thorpey0 - Member
where is the best place to get offset bushings and are they easy to fit on the Dyad?
Got mine from here;
http://www.offsetbushings.com/
I just put Cannondale Jekyll/DYAD in the frame/shock box when ordering and they were bang on size wise. You need a standard shock bushing tool but other than 10 minutes of a job.
Thorpey, I got mine from Offsetbushings.com Jeron is excellent. They are easy to fit knock the old ones out, push in a new sleeve the insert the bushing.
Zaskar. It's fine to extend the shock. Just empty the negative. Then the pos. Then start filling the negative. Until it's all the way out.
It says in the inductions not to put more air in the negative chamber, but it doesn't do any damage,only hampers performance.
I've never bottomed out either. It's suppose to be a very progressive shock and therefor very difficult to bottom out.
You won't see 140 or 160mm of piston. Only about 3 inches so you might not have an issue
Crazymac. Give it a try later thanks for the advise
Tempted to try the offset bushings but did you guys try playing with neg shock pressures first?
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Been a while since I posted any pics so here's mine as its looking now, with CrossMax XLs and 150mm
KS Lev dropper. Just need some new flat pedals as these are falling apart.
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I love the trigger 2. Really wish I could have spent 2 grand on one.
Here is my trigger 4. Quite a few upgrades now.
Single ring setup with sunrace mx3. Worth it
Continental mountain Kings. Worth it
125 reverb. Worth it.
Superstar tactic wheels 23 internal and 200 grams lighter a wheel. Worth it.
Carbon haven handlebar. Feels like a waste and doesn't seem to add anything.
My trails are getting really muddy now so I've just ordered a 2.35 hans dampfs.
Tried them on my mates bike today and the grip was out of this world. Actually made the steering heavy.
That looks great and good to see it muddy! Mine looks like a garage queen, but I promise it's usually muddy!
I just spotted your chain stay protector. Doesn't look stock? The original fitted one, fell off mine and my neoprene one seemed to be affecting my shifting. I need something new.
I've seen sticky back velcro but I'm not sure it would stay on with my muddy conditions?
It's a free mbuk neoprene one. Doesn't seem to affect shifting on mine!
Mine was really tight. Shock compression was pulling a bit of rear shifter cable through and putting a tight bend on the cable at the rear mech.
I've just ordered a horrible looking silver chain stay protector from qwerty. I think I'll spray paint it black.
Yes I had that exact issue at the back, think because I didn't have enough slack on the outer under the BB. Pulling a bit more through and locking it off at the cable stop under the bb helped.
I bought my T2 Carbon in March, it has not turned a wheel in anger yet. The day after it arrived we went on holiday where...my heart dropped out of sync so I havent cycled since...However, I get it sorted in a fortnight so hopefully, a day or two afterwards it'll make its maiden trip
Happy days.
How often are people having to do a bearing reset on the Lefty?
I am finding that I am losing the last 40mm of travel within 1 or 2 rides.
The bearing reset is quick and easy - but just wondering if I have an issue with my Lefty that needs looking at?
Done it once in 6 months. That doesn't sound right to me...
Good luck Dave.
Hope your back to your best soon
Crashed and managed to snap the handle off my rear maxle on my trigger 4... Anyone got any ideas for a replacement? Will any 142mm axle work from dt Swiss etc?
Thanks
Anyone looked at brake pads for the Magura MT4's yet? Am I right in thinking that with 4 pot brakes I might need 8 pads!!....
have just changed mine, I've used sintered ones from these guys on loads of my bikes.
You only need 2 pads per caliper - ie 2 lots of pads (£14ish)
Cheers Rusty, I'll give them a go.
Need your help guys. My fox dyad released an oily substance when I released the air pressure the other day, also it is not fully going back up so the shaft is showing when bike has no weight on it. Contacted mojo with no reply within two weeks. What am I best doing? Also I have lost the small o ring to gauge sag does anyone know where I can get a replacement from? Cheers in advance guys
My dyad did the same. Just boxed it up and posted it to mojo with the online waranty form. 4 days later it arrived good as new. O ring is just that an oring try a diy or car parts place prob end up with a hand full.
Crashed and managed to snap the handle off my rear maxle on my trigger 4... Anyone got any ideas for a replacement? Will any 142mm axle work from dt Swiss etc?
Yeah I replaced mine with a DT Swiss from CRC. Make sure you get the one for Syntace X2
If anyone is getting a creaking & cracking noise whilst pedalling under load try your rear axle; my Jekyll starts to get noisy after about 3 rides - you can't really see or feel that it's loose but undoing the QR lever and nipping the axle up a teenth of a turn always fixes this for me. It's almost like it could do with knurling on the hub ends instead of just smooth alloy.
Also, did anyone get anything more than tubeless valves in the box, such as rim strips etc? Or are the rim strips fitted to wtb i23 supposed to be tubeless ready?
Did you contact pauls cycles or anything first or ring mojo? Or did you just send it using the warranty form?
The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn't great.
The same happened to my dyad. I phoned them first and they recommended i do it online. They were very good to deal with.
They didn't do very well at replying to my email lol. I can't find the form on there website just wanted to see what info needs to be filled out like. Is the little o ring something that I can ask them for a replacement also?
The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn't great.
Yes that what made me think it isn't the right tape - the valve hole was a X cut into the tape and the innertube valve shoved through. The trouble is the X is too big so once I fitted the tubeless valve all my stans has pissed out again.
Oh oh, looks like my shock is losing negative air pressure-not a huge amount but I had an inkling it was and checked today before Stiniog tomorrow.
The initial love in with this bike has really worn off.
https://service.mojo.co.uk/login.aspx
Register here. Then book a service job.
Fill in the form and tick the box for warranty.
It will give you an address to send it to.
Put something to prove you bought the bike. I printed off an email from Paul cycles.
Thanks a lot crazy Mac your a legend. Am I best ringing mojo just to explain the issue I have had? When they have it do they give you a ring to let you know what if anything is wrong with is and what they have replaced?
You could phone them for piece of mind but I wouldn't bother. It will be fixed under warranty as that fault seems pretty common.
They send an email when it arrives and give an estimate of when it will be ready. Then they email when it's been sent back. You can track it.
Mine has been to them twice. It was out of my possession for 7 days both times. Nothing to worry about.
The quicker you send the quicker your back on the bike ?
[The rim tape is already applied. Finally went tubeless last weekend but had to re tape 1 wheel as the tape around the valve wasn't great.
Yes that what made me think it isn't the right tape - the valve hole was a X cut into the tape and the innertube valve shoved through. The trouble is the X is too big so once I fitted the tubeless valve all my stans has pissed out again.]
Mine held for 1 ride and developed a leak.... it waited until I'd loaded the bike onto the roof mounted carrier before leaking fluid all over the car roof and windscreen, made a right mess. After reading applying the tape it's been fine.
Cheers dude. Is the postage pre paid or have to pay for it?
rubbish cable route and lack of factory fit downtube guard (although Cannondale make one for the carbon model) - Antur Stiniog rock strike.
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I use a piece of old tyre as a downtube protector, it works pretty well
Well that's it. My work here is done. With the addition of a 150mm Reverb and offset bushings I have changed everything except the frame, fork, shock and cranks.
Soon be time for Paul's to start knocking out this years bargains.
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V nice Jekyll upgrade(s), if you don't mind me how much did you spend on the wheelset?
A month ago I posted: the wheels cost $1010 inc postage and at the time that was £690. The exchange rate will no doubt have changed since. The tyres now feel totally planted and the worries about the hookless rims vanished the second I rode it.
Rims are the 30mm internals.
Missed out on these bargains last year, can't wait to see what can be had this year.
How does it go with the offset bushes? BB a bit low?
No idea Yet. I'm just getting ready to ride this afternoon. Nowhere rad but it's ready for next weekend down Weymouth way.
It's lower but not too low now. Feels different and I'm looking forward to ragging it round the quarries.
How does it go with the offset bushes? BB a bit low?
As stock the Jekyll is a good trail bike but not good enough as a mini DH/Enduro bike, the offsets improve it no end.
Not sure what the BB height/drop is as standard but it deffo feels a minus amount with offsets.
Going to convert my Trigger to 1 x 10 can anyone tell me the name of the doodad I need to attach my brake lever to the handlebar when I remove the shifter please?
Shifter comes off the brake lever on the shimano xt. Brake lever works fine.
Crazymac or anyone else that can help with the fox dyad return got a couple of questions. Is the returns a pre paid postage or is something that you have to pay yourself? When sending the rear shock do you send the cable and lever all attached or take them off and only send the shock? Also when shock is removed is there a way to stop the pivot section from cluncking off other sections of the bike. Hard to explain as I'm a bit of a novice but someone who has removed the rear shock will understand what happens to the pivot section. Cheers in advance
Pay to send shock gets returned free. Just the shock no need to send lever. Carbon frame stays up unless you put weight on it due to the bendy stay design. Aloy will drop to the bottom just wedge a chunk of tyre in behind the linkage to stop it clanking the seat tube.
thanks parksie i should have looked closer!!
Pay to send it however you like. It gets returned recorded delivery.
I left my cable and remote attached. I mentioned the outer was worn and they replaced it free of charge.
I removed my dyad on the stand. Then lowered it slowly to the bottom and left it like that.
I did consider having a mate make me a piece of aluminium the size of the dyad and riding it as a hard tail but thought better of it.
Aha you would of got some looks aha. My cable has worn so I might also mention it and I've lost the o ring so hopefully they will sort me out too. Did you just leave a little note in the box you sent it in? Cheers again though mate
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Cracking morning here today
http://www.highlandwildcat.com
I wrote it in the notes on the online request.
BB seems significantly lower. Needs a bit of a tweak on the shock neg pressure but no real surprise there. Felt good flying down Corkscrew on the Ridgeway yesterday. Hardly a real test. That come from thursday onwards
Rode my trigger on yesterday's Ard Rock Enduro..... the bike made me look better than I am and was pretty much faultless apart from an issue with the chain.
Crazymac I've filled out the form was easy enough wrote in comments everything that is wrong with the shock. My only question to you now is how do they know when they get my shock that it's mine? Do you just leave a note in there with your name contact number ect? Also did you send the bolts that attached the shock to you frame? Cheers again mate hopefully get this send tomorrow. Who did you use for currier also?
Such a versatile bike. Set the travel to 90mm, load it up snd off you go!
[img][url= https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8600/28823855862_23b985c97b_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8600/28823855862_23b985c97b_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/KV4N97 ]20160806_131330[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/61927534@N03/ ]Ashcroftc83[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Nice work. I've got a Trigger 29er 1 and that is a superb mile muncher.
Ashy that's a nice alternative to mudguards. 🙂
I went for a nice 35k loop around Dumgoyne. Face and ass were covered in mud. The good news was the creak when climbing was cured by greasing the left Superstar pedal through the spindle cap. Can't bring myself to get one of those silly whale tail rear mudguards and not too keen on the big mx style front guards either. Shame those little flex plastic enduroguard thingies do the fit the Lefty.
Could you adapt one with a bit of wire to form the arch?
It would probably flop up and down against the tyre every time you hit a bump. I might just try an old skool crud catcher.
Thinking about it properly it wouldn't work anyway, as the guard would need mounting to the upper leg and the wheel would hit it!
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My latest chain stay protector. I think its going to be good. The back was super sticky and I can't imagine it moving anytime soon.
30mm velcro. Cheap as chips on ebay.
Anyone fitted a zefal downtube protector to their Trigger carbon to protect from rock strikes. Looks like it might be good?
It's pretty ugly, but at least it's removable. Might be something you could take on and off depending on where you're riding.
Im tempted to try this one [url= http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/trek-remedy-29-2014-carbon-armour-kit-p12605 ]Link[/url]
Can't see how you could fit that. Even cutting the wee knobs off so that the inner surface is smooth, it has to sit atop cables.
I'd planned to cut it out to fit under the cables. Kind of irrelevant now as everywhere out of stock.
I think you need to drive over to rockguardz for then benefit of this thread.
If I didn't live in North Yorkshire I would! There must be someone more local.
I'm in Glasgow. So no use.
A bit of old tyre cable tied to the downtub will do the job.
But looks horrible and is heavy! 😉
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Another big day out. Had some rocks bounce up and hit something. No sign of damage so guessing they hit the cranks or chain ring. Totally love my bike but sometimes feel like I'm slightly under biked on natural rock gardens.
I'd say it's perfect for 95% of my rides.
Would the Jekyll have been perfect or would it make me feel over biked for 95%
Anyone got access to both?
I do miss my old reign x0 with 170mm travel and the ability to smash through rocks, but the reality of my riding means that the Trigger is FAR quicker overall. I almost bought a Jekyll as well as my trigger, but luckily common sense prevailed!
Here's a few updated pics of my trigger. Excellent bike, really happy with it, things i have changed so far are, replaced the standard Mavic SLR wheels to the Crank Brothers Cobalt's, fitted some 800mm Joystick Analog bars to replace the standard 740mm and changed the grips.
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Stunner Astor.
I went for the trigger 4 because I wanted the durability of aluminium frame. Stiffness of the standard 32mm forks and reliably of the slx brakes.
My Trigger 29er can handle easily 90% percent of what my
Jekyll Carbon 2 does. That is down to me not pushing myself enough. I would really miss the Jekyll though. There is just something about it and it is very comforting on the sillier stuff. Sadly I can't justify both (and a Fatty Trail, and the Bad Boy)so the Trigger will be getting a polish and put up for sale.
@astormat: Nice looking bike. Love the Crank Bros wheels. Where did you get them from?
@Eddie, I picked up the wheels from winstanleys. I thought they were a bit of a bargain @£299, my Mavics have developed a bit of a wobble so i bought these to use while the Mavics go away for warranty work.
