No mechanics near me seem interested in the job, so might give youtube / STW a try. And online shops not getting back to me.
There is about 4mm lateral play in both wheels, from sandy trails.
Can I scatter some questions?
- How do I work out which wheel bearings to buy (Trek powerfly 4 HT)
- what tools do i need?
- where to buy bearings.
- is it easy to mess up?
Firstly cup and cone or cartridge bearings ie shimano hubs or something else?
For cartridge bearings heat is your friend - not a blowtorch but hot water on a rag around the hub expands the hub enough to make removing the bearings esiaer.
Old bearings are drifted out, new ones ( heat the hb again and freeze the bearings drift or push in. Its important to only put pressure on the outer race of the bearing - a big socket can do this
If you cannot find online what the bearings are once yo take them out its marked on them
Any pics of the hub?
Definitely you can, yes!
YouTube, proper prep (get all the tools you need, grease, kitchen roll/shop towel etc) and patience. Watch the video first a couple times.
Get it all setup, and get a cup of tea, and give it a go!
It's actually way easier than you think, and very satisfying to complete.
There's stacks of video tutorials on YYouTube, so pick your favourite. Parktools or GMBN would be a good place. Doddy is really great at explaining, and he clearly loves every minute of it!
Everyone who can do this (which is most of us on here I would guess) once couldn't, it's not a particularly difficult task, just a matter of getting the confidence to attempt it.
If you are local to Galashiels/Peebles you are welcome to come round and do it here, I've done a fair few and have the tools (not the proper ones, but ones which work, sockets as per someone above, and a bench vice I use as a press) I do have proper cone spanners if it's one of those.
Aye go for it, if you've got 4mm play in there and have been running the wheels like that, and the bearings are cup and cone... The cups/cones will probably be pitted to some degree. Which doesn't mean they aren't useable. just means you'll never get them as smooth as they once were.
But yes, go for it, think of it as the start of your home mechanics journey. 🙂
Just googled your bike and it infers the front wheel might be cup/cone and the rear cartridge.lol
In a way, that could be good as you will learn how to service both bearing types.lol
On a general note and as said already.... it is an eminently doable diy job BUT you will likely have to bodge a few tools, such as using sockets to press in cartridge bearings etc... Or might need to buy cone spanners to adjust a cup/cone system. The thing is, it's an investment. Once you buy the tools you need, you will be able to service your bikes hubs for as long as you have it and likely the bikes you have after.
Servicing wheel bearings is a gateway drug.
Once you do it you will realise that repairing your own bike is not a dark art. It is doable and even better, genuinely satisfying and money saving! Before you know it you'll be replacing headsets and servicing fork lowers etc too.
Important: Never attempt doing a job like this if you need the bike in a hurry or when the local tool/bike shops are closed on a Sunday. Secondly, take picture of the parts as you strip them down.... showing the order of the parts as you take them off etc. Smart phones are a boon for this sort of thing and this applies to stripping down any part off the bike.
EDIT:
(You have an e bike so there are parts you will likely never be able to dabble with, but the rest? Given patience, YouTube, here and some of the right tools.... it's all good.)
In addition to servicing your wheels, you might keep an eye out for a new or used set of wheels that are in good condition. That means if you have any trouble with the service you can still get out on the bike. As already said, 4mm play in sandy conditions could have caused damage to the bearing surfaces. No problem at the rear as you replace the whole cartridge but in the front if the hub cup is pitted you might need a new hub and it will often be easier simply to replace the whole wheel
If it is correct that you have cup and cone bearings up front and cartridge bearings at the rear, for a service you will need.
Set of cone spanners, 3/16 bearings and grease for the front.
Ghetto cartridge removal using a large flat screw driver (used as lever and a drift), a socket and a mallet for installation, plus the right cartridge bearings, possibly 6903-2rs according to some online technical drawings. You can confirm by inspecting the bearing once the wheel is out, the code is usually marked on the seal.
For the cartridge bearing wheel,
I made a ghetto bearing press. A short length of threaded rod (m8 will do or bigger), washers and m8 nuts.
Use the old cartridge bearings as a drift (press) once I'd puncged them out, then stack some larger washers behind that, then some smaller washers, then finally the nut. The washers help keep it even. Slide that through the axle. The on the other side, slide the other old bearing on, then some large washers, some smaller washers and then a nut. Two 13mm spanners, on either side, slowly wind it up, bingo!
Similar principle to this
