Oh well, I'm stuck with 1x10 as cannondale UK don't have the part so none of the UK dealers I've spoken to can get the part. Bit of a pain but never mind I'll just get out and enjoy it
Is this the bit? Dr Cannondale seems to have them. KP291
http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epages/61764971.mobile/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61764971/Products /"KP291/X"&ViewAction=ViewProduct
Yes it is! The reliable Germans have it. 20 euros plus 15 euros postage stings a bit. At least I now know where I can get one though, thanks. I've a feeling at that price I might just make one on my dad's lathe when I next visit him and settle with 1x10 for now.
Bit nippy in the Pentlands this morning! Fitted a oneup components 32t traction ring yesterday and tried it out this morning. The 1x10 setup and oval ring has definitely improved pedalling, and only £35 delivered. Have also fitted CTD remote, 150mm stealth dropper, and DMR v12's. Enjoying it a lot.
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I wasn't aware you could get a ctd remote. There has been a couple of times I've been trying to change it on the fly before a big drop.
I've finally put on my single chain ring. I reused my old boltsby removing about 2-3mm with a dremmel. I used a saw for the last one which was even easier. Just need to soften the edge with a file on the male end.
I just need to get my chain breaker back so I can get the front derailleur off.
Think I'll try tubeless on my new continental mountain kings before I go out tomorrow. I can't imagine the stock tyres loving the snow.
crazymac - my trigger 4 came with a speedlink on the chain, so perhaps no need for a chain tool?
Thanks. Out if pure luck. I clamped my chain tool on the link right next to the speed link. I'd never seen one but it popped open easily.
Might have been done already but they're now back in stock at Paul's. Fifty quid more expensive this time but still an absolute bargain.
How is everyone cleaning the pull shock after a ride? I get the wife to sit on it while I give it a wipe and spray of wd40. Is this the only option short of taking the air out?
Thanks
Never use wd40. Its vegetable based oil. I use Brunox on mine, so sit on the bike and clean the shaft and then a spot of Brunox.
Always use fork oil. I have a cut down paintbrush in a pasta jar that I dab, compress and wipe.
A cautionary tale for anyone running WTB Wolverines with tubes as supplied by Cannondale.
In the event of a puncture they are extremely difficult to get off the rims. Also, they are not supplied with rim tape, just the tubeless seal. So, if you nick the rim with a lever whilst wrestling with it to remove the tire you will blow the spare tube as soon as you put air in it.
Go to your LBS. Buy 2 new tires and some rim tape. Put aside a couple of hours and swap them out.
Prepare to get extremely annoyed with them, then be thankful that you are not trying to do it in the middle of nowhere at 10:00pm in the rain.
Tubes = Great
Tubeless = Great
Tubeless ready with extremely tight tires and no rim tape = Shocking
I had a similar problem, tried to go tubeless and couldn't get the bead to seal so I went back to tubes, could I get the things back on, **** no! Blew both the oem inner tubes trying.
Good cycle today. Felt far more confident with the continental mountain king on the front. [img][url= http://s14.postimg.org/54nqlpaoh/20151129_140404.jp g" target="_blank">http://s14.postimg.org/54nqlpaoh/20151129_140404.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://postimage.org/ ]image url upload[/url][/img]
Sorry to bring this up again.
Got the Trigger 4 with the WTB Wolverine tyres.
A wet ride yesterday convinced that these tyres are not for me.
No - haven't gone tubeless yet - they may be better run with less pressure but I think I'd rather just get some High Rollers - I've never felt as uneasy on a bike as I do with these tyres.
If I go tubeless, what do I need to buy to do so?
Sorry for the numpty question...is it just one bottle of sealant?
Still unconvinced about going tubeless TBH...I very rarely puncture.
Just need to work out whether to do it before I buy the tyres.
Anyone done it and think it's not worth it?
On another note - ran 1x10 for first time too. New XT cranks with Raceface NW 30T and the supplied Deore 11-36 cassette. So quiet and so little crap fouling where the front mech would have been. Got up everything ok - just span out with the crap tyres a few times.
The wolverines are growing on me, they drift a lot but its fairly predictable that they will break out all the time. Embrace the slide!
Slowly learning the bike the more I ride it, had some fun playing around on some jumps and twisty trails yesterday, really surprised how well it flies and corners.
Going 1x10 tomorrow, have a saint shifter, zee rear mech, 30t blackspire snaggletooth and ring god to fit.
Rascal - not sure I've done it completely right, but my tyres are staying up so it can't be too wrong (until something catastrophic happens!). I did as you suggest, just got a bottle of sealant. I didn't bother trying it with the Wolverines to save on mess, I just waited until the high rollers arrived.
I couldn't get the wolverines to seal when trying to go tubless.
I thought that the Wolverines were fine until I tried to get them off the rim (see my multiple other posts). In a massive George Osborne style U-turn I’d say bin them. But do it in a warm and well lit garage/kitchen with a mug of team, a couple of biscuits and the radio on.
Don’t wait until you get a puncture in the middle of nowhere because if you do you are walking home.
I got them off ok, getting them back on was an all day affair with much swearing
So it's def the tyres that are tight - I shouldn't have any problems getting HRs onto the WTB rims?
I got the replacements (Vittoria Barzo) over the rims (DT Swiss) with my thumbs. Tyre and tube on in about 2 minutes... as it should be. Whoever though it was a good idea to fit a tyre as tight as that with a tube wants a bat up his/her nightdress.
Pipistrelle or cricket?Whoever though it was a good idea to fit a tyre as tight as that with a tube wants a bat up his/her nightdress.
Golf.
A 9 iron golf bat up your nightdress - def one for the ladies.
So with much trepidation after Harry's experiences with the Wolverines I thought I'd try and get them off to see what my tubeless ready wheels comprised of. I'm not sure why yours were such a mare HTS but mine came off way easier than I was expecting. 3 plastic tyre levers and very little effort and they were off - maybe yours were a Friday afternoon set and they put 26" tyres on by mistake? 😉
I was quite surprised to see just a strip of pale yellow tape covering the spoke holes - is that it?
So short of putting the supplied valves in do I need to do anything else, other than putting the new tyre on and put the sealant in? Is it worth putting some extra duct tape in first?
Is Stans the sealant to go for? Not sure of alternatives - worth going for the bigger size bottle?
Trigger finger poised to get these:
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/maxxis-highroller-ii-26-x-2%2C3-tlr-exo-60a-folding-tire-157911/wg_id-47
If you've seen these cheaper please shout up.
Rascal, they are 26" high rollers not 650b
Ha - good spot! 🙄
I got mine here...
No idea if that was the best price though.
Hmmm - they are the cheapest but never heard of them prior to them popping up during that search. Aren't they a Spanish outfit? Delivery and everything ok?
Mine were 29". Actually they were more like 28.8" with Kryptonite beads.
I thought the wolverines were fine, decent grip and cornering. Then it rained. I just didn't have much confidence in them, they are great on dry trail but not on mud or wet rock.
I fitted Michelin Wild Grip R2's tubeless and tried them sunday morning. You might have noticed a bit of rain on saturday... I basically cycled upstream for a few miles. The grip is fantastic everywhere apart from really wet mud. I have complete confidence in these tyres and set a few PB sections on my regular run regardless of the conditions. I cant rate these highly enough, or maybe they are just average and the wolverines are actually that bad? I'm keeping them for summer anyway.
£50 for the pair and tubeless set up was easy. I also got the Wolverines off with only one tyre lever and the Grip R's back on without a lever. Might be technique...
Might be technique...
Or maybe mine were just bastards! The mechanic at the LBS had a struggle with my front one too and he knows what he's doing. The rear was a bit easier, but not a job to be carried out in the wet and dark.
Had a spin on the Vittoria Barzos last night and they grip nicely in the mud and shyte.
I'm shoving a set of those on mine Harry. Gonna drop it in at Cookies and let them worry about it.
I was all over the shop last night, while you strode purposefully on with the surefooted confidence of Bruce Forsyth on Strictly
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Trickyd444 I bought the same tyres for mine. Wow, what a difference, it's like night and day. Really pleased with the Michelins. I'd been looking at high rollers but these seem just as good if not better and are a pretty decent price too. Thoroughly recommended.
Michelin link please 😉
Did you go 2.25 or 2.35?
How you they size up? Found 2.25 online for £23 a pop for 2.25...quite tempted...reviews seem good.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/michelin-wild-grip-r2-advanced-ts-mtb-tyre/rp-prod118462
2.35 on the front and 2.25 on the rear due to forums and hype...
There is a 1.5mm difference between front and rear width at 30psi and tubeless. I reversed the tread on the rear.
2.28 front, and 2.22 rear not measuring the knobs. Wider rims would probably help.
They have transformed the bike. I honestly cannot believe the change in handling, braking especially from speed on any surface.
Most of my bikes run Michelins. Never the tyre of the moment, like schwalbes seem to be currently, but am always happy with them for the money.
Rascal - I think Acycle are French. Delivery was fine, took a couple of days. Everything was well packaged. I also paid £notalot for a Mavic crossride jersey at the same time.
Hi, I'm 5' 7" with a 29" inseam, please could someone my height confirm what size in the trigger fitted them? I am thinking medium as that's what size my current bike is (a 2008 stumpy fsr) but I realise that my height puts me on the cusp of a small/medium. I have looked through the thread but have not seen anyone my height confirm what size actually fitted. Also what size stem does the bike come with? I'm looking at the team or carbon 2, so want to know what the options are for fitting a shorter stem if necessary.
Thanks from a first time poster but long time lurker.
Regards
Mark
I'm stuck on Cannondale sizing too. At 5'10" I'm bang on the margin between medium and large. Medium ett seems short?
Might be technique...
Or maybe mine were just bastards! The mechanic at the LBS had a struggle with my front one too and he knows what he's doing. The rear was a bit easier, but not a job to be carried out in the wet and dark.
My ones were also bastards, I still haven't forgiven them for the mocking I received whilst trying to get them back on!
Gone for Butcher & Purgatory Grid.
Got them from Websters Cycles in Leicester over phone as they order them in from Spesh.
Got the pair for £50 instead of £70 - plus £3.99 delivery - happy with that price.
Ask for Ash.
Anyone else noticed a slight resistance at the start of the Dyad shock travel - a sort of click as it starts to compress (or extend, whatever). Happens on the 140 setting, not the short travel setting, rest of suspension movement is smooth. Seems to have started since a recent reset of the shock.
I've Followed this thread from the start, and it helped to guide me to get the trigger for my 13year old in the summer (he saved £550 so we coughed up the rest for his birthday) It's served him well on local trails, several trail centres plus a day at Antur Stiniog - he loves it and his ridings' come on leaps and bounds on it.
Clink, I'm 6'1 and the large fits me fine although I do use use a lay back seat post with the standard stem (60mm I think) as the ETT does seem abit short for me with a 740mm bar.
What do you currently ride? I also have an 18" Stanton Slackline which is def smaller but suits the hardtail chuckability. The larger Trigger feels more at home being a full wusser.
You can easily swap out stem, bar and seatpost to fine tune your sizing either way if your on the cusp of both a medium or large.
You get one though - so much bike for the £ and excellent to ride up and down
Thanks for that. My current bike is a Salsa Horsethief. The Cannondales seem to have short ett for their size, or is it me?
I'm stuck on Cannondale sizing too. At 5'10" I'm bang on the margin between medium and large. Medium ett seems short?
I'm also 5 10 and when I demo'd a heap of 'dales the other week I found the medium to be waaaaay to short in the top tube. It was like riding a big bmx. I'd definitely go for the large. Oh and the stock tyres on the 2016s are also just as bad.
I'm 6'1 and ride a Large Trigger, 32" inside leg. I have the seat about 1cm from full forward on a Reverb Stealth post so I have a bit more space for moving around when it's dropped, and the bike just feels a bit more balanced. There is an 80mm stem on the L and XL. The bike is perfect, seemed a bit large to begin with but I got over that quickly.
I'm also 5 10 and when I demo'd a heap of 'dales the other week I found the medium to be waaaaay to short in the top tube. It was like riding a big bmx.
I suppose its down to personal preference, but I'm the same height and find my medium perfect. In fact I've put a shorter stem on it, to pull the bars in a bit more. But then again if you asked me to describe my perfect bike it would be 'like a big bmx'.
I tried the large and it didn't feel right at all. Too long.
I'd be happy on my 5'10 mate's M 29er. I'm 6' but would also probs go for a large, not at 5'10 though.
On the M, he's too little to be able to fit a 125 reverb, had to go 100, another thing to consider.
His Wolvs refitted on the WTBs with nae bother also. Just added jizz and valves for instant tubeless.
Just picked up a Cannondale Trigger Team from Paul's, because I was uncertain on sizing they built a bike up for me to go and view/ try for size. The medium fits me well (5'7" with 29" inside leg) very similar to my Stumpy. The colour is amazing stealth black with bright green also feels very light but I have no scales. Still waiting for the postman to deliver my pedals, and want to shorten the reverb hose and replace the white(?) gear cable outer.
Pauls were very helpful and like many others here I would use them again.
Mark
5' 10 here too and the medium Trigger seems fine
does anyone have a picture of a black Trigger, pref samll, covered in mud or at least in a "used" condition?
want to wind a friend up. we had their Trigger delivered to my folks as Pauls do not ship to Germany. the bike is still in its box, but i want to say that i christened it today....
cheers.
Alpin - bike in use, but not covered in mud - see http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/cannondale-trigger-bargain/page/14
Has anyone with a Trigger 3 or 4 shortened the stem on a Large? It's 80mm just now and just feeling a bit long. The S/M have a 50mm stem which would be preferable. Any options? CRC have the Easton Havoc but only black at 65mm, the Orange would probably distract me too much...
Cheers hammerite....seen it already, but she'll never believe that the UK is that dry... Tbh, not would I. 😀
trickyd444 - I posted up the CRC link to the Easton stems earlier on the thread as I've put a 50mm one on. I thought it felt a bit long too. Its In black though. That Orange is horrible. I couldn't live with it.
You can get a [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/thomson-elite-x4-mtb-stem/rp-prod8570?gs=1&gclid=CjwKEAiA18mzBRCo1e_-y_KLpXISJACEsANGeyrYBG7oQWhFGzrIYhDQ7YF8eSW44f7XoxkegC7WgRoCbh7w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds ]Thomson[/url]
binners - Did you notice a difference with the 50mm? I'm trying to cure some lower back strain at the same point of my regular run after a long low climb. I have the seat about 5mm from fully forward, just feeling a bit too stretched out. This bike is long!
Anyone else have a problem with their lefty sticking down? I know the new supermax lefties has self resetting bearinings, but it still mentions needing to do a manual reset every 50 hours. As these are solo air forks could the transfer port be getting block ala rockshox solo air systems?
Could someone PLEASE buy the last of these? Pauls seem to keep finding more and I'm getting tempted.
Had my trigger 4 for about 3 months now and am enjoying it quite a lot. Climbs very well and is generally good fun. However what I have noticed is a awful lot of rear end flex. I seem to find the tire very regularly rubs the chainstays, and not just a little but it slows the bike down a bit and makes a noise. I am running slightly wider rear tire, a 2.4 conti trail king and after swapping to a narrower 2.2 tire the problem was pretty similar. I'm a downhill rider, never had a full sus trail bike. I don't know if I'm just used to the solid stiff feeling of a dh bike, or whether the trigger is just a flexy bike?
Only thing that flexes noticibly on the carbon one is the back wheel when it's being abused.
Not enough pictures of people's bikes on this thread - here's mine today before the mud
Surprised how good these bikes are 🙂
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http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m324/quattro83/Bike%20Parts/20160102_142323_zps7ikji5gs.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
I've uploaded a couple of videos of from my xiaomi yi action cam.
These are my local trails in stornoway.
The originals are great 1080p 60fps. I downgraded them with windows movie maker to the default youtube settings. 25mbps to 5 mbps.
Any recommendations on the settings that would improve it and still be a decent file size? My Internet is only 2mbps download so I can't just leave it original.
Thanks for any advice.
Read the earlier posts and people kept saying 'can't go wrong only paying £999. Was the trigger that price recently or am I reading that wrong ?
The 2015 trigger 4 was £999.
Does anyone know where in the UK I can buy a 180mm brake adapter for my trigger? Like this out of stock one -
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cannondale-180mm-rear-brake-adaptor-jekyll-kp176
whereisthurso - just out of interest why do you want one?
I only ask as I was after one so I could swap the front 185 for a 203, an put the 185 on the back to replace the 160. Did it without needing that part in the end.
If that's what you're doing I can ping you details later...cheers
Had mine (a 3) for a couple of months now after this deal persuaded me to give mountain biking a go for the first time in a decade, especially when bought on our companies cycle to work scheme! Very glad I did, it's great fun and more than enough bike for me.
Only real gripes I have is that the Fusion dropper post now refuses to fully extend after only a couple of rides! Anyone else had this/have any ideas on how to fix this? It rises a bit but I have to manually lift the last couple of inches. Considering ditching it and getting a reverb...
Rascal that's exactly what I'm intending on doing. Any tips would be much appreciated. Cheers.
I've finally got round to weighing the parts removed when I converted to a single chain ring.
Shifter and cable
front mech
3 chain rings
bolts
486 grams
I installed a 52 gram chain ring
so I'm 434 grams lighter.
Pretty good result for £34
Apologies if this has been said before but when I removed the shock on my trigger 4 to route a dropper cable I noticed that the cable for the shock was really chewing through the downtube at an alarming rate. I'd put on helitape in that area but it had cone through it after a month or so of riding. Worth checking this isn't happening with yours too.
Thurso - did the rear rotor adaptor thing work?
Not had a chance to try it yet. Spent Friday night getting the dropper set up and the weekend riding through the slop. Am going to try the rear adapter fix this Friday. Will let you know how it goes.
Links to the F+R shocks on Fox:
http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=515
http://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/09/custprod/content/shoxtopics/dyadrt2.html
I put tape on to protect the frame from the rear shock cable too. I've not checked it since. It had taken a chunk out of mine too.
Good setup links trickyd
Thanks
Rascal/whereisthurso, please could you let me know the fix for the brakes as I'd like to up my brakes to 203/185 f/r as well if possible. I have the trigger team with a lefty up front if that makes a difference?
Regards
Mark
mark97 - I wanted bigger rotors F&B.
I had the 203 rotor and adaptor from my previous bike so they went up front.
The 185 that was on the front went to the back and the 160 was ditched.
At that point I was looking at bespoke adaptors (expensive!) but I tried various adaptors I had lying about.
Pretty sure the one I've used is a 160 - kept the original Cannondale rear mount but used 2 long bolts to go through the adaptor and original mount into the frame - need to make sure they aren't so long that they foul the rotor or chainstay under compression. Then attach caliper to the 160 adaptor. Used on a few rides now with no problems...ping me your email and I'll send a pic.
This is one of the best guides to setting up a Dyad I've tried. These numbers ar for a Jekyll but just try em for the Trigger.
Start by setting the reccommended negative and positve spring pressure and then add or subtract positive pressure until you get to 30-percent sag on the indicator. Next, add negative spring pressure until it sags to 35 percent. That is how the bike worked best for us. If you are bottoming out a lot, but you like the way the shock works, then add pressure evenly in both chambers until you only bottom once in a while each ride. Use Negative pressure to set ride height, similar to how you would normallly use low-speed compression."
From Pink Bike comments.
