[Closed] Cannondale Trigger? Bargain

I changed to 471,rms from crossroc
No problems so far , feel a lot stiffer than the crossroc

Thanks EG, I keep flip flopping between the 481 and the 471. 😀

30 won't be too wide for a 2.35 and probably not a 2.25, DT Swiss even has charts with a 40mm wide rim on 2.35 tires. Good point on the tire though, they could well make tires with treads outboard more to account for the wider platform that comes with wide rims, or sidewall changes. But the difference in how it sits isn't huge until you hit 40, so not sure companies are going to flock to yet another line of tire to design and stock.

[img] https://www.dtswiss.com/CmsPages/GetFile.aspx?guid=189185f7-9580-4237-899f-fa3571e56cbd [/img]

https://www.dtswiss.com/Technology/MTB-rim-width

Thanks JNM1. Thats useful.

Keep in mind there isn't such a thing as a rim being 'too wide' for a tire until you're really stretching it width wise to the point it wont support itself vertically because the sidewall is gone.

Agreed. Just don't want to lose the edge wrap.

It seems to be a common opinion that the Mavic Crossroc rims are too flexy and too narrow, has anyone tried, or is it possible, to replace just the rim with something wider and stiffer?

Just a thought......

The issue is they are also only 24 spoke so changing really needs new hubs too. Just been in Evans checking out the EX471 rims attached to a couple of Norco bikes. Very nice looking rims.

I just wouldn't bother building around the stock Mavic hubs. Jenson will sell you a set of DT350s for $275. Course we need the lefty hub but the Cannondale front + 350 rear will up it to about $300. Keep the Crossrocs with tires on, maybe even with tubes, for seriously crap days or you walk out to a flat.

Just about to order EX471 rims. 32 spokes front and rear. Supermax hub up front, Hope Pro 4 hub out back in black. Sapim race spokes in black. Will be built with the nipples that DT ship with the wheels. Am I missing anything? Using PT Cycles.

Looks good, enjoy them

Cheers. Ordered earlier today.

By the way, the oval chain ring (34/30 oval) almost feels like cheating. Cycled with a friend today and found that on the climbs I was pulling away. Lots of PRs. Very pleased with it.

Anyone got a link for a 203mm lefty brake adaptor?

When i was looking for a 203mm adaptor i read that cannondale only warrant a 180mm rotor on the lefty and I guess they don't make them because of that reason.

TFT have the parts in now for the 2spring upgrade. I'm going to strip mine down this week and send it off for the work to be carried out Friday. Get it back early next week.

ssmith - when you removed your lefty using the mallet and plastic tubing - I presume the 40mm OD tubing doesn't fit, did you use 32mm pipe and just balance it against one edge of the steerer tube?

Well that was fairly straight forwards. I stripped the stem and what not off the bike then initially tried a mallet with a cork block in between but that didn't seem to have any affect, so I tried the mallet direct to the steerer, but flipped 90 degrees so I was hitting it gently with a large flat side of the mallet head rather than the face of the head. Two gentle taps and it dropped. The issue I had, as ssmith points out, is that it then catches firmly half way out. I ended up getting a second hammer and placing the wooden edge gently on the end of the steerer and tapping it, alternating sides, and it popped out easily enough.

I'd have liked to have had the ernie tool to make it easier and less fiddly though. Maybe next time. Anyway, all packed up and ready to go.

Actually, this looks perfect for the job. 38.1mm wooden dowel.

http://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/ash-dowels-config-1151

Question?
Are other shocks compatible with the Trigger or does it have to be the Dyad shock?

Mate has one & the noise its making is not good. Squeaks & groans with every pedal. He's going to get it fixed on warranty but if not he's thinking of swapping it out all together.

Unfortunately, only shock is the Dyad as it's a pull shock.

The squeak will be the sag indicator. Just pull the metal bar out and store it someplace safe for when you need it. Squeak will be gone.

Definitely want to hear how the new solo springs go.

Anyone know where to buy the cable ties from the lefty? I could get other ones easily but if the stock are available I'd just use that.

Do you mean cable ties or cable guides?

Maybe these.

http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/search.asp?keyword=Lefty+band&sortby=0&catid=1473

TFT just called. My Lefty is on the way back now with the 2Spring upgrade. Shame I won't have my new wheels until next week.

Whilst I have the bike up on the workstand with the fork removed I decided to re-organise the cables so they flow better - moving my rear gear cable and right mounted travel lever through the Lefty and moved the the dropper and rear brake to the opposite side. Looks much cleaner.

I noticed that there's been quite a bit of cable rub on the underside of the downtube since I bought the bike, just behind the headtube, where the cables flow out towards the bars. If you haven't already, I suggest you stick some helicopter tape in there to protect your carbon frame.

zero yup that's the ties I need, out of stock though. I busted one in a crash and I wanna get it back to right.

I took all the stickers off the lefty, have some vinyl coming that if it works well as a wrap I'll post pics. I think it will look good if the vinyl itself is as nice as it looks in the pics and if my skills are up to snuff. Not the entire fork top to bottom, leaving some black showing. But I also like hot it looks jet black with the all black stickerless rims, black spokes, tires etc. So not a total loss if it doesn't work.

zero... also you should ride 1 upgrade at a time anyhow so you can really ascertain what changes you notice are from the upgrade. If you have a new fork spring, new front wheel, and presumably a different tire relationship to the rim (if not also a new tire) it will be impossible to know what changes are attributed to what.

Built the bike back up. Factory wheels. Only had a short ride up the street and down a grassy hilly trail at the end of it. Lefty definitely feels different. I'd say small bump is more sensitive and there's definitely a bit more support / different feel at the end of the travel. I'm going by memory.

Obviously not this clunky but I think it could work. Not sure how well the backing is going to stick though. Think I'll give it a shot.

[img] [/img]

Noooooo! I love the factory decals.

The decals are gone and not coming back. If the wrap doesn't work out I'll leave it black.

I think the factory graphics are quite eighties style!

They're not bad just not very unique or fun.

Is that a cable looping across the front of your crank JNM1?

Thats just how they are, it's the dyad lever, never bumped it, will check if it could be tightened up tho

[img] [/img]

Maybe it's just the perspective of your photo, it looks like its quite clear of the frame in a big loop. It should come straight down, against the middle of the metal protector plate and the up the under the downtune. Nice smooth run, and well clear of the cranks, and definitely not looping under the frame ready to catch a root.

If it's too long, it's really easy to shorten. Cut the cable end cap off, loosen the grub screw on the shock, pull the cable out the bottom, and up inside the outer, chop the outer down, feed the cable back through the shock, press the barrel at down slightly then tighten the barrel grub screw again (that pre-tensions the cable a wee bit), chop off the excess and fit a new cap. Takes about 5 mins. Or just push/pull the excess cable up to the bars instead.

[img] [/img]

I shortened it a bit with a much, much easier way. I just gave a gentle tug on the lockout switch cable from the headtube.

Not wild about the vinyl. It's more the vinyl itself isn't enough red. I think Ill be sticking with all black but will keep it a bit and see if it grows on me.

Let's see a photo of the finished fork?

I've got my ex471s on now. Looking forward to taking it out for a spin. Loving the hope hub sounds though the dramatically more rapid engagement makes the higher gears clunk a bit. That'll take some time to get used to. Liking the 32 spokes up front over the 24 on the Mavic.

I almost want to replace the 105 hub on my road bike with a Hope just for the clicking.

Almost done with mine. Still need to sort out the tyre pressures and fit a goatlink. Shame the new fabric saddle is more black /orange than the claimed black / red.

[img] [/img]

Looks good does that Zero! Need to get my WildGriprs back on, these mavic tyres are far less confidence inspiring!

Thanks Ashy. Looking forward to Sundays loop around part of the West Highland Way.

Did yours come with the Red Supermax graphics? Mine are grey...

Mine are half red half grey like this one,...

[img] [/img]

I hummed and hawed over putting a goatlink on for my sunrace 11-42t. Caved and ordered one yesterday. Huge difference to the shifting and the chain wrap. Only took 5 mins to fit too.

Strange question guys. I've got a trigger 4 and do some short xc rides so just want a bottle of water to take around with me. I have now bought two bottle cages and bottles and both have been awkward to get bottle in and out without fouling on the frame when taking out and in. Can anyone that has the same bike as me recommend a bottle cage and bottle that will fit with ease. I use chain reaction a lot so if purchased off there that would be great. Cheers in advance

I use a Specialised Zee Cage on mine. The same as the one on zerolight's bike above. Works fine with a 750ml bottle. That is on a large carbon frame.

Looks good but don't them clips rub a scratch the frame?

I am also suffering with major chain slap causing no end of chain drop and even coming off the jockey wheels at the back and jamming up. I have the standard slx clutch rear derailleur which works great at the bottom but the top of the chain is bouncing all over the shop. Is there anyway round this?

None of my bottle cage touches the frame. I think what you are referring to as clips is the pump holder that is mounted under the bottle cage. It isn't part of the bottle cage.

Ahhh ok thanks Jason. Think I'll get one ordered

I am also suffering with major chain slap causing no end of chain drop and even coming off the jockey wheels at the back and jamming up. I have the standard slx clutch rear derailleur which works great at the bottom but the top of the chain is bouncing all over the shop. Is there anyway round this? I have the cannondale trigger 4 which I have upgraded to single narrow wide up front. Not sure but could it be because my rear mech is either a long or medium cage which need upgrading to a shorter one?

Swainy. I had that issue for one ride just after I removed and deep cleaned my clutch mech slx. I tightened the clutch as tight as it goes. Haven't dropped a chain since. The shifting was stiff for a ride but now seems back to normal

Cheers crazy. How do you tighten the clutch? Also it's the top part of my chain that is bouncing all over the shop because there nothing to tension it which is why the chain is coming off. Bottom part of the chain where the clutch is working is stiff

I use a side loading bottle cage. Specialized Zee I think.

Swainy maybe you need to shorten your chain.

My chain also got sucked in and jammed between the tyre and frame. It didn't come off the chain ring. This hasn't happened since I tightened the clutch.
Turn the clutch off.
Remove the cover.
Tighten the very small bolt.
Details on youtube.

I've also had that lots of times crazy. Ok cheers I will try what you mentioned see if that helps. Do they loosen over time then the clutch mechanism?

Had a great ride today!

[img] [/img]

The clutch uses friction to stop the bouncing so it does need adjusting. I couldn't feel a massive tension difference with my hand pushing the mech but I haven't had much chain slap or chain drops since

Try a Fabric cageless bottle:
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Fabric-Cageless-Water-Bottle-600ml_86013.htm

I have one, but due to a buggered back haven't had a chance to test it! MRI in two weeks so fingers crossed its nothing too serious.

Been out cycling once since June and it's doing my head in!

Pauls have got a couple of 2016 habits and a jekyll going cheap and the new 2017 range up now. Mean while the trigger is doing sterling work of making me smile.

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5702/30543513120_8738c71c79_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5702/30543513120_8738c71c79_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Nx2ukb ]DSC_0735[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/parkesiemtb/ ]chris[/url], on Flickr

Quick question for the people that have taken their lefty-equipped bikes to their local 'dale dealer to have it sent off for the upgrade - did the dealer charge labour and/or postage?

Also, has anyone noticed much of a difference in performance?

No one?

I took mine off myself. Quite easy. Sent to TFT . Paid shipping for outbound only. My dealer planned to charge shipping only too. Via dealers they go to Cannondale distributors for work. Via yourself they go to TFT.

Not a huge difference in performance. Biggest difference I find even before upgrading is to regularly reset bearings, like every month.

Pauls have the carbon 2 in stock again £2300 and some jekyls

I've just been in to Paul's Cycles shop in East Dereham today. One of the guys behind the counter was a complete numpty (the retail apprentice apparently), didn't know anything about bikes! Luckily, I spoke to some of the guys there who do ride bikes and they reckon that they have some 2016 Jekyll 3 and 4 bikes coming in any day... They wouldn't give me an exact price, but they reckon V-Cheap! I'm picking my bike up from it's service later this week so will scope out the deals then.

So because he's an apprentice he's a numpty?

They do read this thread you know.

Absolutely no offence intended.. .That said. From what I overheard, I don't think this particular example could read/write/do anything worthwhile. Nothing against the very capable apprentices that proliferate elsewhere naturally. 😉

Havent had much to post. Dropped it off for the spring recall and decided to go for the 160mm while they're at it, should be $40 so why not. I find that on the really high speed rock gardens I like to ride that the lefty gets packed so I run pretty high pressure and pretty fast rebound but that impacts the rest of the riding. Thinking that 160 gives me more leeway to work here, either keep the same setup and not pack it or drop the pressure and rebound a tad and get more use of the fork.

On the question of service yes they are charging for removal and reinstall, but I am such a horrid bike mechanic I want them doing it not me. Worth the small labor charge to not have me do something that voids a warranty or cracks something.

The Dyad blew a huge lugie of snot at me when I reset the sag one day and it was getting pretty bobby riding it. Think water got in it. Servicing that too.

Shop is doing their standard first year of ownership service while it's there.

Will be without it for 2+ weeks but it'll be better than new when I get it back.

they have a couple of Jekyll frames going really cheap... really tempted. Anybody here ridden one? Not sure if the extra weight would be worth it for those 20mm of travel.. Particularly as there are no hills where I live!

Never ridden it. Jekyll has a higher BB than the Trigger does, it's actually + offset. You can add +20 to the Trigger lefty just not the rear. You can also put chips in both to drop them -1*. Supposedly the Trigger gets -1* from going to 160mm. So if you do 160 trigger + chips you end up with roughly the same head angle as the Jekyll with chips but a lower BB and 140 rear travel. I can't do both or I'll never make it up the steep hills here so I chose the 160mm travel.

Travel isn't only for hills. A perfectly smooth hill would be fine on a 100mm HT. If you ride flat nasty rock gardens or rooty areas at speed the extra travel can come in super handy.

New Jekyll is only lefty in Carbon 1, no more in Carbon 2.

Blatant plug but im selling my brand new boxed/unbuilt warranty replacement 2016 Jekyll frame, shock, Hilo post, Sram1400 cranks with Raceface direct mount sprocket if anyones interested?

Thinking about some new wider rims for the Trigger 4. ERD is 3mm less so just swapping them straight over *should* be ok. 29mm internal width will make a difference I hope?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/wtb-frequency-i-29-mtb-rim-2017/rp-prod151649

Just a quick one guys. Anyone of the top of there head remember the bcd on the shimano deore cranks supplied with the cannondale trigger 4? Cheers

Trigger 4 wasn't deore cranks, but the ones supplied were 96bcd

Cheers mate. Pretty sure mine are deore???? What are they if not?

herodirt22 - Member

they have a couple of Jekyll frames going really cheap... really tempted. Anybody here ridden one? Not sure if the extra weight would be worth it for those 20mm of travel.. Particularly as there are no hills where I live!

So for non-hilly landscapes it sounds like a non-starter IMHO, but would be a nice luxury to have for trips to the mountains. My interest in it is whether the 27.5 geometry would be a significant improvement on my one - I could prob keep the same fork as well.

They were unnamed Shimano ones, not a bad crank for the money though.