[Closed] Can adding weight be better? (thinly disguised photo thread)

You've dropped the BB and lowered the front end on the Singular. That's why it feels different. The fork is supposed to be "twangy".

You're right, obviously, but stiffer feels better to me, that's why I asked, I never said I was right 😉

Also look at the angle of the wall as the pics were taken in different locations, the fork is 14mm lower AC.

There was a similar discussion I was reading this week about the same subject. Basically it went along the lines of lighter isn't always better.

A well designed and though out bike will end up the weight it needs to be. Then again I suppose it depends what sort of riding it's expected to do.

Jedi (UK bike skills) from here's bikes are always really heavy to loft as they are built for a said purpose, but they feel really light to ride, it amazes me every time I get on one of his bikes just how well set up & easy to ride they are.

I had a little play on a mates e bike (heavy beast). It felt really composed on little jumps and didn't feel heavy until you had to push it or pick it up!

It doesn't feel better 'cos it weighs more, it feels better 'cos the fork is better/suited etc.

b r, that's kind of what I was getting at. The weight is what it is when the bike feels right to ride.

When you start changing components on a sorted bike to make it lighter, there's a good chance you'll take away some of what made it good in the first place.

I'm no fan of twangy forks so I can relate to why it might feel better now. Looks a bit steeper and lower, no bad thing for a rigid bike within reason. Really nice looking bike.

Worst MTB I've ridden was the also lightest. Pingy, flighty thing, and I like responsive bikes. Both of the worst perhaps if I include a very light ti frame I rode once. My Ti rigid SS is around 25lb, could be more, and it feels great. Could be 4lb lighter but it's all about where the weight is and what you gain from it. Much also depends on the rider strength and weight, riding style etc. I fit parts based on suitability and have no idea what my bikes weigh but I know I can rely on them and there's no excess fat on them once that reliability or ride quality is taken into account.

Thinking about one of my other bikes that I ride for 3-4 days to over a week at a time while loaded up with ~6kgs, once I get used to it and accept that bunny hops have minimal effect it's a great bike to ride on swoopy downhills or anywhere where you can carry the momentum and I soon adapt to pedalling the extra uphill. Similar thing for my OH's e-bike, she flys over floaty roller jumps on that. On a normal MTB I'd fear for her safety : )

Who cares, they both look better before they got heavier and that's all that matters isn't it?

Who cares, they both look better before they got heavier and that's all that matters isn't it?

Seconded, that first pic looks perfect, I'd have just stopped there and put up with it

I think you have to build to a purpose not a weight. A heavier bike might suit that purpose better (but is unlikely to if it is, say, a hillclimb bike), but all other factors (strength, stiffness, fork performance, size etc.) being equal, a lighter bike will be better.

[i]When you start changing components on a sorted bike to make it lighter, there's a good chance you'll take away some of what made it good in the first place. [/i]

I had my Ti HT very light and it was perfect for the riding I did, Chilterns, Surrey Hills, Swinley and even Cannock with its notorious braking bumps 😉

Then I moved to Scotland and pretty much destroyed every component on it, it's now the best part of 4lbs heavier - but works far better for here.

Sometimes though stronger components aren't heavier. I swapped the Fox 32 talas 150's for Pike 160's on my 26 FS, and the Pikes are actually lighter yet their performance is in a different/better league.