[Closed] C456 owners- those shonky looking plate rear drop outs.

No, don't trust them.

Put the frame on the classifieds... 😉

hora, you do realise, the 1st time you ride your 456 offroad on anything rocky, you will feel like you have been bummed by a big gorilla........ 😀

Christ - the seed of doubt is there in his mind. Anyone want a 456? Check the classifieds in a fortnight.

I think you may be exceeding the max frame weight for a starter? 😀 Hope you're not putting them massive Zocchis on it as well? I think this could lead to "Hard core Hard Tail Fail" 😀 .... see you Sunday amigo.

2 year warranty surely?

😯

One years warranty for good reason?!

Like that matters! 🙂

hora - email in profile when you are ready 🙂

C456 bolt on drop outs don't wobble. Ususally they are a bitch to fit as they are quite tight. When fitted they feel bonded to the frame and don't come loose at all easily. If yours are loose try checking the screw tightness without the dropout fitted.

Think yourself lucky to have gotten those plates and bolts, not everyone is so lucky. Makes fitting a mech and the wheels a right pita! 🙂 What happens when you put both bolts in and tighten it up? If its still loose then you've got bother.

Frame is brand new/unbuilt. Definitely not snug. Over time that'd create wear wear if not retorqued. I looked the frame over/inspected.

Wont matter yer frames to small anyway . Was probably a minicab before

Was probably a minicab before

C456 - Yes its 2yrs. Unbuilt it just seems so bloody flimsy. The rear dropouts are literally perched on at the very end via the 4 bolts. Just makes you feel a wee bit nervous. The rest of the frame - the finish is spot on. I can't fault it anywhere.

Wont matter yer frames to small anyway .

Aren't Hora's frames normally too large, with him wishing he'd gone for the size down?

More interesting is that nearly every product that he buys seems to be faulty in some way.
Is there some sort of industry conspiracy to send him all the Monday specials/warranty returns/seconds?

Hora (nice retort BTW) the bolts should be quite a tight fit in the holes in the frame. I think I had to gently tap mine in TBH.
And yes, in your hand, the frame is scarily light and flimsy (try pressing on the top of the top tube...) I soon got over that though. They are solid things to ride. 🙂

I think I had to gently tap mine in TBH.

Mine don't- I've had a bit of a play again and I'll give them a call. The tolerance may be fine.

A grudge ? Nah it was just that every post on car i read from you was about not believin the milage and it was probably a mini cab . I found it quite funny 🙂 trust me thats nothing . On another forum im windin a fella up about his engine being fake 🙂

My old style Heckler had bolt on drop outs, and that was hard as nails!!

My C 456 came with dropouts on, but no thread lock. I would check any bolts already on for it.

Yep threadlocked. Will give them a call. The last frame I had that was circa 3.3lb's was a Rocky Mountain Vertex but that was a work of art.

In a few weeks time, the On-One warranty guy will be off sick through work related stress...

😉

Rode mine for the first time last weekend. epic bike. you'll love it when built. certainly doesn't feel flimsy when built at all.

In a few weeks time, the On-One warranty guy will be off sick through work related stress...

for an easy life :d

howd you crack a summer season ? mines had a full on beating ... i cant believe you would be so unlucky to have every broken frame ever made from every manufacturer ....

I don't break frames- cracked the seat tube from my fat ass. NOT coreness. I only seem to be unlucky with forks tbh.

Alles Klar 8)

Oi! I've got first dibs on this frame in Hora's January Sale 😆

[quote=binners ]Oi! I've got first dibs on this frame in Hora's [s]January[/s]Boxing Day Sale FTFY

Oi! I've got first dibs on this frame in Hora's January Sale

Its abit overbuilt for your style of riding though Binners. You'd be better off getting the Whippet tbh.

Never have the words 'Binners' and 'Whippet' been used in the same sentence...

Overbuilt? Still 1500g though. Still very light.

Never have the words 'Binners' and 'Whippet' been used in the same sentence...

😆

You know the SC Chameleon had a bottle opener built in?

Theres the new On One Warrington Whippet with built in fag packet holder ready for binners..

Actually ... Fair point.. I think I best stick to steel. The trusty P7 does appear to have been built from girders! Just as well 😀

It's probably good design, using bolts in [s]torsion[/s] shear (brainfade) is not always a good idea, so its possible that its been designed to use the preload tension of the bolts to create a frictional grip (although I have not seen the design). But you could learn a lot by googling HSFG bolts - especially useful in high fatigue or stress applications.

Most modern steel railway bridges are held together this way.

Got mine rode it for a while with the standard dropouts, it was fine, changed to slot dropouts for SS, at the time I thought they looked a bit shonky too but 12months on still fine. Guess they must be ok after all.

druidh >> binners » Oi! I've got first dibs on this frame in Hora's [s]JanuaryBoxing[/s] xmas eve Sale

I built up a 20" for a friend in July where the hex bolts thread was poor/not full length resulting in the plates not being able to torque up.On-one were excellent and sent a replacement set with drop-outs next day(!) 😀

Have you tried a seatpost in yet? Sometimes that can be fun too. Once up and running though I think you'll find it a unique combination of abilities.

good point- I need a seat collar.

ah yes, carbon seatpost with this frame you'll need some grip paste 😕

Seatppst is 27.2 with a shim. An issue?

this one was slipping http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/SPMAXMALL/maxm_alloy_seat_post

alloy shim should be fine without overtightened clamp

Going to shim mine. Got a 27.2 dia carbon post thats currently in my steel 456. Used one of the USE thermoplastic shims in my roadbike to good effect. So will be using one of them in the C456.

Seatppst is 27.2 with a shim. An issue?

So long as the shim is at least 100mm long I won't complain.

Few are...

So long as the shim is at least 100mm long I won't complain.

Few are...

Badaboom

http://www.use1.com/product/000062/seat-post-shims/

100mm long 😉

I'll have to go and measure my shim!

I have a carbon eXotic seatpost, with no carbon paste.

Doesn't slip! Not done up overly tight also - just regular.

So stick a post in first see if it does slip, might be lucky.

tolerances vary .. 😉

I couldn't drop my post down all the way- had to file some material off the rivet which was poking too far into the seat-tube... just a heads-up if anyone cant drop their post fully!

I couldn't drop my post down all the way- had to file some material off the rivet which was poking too far into the seat-tube... just a heads-up if anyone cant drop their post fully!

Yes, this.

All built. Its a lovely finish. A nice bloke at On one confirmed that my drop out/clearance is a good finish etc. However I really really doubt it'll stay shiny for long! I'm sorting a proper seatpost too. Brant- thats one thing, you employ people who reply quickly and concisely to contact. I hope your treating them to a Christmas bonus.

Their Christmas bonus is the knowledge of your satisfaction. Who could want for more? 😀

Shims. Cane Creek make a nice alloy one that's 100mm. I don't trust shims in general but these seem good.

Hora - post a picture of finished article?
I'll add the yellow one I built up with a 44 ti fork later
brill frames imo 🙂

My drop outs have absolutely no play in them.

Hora - post a picture of finished article?

Its work in motion aesthetically. I didn't realise the rear mech outer is interrupted and I only ever run fully enclosed so its ziptied with innertube protection etc all the way along 🙄

Its work in motion aesthetically. I didn't realise the rear mech outer is interrupted and I only ever run fully enclosed so its ziptied with innertube protection etc all the way along

I drilled mine out .

I hope you're sticking with time honoured tradition and putting a set of hideously coloured mismatched forks on it?

the tube protection will be ok, is the frame black?

FYI I used a alu drink can and turned inside out, trimmed and clipped to around the inner chainstay to protect against chainsuck.Then integrated with a neoprene protector.. looks quite neat for £3.50.

also got some vinyl graphics,helicopter'ed over - headtube cable areas and downtube -makes it look less generic..

ah yes, carbon seatpost with this frame you'll need some grip paste

tolerances vary

I couldn't drop my post down all the way- had to file some material off the rivet which was poking too far into the seat-tube

flybywire I've just used the trusty ol' wrap of innertube

flybywire I've just used the trusty ol' wrap of innertube

ah yes, carbon seatpost with this frame you'll need some grip paste
ec70 in mine is ok, could be that
tolerances vary
but as I only own one so far I couldn't comment

It was possible that the carbon seatpost was too glazed finish. I used some 400grit which didn't make much difference as the post was twisting in the frame and dropped over bumps/drops. The paste had required re-applying according to the owner but appears ok now.

have you squeezed the top tube yet?

I done it for the first time last night. 😯

edit: that wasnt a sexual innuendo btw.

Im not sure why, but C456's seem to be prone to chainsuck. Mine has a few scratches in the carbon on the chainstay from this. I keep meaning to knock up a small Alu plate and epoxy it on to the danger zone, but I havent got round to it yet.

Im not sure why, but C456's seem to be prone to chainsuck

have you squeezed the top tube yet?

Mine doesn't flex at all- not one bit. Does this mean its going to be uber-rigid and beat me 😮

Just build up a c456 as my winter beater:

[IMG] [/IMG]

ok, there may have been a slight case of "spec creep" but most of it is constructed from hand me downs from my other bikes 😉

Went together fine, no issues at all really!

hora - Member
Mine doesn't flex at all- not one bit. Does this mean its going to be uber-rigid and beat me

it might beat you but that's got more to do with you not being strong enough to squeeze the top tube 😉

Coke can won't do much to protect against serious chainsuck.

RE: squeezing the TT, not so much vertically, but on the two sides of the trianglish shape that face the floor - you can squeeze these in ever so slightly.

its just beacuse its a long stretch of flat carbon on those sides, rather than rounded like on the DT

Maxtorque - nice! Fancydan XT 10 speed beater 🙂

Where's the pictures of Hora's bike??

No Pics yet- I'm getting my steerer cut down by an inch as I don't fancy running spacers under the bar or losing my sternum.

It looks quite good actually- Saint M810 cranks, Blackspire guide- all the text etc ins the same grey/black on all this with white forks and a brown spoon saddle.

maxtorque yours is a 20inch?

not a problem with man sized frames

I only ordered a M thinking it stood for 'manly'. Maybe it means medium after all... 🙁

Mine were a nice snug fit. Zero play

Yeah, mines a 20. Not ridden it enough yet, but i have an inkling an 18 might have been more fun (seems very "long", so will be good on the fast downhills, but the standover seems a little high)

the standover seems a little high

My old fashioned 20" steel one felt big at first. It was interesting going down steep stuff for the first time on it with the big seattube/toptube thing happening. I found myself having to lean back more than usual. You do get used to it (so stick with it for a bit Hora 😉 ). I think running shortish forks help, though not sure why.

6ft2 so should be ok on that with a 18"

Like it. Wish it was 0.5-1inch shorter but minor quibble. On the first part of Parkin Clough it caught me out reminding me that hardtails 'kick the saddle 😀

The rear has give/not rigid too!