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Hi all
I have a new York fuggetabout it lock which is probably in breakable (or as close to) but weighs roughly 20kg when you add the lock. I really just use it to attach my bike at work (where the lock lives)
Are there lighter portable locks that I can use to lock up a £1500 bike whilst I pop into shops ? Has anyone got any recommendations?
Q
I have one of those Litelock D-locks, the ones made from some kind of composite that shreds angle grinders.
Not very light, about 1.5kg iirc but the videos of people attacking them with angle grinders are quite convincing.
If you lived here in Brighton and wanted to leave a £1500 bike you’d have to angle grinder resistant. Who knows, though, they might just cut your bike frame and take it for parts.
I lost a key and had to grind a Kryptonite. Less than 15 sec I’d say. Just one disc of course.
A mate had his bar, stem, levers, shifters nicked. Sad. Bloody expensive too. Just an Allen key and a cable cutter. Costly to replace.
I have one of those Litelock D-locks
Hmm, those look great, but a little bit small. Can you get it to lock through the rear wheel and frame to a Sheffield hoop? I guess my preferred method of taking the front wheel off and locking through the frame and both wheels is right out.
For the cost of a decent lock you can probably get a fully functional bike.
I locked a decent bike up with a cable lock. Lock chopped and bike gone.
I bought a new york lock with the pay out, the bikes been replaced with a much cheaper one. I would expect and half decent parts to vanish if chained up in the same place. Even if the bike has a massive lock on it
For not too much money the Ongiard Brute LS isn’t bad - 16.8mm hardened shackle like a Krytonite New Yor D lock but much much cheaper. Just if it gets wet a lot I’d suggest with the OnGuard you would be best lubricating the lock from time to time.
It’s bolt cropper proof but not angle grinder proof. Would need 2 angle grinder cuts to get r off as the shackle is very stiff.
The only angle grinder proof thing is the one mentioned above with the material in it to shatter angle grinder blades. But they’re very spendy.
I’d probably pick up a cheapie bike that has no kerb appeal at all, for going to the shops on. Still get the same OnGuard Brute and mount it in the frame with the bracket that comes with it. The uglier the bike the better.
Can you get it to lock through the rear wheel and frame to a Sheffield hoop?
Yes, this is what I do every day at work.
I do worry about how hard it is to go through a Sheffield Hoop though. You can do things like put a chain inside it but I have no idea if the ones at work have this.
Yeah, that's a good point, it's not really worth having a lock that's stronger than the thing you're locking it to.
The Sheffield hoop has a pretty thin material. I think it would grind really easily.
A lamp post is a better bet. Lock round headtube and use another less speedy lock with a cable to do both wheels. Into Brighton I get the bus just for this reason!
Sorry this is Tory banter below, but that hoop looks like a very easy cut. Even with a rotary pipe cutter!
https://twitter.com/ToryCycling/status/1662861027380195331
I use the https://www.tex-lock.com/en/product/tex-lock-eyelet/ as it's the lightest and easiest to use in all scenarios that I could find. Sold Secure Gold so it's good for my insurance as well.
Off topic, but GMBN did a decent video on bike security a few years ago, with suggestions on how to make it less attractive. Not a solution, but interesting.
When I was in London I always used two different types of lock (D-lock and heavy duty chain and armored padlock) on a reasonably cheap (Ridgeback) bike.
Apparently different tools are needed for different types of lock, so having two different types means that they’re likely to move onto the next bike?
Leave the lock attached to wherever you lock the bike up at work - then you can have the heaviest toughest lock up can afford / find.