Cheers Chris, will order one asap
Superstar do loads of variations.
Went tubeless tonight. Surprisingly easy. Orange seal and and about 10 mins effort. Sore thumbs. Pumped up no bother with my Joe blow track pump. Leaving them overnight at 40 psi. If they stay up I'll drop them to 27/29 F/R.
Was surprised there's no rim tape on there. I gather mavic use some sort of insert?
Unrelated - is there a frame guard that fits under the down tube on the trigger carbon?
@ zerolight. Good work on the tubeless setup! Re. Downtube protection. Ive not found anything specific that fits. Dont fancy a cut up tyre so only other option seems to be rockguardz carbon, but they only do one for the 29er Trigger. I ordered one as a gamble and unfortunately it doesnt fit the 27.5 Trigger. What we need is someone on thos thread who is able to drop their bike off woth Rockguardz to make a mold...
What did everyone use as cover plate for the front mech when going 1 x 11.
I ordered one of superstar components but there square and don't fit.
Any ideas?
I haven't bothered covering anything.. the direct mount covers are usually used as a HDM (mount) is usually a bit exposed with sharp (ish) edges that could catch on things, the one on the trigger is recessed & whatnot..
Anybody know what the right mech hanger is for the trigger carbon 2? I've had a search but can't find anything conclusive.
Chris
Thanks very much! Out of stock though.. In other news, I've ordered a set of the CrossMax Xl Pro wheels and tyres. Should be here tomorrow, so will update with pictures then. Exciting!!!!!!
hi folks. My mate bought one of these and being an idiot let all the oil out his shock. Assume not atall fixable at home? Mojo qoting 140 quid!
Can another shock be run with this frame, ie an rp2?
ta
How did he manage to let all the oil out????
The DYAD is a Trigger specific pull-shock. I think he's going to have to pay the £140.
because he a moron...think he unscrewed what he thought was the air valve and oil sprayed everywhere....
Only reason I asked if Is I released the air out of one of the chambers can't remember which one it's supposed to be and a like milky oil sprayed out. I did message a suspension specialist and said not to worry. Depends how much came out I guess though
My shock spat oil out of the negative side when the shock was poorly. Was it that your friend did if so it may be warranty like mine was. If hes opened the big allen bolt in the moddle of the shock whoopsy that would spray alot of oil very quick if the shock was pressurised.
Supermax Hubs are back in stock [url= http://www.cannondalespares.com ]here[/url] with free postage..
Thanks, but ended up buying the CrossMax XL's and lovely they are too. I've also just ordered a 150mm KS Lev integra dropper and foolishly didn't check whether it will actually fit lengthwise. Does anyone know the max length of seat post you can fit in a medium trigger carbon?
I have a 150mm lev in mine & it's grand.
Woohoo! Do you have much of the post showing out of the frame? I have about 4cm stuck out with my 100mm drop, hence going for the 150mm drop, with the intention of running the post flush with the seat post clamp? Do you have any piccies?
If either of you with the Lev Integra 150mm could measure from the bottom of the collar to the seat rails at fully compressed it'd be much appreciated. Online it seems to vary between 50mm and 57mm quoted. I'm running 195mm height on a 125 reverb and could push it to 200mm to fit the 150mm Lev, but I think 207mm might be pushing it a bit far...
I have 3cm between the bottom of the collar & the seat clamp with my 150mm lev. With the 100mm one I was on the min- insert mark. On a medium frame.
Will the 150mm lev push all the way into the frame?
I'm on a large Jekyll, from the dimensions I can find online the integra should just about go all the way in. The issue is really how high that then makes it at full extension.
Well, its too late now. Its been despatched...We'll see how it goes.
Anyone Interested in a American classic lefty hub built on to a flow EX rim? Its the standard lefty hub (not supermax) and has a brake adapter so it can be used with the supermax lefty. Nothing wrong with it, I'm just a touch obsessive about the details & so am getting a new flow rim built onto a supermax hub.
That's a great level of pedantry, hats off to you! My 150mm dropper KS Lev came today and I can confirm that it fits perfectly in my medium trigger 2 carbon. It fits with the collar flush to the seatpost clamp on the frame and at full extension is in the same position as I was running the 100mm dropper at full extension. So I've got the full 50mm benefit of thr additional drop.Result!
Oh and the CrossMax XL Wheels/ tyre set are excellent too. Much stiffer than the crossrocs.
Fitted offset shock bushes to my Jekyll tonight - will report back.
Parkesie mine did the same when released air out of negative chamber. How did you go about going through warranty. Did you just email mojo? For anyone else that has also sent the rear shock off and knows the procedure let me know please cheers
Filled in the online form, printed boxed up shock and posted it. Arrived fixed and ready to go 4 days later. It's just done a alps trip without a problem so job done.
My mate just heard back from Mojo. Despite telling them what he had done they've sorted it under warrenty. Great gesture from them I think.
Hey crazy my shock had everything yours had in 1 visit. Its had a good work out since and is performing like new still.
Question for tubeless carbon 2 owners. When you insert the valves into the crossroc rims (which have that little olive in place that protrudes through the rim, are you also supposed to use the rubber o-ring, or does that olive supersede it?
I didn't use the ring. Have looked at youtube vids, I decided to pop the ring on there, but it seems to me that it interferes with the olive so I reckon I should remove the ring again. Thoughts?
I think I used it. Never had any leakage...
Think i fitted it under the lock ring just so it dosnt scratch the rim. Wont keep air in but keeps water and shit out of the rim.
Cheers. Maybe I'll put them back on.
Ooops, I appear to have just ordered a carbon team trigger.
Quick Q - is there any issue fitting a flat bar? Would it interfere with the lefty crown?
I'd think it would be fine unless you fitted a shorter stem aswell.
Guys I just noticed the spacers under my stem on my Lefty are a little loose. No rattle but I can spin them with my fingers. I assume this is because there's no compression nut on this type of fork and is no big deal.??
No big deal on mine.
No big deal as it's a triple clamp.
Mine spin too. As do everyone's I think. If it bothers you, loosen the stem bolts and push down on the stem as you retighten them.
Cheers. Just checking with the experts on here. 🙂
Has anyone else started suffering from the lefty wheel wobble yet?
Lbs have fitted a shim that Cannondale recommend but it is back after 3 miles of riding!...
Lefty wheel wobble?
As in bearing play? I overtightend one ages ago and that killed the bearings. New bearings and not hanging off the Allen key sorted it.
Mine has developed play in the front hub. Apparently it is quite common and c'dale sell shims to remove the play.
If I remove the front wheel and put it back on, it's fine for a couple of miles then the play comes back.
Just [i]what[/i] are the benefits of a Lefty again? 😉
They're the only fork I've never bothered to service and had no problems with.
I've just ordered the Trigger 2 from Paul's Cycles (in fact looks like I may have got the last one - as it's since disappeared from the website) - and as this seems to be THE place for Trigger questions, I thought I'd come out of hiding and post.
I've gone with a 'Large'. This size seems to come with a rather long (80mm?) stem, which is probably the first thing I'd like to swap out. Is there anywhere I can pick-up a shorter Cannondale stem?
I did check some of the Cannondale spares places (Querty) - but C'dale stems seem a little thin on the ground.
Thanks in advance for the help.
My trigger 4 fork float 32 evolution ctd seems to be misbehaving. It's making a sucking noise on the rebound and it's also become easy to push through the climb mode blowout.
Would these things be a warranty repair or a service?
Thanks for any advice
Also want a shorter stem for mine, not many 1.5 steerers around.
Found this one but it is expensive/ugly:
chainreactioncycles.com/controltech-fx-1-5-stem/rp-prod51167
anything better?
A few have gone with Thomson Elite X4s I think.
Got a 45mm Thomson on mine sold the old one for 23..
60mm Easton Havoc stem on my XL Trigger 4
I have a 50mm Easton Havoc 1.5" that needs a new home ..... Email in profile 😉
Thanks, decided to go with the Thomson!
Well my Trigger Team turned up yesterday, and I must say it's a pretty scary beast. Not had a chance to ride it other than up and down the road, but it's waaaay more bike than the TNT Turner Flux it is replacing. I hope I can do it justice.
Few more questions for y'all. The Lefty lockout stiffens the fork up, but doesn't lock out completely. Should it?
Has anyone else had what I suspect is a creaky rear Mavic SLR wheel? I'm hoping it's just the spokes bedding in, it seems to be getting better. I'd rather that than a snappy carbon rear end as earlier in the thread.
Oh, and is it possible to remove the front mech direct-mount? It's bolted on, but looks like it could be part of the pivot assembly?
I love my Trigger 3. My biggest gripe is the cable routing under the BB, cable hanging down and it looks a mess. I see there is a small grommet in the seat tube, can this be used for internal routing of some of the cables? Has anyone done it?
The seat tube grommet is for and internal dropper, it joins up with another under the lower shock mount and exits by the head tube.
@ Kaysee. Can't help with the creaky wheel, but the Lefty lockout isn't a full lockout, so yours is working as it should.
Edit. As for the front mech mount, leave it on and fit the OneUp direct mount chain device. Cheap, very light and works a treat.
Routed my dropper internally, certainly much neater. Agree about the cables Routed under the BB. I've got some pretty nasty cable rub in that area too.
Happy with cable rub but it just looks gash! 3 cables hanging an inch under the BB. Was re-routing the dropper to internal easy or do you have a different (stealth?) dropper?
Is anyone having trouble with the trigger 3 dropper leaking...?
Not noticed the dropper leaking, but the remote snapped off in my hand last week - well the cable had snapped. It had been starting to get a little tight. On inspection the cable inner was as dry as a bone near the seat post and it had also come out of the guideline.
Last night's ride was cut short when I noticed I had very little travel up front on my Lefty. Bottomed out 40mm or more before the end result of the shaft with a clunk. I hoped all it needed was a bearing reset. The long ride home felt a little off as I was aware of a lack of damping and travel was short and soft.
It was the bearings. 5 min job and back to normal. Spent more time setting the sag than fixing the issue. Only dud about 500km which was less than I expected before needing the reset. On hindsight it probably needed it sooner. Might do it every couple months.
I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it's coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there's more effort through the pedals. The carbon models have SRAM BBC which are supposed to be pretty good so hopefully not that failing. Pedals are Superstar Nano X.
Could be the lower pivot bearings, they are not particularly well sealed and in a prime position to collect mud.
I can bounce around manically with no noise so it's not bearings or shock.
its not the sag indicator on the shock is it?
I also noticed a strange clicking, tapping sound when pedalling under load. Similar to the cracking sound of a slightly loose saddle. Sounds like it's coming from the cranks, BB, or thereabouts. Any ideas. Does it seated or standing and only on inclines where there's more effort through the pedals.
Let me know if you fix this, is sounds similar to my noise, which so far I've put down to the spokes settling in. First 'proper' ride tomorrow so will see if it goes away.
Probably not this but I had a creak, so removed the rear shock, still creaked, was the brake hose rubbing under the BB!
Also, had a rock cut the rear brake hose just after setting off at the top of Walnar Scar.
I made sure my cables were clear on the frame already so I don't think it's that. Also long since removed the sag indicator. Checked and the cranks seem tight. I noticed that the end cap on my pedals were a little loose, especially the drive side. It's too wet to see if that was the problem, and I'm about to drive to France leaving the MTB in the garage. I guess I'll report back in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the suggestions. I did also cable tie my dropper cable to the little boss on the tube just below where it goes into the frame. Odd that it only happens under power though. Seems like a BB, crank, pedal, or chairing issue. Happens on either chain ring which would seem to rule that out.
Took the stickers off my Crossroc wheels today, looks much better IMHO..Too gaudy by half..
Might take the stickers off mine theyre getting tatty and peeling where theyve taken scrapes.
I like gaudy.
RustyNissanPrairie - Member
Fitted offset shock bushes to my Jekyll tonight - will report back.
I wasnt loving my Jekyll after the initial new bike love wore off, it was pushing the front a lot on loose fast corners with no sign of the back breaking free (tyres are now 2.3 DHF & HR2), it also still felt a bit 'flippy floppy' into corners as though once you started leaning in it then fell over into the corner. I was also not nearly catching my pedals enough compared to previous bikes which isnt a good sign.
Ordered a set of brass offset bushes and also dropped the sag to 40% rather than 35ish (centre of the white area on the indicator)
Has made a huger difference - the BB is sitting lower which has stopped the flopping feeling and the both tyres now break traction at the same point. Its also more stable at speed through rock gardens.
All in all worth doing.
Pretty much the same with the trigger once you have fitted offset bushings.
where is the best place to get offset bushings and are they easy to fit on the Dyad?
Hi all.
My dyad. Still Seems very stiff, been through all different pressures but still the shaft doesn't ever bottom out only ever see about 2" of the shaft.
Could it be stuck.
I was thinking if I empty all the air pressure out would this show if the shaft is somehow stuck in the chamber. I presume then it should move freely showing all the travel it is supposed to have.
Or would this just totally fu**k it up??