[Closed] Calling Canyon dude owner or

Surely you just need the correct adaptor. Post a pic of your rear brake.

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/disc-brake-adaptor.htm

Type 4 is the one (let someone double check my work though).

I wish it was that simply there are two dropouts in the rear of the frame allowing the rear wheel to take a 4inch and 5 inch tyre in the 4 inch position the rotor has just enough clearance for a 160 ,i think a 180 would catch the frame hence the second dropout

I didnt think the dude was designed for 180mm rotors, hence no help from Canyon it 8s an 'xc' carbon fat bike after all....

You need more stopping power?.....
Are your fingers getting tired?
I take it your brakes are in good condition and have been bled recently? Could you not just change the pads for some sintered/metallic ones?

I don't have a Dude, so don't quote me on this, but I think I read somewhere that it would only take a 180mm rotor in the rear position i.e. if you want the shorter chainstays you are limited to 160mm. If you want to run a 180 then I think you just use the rear dropout position and leave the caliper where it is. If you move the caliper to the other mounts then I think that is for a 160mm rotor in the rear position. But again, don't quote me as it's all just hearsay.

I'm using a 160mm rear rotor on my (much heavier) ICT (Hope X2 brakes) and I can still lock the rear up with one finger, but if you want 180mm rotors on the rear of the Dude I'm pretty sure it can be done.

I would ask the question over on our German friends forum. There's a long thread on there just for the dude.
I used google translate to translate my English to German and then post it.
Chrome will translate the page to English.
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/der-dicke-canyon-dude-galerie-und-technikthread.722544/

The brakes have been bled and the pads are all in good condition , just my personal taste with braking power.

Thanks Goldigger I will have a look by as my guess is that I will have to use the furthest rear dropouts ...more the excuse to buy some 4.8s 🙂

Taking the wheel out the 160 rotor normally bangs on the frame, probably why there is that metal patch on the inside of the stay.

I've just tried it with a 180 rotor, it clears the stays by about 1mm With the wheel in the shortest wheelbase position.

By the only way to get the wheel in and out is to undo the screw that bolts the rear much to the frame and remove the dropout plug.

Edit.
No need to remove the dropout plug..just undo the Bolt that holds the rear much to the frame so that you can slide it from the rear forward when putting the wheel back in.

Fantastic trail slayer just need more stopping power even with xt brakes

Upgrading my brakes to SRAM Guide RSCs was perhaps the best upgrade on my fatbike. There's a bit of heft in those wheels, even when tubeless so takes some controlling.

Disks on order and will be sorting over the weekend , the bike is beyond fun and the forum I was linked to a great help

thanks
S.