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I have read few threads about cassette wobble, but they don't seem to finish with an outcome. I noticed when I fitted my XT cassette and now a Sunrace 11-46 cassette that when I put them on the splines of both my shimano free hub and the other wheel's American Classic hub, they're nowhere near snug onto the splines. So when the cassette is on and the locking tightened, you can actually grab the big cog and wobble the cassette around. I'm sure it'll be fine under pedalling torque, but I reckon it's going to make a racket otherwise.
As the shimano wheels are not used much at all, I'd be surprised if the splines have worn down. I tried a 1mm spacer at the rear of the cassette, there was no difference. Splines greased too.
Anyone had this and cured it? Maybe a new free hub helped tighten things up? I should add I don't have a torque wrench to get the 40nm, but I tighten well hand tight u til the point I feel more would strip the threads.
Cheers.
Sounds like you need more spacers to me. The cassette will rattle around on the hub if it's not cinched down tight enough. You shouldn't need 40nm to get it tight enough that it doesn't move. More like 10nm to remove the play.
+1 for the spacers - I had this same issue for a while
Are you certain that it's the cassette wobbling and not the freehub?
M.
Also, are you installing a large cassette onto a road freehub by any chance?
None of mine are a perfect fit, they're fine in use - I guess it's due to 'tolerances' not been right.
Which way does it wobble?
In and out or round and round?
In and out may be fixed with a spacer, round and round may be worn splines.
I had major cassette wobble on my road bike..
fitted an SLX 10 speed MTB cassette for some lower gears with an aluminium lock ring i had..
a few rides later i was cleaning the cassette and it was moving on the splines a fair bit..
everything looked setup right..
the cassette had the same amount of play on the splines with no lock ring on as my other wheels..
no room for any spacers either..
torqued right..
was at a complete loss..
found an old steel lock ring and tried that.. and the majority of the movement stopped.
Thanks for the replies guys. I've just had another play with it, the movement is definitely coming from the cassette to free hub mating. Even when the cogs slip over the hub you can move them side to side a bit, the bore is effectively too large for the shaft so to speak.
Tried a couple of spacers as one didn't really make any difference, but with 2 thin spacers, I couldn't even get the lock ring to catch on. It's not terrible, but you know you just want zero rattles if poss.