I've been spending. Again.
Sunrace MS3 11-42 Cassette as I went 1x10 a few weeks back. Fitted no issues, just had to tweek the indexing and b-screw adjustment. Shifting feels as nice as the HG cassette but haven't ridden it yet as it's too bloody cold. Will (probably) report back over the weekend. £44.99 next day delivery from Triton cycles.
Ebay bargain, new Easton Havoc 50mm stem to replace the Cannondale 80mm. Just feels good, everything is a little more compact. Build quality is excellent and has titanium bolts. If you are changing stem to a 40mm stack height, helpfully the Cannondale is 51mm. I had to buy a 10mm spacer.
Massive long shot, but I don't suppose anyone that has bought one of these lives with shouting distance of Bristol?
I'm very close to hitting buy on the Trigger 2 but would be good to see one in the flesh (Or the 3 of 4) and talk to someone who owns one before splashing £2. I am an XL but wouldn't be too fussy on that!
Many biscuits available in return. Chocolate ones...
Great day out today but took a hard hit and dented my rear rim and have a buckle.
Wouldn't seal so had to put a tube in.
I'm considering getting new wheels but have no idea what hub axle rims I'd need. What should I be looking for?
What wheel set would be an upgrade?
Thanks for any help
American Classic Wide Lightning available with Lefty front and X12 rear.
Sorry I should have said it's a trigger 4.
Ahhh
Think I know what I'm needing now.
Front 15mm
Rear 12x142
Free hub 8 9 or 10 shimano
Which wheels would be an upgrade?
Thanks
Has anyone tried offset bushes on their Trigger 27.5? What were the results like?
Does anyone know if the alloy Jekyll has routine for an internal dropper?
It does.Does anyone know if the alloy Jekyll has routine for an internal dropper
After doing about 300 miles on my trigger 4 I can say yes it's an absolute bargain for £999.
The rear shock Is really plush in both modes and the fork works well too.
The only thing I get is a little bit of flex in the rear end but think that could be the tyre moving on the rim.
Dave.
Finally got around to try Rascal's rear brake adapter fix. It's a 180mm Shimano post adapter that's needed and it works a treat so if you want to increase the rear disc size to 180mm that's the way to do it. Cheers Rascal, good tip.
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Does anyone have any suggestions for a seat? I'm getting soft in my old age. WTB saddle is a pain in the ar$e.
Looking at a Charge Spoon but haven't tried one before, any opinions?
Everyone's arse is different. I like Charge seats and I like SDG Bel Airs. I guess based on that then they must be a similar shape. I also don't mind the WTB that came with my Trigger....make of that what you while 🙄
I've stuck with the wtb sale for now and don't find it too bad. Previously I had Charge scoops on all my bikes which I think are excellent.
Okay....Trigger 27.5 Carbon 2 Vs Carbon Team.
I've looked up a few reviews that quote the weight of the carbon 2 as ~30lbs. Can only find 2 reviews for the Team that quote a weight....one is 24.8lbs(!), the other ~27.8lbs. The latter (27.8lbs) seems much more likely. Can any owners shed any light?
I really like my Trigger 4. I have changed a few things on it from stock, added a reverb when I first bought it and since then I have changed the tyres to Michelin Rock'R 2 Advanced, blackspire narrow wide ring and bashguard, new grips, saint shifter and Zee rear mech.
I do find it a bit draggy on climbs and flatter sections but once it gets going down hill it is a lot of fun. I have ordered some offset bushings to slacken the headtube by 1.5 degree and drop the bb by 15mm which should make it even more fun going down.
My carbon team weighs 26.8lb covered in dry mud with rear light/bottle cage and 2.3 Vigilantes.
longmover, where did you get the bushes from?
I have ordered them from [url= http://www.offsetbushings.com/ ]offset bushings[/url]
Hopefully they will turn up this week so I can fit them for the weekend.
Bugger. Trigger carbon 2 ordered. My credit card is weeping!
I don't think offset bushes will work that well with it being a pull shock rather than a compression shock, a big bottom out might possibly rotate the/a bush round?
Keep us updated as I'm currently looking at Works offset headset for my Jekyll.
I was thinking that but I have read about it being done to the Jekyll so thought it was worth a go. I also looked at angle sets but I don't think you can get one to fit.
Thanks notlocal. What frame size?
If anyone has been having trouble with cable run on the lefty forks but a set of speed stuff neoprene guards for DH forks, snip and fit. It does a great job. The stick on clamp that someone recommended looked but was pooop!
Offset bearings should work but you would have to put them in opposite to a standard shock, so you are effectively making the shock longer. Really depends if the pivot has available travel.
Offset bearings should work but you would have to put them in opposite to a standard shock, so you are effectively making the shock longer. Really depends if the pivot has available travel.
yep you are correct - in my befuddled brain I was thinking of them making the shock 'shorter' whereas they need to make the shock longer. I am an engineer as well.....the shame.
I am an engineer as well.....the shame.
So am I! At least your shame is limited to a public forum... 😆
I'm a geologist so just blagging it as usual
I lasted one brief ride with the WTB saddle on my Trigger 4.
Charge spoon was on ASAP.
I was surprised by the difference in feel (pain vs comfort) as they are quite similarly shaped.
Had the Trigger for about 4 months and over 300m miles and yet to ride it in the dry.
Still, tremendous fun and I am still ripping a few good Strava times with the Wolverines on (rear is nearly dead) so can't wait until the summer!
I didn't mind the wolverines but I've noticed the upgrade to trail kings.
I haven't put my charge spoon on as it's 50 grams heavier even though it's far more comfortable (I know I'm ridiculous)
I'm a bit pissed off with the cable rub next to the rear shock. It's gone through my protective strips and it's really quite deep. The warranty states it doesn't cover damage caused by cable rub. Seems like it could be catastrophic after about a year. Tempted to complain but not sure I'd have a leg to stand on.
Oh has anyone tried the 11- 40 10 speed rear cassete? Any difference between praxis or sunrace? Or the 11-42
Thanks
On mine (a carbon frame) there is a protective metal plate in the area where the shock cable touches the frame. Not sure if you can get them for all the frames?
withersea, I'm on an XL.
Jason, I think the metal patch/guard can be bought from qwerty cycles, they do a lot of dale spares. I got a sag indicator from them for my Jekyll, before changing to the Trigger.
Oh has anyone tried the 11- 40 10 speed rear cassete? Any difference between praxis or sunrace? Or the 11-42
Thanks
I've fitted the Sunrace 11-42 in steel, got it for £44.99. Fitted no problem, changes gear perfectly even to the 42t. Matched it with a oneup components narrow wide oval 32t.
The 42t has made quite a difference on really steep sections, especially swearing, much less swearing now.
Is this the metal plate fitted to the carbon frame...
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cannondale-trigger-27-5-chainstay-protect-kp345
Any tyre suggestions for this lovely uk weather? Nothing too heavy as the Trigger 4 is weighty enough and plenty of hills to climb around me.
Anyone running any specialized tyres as they are always pretty cheap?
thats the Anti Chain-suck plate for the chainstay
Thanks for the info
Any idea which one is required to protect the frame from cable rub near the rear shock....
parts ID's here (allthough not for the 27.5 Trigger)
http://www.cannondalespares.com/exploded_diagrams
Cheers dude, will give them a ring and update on here as I'm guessing other alloy trigger riders frames are being eaten alive by cable rub
If you have a look on page 4 of this thread you can see the metal plate on my bike.
None of those parts look farmiliar- it's really just a square of stainless or Alu, not sure which
Has anyone else had trouble with the KS Lev seat post being reluctant to extend or stay extended? Seatpost collar definitely not too tight. Also forks feel quite sticky and dry. I guess they might need time to bed in a bit?
[img] https://flic.kr/p/Dr7Z4y [/img]
Not mine, but a pic of the plate to stop cable rub from the shock cable.
I just put loads of frame protection tape in the areas where a cable would rub whilst building it.
Think I'm done with tubeless. There hasn't been one week where I didn't have to pump up the tyres. Went to check them today and the rear was down to 5psi. Pumped up to 60psi and noticed latex solution escaping from one of the spoke holes. I'm guessing the rim tape has not been applied correctly. Also if I move the valves I can hear air escaping. It's a total PITA. It also changes from font to back wheels in any given week. Aaaargh.
Options are buy new latex, rim tape, and possibly valves also or figure out how to get the supplied valves to seal properly. Easier to just shove the tubes back in, the tubes only weigh 200g and there is at least 100g of latex in the tubeless anyway.
Suggestions?
Are you using the dreaded WTB Wolverines, I couldn't get my ones to seat at all, I think the Michelins I'm using now will be better. Next time I have a go I will be retaping the rims and using different valves
Both, and having the same issues on each. I have the Michelin Wild Grip R2 Advanced, and they seat perfectly.
Might try Gorilla tape as an option from what I've read!
Tubeless tyres - the solution to a problem that doesn't exist. After reading of countless experiences like this, I really don't know why anyone bothers. Unless you really are a proper race snake.
I'm replacing the hated Wolverines with a pair of Nobby Nics this week, complete with tubes. Apparently they take some serious leverage to get off the rims
Nics went tubeless on my rims using just my hand pump.
Getting the wolverines off is ok, getting them back on again is a shit.
Just finished installing offset bushings and now have a 66 degree head angle, will hopefully see how it rides this week.
I deliberated long and hard about going tubeless too.
So far, so good though it's only been one ride!
Wolverines came off fine and put Specialized Butcher grid on front and Purgatory on back.
Had to add extra layer of tape on one of them but both went up easily with track pump.
Not ridden for 4 weeks but tyres still fully inflated.
Will probably all go tits up with multiple rides in a short space of time though!
I've given up on tubeless on my mountain kings. I went on an epic mountain ride and came home ruining tubes. Running 25psi tubeless I dented the rear rim and lost the seal. Tube fixed it.
Then after 3 burps and 3 reinflations I put a tube in.
I enjoyed the experiment and loved the feel of softer tyres but it ended up causing a lot of problems and nearly cost me a small fortune to replace my rear wheel. I hadn't had a flat in years!
Punctures are a good point. Touch wood I've not had a puncture in years on the bicycle, can't remember the last one and I've never had a snake bite. Quite a few in the car and motorbike though.
Tubes it is and I'll carry a spare. Not looking forward to cleaning the tyres and rims from liquid latex!
longmover: Where did you get the offset bushings from, and do you have sizes? Front feels a bit lighter since changing to a 50mm stem so slackening the forks angle might help. Why can't I just leave stuff alone?!?
To sum up my experiences with tubed 29" Wolverines.
Grip - OK
Removal - Almost impossible
Refit - Don't know, as I ripped the sidewall trying to unseat the bead
Replaced with Vittoria Barzos, which are an altogether lovelier experience.
Tubeless tyres - the solution to a problem that doesn't exist. After reading of countless experiences like this, I really don't know why anyone bothers. Unless you really are a proper race snake.
Only once have I ever had a problem running tubeless, and that was a flint slash to one of my tyres. Plus I'm a heavy rider.
I instantly noticed improved feel/feedback and lighter rolling resistance when switching to tubeless, plus have heard/witnessed umpteen punctures seal themselves almost instantly whilst on the trail.
This is a combo of running stans set-up or ghetto set up with gorilla tape, on various bikes.
Clearly horses for courses but I would never switch back to using pointless tubes. I carry a spare in my bag for emergencies and that's it. I would urge anyone having bad experiences to practice their set up, seal any gaps, and crack on.
Clearly horses for courses
True.
I would never switch back to using pointless tubes
In your opinion.
I'm on the tubed horse on the not stuck in the middle on nowhere course.
PSA: Hope Tech 3 V4 calipers do not fit onto the Lefty brake adapter. Well not without the 4 washers I need to buy. And at the back end neither the caliper nor the lever assembly fit through the gap betwixt Lefty and headtube, so despite the brake pipe being pretty much the right length you have to remove it from the lever assembly and bleed. Grrrrr.
At least the shift to 1x11 XT went OK.
Looking forward to getting my Jekyll back out in the mud.
Yeah. First world problems I know, but really thought I'd be riding it this afternoon. 🙁
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I've got some pretty serious wear on my rear cassette. I had noticed my shifting had started to get a little poor.
I've never had to replace a cassette before but I've also never been winter riding 3 times a week.
[IMG] 
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So it turns out. Once you buy a sunrace mx3 cassette and two chains your mate will phone and say that the teeth are meant to be different and they aren't worn. Oh well. The hills will be easy now.
Offset bushings installed and ridden. The bb feels like it is in a better position for me as I like the rear suspension quite firm and run less than the recommended amount of sag. The static head angle is now 66.5 degrees and makes the bike feel quite stable on the steeps. I only had a play yesterday but will add more when I have given it a proper go on the steep stuff.
The bushings themselves were a doddle to install with the correct tool. So far I am definitely impressed by the change, it now feels like it will be more upto the job on really steep and technical terrain. so far I am impressed.
About to replace the bottom bracket on my Cannondale Trigger 4. I guess 4 months isn't too bad... I have never had a press fit bottom bracket before, can anyone recommend a replacement BB? I am a bit confused by the press fit standards.
Thanks
Henry
Hope ceramic fitted by my LBS.
@ Longmover...Where did you get the offset bushings from and what sizes were they please?
Offsetbushings.com I can't tell you the size, I just told them the frame and shock combination and they arrived a couple of days later.
I am pleased to report there have been no bottom out problems and the bike feels a lot more planted on the steep technical stuff. I have 3mm offset top and bottom.
Perfect. Ta!
No problem, definitely worth doing in my opinion.
Flowerman, if your trigger 4 is the same as mine then it has a bottom bracket converter. Don't buy a bb30 bottom bracket unless you want to change cranks too. I've not examined mine in much detail but I imagine you could buy any shimano hollow tech bb and it'd do the job.
Has anyone thought about fitting some kind of downtube protection? I notice Rockguardz do them for the 29er but I think the frames are different aren't they?
Cut up one of the wolverines and cable tie it on, it'll be better as a frame guard than a tyre.
Haha! Mine came with the mavics, although what you suggest is as true for them as it is the wtb's!
flowerman, how many miles would you say that your bb has lasted? I've done around 400 and I think mine is on the way out also. Has been a muddy few months though
I would guess I have done about 3-400 miles or so, maybe a little less. Not sure at the moment, what is this BB converter?
I have a trigger 4 medium with 17.5cm of seat post sticking out of the frame. I want to get a dropper post and was looking at RockShox reverb but not sure if i should get stealth vs regular, 100mm drop versus 125mm, length of post, left or right - although left seems logical. Any advice! Diameter is 31.6?!
Thanks!
I'm about to get one also. My understanding is that the bike has stealth routing so stealth is an option. Seatpost is 31.6
My medium trigger can fit 200mm of seat post inside. My max seat height is 18 cm. So if I get the 380mm I can put 200mm inside, 180mm outside and utilise the full 125mm dropper.
I haven't got a shifter on the left so I'm going to mount it there but underneath. Which means ordering the reverb with RH shifter.
I think I've thought of everything. Please help if not.
I am not sure about stealth or regular reverb. Seat hight seems tight I may check mine again.
I have a strealth ks lev on my xl trigger. It worked fine and have the perfect amount of adjustment. Getting all the routing set up was a pain being that I hadn't done it before but it's been faultless since.
Looks like you may need to remove shock and BB and bleed etc. if you get stealth. Is it still worth it over regular reverb?
The routing for a reverb stealth is pretty easy, it comes out of the seat tube and into the down tube at the lower shock mounting.
It's fairly simple if you have a set of picks.
