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Changed the rear wheel bearings (not freehub) my my pro4 the other day using sockets.
All went fine, put it back together, all span freely, no issues.
Went out for a ride and the shifting was off. Inverted bike and span the pedals and the cassette had a noticeable wobble.
Cruised back home, stripped it back down, all looks ok. Reassembled and the same thing. I suspect I've missed a spacer or something.
Setup is pro4 non boost with Hope boost kit. Microspline freehub, m6100 cassette.
In terms of washers etc I'm pretty sure it's all gone back right.
Hub shell > small spacer > freehub assembly > thick spacer > MS end cap.
Bearings are all seated flush and evenly, and when you spin the wheel on it's own (but keep pedals still) the cassette doesn't oscillate. No play in the cassette.
Points to a freehub installation issue to me?
I'm about to go out to try again on this, but any ideas would be great...
Is your cassette one of those with a single small sprocket? Its possible to put that on in the wrong orientation and the nut will still thread I think - that can give rise to this
when you spin the wheel on it’s own (but keep pedals still) the cassette doesn’t oscillate.
Points to a freehub installation issue to me?
Yes. You're spinning the wheel on the freehub bearings and they are running true. When you spin the wheel on the main hub bearings, it wobbles - so the freehub is not sitting straight on the hub.
@martinhutch - yeah, have checked against that and the bearing change video as well.
@tjagain - yeah, its the one where the small sprocket attaches to the rest of the cluster via some splines. But I've double checked it's on the right way - going ot go out again and clean it out in case there's grit or similar in.
@Greybeard - thanks 🙂 yeah, and that's what I don't get - I haven't touched the freehub assembly, so pretty much all it can do is slide onto the axle. it does that fine and there are no tight spots anywhere, so the only other option is the cassette not sitting straight on the freehub, but with the tight tolerances, I just can't see how.
the only other option is the cassette not sitting straight on the freehub
That's not an option, because when you keep the freehub body still and spin the cassette on the freehub bearing, it doesn't wobble. So it must be either a bent axle (which I have seen with old cup & cone bearings but I can't see how you'd bend an axle by changing the bearings) or the freehub not straight on the axle. I'm not familiar with the pro4, but is the inside diameter of the hole in the freehub bigger than the axle it slides onto, and it's held central by spacers? Could you have a tapered spacer the wrong way round?
I forget how hope freehubs work and i'm not going downstrair to look. However...
On my novatec hubs The axle screwed in to hold the freehub on if that works loose it allows the freehub to slide side to side. it caused no end of shifting issues before I became aware of it (as I went over the handlebars and landed in a pile on the road two pedal strokes from my house with 4 broken spokes)
when you keep the freehub body still and spin the cassette on the freehub bearing, it doesn’t wobble.
Does not make sense.
Does the cassette wobble when freewheeling only?
Bent axle cannot cause this-it is static.
I think we need better description/clearer language, but agreed this sounds really odd (more often seen on C+C hubs or screw-on).
I had this with a new Pro 4 - it was replaced under warranty. Just a thought but could your's be mis manufactured to a lesser extent that it now shows up after use and maintenance with reassembly by hand?
Right, only had time to look at this today.
Striped it so back down and cleaned out the cassette and interface, put it back together, and lightly torqued it. Put it back on the bike, all good.
Took it off, tightened the Lickitung fully, during which there was a small 'ping'. Put it back together and it's squint again.
I'm wondering if the slight chamfer at the back of the cassette is causing it to seat incorrectly on the freehub.
Does anyone know if either the Hope MS driver or the 6100 cassette come with a washer that should go in that interface, that I've managed to lose?
I know the xtr one comes with thin plastic film one to stop creaks, but I've looked at both the Hope diagrams and the Shimano ones and couldn't see one on either?
Lol at 'lickitung' 😀 can you tell I've been googling Pokemon for a 7 year old? Lockring, obvs...
Gah, this is driving me nuts!
Video here:
https://imgur.com/a/RGYd0Pk
That's strangely hypnotic. I could be here hours watching that.
There should be an adhesive ring on the back of that cassette. Is it still there? Not sure that would be the cause of this issue though.
Have you got all the correct spacers in and alignment marks lined up?
This cassette was pre adhesive ring I think, but I don't think that would do it.
Yeah, checked all the assembly diagrams and have got the thick > thin ones in all the right places. Cassette spacing is fine.
Going to try swapping with the XTR one in my other bike and see if the issue movers with cassette or wheel.
I had this very same problem with Hope pro 2 Evo with an Xd driver and e13 cassette.
It was driving me nuts for ages.
I checked absolutely everything i could think of. It Turned out to be a problem mounting the cassette to the free hub. Hope's XD driver is slightly different from Srams version.
E13 supplied me with shims to fix the problems but they didn't work.
I appreciate you've a different setup but maybe worth considering.
Took it off, tightened the Lickitung fully, during which there was a small ‘ping’.
That sounds to me very much like something is misaligned and thus moving into a new position under pressure.
Yup TJ, that's what I'm thinking, but it's driving me mad trying to work out what.
This is the cassette that came off, and was bob on before, so I've obviously either asked it wrong or missed something. I'm not pretending it's anything other than my fault.
Have you read the Manual
This bit sounds like it might relate to the "ping" you heard.
Install the sprockets with the wide protrusions and grooves aligned. If the lock ring is tightened with the sprockets improperly positioned, the splines on the sprockets may be damaged during tightening. That may cause a sudden release of resistance on the wrench being used to tighten the lock ring, which in turn may cause injury. In addition, if the bicycle is ridden with the sprockets improperly installed, damage or chain skip may occur, which can cause the rider to fall over, resulting in serious injury
Cheers, yeah, been over both the manual and the setup with a fine toothed comb. All the splines/dots are in line. I'm sure of that.
There should be an adhesive ring on the back of that cassette. Is it still there? Not sure that would be the cause of this issue though.
Dingdingding! We have a winner! Turns out mine wasn't pre adhesive! Pulled the cassette and driver off and inspected it mounted up. Could see this ring was slightly trapped in the interface. Subsequently a bit mangled, so pulled the cassette off and removed the ring. Remounted, and tada! Nice and straight! It's always the simplest things!
Thanks @Jordan and everyone else who contributed.
Cool! Glad you got it sorted.