Oh man those wheels look amazing. Somehow really suit the Lefty. Runs off to winstanleys...
I've fitted some offset bushing to my Trigger, but now the triangular shock 'rocker' hits against the seat tube. It happens on the return part of the suspension movement. You can also replicate it by just gently lifting the rear of the bike by the seat.
Double checked for correct installation and shock pressures etc.
Anyone else have this problem please?
Couple of questions:
What have people done to stop cable rub with the cables that go through lefty? I've wrapped them in a bit of inner tube but that's squeeking like hell.
Also a lot of tapping has started, sounds like a cable tapping away, anyone else had a similar issue?
Andy, are you sure you have them in the right way around? As it's a pull shock you want longer eye to eye rather than the conventional shorter. Think of it as slightly compressing the suspension - the shock gets a bit longer, the head angle gets a bit slacker.
I could be wrong, but as the linkage is fouling when the suspension is uncompressed, sounds like they are in upside down.
Yep, for the Dyad you need to put the bushings in the opposite way round to the diagram on the offsetbushings website.
As for the cable rub my LBS had some little silicone rubber spirals that wrap around the cables and stop wear and tapping.
@ torsoinalake, thanks for posting, I have them fitted the shorter way, will fit them the other way round and report back!
It worked! Just rotated them 180 degrees, seems to have done the trick, actually looks more laid back now, measured the BB drop and it is -10mm. thanks again
Jonny
I first shortened my cables as some were too long, especially the rear travel lever and the dropper. I also moved the rear brake over to the right of the steerer like a conventional bike. This reduced a lot of rubbing. Then I use a couple of cable ties (one looped around the Lefty, the other looped loosely around that tie and one of the cables, as a guide of sorts. I also have some helitape and some jag wire rubber cable thingies.
Clicking might be cables under BB. Make sure there is some slack. There's a cable eye on the downtube near the pivots that you can use to secure the dropper cable before it enters the frame.
Been away for a week of riding in Saalbach (fantastic place to go) and long descents meant while there needed to replace my brake pads. My Trigger 3 has Magura MT5 brakes and I could only get BBB Magura compatible pads from the shops in resort so went with them.
What have others replaced the stock pads with?
Still a clicking going on when I pedal, plenty of slack in the cables.
I had a clicking noise from the BB and cleaned out the bearing surfaces etc to sort it. Have a look on this thread page 32, near bottom of page.
http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/cannondale-trigger-bargain/page/32
Cheers mate, was the BB out of place? Or just need a good clean out?
@Hammerite, Uberbike sintered are probably the ones i will keep using. Standard magura are OK, SS kevlar always lacked bike. If you have the Magura SL rotors i would ditch them as they have big cut outs they don't have much meat for the pad to make a nice big braking surface.
BB had moved out slightly at both sides. Used a big vice to put them back in. Have a look at the photos on p.32. The bearings definitely needed a clean. Worthwhile drilling a 5mm hole in the bottom of the frame under the BB as a fair bit of water can collect in there and mix with dust/sand etc. Not good!
@astormatt - thanks for the reply. I have the stock rotors on still. What do you recommend?
More bb help please.
Trigger 4 has a bit of roughness in the bb.
I ordered the bb30 removal and install tool but the removal tool doesn't fit.
It seems to be an adaptor bearing to fit the deore crank.
What removal tool do I need and would these be a suitable replacement?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/rotor-bb30-steel-bottom-bracket-kit/rp-prod130493
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-sl-k-mtb-bb30-chainset/rp-prod129454
I plan to remove the rings and install my single 104 bcd.
Thanks
I ditched the standard BB and installed a praxis conversion. Also the standard cranks on the 4 are 96BCD rather than 104
Oh yeah they are 96bcd. I got it mixed up with my hard tail.
How do you remove the adapter? I've spent all day trying to find out.
I worked out the cups with a hammer and screwdriver, be careful as there is a ridge in the BB shell.
Bottom bracket removed.
The bb30 tool is to large for the 24 mm bearings. I tried to find one that fits without any luck.
I used a 6 inch bolt and a rubber hammer. Tapping on the lip nearest to the blue bearing seal. Alternating sides.
I've now ordered this at crc which is the same as the removed bb.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-m3-mtb-adapter/rp-prod129937
Anyone else find that the recommended pressures for the Lefty are kinda high? I'm 78kg so the recommended pressure is around 70psi. When I run that I get about 20mm of sag and a firm fork. If I drop to between 55 and 60psi I get around during 40 to 45mm as recommended.
Jonny my clicking turned out to be a pedal that needed greasing. Superstar flat pedal. Might be worth looking there. I think the SRAM BB on the carbon trigger is supposed to be pretty good.
Zerolight is it the superstar nano you've got? If so how did you get them apart I couldn't get to the nut to undo. Used Allen key to take cap off then couldn't get down to completely undo. Any help? Also has anyone got the one up components chain guide? I've seen someone on Internet who has put single ring up front on my cannondale trigger 4 but unsure which one fits? Cheers
I have the one up guide. Just fits the tab where the mech lived. Easy as pie to fit.
You will need a direct mount and fit it to the front mech adaptor. The ISCG models fit to ISCG05 whereas the trigger ISCG03/OLD
I'll check that out zero light, I've got nanos on mine too. Did you have to take them apart or just regrease the threads?
When you take the end cap off it comes out about an inch long like a tube. I filled it with grease then greased it's threads and screwed it back in. I hope the buggered one doesn't start squeaking cause that end cap is not coming out, it'll be a new pedal. But it's good so far.
Thanks for replies guys. Ashy is it this one you have http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/oneup-components-low-direct-mount-chain-guide/rp-prod148246 [url= http://http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/oneup-components-low-direct-mount-chain-guide/rp-prod148246 ]Chain guide[/url]
Swainy90, yes that's the one
Cheers ashy was it easy to fit. And how have you found it. Any good? I've just ordered it so hopefully aha
It's crap.....only joking! Don't even know it's there, very easy to fit and no dropped chains. It's a great little piece of kit
Aston - how are you getting on with the Crank Bros wheels? I'm very tempted but a little concerned with Crank Bros build quality/reliability?
ssmith- can't really comment on reliability as only had them a few weeks and done a hand full of rides.
Chap in my lbs said that they are much better than people give them credit and can take quite a bit of abuse.
A few of the guys i ride with have, or have had them and have never had a problem.
I really like the all black colour scheme...
[URL= http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160815_182419_zpschqztv40.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww44/astormatt/Mobile%20Uploads/20160815_182419_zpschqztv40.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Thanks Astor. I may well give them a go.
What brakes are you running? They don't look like the MT6 in the photo?
Also have you changed the decals on your lefty at all? Mine is different!
Thanks. Simon
Simon, mine came with the MT7 4 Pot brakes and no i haven't changed the decals on the forks.
I was expecting the MT6 brakes on mine, but i do have a cheap WTB saddle not the more expensive one that was in the spec....
Good job on the brakes - the MT6's were rubbish! First thing I changed.
Strange on the fork - it looks identical other than yours has much brighter detailing/decals than mine. Different bikes leaving the factory at different times I guess.
Just wish I could grow to love mine. At the moment the relationship is best described as 'functional'! Warranty work on fork and DYAD hasn't helped, but even when it is working it is a clicking grindy noisy and complicated beast that I'm never sure I am getting the best out of.
Maybe I'm better suited to hard tails...
PS. I too had the cheap WTB saddle! In fairness whatever it came with would have come off unless it was a Bontrager!
Got one of these if anyone wants it, £8.00 posted.
Ashy did you get any fitting instructions with the chain guide? Presume it fairly straight forward but I don't have anything aha
I think there's a video on their website, hang on
Instructions from their website
1. Select correct backplate size based on front chainring
2. Install backplate and washers onto S3 mount using size specific holes, torque bolts to 3Nm. (NOTE: If your S3 mounting bolt protrudes beyond the frame mount please ensure it will will not collide with any frame components throughout all suspension travel)
3. With crankset and chain installed, use spacer shim block to measure clearance between back plate and chain
4. Determine the corresponding number of chainline shims required
5. Assemble top guide with spacers and tighten bolt to 3Nm
Basically, mount the backplate then trial and error with spacers until the chain guide sits square over the chain, really easy and not too fiddly. Hope that helps.
Cheers ashy I've done it now way simple enough like you said. Fox dyad question for the knowledgeable people out there. Sent my dyad to mojo to be fixed as the shaft wasn't fully retracting when stationary. Sent returned and fault is fixed great stuff. Went to change from 140 to 80 travel today and and the cable just slipped and the cable is just loose so can not engage 80mm travel. Am I best fixing myself or sending back to mojo as this issue was not present before it was sent to them. Cheers
Take it you've checked the grub screw is tight?
Hi all ,
Just had to replace my sons main pivot bearings. It was creaking a bit and seemed to clunk a little if lifted slowly by frame. So just before we were due to go out for a ride we decided to investigate. Holding rear wheel and holding frame and pulling and pushing movement could be seen on main pivot.Just to note when all clamps bolts etc on main pivot are loose, the centre pin will only come out towards the drive side / Right hand side. Due to a step in the pin.
The drive side bearings were nowhere to be seen !!! just the inner and outer races left. Could not find them anywhere so not sure what happen to them.
The bearings fitted were only standard type and not full compliment ones which I have seen on most other pivot points. Not sure if that was a factor in failure in a 8 month old bike. The non drive side was ok but on way out so replaced that as well.
He rides 2-3 times a week total of 20-30 miles so not mega mileage.
I did think about trying a warranty claim but a couple of hours and some bearings seemed better option than no bike for a week or two and the hassel of taking it to bike shop etc.
So if you have any play movement in yours its worth a look.
I was hoping for a bit more life than this, as I get 12-15 months out of my Giant Trance.
Hope that makes sense !!!
Si
Has anyone replaced the headset bearings on a 27.5 alloy trigger yet?
Just replaced mine with the recommended HD169 set but the fox fork is slightly tapered out / larger at the base of the fork leaving me with a 60mm gap to fully seat the fork in the headset.
Called the bearing supplier (who is a connondale parts shop) and they said that the top bearing has a crush washer / spacer to take up the slack (agreed) but the bottom is an inerference fit and I need to encourage it in with a mallet.....it's going to take a serious whacking to get it into the headset.
Any ideas or experiences?
Thanks
Ross
Did you have to encourage the old bearing out?
Looking at the spares sites, HD169 are Lefty bearings, so are you sure you have the right set? 60mm is one hell of a gap. The bottom bearing should just slide onto the steerer and meet the crown race with no interference.
Anyone upgraded their bars to a Renthal Fatbar Carbon. I'm considering it to get a 20mm rise. Debating between the 740mm width and the 780mm. Not sure I can be bothered cutting the bars down to the fitted 760mm.
Bonus question. Would it be a downgrade to go Alu Renthal rather than Carbon when replacing my Cannondale carbon bars? Edit: seems like carbon is worth it.
@blastit.
Just replaced the main pivot bearings on my trigger 4 after 12 month's use along with the bottom bracket for the second time. What b bracket do you guys recommend because the shimano ones seem to be made from cheese.
@zerolight. Stick with carbon!! And 780 is a good width, it's what I have on mine.
I've ordered the 780 30mm. Hopefully the rise isn't too much. I have my saddle up pretty high and find a lot of weight on my hands. The stock bars appear to be 15mm from the little specs I've found online. I reckon the extra rise and reduced sweep will suit me better.
Ps: Anyone interested in my Cannondale Carbon C1 riser for their alloy trigger. Seem to be £74 new so £40 Inc paypal and myhermes? They have 400k of light riding on them and no crashes.
400k in a year? 😯
I've only had it 6 months and it shares time with my roadbike. 400km would be more appropriate. 🙂 edit. According to [url= https://www.strava.com/athletes/10470907 ]Strava[/url], 616km. And one minor crash where I wiped out on the road. My elbows and hips protected my bike though!
I'd actually read that as 400k miles. Sorry. I keep forgetting that roadies use metric...
And to think, I'm a new roadie old MTBer.
The Dark Side has you.
Just had this email about a free air spring upgrade for my lefty from Cannondale. Anyone else?
[url= http://www.cannondale.com/mandatoryservicebulletin ]link[/url]
I don't fancy posting the whole lot back to Paul's but there's a Cannondale dealer down the road. I wonder if they'll do it?
I got the same email and am wondering the same thing. My local dealer is Evans.
Mine is Allterraincycles. From the wording in the service bulletin I assume any cannondale dealer wil do it
I wonder what's up with the existing air spring. Mine feels fine, but I've always thought that it felt like it was impossible to get the full 140mm travel.
The online link says that some are prone to failure or inconsistencies. I'll call Dales in the morning. They do the Sell cannondale any more but seem to be an authorised service centre for Headshok
This is interesting, after 7 months of my Lefty being fine, yesterday 10 miles into the Ruthin Mtb Marathon, it lost all air and bottomed out, tried to re-inflate using the mechanics shock pump but it wasn't having any of it. Was pretty carp doing the last 20 miles on the bump stops. When i got back to the van, pumped up using my cannondale pump and it felt normal for about 3 pushes on the fork, then sank down to nothing.....
I'm in for the upgrade too, leisure lakes in bury are my nearest, after a year the forks due a service anyway, I'm just wondering what exactly they will replace?
Follow the link in the email. It shows you the new air assembly.
Website was down when I tried.
Working now
Yeah I've just had a look. I qualify, ringing LLB tomorrow.
[url= http://m.pinkbike.com/news/macaskill-grips-lefty-adidas-goggles-eurobike-2016.html ]Interesting link on 2spring[/url]
Thanks for the heads up.
Welcome, and thanks for that link zerolight. Assuming my local dale dealer will do the work it sounds like a good upgrade. I'll ring Allterraincycles tomorrow and update here.
Any idea where I can find a Cannondale dealer list?
There's a dealer link in the email.
Thanks. Missed that...
Well, dropped mine in at AllTerrainCycles in Wetherby, who've very kindly offered to deal with it. 7 days turnaround apparently. I'll update if I hear any more.
Well i've crashed mine, which has resulted in the fork legs twisting.........
Can't for the life of me find a suitable 1.5 steerer fork anywhere.
Anyone got any idea of what headset I'll need to run a taper?
Hi Ashy,
Alpine Bikes in Glasgow called Cannondale who told them it has to be carried out by TFTuned. They then called TFTuned who are waiting on the parts. They are expecting them to arrive from Cannondale in two weeks. So my bike will be going in to Alpine bikes in two or three weeks once TFT confirm they have the replacement bits, then the Lefty will be posted to TFT (sadly at my expense).
You should double check with ATC - you don't want to be without your bike for 3 weeks whilst they wait on parts.
My Trigger is an older one (original Lefty Supermax not 2.0) but I assume it can still take the new air spring thing? I should probably get it serviced by now, is there anyone recommended who would service it and supply & fit the upgrade at the same time?
How are you guys getting your Leftys off?
