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Got a replacement front Caliper from Sram which I am fitting. Need to bleed etc.
I have also replaced front disc which has the torque numbers on.
But no idea what torque the post mount adaptor and then Caliper need to be set at?
Looking at the many pages of the manuals and probably passed it a number of times but not seen it!
If it's not stated, assume AF* is a generally accepted industry standard.
*as ****
In the absence of any instructions I’d go 8Nm
From Park tool (IN-LB)
Shimano 53–69
Avid® 80–90
Magura® 51
8nm is the usual torque for caliper and adapters, 9nm max.
Hope recommend 8-9nm
Avid 9-10nm,
Sram bought Avid brakes so sram are basically avid.
I'd stick to 8nm.
If it is a front brake you need to be careful of over torquing the fork post mount threads. I think Fox limit it to 10 Nm, but suggest you check the fork manufacturer's recommendations. It is possible to strip the threads which is not good!
Small bolt into magnesium.
To paraphrase Arthur Ransome: better crash and burn than Dunning-krüger; if not Dunning-kruger won't crash and burn.
My own: Torque wrenches do not exist to make incompetent mechanics competent. They exist to allow competent mechanics to mechanic competently.
Most of us smug b*stards who feel confident in our competence have made our mistakes already (or Dunning-Krüger)
The beginnings of mechanical competence come from simple principles: If you're tightening a small diameter bolt, use a small lever. If you're tightening a large bolt, use a large lever. You will feel what's going on. The answer is to nip up with an appropriate sized lever and then consider torquing but with an expectation that the fastener is already about there and will only move between 1 and 5 degrees (all fasteners on bikes are short).
Torque wrenches are often (not always) large levers. Don't use large lever click type torque wrenches on small bolts.
Torque is always specified with a range. Always use the lower end of the range. Undershoot the recommended torque to start with. If the bolt is 'set' at 80% of the target torque and didn't rotate much from nipped up to 80%, it *must* not rotate much in the final 20%.
If you do insist on torquing to the arbitrary number given by the manufacturer look at the torque values for the entire bike and note the discrepancies. e.g. Bolts going into different materials with blanket torque values.
Appreciate that torque is supposed to be setting fastener stretch and preloading the joint. But bolts on bikes are usually fastening over very short distances and stretch/compression strains are miniscule. Friction in real life does not resemble laboratory conditions.
As the entire scenario is riddled with challenge, resort to recommendation no. 1. If small bolt small lever. Nip up. QT usually the answer. FT has no place on bikes and usually means you're using the wrong length lever.
Fascinating, do go on.