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Just got the drivetrain together for switching to 1x10 from 2x10, without thinking it through particularly, and it seeems I need a new crankset?
I'd thought maybe you could get a thick thin chainring to go on the inner and use the old outer as a bash. The inner bcd seems small, though - think it's 76mm. Outer is 120, so am I bolloxed for getting a thick-thin chain ring (34 or 36) that will fit? I guess I am but wondered if there was some bodgery possible.
SRAM, presumably, with those BCDs?
Can't go smaller than 36t, but [url= http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/collections/chainrings/products/120-bcd-chainrings ]Wolf Tooth[/url] do a 36.
Thanks njee, good to know that's available. A bit pricey, but then so are new cranks.
The spacing will be wrong, it'll work but not well as the inner ring position won't be lined up with the center of your cassette which could cause issues in higher gears.
If you're using Sram cranks with a removable spider just get a [url= http://www.gamutusa.com/crank-spiders/ ]104-BCD single speed spider[/url] for them, then you'll be able to use any ring and bash combo you fancy.
I went 1x9, then 1x10 on my SLX double crankset back in March.
1000 miles later I am fascinated to find that it hasn't been working all that time.
The spacing will be wrong, it'll work but not well as the inner ring position won't be lined up with the center of your cassette which could cause issues in higher gears.
This is a non issue IMO, I ran XTR Race cranks 1x10, the issue was getting chainrings. The chain line was a couple of mm further out, but in reality it made no difference, wherever you were in the block.
Didn't say it wouldn't work, just said it's not ideal.
Some frame/drivetrain combos are pretty tolerant of this, others less so.
Didn't say it wouldn't work, just said it's not ideal.
I didn't say that you said it wouldn't work, just that it's not an issue IMO. Chain line shouldn't really vary [i]that [/i]much by frame, BB axle and hub axle being the same an all. I guess if you've got a very flexy back end and/or very short chainstays it may be exacerbated, but you're talking a couple of mm. I used an E.13 XCX ST guide and that didn't rub at all, and there's no fore/aft adjustment.
[url= http://widgit.com.au/products/widgit-for-2-ring-crankset ]a widget ?[/url]
We did those a while back, heavy, expensive, their customer service was dire, and they're not narrow wide.
If its a Sram chainset have you looked at Absolute black rings, they do a direct mount spiderless ring
I've been running a wolf tooth 36t narrow wide ring on my sram x0 2x10 crank for almost a year. No problems at all, just bolted straight on with no issues.
Just fit a spiderless nw ring from AB or wolf tooth which you'll need to import. Assuming you have a removable spider.
Remove your inner chainring & left shifter and add a top chain device. 1x done. No Thick thin / clutch mech etc. needed. While thick thin works its a bit smoke and mirrors too - its not good enough to run without a clutch mech on really rough stuff, and its not as good as a chain device. Its nice and simple if you are starting from scratch, but if you have no clutch or a 9spd set up (so no clutch option) then a chain device is the simplest and most effective option.