My Trigger 4 came with a Deore triple crank upfront.
My Trigger 4 also came with a Deore triple. From what i`ve seen the majority were all built up with a Deore triple, they have moved onto using a double now on this years Trigger 4.
Deore triple cranks on my 2015 trigger 4. 96 bcd
Is anyone using the blackspure snaggletooth narrow wide? If so how you getting on with it? Cheers
I'm using the Works Components oval narrow wide. I reckon ones as good as the other. Works came recommended in this thread.
I currently have the one up components narrow wide which is great because could use original bolts and didn't need to space ring out at all. Just a bit worried with the snaggletooth that I'll need different bolts ect
Hi new here.
I've got a snaggletooth to fit. I'll post up if it goes on with the original bolts.
Got a 2015 trigger 4 27.5".
So far fitted a reverb, zee front brake and zee rear mech. Gone tubeless with a nobby nic on the front, high roller 2 on the rear.
Love the bike. Took it to les gets earlier on in the year and it coped very well. Better than I did!
Nice upgrades bro, if you could let me know how you get on with the narrow wide that would be great. How come you changed the brakes?
I fitted the snaggletooth with the original bolts from the triple. I needed to give each a trim with the hacksaw. Lasted about a year before my bike fell about 5m of a brilliant photo rock. I had to hammer the chain ring straight with a wee rock to get me home. Stupid wind
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Lol totally worth it
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swainy90,
Mate sold the zee cheap. Brand new never fitted.
A bit more power than the slx one. Also when doing some long descents in France was a bit less prone to brake fade.
Got more mods planned, but first need some bushings for the rear suspension.
Looking fresh crazymac. What you mean by bushing for the rear sus? Yeah got zee on my dh bike they are good tbh. You increased rotor size or left as it is? How you get on with the snaggletooth dude?
I'm having serious issue with my chain coming off the top and jamming in between my frame and my tyre. Driving me crazy can't really do any decent for throttle cuz chain comes off all the time. Was great when first set up 1x10 but horrendous now
Chain ring worn or has the narrow wide gone out of Sync?
Bent tooth?
I've got a chain device thingy on mine to be safe.
Don't think anything bent I've never hit the chain ring and chain shouldn't of changed. Maybe it's just work like you said
My chain went there once after is cleaned my clutch mech. It needed tightening to the Max to stop the chain slap. Shifting is now tight but the chain stays on.
Man it's been so long without my bike but didn't realize they were waiting on an OK from me. Turns out staying with 140mm, the internals are a different design so it's not just a spacer removal.
Fox asked my shop if I ride really aggressive since the seals are wearing fast. The service center with the lefty asked the same thing. It's getting new seals too with the recall work but yeah coming back at 140.
Has anybody else had problems yet with their Mavic SLR wheels?
I am having a nightmare, my lbs had a look and replaced the bearings but the movement in the hub returned after 2 miles or so, I sent them back to Paul's cycles and finally got them back with a note saying the bearings have again been replaced.
Tried to fit them to the bike last night and now they do not fit!
The preload screw doesn't do anything, almost like it is too short.
With my crank bros wheel, you screw it on and off the hub using the preload screw but my slr pushes straight on and the bolt is rattling around.
Help please as warranty is up soon and it is a ball ache to keep sending them back and forth!
No done he snaggletooth yet. Been busy and had to order a crank tool as I left mine at work.
By bushes I mean the ones where the top arms go into the top pivot. Got a knocking coming from there and there's a bit of play.
@astromatt
Sounds like you may be having the same issue someone else here had earlier. The Lefty wheels are supposed to have the bolt inside of the outer lockring. If they sent you the wheel back with the bolt separated, which isn't a surprise given the service, then you need to take that lockring off and put the bolt inside.
Help. I'm in the middle of fitting Hope E4 brakes to my Trigger 2 Carbon. The hope caliper clashes with the Cannondale rear caliper. I don't know what I need to get in order to mount my brake. I'm assuming the Cannondale mount is proprietary?
Is there a Hope adaptor that I can replace the Cannondale with? Or am I going to have to step the rear up to a 180 instead (prefer not)? What do I need? I know someone has done this on a jekyll.
Thanks.
Fitted a 32t snaggletooth. Used the original bolts no probs. Now to test it in anger.
Ordered a KP176 180mm adapter from cannondale spares de and a 180mm RT86 rotor.
Bah just go to 203
Its question time again guys. Still suffering with chain drops and I've tightened the clutch but still no good. Thinking chain device is next option. Has anyone fitted the one up components low direct chain guide. I think it should fit but can't work out how it will as there is only one bolt whole front where the front derailleur used to be but the device has to bolt holes. Any info would be greatly appreciated as my issue is stopping me ridin!! Aha cheers
What about the mount that the front mech mounted into?
Swainy. Both Ashy and I are running that one up low direct mount. Works fine.
Swainy. The front derailleur had a little bracket attached to it. Black. Screws into the frame. Has two holes on it. One of them, the shorter, aligns to a small threaded holiday on the frame that doesn't look ike a bolt hole but is. It does on the carbon anyway - can't remember what you have.
Hole not holiday. No idea what my phone was thinking!
Is anyone using a water bottle on theirs?
I have a large Trigger and wonder if a 500ml bottle will fit with an Elite Custom Race bottle cage with zero faffage in terms of getting it in and out.
Def won't work with a 750ml but I don't have a smaller bottle to check.
If that bottle and cage combo doesn't work can you recommend one that does? Cheers
I used a 500ml bottle and cage on my large and it worked fine. I now use the fabric bottle.
Good to know about the 750ml not fitting.
I use a 750ml bottle on my large with a side entry bottle cage just fine. One of those camelbak ice cool thingies.
Just fitted my new brakes. Still waiting on a caliper adapter for the rear and need to fine tune reach etc. XT brakes will be up for sale soon.
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A nice ride out today to test out the snaggletooth. No issues and the chain stayed on. All was well until.... a pedal came off!
Liking the red and black hopes.
Love it abmatt least the chainring was sound aha!! Zerolight how much for the xt brakes? Are they m8000?
Hi Swainy. They are the 785 that came on my Carbon in April.
I reckon £65 shipped and Paypal is pretty fair for the pair. They've done 900km and work flawlessly.
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Parkesie they are pretty pimp huh?
Must not buy some for mine 🙂
Here's a 750ml bottle on mine. Side entry cage. Easy to get in and out whilst cycling up a tough climb.
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Question for the techies out there. Been having a few issue with my drivetrain and thinking maybe just upgrade the lot new narrow wide, chain, cassette, derailleur then will be sweet hopefully. Question is I currently have the standard slx clutch mech. Do I upgrade to the zee or xt? Then do I go long or medium cage in the xt or short cage zee. What does the cage length affect?
Cage length affects the size of the gear spread you can get on the rear cassette. I'm running what u assume is medium XT with a sunrace 11-42t black alu cassette. Works OK with a goat link. I'll probably upgrade this year if SRAM bring out an affordable 12 speed.
In other news - my brakes are finally on as the 180 brake adaptor arrived today. Need to bed them in and go for a ride on Saturday.
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They look lovely! Not jealous at all! How heavy are they vs the XT?
Ashy. I never thought to check. 🙂 Blinded by the bling. I used to have M4s on my old bike and kinda missed them. According to the Internet it's 287g each end for the Shimano and 266g for the Hope. So there's probably a bag of crisps in it.
I miss my old m4s too. One finger stoppies at will. Let me know how you get on with the new ones. If they're as good as the old m4s I might well be tempted!
Any carbon owners running offset bushings? Curious if they are worth trying. Not that I have any issues with my bike right now.
Yup, I do. no complaints here.
What did the change feel like?
Hmmm. Hard to say honestly. Perhaps less sharp in elevate mode, but really not that much difference, and I think because you have the ability to switch travel and geometry with the elevate/flow switch that it's fairly hard to pinpoint a difference, as the bike feels so different switching between the modes. I hadn't had the bike that long when I did it, so didn't have a lot to compare it to.
Cheers. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Offsetbushings.com? Did you install a pair? Holes inside right?
Yes, offsetbushings.com, great service. Holes opposite to a normal shock, so inside. Not convinced they don't rotate under the pull force tbh!
Ah yes. Outside since its pull. And given that, under tension as the rear compresses and pulls the shock they will naturally want to move outwards so won't rotate inwards.
Guy on pink bike said the outer bush sleeve was too wide for his Jekyll and needed filed down so as not to contact hus frame. No such issues you're end?
Hiya guys. Anyone decided to upgrade to 1x11 on there trigger 4? Dunno if it's worth it really? If so what did you go for and how much better is it?
Maybe one bushing is enough, changing the angle by about 0.75 degrees vs two for 1.5 degrees. Seems most trail bikes run around 67 degrees, like the Bronson. The Trigger is 67.5 in flow and 68 in elevate. One bushing would give you 66.8 and 67.2. Even that seems to remove some of the benefit of the elevate mode. No?
Swainy. Depends. If you are going 1x anyway?
1x10 vs 1x11 the main difference is the steps between gears. You still have the same 11-42 range (unless you convert to SRAM and go 10-42).
In my case I didn't want to fuss with a new rear mech and front shifter so I just swapped the cassette to 11-42 and the fro the ring to an oval 32t.
However if you plan to change your rear mech too then you you as well go the whole hog with 1x11 and replace the shifter too. No sense not to. But then if you are going to go the whole hog route, it makes sense to wait a bit and see if SRAM bring out a cheaper 1x12. In which case do what I did as a stop gap.
I have offset bushings on my Trigger 4, I run 2 bushings and it has made it a great stable descender and a huge amount of fun. But, the bottom bracket is now very low and the front is very wandery when climbing.
Cheers zero light. I'm currently running a 30t narrow wide and rear cassette is 11-36. Can you buy a cassette that's 11-42 then? This would definitely help with my climbs
Swainy,
I bought this one, the Sunrace MX3. Not only is it a cool black colour, but it's lighter than the £10 cheaper silver one by a reasonable amount.
http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/sunrace-mx3-10-speed-11-42t-black-wide-ratio-mtb-cx-cassette
I also installed a goatlink to get a better chain wrap.
http://shop.18bikes.co.uk/m9b0s599p2459/LINDARETS-Goatlink-2015
The only caveat that I didn't originally budget for, I needed a longer chain to cope with the 11-42. It needed two more links than the 11-36. I'm guessing you shortened yours for the 30t, so you could maybe put them back, otherwise get a new chain too.
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I so need to clean that cassette!
longmover - have you tried just one bush to see how that affects your BB and climbing?
I haven't and don't intend to, I like the way it feels and can trade of the climbing side of things as the extra slackness benefits the downhill side of things. The BB height isn't too much of an issue just a few more pedal strikes than normal. I have a 430mm long reverb at about 10mm off the limit on an XL frame so when it is extended fully I sit pretty close to being inline with the rear axle.
Zerolight that looks Great mate. Is the goatlink to replace part of the original hanger then? Also did you have to do much to the derailleur so it is able to change to a much bigger size (42) or is it ok? Think I might go down the same route as you mate seems a decent set up
Initially I wound out the rear derailleur a fair bit with the b-tension screw. That worked but it was a little more sluggish to shift. Then I got a goatlink which as you say replaces the existing link. You can do it in a couple of mins without releasing cable tension. Then I put the b-tension back where it should go. The main thing was chain length, but the 32t oval is 34t in one direction, 30 in the other, so I had to cater for maybe more chain length than you.
Back end bearing just pronounced dead on mine. Can't grumble after 2,350 km.
Cheers zerolight gonna buy tonight just one thing. What chain did you go for mate? Gonna order the whole lot. 32t narrow wide chain cassette change the whole lot. Cheers
KMC X10.93
Ashy. Brakes were awesome today. Very adjustable. Way less grabby than the XT. Plenty of power and control.
Oh no, don't tell me that!
I ran two offset bushes in my Jekyll - was miles better than stock as I felt the BB is/was too high
I've ordered one bushing to try. Sounds like it'll get me to ballpark Bronson angles of 66.8 to 67.2 depending on mode.
Can someone give me a run down on these bushing. I have no clue what they do but a lot of you are talking about them so must be advantageous. Is it to adjust the geometry of the frame?
They shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is. On a pull shock this has the same affect on the bike as compressing the shock slightly would, making the bike sit lower at the start of the travel. This does two things, it lowers the bottom bracket and slackers the head angle. One bush moves it about 0.75 degrees, two 1.5. Each bushing drops the BB around 5mm.
Stock, your bike has a 68 degree head angle in elevate. When you flick the lever to flow it slackens to 67.5 and the BB drops 5mm.
If you stick one bush in, you will start at about 67.2 or thereabouts, and the drop to around 66.7 when you move to flow. If you run with two then you'll start around 66.5 in elevate and drop to 66 in flow.
Modern trail bikes tend to be around 66.5 to 67. The Bronson for example is 67. More burly enduros like the Yeti SB6 are around 66. I do a lot of climbing so going below 67 in elevate seems too much, not that I've tried.
Slacker should mean more stable at speed downhill, and easier to lift the front. Small changes apparently gave a big impact. I've not tried one of these yet. Too slack and it wanders and lifts when climbing.
Cheers zero light definitely sounds like a decent addition. Tbh I been thinking about getting an enduro because I do find jumping from my dh bike to the trigger I'm struggling with front end dipping. Where do you buy these bushes from? Are they easy to fit also. And changing the geometry of the bike can this cause stress point in the frame?
Offsetbushings.com
Looks like remove a bolt. Pull the bushings. Fit the new ones. I imagine we might need to take air out the shock too but not certain. I'm just getting one, will swap out the one at the top of the shock. I think they are fairly harmless. But I'm changing it at the linkage rather than the frame end just in case.
easy enough to change - remove the shock from the frame - use a bushing removal tool to remove the original shock DU bushes, press in the new supplied offset.com DU bushes then install the actual offset drilled mounting, roughly line up where the offset hole needs to be, assemble the shock back in the frame, compress the rear suspension to fully align the offsets then tighten the mounting bolts up.
My input to this thread is a few pages back and I really struggled with my Jekyll's geometry once 'new bike syndrome' wore off. Offsets were a good move and it started to feel geometry wise where I wanted it to be. Then the bloody thing cracked!
shorter than it isThey shift the position of the eyelets in the shock relative to the frame. In the case of the Jekyll and Trigger, they make the frame see the shock as a little bit longer than it actually is.
Rusty, on a push shock they make it appear shorter. On a pull shock the make it appear longer (unless you put them in back to front). The dyad extends (gets longer) under rear compression unlike a traditional shock.
Stuck my carbon2 into a drystone wall front tyre ripped off front brake hose torn out of calliper me bruised and cut to shit. Wall had a big hole in it. Xrays came back no breaks and my arm should work again in a couple of days. Fork and frame survived unscathed which is a relief.
Sounds like you had a lucky escape. Managed to do the same on my trigger 4 a year ago..... totalled the frame, glad yours survived with minor damage.
