[Closed] Cane Creek DB-IL a worthy upgrade?

yes

YES!!!

Very good shock and the early reliability issues seem to have been sorted now. Can’t remember what I paid for mine but I remember thinking it was pretty good value.

I’m running the same set up but with the Helm fork too.
I also had that exact shock on a Trek Fuel.
The performance from shock and fork is simply staggering.
Night and day different.
One of my regular riding pals is an ex World Cup DH racer and he reckons the Evol with Cane Creek on both ends is one the most balanced and capable bikes he’s ever ridden.
I bought mine after one test ride from another happy customer.

If you can stretch to it, get the Helm fork too.

What's climbing like on the DB-IL? I've read a few reports about it staying active, so maybe good for rougher climbs but not as efficient for the smoother ones?

It’s very active, tracks everything on techy climbs.
It does have a “climb” lever that stiffens low speed compression and rebound by about 50%.

Best upgrade I did when I had my Hightower. Really transformed how it rode!

I'd have another one.

Never been a great downhiller but the cane creek combination gives me loads of confidence [url= https://live.staticflickr.com/7814/40441649933_62b7c95252_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/7814/40441649933_62b7c95252_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/24BG2yr ]54525401_10157268963806474_3159899545240862720_n[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/145353521@N03/ ]Richard Munro[/url], on Flickr

So it sounds as though it will improve downhill performance and possibly technical climbs too, at the cost of sapping a bit more energy on long smooth climbs.

you won't notice it when sitting.

Yes. Transformed my T130.

Thanks for all the positive feedback. Cane creek it is then.

Time I put a bike in the classifieds to try and stretch to the helm up front.

Cheers

Deffo.

So it sounds as though it will improve downhill performance and possibly technical climbs too, at the cost of sapping a bit more energy on long smooth climbs.

in order: absolutely, definately, not even slightly

You have to really mash the pedals to get it moving more than a few mm with the climb switch engaged. The advantage is that it allows the wheel to gently conform to uneven ground when needed, so maintains traction, but doesn't trapdoor in bigger dips and will still move out of the way fast if needed. On smooth stuff it just sits at the sag point and barley moves from it. Way more useful than a lockout.

Thanks for the feedback. I don't wish to hijack the OP's thread, but I've been swithering about the DB-IL since picking up my FlareMax. I decided against it when I ordered the frame as I was concerned about the climbing (being one of those weirdos who enjoys the climb as much as the descent). I don't really have any complaints with the Xfusion O2, but I keep hearing that the DB-IL is much better so it's tempting. But I still can't shake the feeling that I'd be trading better downhill performance for worse uphill. I'm not that bothered about a few seconds on the climb, but if it's less efficient that will add up over a long day and could get annoying.

rp, I might be able help you in your quest.

If you fancy a trip to, oh, say, Aviemore sometime?

Another vote for the coil DBIL - it's great and the climb switch is excellent. I didn't used to use it at all and it already behaves well climbing when set up properly. But the switch really is loads better than a lockout.

On mine sat down and spinning the shock is fine, its when you put in a couple of hard cranks, say sprinting into a technical feature on a climb, it feels a bit soft. I've made no effort to tune it though as love the grip and composure on the downs.

Have an early DB inline that's been upgraded to DB air IL spec at the last service and it's great. PLush but controlled. Fantastic on tougher rocky and rooty trails.

Remember the climb switch isn't a lock out for tarmac. It changes the damping to help pedaling a bit but maximise traction up technical climbs. I use it all the time on the steep pulls up the malverns and it's great.

Got a mate coming round later with his new one to fine tune it....bit worried I may stuff it up and not be able to get to the base tune. I've only ever gone a few clicks either way on my settings so don't know how to asses where the base tune is from a starting point - always been worried about stories that one or two of the adjustments don't have a defined end stop...

The climbing performance is fine, I upgraded to an original DB IL from a basic Fox evol CTD and it was way better, allowed me to get the best of both worlds between launching jumps and smooth descending. I climb plenty of steep stuff and rarely bother with the climb lever, only ever use it on long fire road climbs. It'll take a bit of time to tune it right though.

Are these holding up well ? I went through 3 inlines in 18 months, second two times where full rebuilds with the all new improved internals.

So far so good, bought mine second hand but freshly serviced with newer seals have been riding for 16 months with no issues. Squeaked a little at first due to not being centered perfectly on the mounting hardware a couple of thin washers sorted that out though

The reliability on the newer ones (all black?) is meant to be fine now.

I've ridden one & was very impressed with it as a shock. Wouldn't hesitate to have one if I was looking to upgrade (although a bit pointless as I have a DPX2 on my little bike anyway).

But I still can’t shake the feeling that I’d be trading better downhill performance for worse uphill. I’m not that bothered about a few seconds on the climb, but if it’s less efficient that will add up over a long day and could get annoying.

Efficiency of one factor in isolation is probably not the way to look at it. I actually find it less tiring on fireroad climbs than the monarch it replaced as it still has some give when needed to smooth the way and I arrive at the top feeling better and have enjoyed the climb more. I have a very bad back and crap knees and both were noticeably less painful using the CCDBairIL CS than the monarch lock out. On offroad uphill there is just no contest; CC knocks lockouts into a cocked hat.

On tarmac there isn't enough roughness to get it moving (unless you have the worst pedaling technique ever or insist on standing out of the saddle and stamping the entire way).

I just cannot comprehend how it would rob you of enough energy to ruin a ride. Quite the opposite in my experience. Plus the downs will be better and will have more control and be less beaten up and feel fresher at the bottom. Win in both directions as far as I cam concerned.

If it psychological and you interpret any movement of the shock to mean that you are losing energy then there isn't much any of us can say to change your mind or make you happy with the swap.

Can you borrow one to try? I think that is the only way to gather the evidence that you need to make your decision. CC publish base settings on their website for cotics so it should be very easy to pop one in and play.

Sorry @mh just noticed your kind offer. It will have to wait for a bit as my wife is away most weekends at the moment training for a big event this summer, so I’m at home with the kids and grabbing a few hours to ride when I can. Maybe once she’s done though. Looking forward to hearing how you get on with the new bike though. Can never have too many Cotic appreciation threads.

@rp: the offer is not time limited... 😁

Let me know when it suits and we can work something out.

👍