[Closed] Calibre Bossnut - Potential problem

Hi all,
I can confirm that [b]ALL[/b] the 19" Calibre Bossnuts are now being recalled. I purchased mine a couple of weeks ago (Lakeside branch) and actually had a separate wheel-related issue. After reading through this thread, I also discovered that my Bossnutt had exactly the same frame issue (even though it was the newer "upgraded" paintjob). Go Outdoors at Lakeside have been very helpful and one of their guys has actually driven down to me to pick the bike up/deliver it back (2 hour round trip) on 3 occasions now. The bike went back for the last time today and I was told that they had received an email from head-office confirming the recall. I am receiving a full refund. It only appears to be the 19's that are affected but it's ALL of them - not just some I'm told. My advice: get onto the store from which you purchased the bike and get yourself a refund. I am toying with the idea of sizing up to the large frame, but am also very tempted by the Boardman FS Pro which is massively discounted (if you use BC membership card).

@chrispianlee cheers for the update. Strange how yours is using the full travel of the shock and mine isn't. I'm worried that when I actually ride the bike then it will use a few more mm travel than what it does when its deflated. The rear tyre only has a few mm clearance at the moment so if the shock does use up slightly more travel then the tyre will probably carry on rubbing.

They look to still be selling them online....

I havent ridden mine yet as got a broken wrist. Hopefully it will be ok when I do...:o)

Just back from Inverness GO outdoors store where they gave me a replacement bike( I kept my rims as I had converted to tubeless). I has 2 faults with mine.
1 The rear shock had collapsed and even when fully pressurized it would only come out a half inch.
2 This highlighted that the rear wheel rubbed the frame when fully compressed. This was a surprise to the bike tech as he was only aware of the issue affecting 19" frames and mine is a 21".

The customer service I received was brilliant. I was informed they usually just take all your bike parts and put them on a new frame but since I traveled 2.5 hrs to get to the store they offered me a swap for a brand new bike.

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Downtube angle is slacker on larger bikes which makes stroke less progressive at the end and increases travel for a given stroke of shock. This might be what the issue is.

@fastfunkier just to confirm there is no recall we have still only had 12 bikes with this issue. it does appear that some issues are down to the stroke of the Monarch rear shock moving more than 51mm that they should, but the main problem as i've stated is that the front mount was welded slightly too far forward.

if you have any direct question please contact me mike.sanderson@gooutdoors.co.uk

cheers guys, we will get these issues fixed and none more than me are upset that this has happened - but were not the first and i'm sure not the last bike company to face an issue

Cheers,
Mike

It's not the inevitable problems that you face, but how you go about sorting them out thats either the making or breaking of you

@ulysee yes totally understand and its causing me no end of heartache reading these posts - that's why i've given you my direct email so i can personally get them fixed as it appears you've been getting varied aftercare.

as i say i'm gutted that you've had these issues and i will do my best to fix them for you

Cheers,
Mike

I have just picked up my Bossnut with replacement frame from the Cardiff store and have to say that the service has been excellent. Ok, there was a little confusion initially wrt pumping up the shock to overcome the bottoming out but once over that (helped by this thread and the MBR letters) The service has been great. A replacement frame was sent to the store but unfortunately it had a paint chip on the head tube. There was quite a delay on another frame but Chris who was dealing with it suggested that he repaint the chip as a possible alternative. I have to say that he did a great job and he went over and above anything I expected. I accepted the unique paint job. It is the Fluor yellow frame which I think looks better. The rear wheel is pretty close when the shock is fully compressed but not touching. My shock is a 51mm and it also has ~2mm of bumper travel at the end travel with ~49mm of free travel.
Ps the beeline tyre is a swine to get off the rim (so much so that I failed to get the tyre off after a puncture out in the trail). The WTB rim has 2channels inside the rim which lock the tyre in place which means a great seal but you can't get a tyre lever in there!

I have gone for a refund, the new frame was doing the exact same thing or tyre touching frame when shock deflated. The store said they would put the bike on sale as ex demo! Just don't know what to say.. Was another poor mug in shop picking faulty version up when I returned mine, GO Outdoors seem to have no real sense of the fact that this issue could be v dangerous and cause an injury..

Hi All,

Found this posting due to noticing my tire touching the frame when air out of shock! Mine is a Large frame and still has the problem like the Medium frame. With my weight on the bike the wheel locks out! I put the Gorilla guard on, this helps with some less binding if the inevitable happens on a ride.

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Going to contact the supplier.

Welcome to the club 🙁

Still waiting and thinking here 6 months on.

Since my last post 2 weeks ago, I contacted Mike Sanderson via email to say, I have the same issue, and copied him in on my photos, I had a very quick response from him, he said to let him know when I was taking my bike into Go-Outdoors, so that he could give them the heads up I was bringing my bike in.

Mike explained that there are two options for a fix, 1) A tyre that measures lower on the profile, and 2)the new offset boss as discussed on here. As it turned out taking the bike would have been difficult for me due to time constraints, I mentioned this to Mike, so he sent the boss to me for me to fit myself.

Today I had time to fit the offset boss, you can see the offset quite clearly just looking at it, once it was installed there is around a 2mm clearance from the frame, when all the air is out of the shock, not easy to see in the picture attached, but it is there.(Still have Gorilla guard on)

I have peace of mind now, knowing there is less chance of the tyre binding if the shock did ever give up, my rides are not so full on with big air, so there should not be an issue for me, I did buy the bike for trail riding as it was designed for, but happily do all the runs in the FOD.

Having used Cube hard tails before going full sus, this Bossnut, has made it a much more comfortable ride and a lot faster for me, and at a very low price compared to the other brands, I enjoy it and don't see a need for anything else, that is until I wear it out.

So thanks Mike for your speedy support, makes a nice change having someone actually care about the customer for once.

P.S If you don't have the correct tools, I don't recommend you changing out the offset boss yourselves, as they need to be pressed out and back in with 100% alignment.

Went out on the Bossnut again at the weekend, fantastic bike to ride.

But. I've just noticed that the shock on the current one (no 3) is sat in the sag markers with the shock pumped up. I'm losing heart now, combined with the fact that my dropper is also giving me grief I'm tempted to send the lot back and get something else.

Hi all, I had the same problem with my bossnut after reading these posts i thought instead of messing around ill just email mike direct. I got a response the next morning. He told me that it was an issue with the beeline tyre being to tall. Sent me out a new one within 24hrs, I got it fitted on the bike and problem solved. From first email on Sunday to being fixed was less that 72hrs. Cant knock that for customer service. Not only that the bike is amazing for the price as well. Back out there this weekend to smash the trails with confidence in my bike! p.s the tyre is now a 2.25 nobby nic

Lol. I wouldnt be accepting that explanation given all the other posts in this thread.

If i was an owner i would have my money back. Unfit for purpose.

Unfit for purpose?.....what purpose would that be then? There was a Bossnutt going great guns at Antur yesterday embarrassing many so called boutique brands....even looked good too!

Have you read the thread?

Yeah, because none of the major players have ever had any QC issues have they cough (Evil) cough.....

I'd be happy enough- as long as the tyre doesn't touch the frame then it's problem sorted isn't it?Tyre choice is obviously going to be limited but if he's happy with the Nobby Nic then why return the bike,? there's not much else that competes for £899 is there?

I wouldn't go for a different tyre tbh, good to hear the nobby nic fits though, but I don't want to be limited to a tiny tyre forever.

Not long now til my updated one comes out hopefully. I cannae wait. Roll on summer.

Exactly. They specced the bike with a tyre that stops it working properly, or is it the shock, or the shock mounts, i have lost track of all their explanations.

But if it doesnt work properly with the parts they specced, then to me that is the definition of not fit for purpose. It should be able to get full travel.

As for the price, and other companies having issues, that makes no difference.

It wasn't 899 pound or whatever, advertised as not being able to get full travel and needing a different tyre was it.

It was 5k and had these problems people would be making excuses about 'character'.....

nairnster - Member
Exactly. They specced the bike with a tyre that stops it working properly, or is it the shock, or the shock mounts, i have lost track of all their explanations.

But they have rectified the problem . I'm sure that they don't guarantee that the bike will take 2.5 tyres and if it had come fitted with the Nobby Nicks there would have been no problem so what is there to complain about . Not a lot of tyre clearance on most of the Whyte range but they seem to be flavour of the month with the mags for the last few years .

This is what I noticed mid week

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God knows what's up with this, whether it's the frame or the shock causing this. I rode it last weekend and didn't bottom it out (I'm running a bit more air in it than I'd like though until the clearance is sorted) I assume I'm not getting full travel though.

I do love it, would I miss the squish if I went back to a hardtail to remove the extra hassle from my life?

People have had the rubbing with the stock wtb beeline tyre. So that's the issue.

If you buy something new, as standard, it should work properly.

That's a build up of pressure in the negative chamber.

An easy fix?

Edit - makes sense actually, it wouldn't extend when there was no air in it. I'll have a google. Still fairly new to the full suss thing.

Have a look at my earlier post prawny. I had my rear shock go completly. When I took the shock off it wouldn't extend at all when all air was released. This also highlighted that the large frames also had an issue with tyre rub. Inverness store replaced bike with the new style paintwork on the spot. I kept my rims as they were converted to tubeless.

Looking forward to the better weather so I can get out on it!

Before I start another what bike thread, I'll ask on here.

There's 10% off the Sonder transmitters and the Boardman Team FS at the moment putting them at the same price as the Bossnut.

I'm really tempted to sack off the short full suss experiment and go half fat, after deciding against a fatty a few weeks ago. Any thoughts?

Part of me wants to keep the Bossnut but I'm concerned about the cost of any future shock/frame issues when the warranty is up, also is be able to use a water bottle again which would be nice.

Im selling my mint condition 2017 medium bossnut frame only ridden on road twice if anyones interested. Its a replacement frame with the correct bush/rear shock mounting. Im selling as bought a hard tail frame and put all components off bossnut on it.
Im also selling the 130mm (5.1in) travel RockShox Monarch R rear shock (190mm 51) also. Call me and make me a sensible offer if interested 07971329827

Bike and shocks sold now....

prawny - An easy fix?

As you pump the shock up, stop occasionally then compress and depress it to balance out the air chambers. Nothing to do with the bike, just user error* with the shock.

Rs Monarchs are pretty bombproof so I wouldn't worry about future problems

*although it's not obvious till you know 🙂

I have found an even worse problem on mine and that is both wheel rims are cracked right across the rim where they have been welded in manufacture.
I have only ridden the bike 6 times and I decided to go tubeless as the wheels were tubeless ready.I set about doing the front wheel first put Stans tape on it a new tubeless valve fluid sealant in pumped it up and the air came out almost as fast as it went in.on checking i found the rim to be cracked at a right angle across the rim and on checking the rear wheel that is cracked in exactly the same place as the front.
My main worry is that I would still be riding it if I hadn't taken the tube out and that the problem had not come to light.I am thinking should I have had some heavy impact, it is possible the wheel could collapse with catastrophic results.
After all this I still love the bike it is great value for money but the safety side of it now makes me a bit uneasy.
I think perhaps any 2016/2017 Bossnut owners to check their rims ( if you use your fingernail on the edge of the rim you will feel the crack which travels across to the other side.

Are you sure it's a weld that cracked many cheap rims are not welded on the join only pinned on the inside of the extrusion.

And on a double wall rim of the tapes on properly air should not find its way into the cavity anyway

i found the rim to be cracked at a right angle across the rim and on checking the rear wheel that is cracked in exactly the same place as the front.

Unless you can see daylight through this "crack", it's not an issue. All you've found is the joint on the rims.

If the tyres are slack on the rims, try another layer of tape. If they're already a tight fit, you might need more sealant, or to use a compressor or Airshot type device to get the tyres to pop on

They're i23 rims, I don't think they're welded whack some tape and sealant in and they should seal up with a bit of effort

What's the tune of the monarch that comes stock on the bike?
Also, do you think there's enough space for a 150mm dropper post on the 19.5in? (I'm about 6'1")

Thanks

Not sure on the shock tune, but it's fairly slow. All the reviews recommend running everything open, not sure about compression at the bottom end as I had to run it slightly harder than I'd like to keep the wheel off the frame.

495mm seat tube would put paid to a 150mm dropper I'd have thought. Unless you've got loooong legs, I'm 5'10.5 (.5 is important) and I don't know if I'd have been able to get 125mm on. Not too many options with external routing either are there?

Not sure it's much help but I'm 5'10 and running a 125 drop reverb with a couple of cm out of the large frame.

Large! I must have dwarf legs, I wouldn't have been able to get my 100mm drop KS eten on a medium.

I do wonder sometimes who uses these massive long posts. I could get a 150mm reverb on my new vitus, but I was between sizes on that, if it had been a full suss I'd have gone for the bigger one.

Thanks for the responses, I think I'll go with a 125mm and not chance it.

Was asking about the tune (mm, hl, ml, etc) cause I was considering throwing a monarch plus debonair on there and wanted to match up the tunes.

Plenty of options for external routing: reverb, ks, the new fox transfer, and I think 9point8 just came out with one or is about to.

This is surely a shocking indictment on the Benefits System that people can both buy a Calibre bike [i]AND[/i] pay for broadband.

Different issues but what looks like a crack where mini triangle meets top tube, bloke in the shop forwarded these pics to Mike Sanderson who suggests that its probably the putty surrounding the weld?? Or that I have been running too little seatpost... This sounds like a contradiction to me, putty crack or frame cracking due to seatpost set up.... Have emailed customer service and am waiting on feedback, hopefully get this sorted, it's a lovely bike to ride. [img] https://flic.kr/p/TgPPnd [/img] [img] https://flic.kr/p/SC5vRT [/img]

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[img] https://flic.kr/p/SC5vRT [/img]

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Cheers Tillydog....

It looks like "it" is a result front/back flexing of the seat tube.

"It" could be cracks in the filler.

Is/was your seatpost long enough to go past the seat tube / top tube joint?

My £0.02, anyway 🙂

That doesn't look good!

How much seat post is past that brace would be my first question. That's usually the problem with these. Could just be a failure though.

Seatpost is probably 2/3 cm past the brace I'd guess...

First post on the forum and I wish I was say how good my calibre bike is but I can't. Purchase the new beastnut and within 5 mins the chain had come off and stuck behind the low gear. Fixed it went for a ride and again it came off. Freed the chain but the derailleur had gone slack. Had the bike less then two hours and road about 30 minutes before having to going back to gooutdoors and when I did the Wakefield store was so unhelpful. Looking into it I don't think the high/low adjustment screws hadn't been set....so much for a full PDI 🙁

Welcome to the forum mate!

Sorry to hear you've had some issues.

As you say, it's almost definitely a set up issue with the limit screws. Cable will no doubt need adjusting to some degree too.

Not the end of the world but I get your frustration.

I've had some expensive bikes give similar issues right out of the shop over the years.

It's one essential piece of fettling you need to know how to do yourself at some point. Even if set up perfectly once cables stretch and things bed in the shifting will go out of kilter at some point. That's forgetting mud and normal wear and tear.

Definitely not sticking up for shoddy PDI's but I've set up gears on a bike stand that shift to perfection only to find they behave totally different under load when being ridden.

That said,I will always tend to have the limit screws set in a little "pessimistically" initially to make double certain it doesn't throw the chain off. I then let the limit screws out a little at a time as necessary, adjusting indexing as needed till shifting is precise and reliable with the chain still behaving itself.

Plenty of guides and videos online about it. Everyone does the adjustments slightly differently but the fundamentals are the same.

Good luck with getting the bike sorted. I don't own one but it's a great bike for the money by all accounts!

Go Outdoors needs better training.... alarm bells should have rung when picking up the bike and during setting up the sag for the rear shock she had to call the technician who was off sick because sh didn't known what to do...she was really helpful but just didn't know. At the time I didn't have a clue but I've learnt a lot in the last 24 hours.

richmorr - Member

Go Outdoors needs better training.... alarm bells should have rung when picking up the bike and during setting up the sag for the rear shock she had to call the technician who was off sick because sh didn't known what to do...she was really helpful but just didn't know. At the time I didn't have a clue but I've learnt a lot in the last 24 hours.

Hmmm... not good or confidence inspiring.

What is the bike like now, gears sorted?

Well worth buying a shock pump if you don't have one. You will definitely want to tinker with air pressures. 🙂

It came back yesterday and it seems to be fixed the gears are not jumping...the store luckily had a technician from another store in to train and he fixed it. test is tomorrow as I'm off the sherwood pines 🙂

Great news bud!

The drive train will bed in a bit so don't be surprised if the crisp shifting deteriorates slightly.

Then either take back to the shop or decide whether to have a dabble yourself. I was lucky as I learnt to index gears from a pretty experienced guy back in the day.

That's the best way to learn, from example. These days YouTube might, might suffice... 😉

The beastnut lived up to its name today. Had so much fun and shaved 45mins of my time at sherwood pines compare to my 13 year old mtb with bust suspension . Not sure if it’s been set up right like you said it doesn’t feel as crisp but it has a 6 weeks service in August not sure if I fancy playing with the gears yet. First impression I like it.

Great mate!

Sound like you've got off to a great start.

You must post pics of bike and the ride though.

It's the "law" on here! 😀 😉

I'll get some pics taken n post them up

A few pic of the beastnut

https://ibb.co/eQ5oqF
https://ibb.co/bG7q4a
https://ibb.co/mKpsHv

Nice looking bike bud, you must be chuffed!

You'll get a bit of flack from some for keeping the defectors on your pedals though. 😉 Not by me though. If you ride to your trails they can be useful!

Are they the pedals that came with it? If so you might be looking for better ones at some point anyway. One of the best and cheapest upgrades to a bike I think!

Again, great looking bike mate, need to get it muddy now. 😀

If possible in this great weather at the moment! Lol

Haha funny you should say that my mate who I ride with been taking the michael about the pedals. It's the first upgrade I'm doing....next payday. Proper chuffed with so much fun too.

Yeah, the pedals...

It's a "thing" in mtb to many.lol

You going to be sticking with flats or going to try mastering the dark of clipless? 😀

no no no not clipless sticking to flats for now. Do you recommend any?

Both have merits but I only ride flats now.

Plastic peaks are popular at the moment.

Light, cheap(ish) and don't look totally rubbish after being scratched/ having chunks removed from them.

Worth looking at Nukeproof ones and there are many others that use the same/similar pedal and just re-brand them.

I recently got a set from China as they were so cheap and look/seem identical to the branded ones. Could of weeks to arrive from eBay seller. Not tried them yet though!

Will find the thread... Brb

[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/those-cheap-14-electron-ish-type-plastic-pedals-arrived-todaypics ]Chinese pedals from eBay[/url]

Thx mate they look ok the ones on eBay...saw some nuke proof pedals at go outdoors when I got the bike and they weren't to badly priced.

Just make sue you put a dab of thread lock on the pedal pins, whatever the Brand.

Lost 3 on first ride with the Nukeproofs fitted. Lol

That's not a bad looking bike at all - are they about £2300 or am I making that up? The frame looks pretty chunky vs the forks - are they revelations? I had 150mm revs on my last bike and they were pretty good in fairness. 1x11'NX by the look of it too - that's great value for money.

The bike is £1299. It's got sram nx and sram re brakes. It's got the revelation with 140mm and it the monarch r at the back. Value for money I did think it was too bad for full suspension what sold it for me I've the bossnut v2 was the dropper post. I've not got much comparison but it rides really nice.

richmorr ...sram re brakes...

Nice.

You wont be lacking in braking power for sure! 🙂

It can definitely stop...which is good I need to build my up skills. At lady cannings I got taken by surprise a few times with a quick bend. Not road in the years.