I have the Reverb Stealth 150mm (420mm) and have about 80mm still out of the large frame.
Stealth routing was fairly easy to fit, no bleeding involved with the Thingamajig, and the hose was easy to trim. Shock and crank had to be removed to route the cable but this was easy. A fair bit of water came out when I removed the crank(!) so took the opportunity to drill a 5mm hole at the bottom of the BB casing for a drain hole.
Only thing to mention is check the pressure as it needs to be 250psi and wasn't out of the box, also don't overtighten your seatpost clamp.
Other than all that it is absolutely the best thing I've ever bought.
crazmac I don't understand if you are putting the dropper trigger on the left why are you ordering the RH version? I see you can buy the stealth for 209 at winstanleys. Looking at the pictures is the down routing of the cable included in the 380mm length? Would really like to here from someone who has actually fitted a stealth! What are picks?
A set of little hooks to pull hose out of the frame, having them meant I didn't have to take the cranks off.
The RH remote sits on top off the bar. Or you can turn it upside down and put it under on the left. I feel like it would be more comfortable under the bar.
So I am unsure weather to buy right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?
Buy the right hand model and mount it under the bars on the left handside
So I am unsure if I should buy a right or left rockshox reverb stealth. There appears to be an internal cable exit on the right. So it seems logical to go for the right but the trigger for the back shock sits on the right handle bar. What do people suggest?
The rear shock switch sits nicely under the bars on the left hand side. That is how I have mine set up. Although probably won't work that way if you are running a front shifter.
I moved the rear shock lever to the left bar as it is reversible, and got a left reverb on there too as no front shifter. I bought a CTD remote for the forks on the right hand side.
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Hi all. Just picked myself up one of these off ebay, seems a cracking idea.
Has anyone serviced the pivot bearings in an aluminium trigger yet? Is it difficult? any special tools required?
I did wonder about using one of the dual CTD remotes like on the Scotts for the front and rear shocks. But swapping out to the Pikes so that is out.
I have enough levers already, mostly I leave the forks in trail mode.
Looks like a great setup trickyd. Has anyone considered upgrading the front fork on the trigger 4. I've read about upgrading to the fit 2016 damper cartridge. I think it's great as it is but it gives more damping options for those who like to fiddle.
Anyone tried running the 2 speed front shifter as a shock remot yet? Seems like a good idea as my dad remote can be quite stiff! I know you can supposedly use a grip shift, but I'm going 1x10 this weekend and thought I may as well have s pop with the x7 trigger....
Jonnytheleyther the idea of the cable holder is great, the reality is very different. Had one and it lasted a few weeks, now have a speed stuff neoprene Velcro wrapthing designed for DH forks to protect from cable rub and it's a much better solution.
Just thinking of going 1x10 on my carbon 2, what chainring type do I need? Any suggestions? thinking of a 32t one and looked at absolute black, works, superstar and race face but just got confused.
Also heard getting the crank off is tough, any suggestions or tips?
Cheers
Liam
The cranks on my Carbon 2 were on really tight. It took loads of force to get the bolt to move, you will need more than a normal Allen key to remove them - but they do come off.
I think I have a 30t Works direct mount ring on mine. From memory you need the GXP version rather than the BB30 version.
Thanks Jason, I thought I read elsewhere on the thread that it was a GXP but I was confused because the current chainring say 104BCD? Am I just getting confused is there a GXP 104 BCD i thought they were two different things?
The best way to do it is to remove the spider that holds the chain rings in place. On the Sram cranks the spider is held on by three torq screws on the back. Then a direct mount chain ring fits in it's place, so no need to worry about BCD.
So one of these : http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-sram-gxp-fitment-narrow-wide-spiderless-chainring-963-p.asp
Awesome thanks a lot for that, think I'll go for the red one, cheers
Managed to install the reverb stealth in the trigger 4 last night.
I removed the remote on the reverb.
Removed the grommets at the bottom of the seat tube and the front of the down tube. I couldn't get the grommet from under the shock.
Fed the hose down the seat tube and used a small Allen key to hook the hose and pull it out.
Used a pair of long nose pliers to push the hose into the grommet under the shock and fed it with the pliers until it reached the hole in the down tube. Again used the Allen key to fish out the hose.
Remember to put the grommets back on our like me you'll be fishing for the hose a few more times.
I used this bleeding technique and it worked no bother.
I bought the 31.6. 380mm 125mm drop version
I'm 5 foot 8 and use 180mm exposed seatpost at pull height.
Hey folks. I've been lurking in this thread for a bit. I've now just ordered the Trigger Carbon 2. Excited. I understand the tyres are great. What's the latest consensus on replacements? Wildgrip R2?
Personal preference really but ive stuck some high roller 2 on mine and cant grumble.
I put some XR4's on my Trigger 2
I have wild rock r2 on my trigger, great tyres, really impressed with them.
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Good cycle today. Even took a Kom
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Cheers. I went ahead and ordered the wild gripr 2 advanced. 2.25 and 2.35.
I have the Michelin Wild Grip R2 Advanced in 2.25 and 2.35.
Brilliant tyres, changed the bike completely. Very sure footed.
I'm running purgatorys on mine. Feels slightly wrong running Specialized tyres on a Cannondale but they're excellent. Had my 1st proper ride on mine today. Absolutely phenomenal bike but slightly annoyed that the crank arm managed to work its way loose. Tightened it back up so hoping it's not knackered the interface. As someone else said earlier in the thread, worth checking ALL the bolts have been done up properly.....
I'm running Vittoria Barzos. I like them a lot.
Time for a new bottom bracket on my Trigger 4. First bike with a press fit 30. Any suggestions? Are ceramic BB worth the £?
Thanks in advance
Any chance of a wee how to with some pics when you get round to it fedor? I've never done one.
Thanks
My Trigger 2 Carbon arrived today. Very pleased. Spent a good while setting it up and fixing a leaking front brake so have only ridden it to the end of the street and back. But it feels awesome and responsive. Still waiting on tyres. And the front brake seems like it could use another bleed. Looking forwards to the weekend!
Anyone using a mudguard to keep crap off their face. I'd prefer something low profile like the enduro guard, but that won't work with a lefty. Don't really want a Moto style guard. Anyone using a crud catcher under frame and finding it effective?
I'm using one of these. No use for a lefty though. Works well and cheap. Mucky Nutz Face Front Fender - Black/Blue https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PKBQGX4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_kt13wb0QG1R92
Yeah, I have the EnduroGuard on my Superlight - exactly the same design.Pitty they haven't come up with something similar that's Lefty friendly.
Thought I'd give this a punt from Decathlon. Looks good and works.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/flash-mtb-front-mudguard-bk-id_8327776.html
Took it out for the first proper run today. It was a lot of fun, even with the stock tyres. Found the suspension a little firm at one step below the recommended settings - have moved to two steps below which is probably getting me better sag anyway. Will see what happens next ride.
@tricky - I bought and fitted a couple of those, they are quite a bit stiffer than MuckyNutz but seem to do the job well enough, they are also bigger than MN.
What size bars came with yours? Mine turned up with 800mm bars even though the spec sheet says 760mm. Not complaining as I like them, but curious.
finally happy now I've dialled it in;
Bashguard for the older Jekylls (Cannondale don't do one to fit the 2015 models) - had to cut 4 slots for it to fit over the cable guides.
[url= http://s8.postimg.org/64c40y7np/WP_20160312_17_07_29_Pro.jp g" target="_blank">http://s8.postimg.org/64c40y7np/WP_20160312_17_07_29_Pro.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Running the travel adjust cable externally as it gives a less angled bend coming up into the shock for easier/better feel.
Also ran the dropper cable through a piece of black PU airline tubing that is cable tied onto the dropper cable guides. Allows smoother action without rubbing the frame anywhere.
Cables shortened, Middleburn oilers fitted, SRAM scuff things and Jagwire do-dah things (I hate cable rubbage!)
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203mm disc from bikediscount.de
[url= http://s8.postimg.org/5u4lhlt1h/WP_20160312_17_13_39_Pro.jp g" target="_blank">http://s8.postimg.org/5u4lhlt1h/WP_20160312_17_13_39_Pro.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Raceface NW direct mount 32t
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Trusty Shimano fitted - (the X9 clutch was useless and I really missed the double downshift of Saint/XT shifters), Zee, XT cassette, Saint shifter.
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Well today's ride was cut short when the X-Fusion Hilo that came with the Trigger, did what X-Fusion Hilo's do, and for no apparent reason whatsoever, and without warning, just spaffed it's guts up all over itself. It managed a handful of rides, which given my terminally low expectations of their utterly shite products, even managed to surprise me. It's quite staggering just how outstandingly crap they are.
Given the fact that I've had previous experience with their truly hopeless customer 'service' already, and have absolutely no wish to repeat that utterly spirit-crushing experience, I'm not even going to bother with trying to make a warranty claim. I'm just going to throw it in a pond.
So what's everyone running then? Reverbs I presume? Are they easy enough to fit? No issue with the routing? Anyone running Owt else?
I have a reverb on mine, think i really made a meal of the routing and had to remove the forks to get the hose out of the frame.
Reverb stealth here, really easy to route internally.
I had a great ride on my new Trigger on Sunday. Total blast going down and fun everywhere else. My only issue, my right thumb is aching from shifting the travel adjust lever so much. Any way to relieve that tension a bit?
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Every time this thread pops up it reminds me that dbcooper left the forum following a bit of a scrappy thread she started. And it makes me a bit sad.
I put me wear stickers on my fork and down tube on Sunday before a great 17 mile cycle. I got home and they had both worn through. Is there a better quality type I should be using?
I figured why my bars were 800mm. The shop built up my bike with the right hand brake and shifter 40mm to far to the right and half the grip hanging off the bar making it seem wider! 🙂
crazymac680:
I've started using Gorilla Tape in their handy roll size, £2.87. I bought it to ghetto my tubeless wheels as the yellow stuff in there already is crap and leaking air... anyway this tape is brilliant at preventing rub marks too.
@Zerolight-Did you ride it like that then?!
Ashy, I did ride it with the grip half off the bar! Shocking! It's all good now.
I was feeling quite proud of myself for shortening the brake hoses, shock and dropper cables, and getting it all neat. Then I rode it and realised I got brake fluid on the rear rotor and pads. Squeal and crap stopping power. So mad at myself. Looks good though.
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1449/25858804685_6ec7ffd29d_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1449/25858804685_6ec7ffd29d_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Fp48J6 ]Trigger Carbon 2[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/7753200@N06/ ]graham_dorrian[/url], on Flickr
Well I fixed my brake issue by cleaning the rotor with lighter fluid and baking the pads in the oven for a while. I did have a heart in mouth moment with the rear calliper when mounting it back onto the adaptor - crossed a thread, it's like it's made of cheese. Managed to correct it eventually but will probably buy another adaptor to be safe.
Things I've learned this week:
- The rear calliper adaptor mount is made of cheese. Take care with it.
- The KS Lev Remote is easily broken - if you tighten it up too much, not all that tight, then loosen it to move it, a nut turns with the screw and shears the plastic bracket at the back so you can't mount it again. Pauls sent me a new one, but I think I want to buy a sturdy metal one some time.
- Shortening the hoses and cables for both the seatpost and rear shock is a doddle and seems to make them easier to actuate.
I really like the Odi Rogues on this bike. The stock grips are too narrow.
[url= https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/25737891212_7389f39a97_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/25737891212_7389f39a97_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Fdnqn3 ]Trigger Carbon 2[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/7753200@N06/ ]graham_dorrian[/url], on Flickr
Finally got round to finishing tweaking the Jekyll Carbon 2 I bought on the back of this thread. I had it a week before buying a secondhand Fatty and it has been hardly ridden. Anyway now it has Nobby Nics, XT 1x11and Hope Tech 3 V4 brakes and Hope 183mm rotors.
The guys at Rides On Air have it today to shorten the rear brake hose as I didn't fancy buying DOT5.1 just for one brake.
Really looking forward to getting out over the weekend.
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Very nice Eddie
The original BB has now died, luckily I have a new Hope one sitting at home to fit.
@ zerolight- did it nor feel funny having one side longer than the other?! Haha!
Just remembered, fitted an Absolute Black 32t oval NW as well. Happy days.
Eddie, your bike done a wee
Eddie, your bike done a wee (double post, but it does look like it's done 2...)
Wouldn't you have a little sex wee with shiny matching V4 brakes? I did.
My only issue, my right thumb is aching from shifting the travel adjust lever so much. Any way to relieve that tension a bit?
Jerome Clementz uses a grip shift to actuate his on his EWS Jekyll. Planet X have an x0 one for 15 quid at the minute:
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/GLSRX0GS/sram-x0-grip-shift-gear-lever-with-lock-on-grip
I've just ordered one for my Jekyll 4.
My only issue, my right thumb is aching from shifting the travel adjust lever so much. Any way to relieve that tension a bit?
My aluminium Jekyll originally ran the cable internally through the frame - I changed it to external which gave a better bend leading up into the shock, I also added a Middleburn cable oiler and gave it a good lube. Both things made a big difference to the action.
I was toying with using my redundant front X7 shifter (went 1x10) to operate the travel adjust but in the end I stayed with the standard lever as it was easy to see what mode I was in as I forgot quite a bit and ended descending in 90mm quite a bit until I made a mental note to visibly check it more often.
I'm leaving mine 2x10 so I don't think the grip shift will work too well, especially with the XT levers which are thought to be a bit short for use with the grip shift. It's certainly something I'm considering trying though. The cable bend on my shock remote doesn't seem too severe and looks quite tidy. Not sure what the oiler thing is you speak of but I will look into it.
http://www.middleburn.co.uk/uncategorized/product-feature-cable-oilers
2 minute job to lube a cable, have fitted them to bikes for years, great little things.
Just had my first serious ride on XT1x11 on the Jekyll.
Totally brilliant.
Only on the Ridgway around Didcot but there are some climbs that were just in that front mech swap range and that has gone. The overall range seems fine to me with the 32t oval.
Has anyone replaced the bb bearings in their trigger 4? One of mine is completely seized and I'm not sure what to replace it with?
Need your help guys. Just replaced the triple chainset for a single 30t narrow wide. Really happy with it tbh. However when I took the front dereilleur off it left a bracket. Has anyone found a cap that fits in its place rather than leaving the bracket on?? Can't seem to be able to upload a photo for some reason
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Superstar had some that looked like they would do the job. I've just left the bracket on so far.
Cheers for reply. Just had a look and they don't seem like the right one for the cannondale. Needs to be more like a bolt with big head on it
I just put the bolt back without the rest of the assembly.
Could anybody help me was thinking of buying giant trance1 2015 to I saw price of triggers thinking of the 2 do u think it's better bike.and for climbing then trance don't no what bike to order only started Sept got hooked then bought giant anthem love the bike but out grown it on suspension Tec thanks
No idea of its a better bike as I've never tried the giant. I do however love my trigger. It's all about the lefty for me.
I too was looking at the Giant but opted for the Trigger C2. Love it. Never rode the Giant.
I made this choice last week and went with the Trance 1 (2015).
My medium weighs 28lbs dead with no pedals which considering the spec on an alu frame including a dropper is pretty good. The frame looks awesome in the raw aluminium.
I found the giant t1 fit me better than the cannondale.
I spent the last 3 weeks looking at everything sub 4k and luckily I have a range of dealers within 30 miles that cover nearly all high end.
Anyone thinking about the Leonardi Racing cable guide for the lefty, don't bother. It's cheap crap. Two halves push fit together around the cables. You cable tie one half to the lefty. As soon as you turn the bars, the pressure of the cables pops it apart. You are better off with a couple of cable ties looped together - I'm using a larger cable tie around the Lefty and a small tie looped through it and around the cables. Works better than the Leo which I am returning.
