tight. Or get one of those chain whip/tools which are like a massive set of grips.
Any tips before I get the Dremel out.
Is a Dremel not an appropriate tool to start all bike maintenance with 😄
Is a Dremel not an appropriate tool to start all bike maintenance with
Hammer - Dremel - angle grinder - blowtorch - fists/forehead.
If the cassette is gubbed/scrap then try gripping the largest sprocket with a wrench. Having a longer bar helps get the force through the lockring more effectively.
It doesn't answer your question, but a couple of years ago I got so fed up with the pain of removing my cassette I got one of these:
Works a treat, but obviously it is pricey for the occasional use.
are the teeth on the cassete worn causing slipage? have you tried the biggest cog as likely to be less worn and more leverage?
I 2nd the rag on cassette then chain whip, worked for me a few times on badly worn cassettes.
When my last chain whip broke I swore never to smash my knuckles on another so bought the cassette remover tool from Decathlon which holds the cassette with different number of pins according to speed. It has already saved much blood on the teeth including removing a cassette a mate couldn’t get off using a conventional whip
Hammer – Dremel – angle grinder – blowtorch – fists/forehead.
You are Harry Main and I claim my... 😉
After finding that my trusty old one was playing up with 12 speed I opted to upgrade to the Pedro's on.
Alot easier to use and cant slip off
https://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/pro-chain-whip/
Nobody mentioned a heavy axe 🪓 yet?
How tight are these cassettes? They just need to be tight enough that they won't rattle loose.
Had a similar issue a few times last year. Asked Santa for a Pedro Vice Whip 2. Brilliant tool. My cassette woes are now history. Chain whips are so last year.
Worn teeth. Try different cogs, some will be less worn than others. Or.....
[img] https://images.app.goo.gl/7ZNX8ZtDG8RtPfjG9 [/img]
Pamir Hypercracker (reference for the kids, there).
Tame owner of an impact wrench might be able to help. Cassette lockring no match for power tools & you don't need a chainwhip.
When my last chain whip broke I swore never to smash my knuckles on another so bought the cassette remover tool from Decathlon which holds the cassette with different number of pins according to speed. It has already saved much blood on the teeth including removing a cassette a mate couldn’t get off using a conventional whip
This. We don't have chain whips at work because they are crap. We use the Decathlon tool. Never fails.
Use the old chain in the whip on the biggest cog.
I've been know to wrap parra cord round and use that too.
Adapt improvise overcome beer is my motto
The Decathlon tool is great, albeit a little short. Cheap too. https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/chain-whip-cassette-remover/_/R-p-200
How tight are these cassettes? They just need to be tight enough that they won’t rattle loose.
The torque spec on them is a damn sight tighter than that. I think Shimano is about 45Nm that's pretty ****ing tight.
smash my knuckles
Don’t you just arrange the arm of the chain whip and the arm of the lock ring tool’s spanner / socket racket about 3-4” inches apart at their ends, put fingers on one and thumb on the other with both hands and squeeze gently?
Gets a lot of force in, but if it slips then grazed knuckles are almost impossible.
Or is it just me?
No that's defo the way to do it.
See also square taper cranks. So you don't headbut the top tube.
If it's well stuck, forget about chain whips. Pull cassette and freehub off if possible. Put a couple of bolts in a vice clamped such that you can get the back of the cassette on, then use the removal tool as standard. When I still had an XD cassette / Hope Pro Evo 2 setup this was pretty much the only way I could get it off sensibly (after chain whips broke, bike shop gave up, etc)
This tube explains:
Torque spec is 40Nm - a bit over the top.
montgomery
Free Member
Pamir Hypercracker (reference for the kids, there).
I've still got one in my tool box somewhere. Works pretty well once you managed to get the damn thing + wheel into the frame.