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Fitted my new CodeRs on Friday... absolutely LOVED them and really happy. Apart from one minor issue.. the cable is a bit on the snug side.
Due to internal channel routing on the frame my rear brake comes out of the RHS of the frame, therefore looping around the headstock and over to the left hand side of bars.
When i turn the bars i can turn it a full 90deg, but it's pretty tight at this point. So i'm thinking maybe i need to recable it ? Obviously from a purely riding perspective i'll never turn the bars more than 90deg lol. But off the bike due to crashing or something, it can of course happen.
So, how short is too short and how much slack do you run ?
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52694552219_62c2f6f564_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52694552219_62c2f6f564_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ohrmwp ]2023-02-17_02-24-12[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Could you use some of the massive excess on your dropper post to extend it 😉
The brake does look shorter than I’d be happy with
I wouldn’t choose to run it like that but I’d leave it rather than pay for a new hose. Stick some protector on to stop any rub
Get a headset with a stop to prevent the bars rotating too far - Acros blocklock or similar?
I wouldn’t choose to run it like that but I’d leave it rather than pay for a new hose.
Wiggle have a hose for £20, so not exactly breaking the budget.
Get a headset with a stop to prevent the bars rotating too far – Acros blocklock or similar?
65+ quid to save less than 20quid for a new hose ? Seems illogical although I can appreciate some folk would do that rather than have an internal routed hose for some reason
That’s too tight. You want it turned 90 and still not touch the head tube. I know because I have a spare hose to replace mine that’s too short 😡
The routing of it is OK as the through channel in the frame means there's no fishing it out at the top/headstock. It goes in and comes out of the hole directly. Admittedly the bottom routing from swingarm to the frame by BB is a bit more fiddly, but it's 5 mins rather than an hour. So the cabling aspect isn't the game-changer 😀
Wiggle have a hose for £20, so not exactly breaking the budget.
Then change it, keep the old as a spare front.
That cable route looks wrong to me. A quick google to check my hypothesis and all the images I can find of that frame have the rear brake on the other side ?
That's US/Euro.
We're on the other side 🙂
Is the new hose definitely longer than what came on your brake? Normally you get a long hose on a new rear brake and I’ve always had to trim it. Not like your bike is a big size so it seems a bit odd. There isn’t some hose all snagged up inside the frame routing is there?
If you can get a longer hose then I’d go for it as that is a bit tight. The barbs / olives are always nice and easy to fit on codes given they screw in / together. I hate the Shimano ones that you sort of have to push / tap in.
Is the new hose definitely longer than what came on your brake? Normally you get a long hose on a new rear brake and I’ve always had to trim it. Not like your bike is a big size so it seems a bit odd. There isn’t some hose all snagged up inside the frame routing is there?
Yes, 30cm longer on the new hose.
They were used, so have obviously been trimmed before.
Deffo not snagged, there's only 1 route it can follow and internally defined.
That’s US/Euro.
We’re on the other side 🙂
I am aware of that 🙂
However are they really making different framesets for different regions with different internal cabling ?
Edit:
Sorry; as you were 😀 - Go buy a longer hose !
However are they really making different framesets for different regions with different internal cabling ?
No, but i think they change the little plastic/rubber 'guide' on the frame.
At the insertion point i have a rubber thing which has 'brake' and 'shifter' sort of printed/pressed into it... That then shows the hole you go into for each. The brake on mine, routes up and out of the RHS of the frame... i bet if you flip that, it puts them on the opposite sides..
Actually - that’s a fair point. My transition has the brake hose route down the left hand side of the frame (externally, which is nice 😊) - even though the brake is also on the left hand side. I guess the design is mainly for euro / us setup but they use the same frame for uk.
Could you go into the frame on the left hand side from the left hand lever - I.e are the hoses / cables loose in the frame and so it doesn’t matter which side they go in? Just stick a bit of 3M tape on the headtube to make sure there isn’t any rubbing of paint. I don’t think I have a picture to hand that close up shows how it goes on my bike.
Edit - actually - tell a lie - here’s one:
[url= https://i.postimg.cc/13Lp2HfK/072DCCCB-DBD7-4846-9FBD-1BC03BCF2A66.pn g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/13Lp2HfK/072DCCCB-DBD7-4846-9FBD-1BC03BCF2A66.pn g"/> [/img][/url]
Could you go into the frame on the left hand side from the left hand lever
I could i guess, but i'd have to remove the rear shifter cable first and swap them over in that way.
However are they really making different framesets for different regions with different internal cabling ?
Edit:
Looks like they are.
Sorry; as you were 😀 – Go buy a longer hose !
I'm sure they arent producing different frames, it must be an option to do it.
Convresely my Santa Cruz only has brake hose on the left (intended for weirdo US/euro brakers) so my hose comes out the left side of the frame and up to the left handlebar. It may not give beautiful cable loops when parked up but does avoid the too short hose causing damage in a crash.
Of course, the real solution is to buy a bike where the headset prevents over rotation. I believe a Trek FuelEX would fit the bill...
Of course, the real solution is to buy a bike where the headset prevents over rotation. I believe a Trek FuelEX would fit the bill
😀 😀 😀
It’s definitely an excuse for a new bike - it’s been at least a few weeks now Weeksy 🤣
Yeah, too short. Get a longer hose. I would do that instead of routing it down the L side. Barely much difference in work required.
It’s definitely an excuse for a new bike – it’s been at least a few weeks now Weeksy
It has yes... but, i'll put it out there "best bike ever" this Slayer... it's absolutely superb.
It's funny cos the rest of your cables look way too long 😀
Seriously though, I'd try routing it through the other side of the frame. Do the swap with the rear shifter.
Or buy the new one 🙂
To be fair; I've just had a look; every single bike in my possession has the brake line/cable routed down the left side of the headset !
It would be too short for me to be happy with. As others have said you could run it down the non drive side and it would work.
Unless you run AXS the Turbo Levos we have come with the rear brake down the non drive side I think to accommodate the extra motor cable and dropper cable down the drive side. Never had a problem with them.
Ordered new one from Wiggle.
Hopefully the caliper end banjo is correct 🙂
Hopefully the caliper end banjo is correct
Wouldn't you check that before ordering!? I had to get the spare for my Guide RS from one of the euro sites (bikeinn I think) cos the correct one wasn't available anywhere else.
Ah, I see you've gone for the Lifeline kit. Should be ok then
haha wow - those cables are long, mine are at least double the shortness of the OG's post, i cant be doing with long slapping around cables, mine probably are borderline too short, but even still ive not crashed to find out what would happen, mine just about spin fully either way, but its on the border of that
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-brake-hose-kit
Spec 5- Avid/SRAM Straight- 90 Deg Kit MONOBLOCK- Fitment for SRAM Code, Red & Force
1.8M x Black Hose with monoblock banjo pre-assembled- ID=2.1mm/ OD= 5mm
1M x Black Hose with monoblock banjo pre-assembled- ID=2.1mm/ OD= 5mm
2 x M8x0.75 Stainless Nuts (MTB lever end)
2 x Stainless Inserts
2 x Alloy Threaded Olives
Seems to be the one i need.
mazz91
· 9 months ago
Will Spec 5- Avid/SRAM Straight- 90 Deg Kit MONOBLOCK- fit Sram Code R (B1) calipers. It does'nt specify which model Code they fit.
1
answer
Answer this Question
Adam C · 3 months ago
This will be suitable for Ultimate, Level TLM, Code R/RSC B1
Pic of the routing ports.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700448231_a14445be38_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700448231_a14445be38_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ohXzcM ]2023-02-20_03-32-44[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
So i noticed there's a 3rd hole.
Routing a gear cable through hole three
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700709634_c24cd7e3b3_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700709634_c24cd7e3b3_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ohYUUJ ]2023-02-20_03-32-37[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
Shows that it pops out on the left instead.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700447861_f791d71bf8_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700447861_f791d71bf8_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ohXz6p ]2023-02-20_03-32-33[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
and works pretty effectively.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700709154_a8674572b6_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700709154_a8674572b6_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2ohYULs ]2023-02-20_03-32-26[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/152318156@N08/ ]Steve Weeks[/url], on Flickr
There toldja! 😀
👍
Change it.
You'll end up ripping the hose out I'm a crash. And that will then cost even more if the lever is knackered as a result.
Also it's surprising how often the bars do inadvertently turn 90 degrees or more, eg in the car etc.
(I had a too-short shifter cable on a bike once. Thought I'd never have the bars go too far around. Happened all the time in reality and I'd damage the levers or even the rear mech overloading it).
Fitted my new CodeRs on Friday… absolutely LOVED them and really happy. Apart from one<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;"> minor issue.. the cable is a bit on the snug side.</span>
Are they the ones that were on offer from CRC ? https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-code-r-disc-brake/rp-prod159536
Nah mate, eBay. Didn't see tjose
In the past I always ran cables n hoses down the side instead of around the headtube, a lot of pro mechanics do this to keep the lengths as short as possible, as long as there's decent frame protection to stop any paint rub and there's enough length to turn the bars past the toptube it should be fine, if not change the hose.
I found it difficult to get a replacement hose for less than £35, and they are different from Guide hose.
Swap it .....its too short. Couldn't do with it run the way you've moved it too rubbing up against the headtube .would do my head in