Spent enough this month I think! Though the straitlines are on [url= http://www.straitlinecomponents.com/collections/clearance-2/products/blow-out-stems?variant=18778073094 ]sale right now![/url]
Is the trigger 4 a straight 1.5 steerer?
Yes it is a straight 1.5 steerer.
I'm thinking a 50mm stem is a tad short for the large trigger, otherwise, I'd order a Straitline. If anyone upgrades their medium and has a 60mm Cannondale stem up for grabs, cheap, I might be interested. 😀
I tried a 50mm stem on the Large, it just felt too cramped and twitchy, not great on the climbs either. Found a 65mm Easton Havoc on Gumtree, brand new boxed local to me... for £10. The 65mm feels perfect, just less of a stretch than the 80mm.
I have a line on the Havoc too - but it's Orange. Not sure that works on a red/black bike.
Quick heads up for any lefty owners
Just sent mine in for the upgrade, to tuned phoned me saying the shaft is worn because I've not cleaned the lower stanchions after every ride and dirt has got under the seal
Needs new lower shaft, which they are doing on warranty.
I'll start cleaning from now on , expensive repair outside warranty apparently
I try to remember to at least wipe the stanchion off and then run oil around the seal and depress the fork after every ride, I hope that covers it....
Cheers, Steve
Thabka for the heads up. I clean mine most rides, but I thought an advantage of the upside down fork was that it was harder for dirt to find its way into the seals...
Mine gets hosed down after every ride, though I don't oil the fork leg. Should I? With what?
edit: found a 60mm Cannondale stem online to try vs my 80mm, see which I like better.
Right, so I've just about had it now with Cannondale and their stupid quirks and random specifications.
So I've had a new set of wheels built. Using a Supermax compatible hub. Is it compatible with my Supermax lefty? Is it... Grr.
[url= https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjyX4T2oI3QWBnkmpaYk3dir4uV9U9Y0rw/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/13BakFNKqsXPKehDwvXlsMtFTm_8_PEi_Hg/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gc89pBbFZadAWHGQ9RdH77eirhCoZW1n2Q/view?usp=sharing ]Photos[/url]
See the alignment photo - hub is simply too big, thus confirming it actually needs a standard hub and not the supermax one - despite defintiely being a supermax fork! How stupid is that.
So now I have to get wheel rebuilt on to a new hub. Total additional cost - £100 at least.
Seriously Cannondale. Not impressed.
According to the manual you need a different brake adapter for the Supermax hub. Does it not fit at all or is it causing caliper alignment issues?
@astormatt How are the cobalt 3 wheels? Toying with getting a pair as an upgrade to the crossroc.
Brake alignment issues mostly but also doesn't seem to fit all the way on to the stub axle. The locking bolt is then too short.
Supermax fork = Supermax hub? Yes? Or not Cannondale...?
Look at page 5 of the Supermax manual.
This thread here us where I'd ask the Q.
http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/official-lefty-thread-tech-mechanical-etc-572616-14.html
How are you getting on with this ssmith? I've done some more digging and the Supermax hub is only available in 32 hole. The stock Mavic wheels are 24 hole, therefore the stock setup is running a standard Lefty Hybrid hub and brake adaptor.
I ask because I am planning to order some wheels in a couple of weeks. I'm not sure what the benefit of the Supermax hub is, but to use it, at the very least, we need a different brake adaptor. I don't suppose your hub is fowling the adaptor and preventing it from going on?
I'm inclined to have mine built up on a Lefty Hybrid hub since that's what we have already, albeit I'll use a 32 hole variant. However, if a Supermax hub can be used simply by swapping out the brake adaptor then that's a tempting additional expense.
edit: did you screw the bolt all the way through into the hub before mounting the wheel? You need to make sure it is all the way in, then it will spin freely in place, then mate to the spindle and let it pull it on - I noticed in one of your pictures that the bold was not already in there?
Here's mine, Carbon 2.
[b]Changes from stock:[/b]
Front hub: Cannondale branded
Rear hub: DT Swiss 350 w/ 54t ratchet
Rims: Mercury X1 carbon hookless, tubeless
Tires: Hans Dampf Snakeskin 2.35 front, Nobby Nic Snakeskin 2.35 rear
Rear brake: 203mm RT86
Planned: 160mm lefty conversion at service. Maybe some vinyl on the strut.
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@ ssmith1979 why didn't you test fit the hub before building the whole wheel? Would have taken 5 minutes at most.
On oiling the stut after each ride, hell I hardly ever wash the thing. I read the lefty manual, it isn't mentioned there. The only mention they have of oil is for it to be lubricated every 100 hours by the dealer as part of their service.
I did however learn about the manual reset. It's probably about time for that.
JNM1- Why have you fitted a bigger rotor to the rear? Do you not find it has messed up the balance when braking?
Seems odd as front brakes on all car, motorbikes, mtbs are bigger than the rear
Jnm
Are you putting 160mm travel on the trigger? Have you any experience about how it will handle?
@zerolight, wheels have been great so far. Bearings are still going strong, no rim dings and are as still as true as when they arrived.
I havent ridden the larger brake yet, just put on yesterday. I was going to do 180 originally but the post has been backordered for too long so just did 203.
Almost all the trails I ride are steep downhill. I will do a 13 mile ride and get 3,000 feet of climb with no flats. That means I get 3,000 feet of down over half that at 6.5 miles, average of ~9% gradient but 15-25% is not at all uncommon. Yesterday I went somewhere 'flatter' and it was 2,500 feet in slightly more distance. While the front has a ton of stop power I can't be using it too much unless I want to go OTB. I am on the rear a lot coming down these things, more surface is just more better. It won't hurt.
Jnm1 - did you go with a Supermax hub or a regular Lefty hub? If you went Supermax, did you have to do anything other than swap out the brake adaptor?
thanks astormatt - debating between the Cobalt 3s or getting a custom build around Stans Arch Mk3.
Took mine out for a nice 35k loop today.
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@zerolight, used the lefty supermax hub, no brake adaptor or anything needed, direct fit with everything.
KH119/28
@jnm1 - man this gets more and more confusing. The Supermax manual suggests that there's only 28H in regular Lefty rather than Supermax. But that part is clearly Supermax. Then there's ssmith who believes he has a Supermax hub but it doesn't fit his Supermax. On top of that, the Cobalt 3s that astormatt is using appear to use a regular Lefty hub, which would mean a brake adaptor would be required if we were all running Supermax hubs by default. What a headache. If I want to order a set of wheels it feels like a gamble.
Buy it from cannondale experts, very good service and advice. Tell them which year and model they have and they will pick out the right hub for you.
I wouldnt look at manuals, they can be outdated for this kind of thing. As for ssmith not sure, it's possible the first iteration of supermax used the older post? AFAIK it's the post you're trying to match not what the sticker on the strut says. If he's got an older post, that's what he needs to fit. Just guessing though, but since the SMAX is the biggest if the SMAX hub was too big that's really the only way that'd happen.
Thanks JNM.
@astormatt - can you double check the width of your Lefty hub on the Cobalts, centre to centre of the two spoke flanges please? It looks like the Supermax is 60mm and the regular Lefty is 50mm. My Trigger C2 has 60mm so I am assuming I am running Supermax. There's zero info on the Cobalts anywhere. Thanks.
jnm1 - we all have 2015 triggers here - ssmith has the team. All Supermax forks, rev 1 and 2, are supposed to take both the Lefty and Supermax hub. Brake adapter aside. So it's kinda confusing. I'm assuming, like me, ssmith wanted to get a set of wheels built up online hence not trying the hub first. But it should fit anyway which is really confusing.
Jnm. I've had the same problem with my rear brake overheating on long steep loose descents. My rear brake cooks and I end up using two fingers on it and getting arm pump. Going to a larger rotor would be the ideal fix. I've felt this problem equally bad on pads with fins and without. Keep us informed when you go 160mm. All my mates have 160 and 170 bikes so I'm considering a bigger fork.
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I love the steeps
I am still confused by how it is too large, unless the post itself is a smaller version.
Since this thread is trigger happy, here's mine @ Northstar. Wife rented a bike just to come along with me and the kiddo, who is 4.5 years old here. He did great on Easy Rider twice but didn't like Tryumph, too much braking for him on that long a descent.
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After riding with them I went and did Gypsy, Flameout, then Big Trees to Flameout.
Also re: 203mm rear, here's what I am dealing with and what I mean by up or down, no flat. This is Skeggs for any NorCal riders.
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That looks like an awesome day out. My 3 year old is a wee daredevil on his balance bike. He has no interest in his islabike 14 though. He has only tried it once in 5 months. Hopefully he will get some use before he grows out of it.
His is a CNoc 16
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Semenuk, Zink, Rheeder, all Athertons, Aggy, Tyler and Cam McCaul, etc are his heros. He'll watch Rampage and Crankworx or racing if he has the chance. But that's another thread
@ssmith, this may be your issue
In this pic which I didnt see cause the link wasnt working right, but I opened by c/p it looks like you don't have the bolt inside the little external flange.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fjyX4T2oI3QWBnkmpaYk3dir4uV9U9Y0rw/view
Unscrew that outer ring cap thing, put the bolt inside, put the cap back on. I had that brain fart the first time I tried the hub and was like wtf it doesnt fit right.
jnm1 - Member
His is a CNoc 16
I got an email from Islabikes once warning me that the Cnoc 16 was not for jumping.
Yeah but he's going like a foot off the ground at best, he's not even 5 yet
@jnm1 - interesting, thanks - I'll check that and confirm tonight. If you are right (as I expect you are) it might just be that a change of brake adapter is required. Will confirm later.
I didn't trial fit the hub because I double checked it was the correct part with CSG (UK distributor for Cannondale!) before ordering from my local cannondale dealer. With hindsight, that was an error!
@Zero - I have had a handbuilt set of wheels built up around the Stans Flow MK3. DT350 hub on rear. Not ridden yet but nice looking and dead solid. When I have a front wheel I'll let you know!
@ssmith - I'm not even sure you need to change the adaptor. The more I look at the trigger setup, the more I think it's running a Supermax hub, albeit made by Mavic, with the correct adaptor on there.
Success! Well partial at least.
Now I am not being a numpty with the retaining bolt the hub fits the spindle and spins freely.
The spokes do however foul the brake caliper and it is easy to see that thr disc is out of alignment by at least 5mm, possibly more.
So hopefully all i need now is the correct brake adapter! Any ideas? (Not googled yet).
And fyi, if you do end up with the cannondale hub the retaining cap for the bolt is removed with a shimano cassette removal tool. After much swearing with pin pliers!
And so according to [url= https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=141754;menu=1000,2,15,1K17;page=124 ]this[/url] the correct brake adapter is a KH130 available from UK [url= http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/disc-brakes-c58/cannondale-supermax-27-5-brake-adaptor-p16171 ]here[/url].
Arriving soon and will report back. Hopefully nearly sorted all thanks to this thread. Thank you.
This thread delivers again! Glad it's sorted. Just for info my mavic crossmax xl's are the supermax fitting and fitted my 2015 Trigger Carbon 2 perfectly, no need to change adaptors or anything.
I was able to do mine without the tool, didn't give me any issues.
Ashy, out of interest how are you defining "supermax fitting"?
According to Mavic or another means?
Ssmith - looking again at your photos, you have a different brake adaptor than I do. I think the cheaper Mavic wheels on the Trigger C2 are of the Supermax variety but those on the Team are regular Lefty hubs. Hence JNM1 AND Ashy being able to drop on Supermax wheels without the adaptor, you needing the adaptor, and astormatt needing no adaptor for the regular Lefty Cobalts. Here's my bike, similar perspective, looks like a different adapter. Not to mention that the hub on mine is right up close to the fork like your new supermax.
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I believe my stock adaptor for the front is KH130
ssmith - make sure you put that retaining outer cap back on with some blue locktite. It's only supposed to be tightened a little, not cranked up. Mine fell off last month - fortunately on a pathway leading to the trails so I heard it ding on the ground and found it. I think it must have loosened when I removed the wheel to get it in the back of a mates car. As you say, nips up with a cassette tool.
ssmith - Looking forward to your thoughts on the Flows once you get going. They are tempting over the Arch, but I suspect they are too much wheel for my uses, and with the Arch I can re-use my 2.25/2.35 Wild Grip'R for now. Still, I could go Flow and move the 2.35 to the rear and buy a new front. 😯
Got my 60mm Cannondale stem through from R2 today to give my Large the same steering feel as the Medium. I was worried it would shorten the feel of the bike, but it doesn't at all. I think it's taken some weight off my hands which is nice, and it feels better on tight turns.
My Fire-Eye PJ-ACR flat pedals came over the weekend too, which replaced my borked Superstar Nano X. They feel and look very nice and worked great over the weekends big cycle.
Zero - your theory seems entirely plausible. Way to be certain is that there is some writing on the edge of the brake adapter. I'll get a picture of mine and post it tonight - be interesting to see yours and JHM's too as is difficult to tell from the photo you have posted.
For info - I have my 2.35 Mountain Kings inflated on the rear - and to be honest they are not discernably wider than when they were on the 22mm Mavic rims. I wouldn't be too concerned about running the 2.25 on there.
And see your point on Flow vs. Arch. Thing that sold it to me was that the MK3 is only 19g heavier, but a whole lot stronger!
I've gt an unused 180 mm disc supermax brake adaptor spare if you need to try /buy
650b
Ssmith. The bracket type is printed on the inside of the bracket. Here's mine.
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Zero: Yep - that would appear to be a KH130 Supermax to Supermax adapter. Mine is different, proving your theory that the Crossmax SLR's that come on the team were a standard lefty hub, not a supermax one.
If I knew how to post pictures I'd post a copy of the table sent by CSG that confirms various compatibility and adapters. Email in profile if you'd like me to send it to you.
Thanks for posting the pic.
@ Zero.That's exactly the same as the one on my Carbon 2. God knows why they thought it wise to mix and match across the model range. Bonkers.
Does anyone else find the stone guard rubs on the fork when it compresses?
Yep, a little bit. I found pulling more brake line through the cable tie on the guard ( so between the caliper and the cable tie) helped to hold it away from the strut leg. There looks to be a piece of material designed as a slider there anyway though?
Yes there is but seems it would be easier to make the guard a little wider.
My guard doesn't run at all. Try taking the caliper off, flipping it 360, and putting it back on. Creates a bow in the cable that pushes it clear of the rotor and it's not so tight against the guard either.
So I called my shop on the spring recall/upgrade that I just heard about. They don't handle it since there's a huge service center close enough by. They said that the center usually will do auxillary work like rebuild it in 160mm guise. So CDale pays for the tear down and new spring, I pay for whatever else is required to put it back as a 160mm shock. Waiting for the shop to get back to me but hopeful I can get out of this for cheap.
$45 to extend it to 160mm while they do the recall. Done. Will probably drop it at the shop after Saturday's ride.
No risk to the frame from the leverage of a longer fork? I've only ever bottomed out my Lefty when the bearings have needed a reset, which I now do monthly to keep it tip top. Your son gets more air than I do though!
Cant see that being a big deal, it supposedly changes it 1*.
I should learn how to do that reset. I have watched videos but it still skeeves me out opening the fork myself.
You don't need to open a Supermax to reset the bearings.
It may not be a full tear down but anytime the parts start being disassembled I take it to the shop. Brake pads and cassettes are as involved as I get, I'm expected to do something boneheaded. I once forgot to tighten the bolts on the stem on my road bike after dropping a spacer. That was fun.
Let all the air out of the fork and fully compress it. . Lift the bars and then bounce the front wheel down to the ground pushing down through the bars. Repeat until the travel indicator is 20mm (I think, check manual) from the bottom of the shaft. Re-inflate fork. You need to do it every half dozen or so rides.
Interesting, the ones I saw had a removal of the switch work and upper part of the strut. Then I found this, why are they removing the core too, is that necessary?
Or are they doing it to make it easier to hold the valve open
Ok well I just did it with a buddy's help. Definitely got it set a lot lower and it definitely feels a whole lot smoother now.
You had to dismantle the switch on earlier versions. The Supermax is a different beast entirely and was redesigned this way. See page 15 of the manual.
Glad you got it sorted. I found mine needed done once a month. I asked TFTuned if this was a fault as the manual says every 50 hours. They send every half dozen or so rides was about normal. Price to pay for sensitivity.
Welp now that it's reset and dialed in again it's making me question the whole 160mm thing. It feels nice and smooth for the full stroke again.
First ride on the 203mm rear. Not a great test ground but initial impression is it feels more smooth and better modulation, I felt I could get deeper into a section before braking and then not lock the rear, get in get out, but could just be the newness factor.
So I've spent entirely too much time researching new rims for next month. I've narrowed it down to these:
Stans Arch Mk3 - advantage, I can get a rear for £50 cheaper than the others from Merlin, on Hope hub. Would order the front from PTCycles (they have the 32 hole hub). Downside, no reviews anywhere and the consensus seems to be Stan are a little soft.
DT Swiss XM481 - seems to be the new hotness - reviews well, strong, reasonably light. Only downside, apart from the £50 premium over the Arch since Merlin don't build them, the 30mm rim might be a smidge too wide for my Wild Grip'r 2.25 Advanced, therefore necessitating a new tire too.
DT Swiss EX471 - strong, proven, well reviewed. Only 25mm feels less future proofed than the XM481. Perhaps over engineered for my needs.
I don't do big drops (only small ones :D) and I don't jump. So really, the Arch is probably fine. However there are sections of my local trail that get fast and rocky so I think the burlier XM/EX rims might be wise. I'm tempted to get the EX so I don't need to worry about tires, but I think I'll go for the XM and try the 2.25 on it.
Any thoughts? Am I over-thinking? Initially I just wanted better wheels than the Crossrocs, but quickly that spirals into best bang.
Forgot to say, I'm running a 2.35 up front and a 2.25 at the back, so it's only the back that is the immediate challenge on the XM.
Future proofed for what? The rims will always be useable, these bikes came with 19mm and people happily run them all day long with no issues. Mine are 26mm, it's just about right for 2.35. It's not like you'd tear some non boost wheels apart for a boost bike one day, just build new wheels with as wide as you want then.
It isn't just about drops and jumps it also gives a much better shape to the tire and a bed that won't collapse on itself when rolling the tire.
Kinda crappy pic but you can see how the tire doesn't muffin top out around the wide rim as much as the 19. That billowing on the narrower rim detracts from cornering. 25 imo is plenty, 30 is probably too much.
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Cheers JNM. When I said future proofed - I am kinda expecting with the rush to 30mm rims it's only a matter of time until we see new tires that really optimise their use. It's still a toss up between the EX471 and the XM481 but I think I'm going to give the XMs a go.
