[Closed] buying a second hand bike, what to check before handing over le cashish?

Check all bearings for lay and fork legs for wear and play

You need to throw it 10 foot in the air to flat hard landing. Listen for anything which may be loose.

Hidden stuff as well, like the length of steeerer and how much seatpost is in the frame. Theres lots of terrible home mechanics out there.

Check for play: fork bushings, suspension linkages, wheels, bottom bracket etc

Take the wheels off to check the bearings are smooth - even rough ones will spin well.

Is it his to sell.
Is it straight.
Reason for selling.
does it fit you.

Personally, I'd whip the shock out, wheels off and cycle the sus to feel if the bearings needed replacing. Take you 5 mins, worth it.

when this rain dies down a bit i'll go and dig through my car boot and check i've got some emergency allen keys for such inspections!

fantastic advice guys... thank you 😀

[b]DEADLY, JAMIE etc, if you're reading this please dont mention it on twitter as its hopefully a gift for someone who will definitely read my tweets![/b]

while you've got the wheels off you might as well have a look at the condition of the inner tubes.

lol i'm not going to check the inner tubes, not overly fussed about the condition of the tyres either as i can change them when i get the bike to a friends house this evening 🙂

*MUST NOT LET EXCITEMENT ABOUT SHINY THINGS CLOUD JUDGEMENT*

Kick each and every spoke HARD

Check inner tubes!?

Do make sure you rub your crotch up against the wheels though, it's the only way to properly check tyre wear.

Bloke I sold my trance to sat on it for 1 min, pedaled down the road and back. Asked why the brakes were "wrong" (I ride with them the euro way around) then paid for it in cash and drove it away. Was a bit of a surprise how fast it.

Do make sure you rub your crotch up against the wheels though, it's the only way to properly check tyre wear.

will make sure i get changed into my nevernudes before checking the tyre wear then.

the message i'm getting from this thread is as long as i look like i know what i'm talking about whilst rubbing myself on the tyres, i'll be fine yeah?

i will of course ask for a discount if i have to test ride it for more than a minute as at that point it's another ride older yes?

Lock the brakes and rock the bike back/forth. Shot bearings, bushings and linkages instantly show up.

Ride it - HARD - even if it's up and down the road. Slam on the anchors (do the brakes work?), crank hard on the pedals (any chain slip?), twist the bars vertically (any creaking from headset/stem area?

Any rounded bolts (might indicate problem area the seller tried to sort out - and failed). ?

Tyres - cracked side walls? How much tread?

Wheels - loose spokes? Do they ping nicely?

Changing gear - smooth or sticky?

Length of post? Is the post the right size, or does it use a shim (odd size... or wrong size post)?

Take off the stem top-cap - how much steerer can you see?

Any rust on the bolts/chain/nipples? Shows a good indication of how the bike's been looked after.

( The above is what I would check anyway....)

Turn up in full lycra with a full-face and body armour over the top, say you're new to the sport but saw the videos of the slopestyle in Whistler and you're going to join in this summer so need a bike capable of riding to the shops and the pub as well as handle 20 foot drops and be sure to ask if you can put road tyres on to join in with your mate who is in a local road club.

With any luck he'll be laughing so hard you can give him less money.

Lock the brakes and rock the bike back/forth. Shot bearings, bushings and linkages instantly show up.

Ride it - HARD - even if it's up and down the road. Slam on the anchors (do the brakes work?), crank hard on the pedals (any chain slip?), twist the bars vertically (any creaking from headset/stem area?

Any rounded bolts (might indicate problem area the seller tried to sort out - and failed). ?

Tyres - cracked side walls? How much tread?

Wheels - loose spokes? Do they ping nicely?

Changing gear - smooth or sticky?

Length of post? Is the post the right size, or does it use a shim (odd size... or wrong size post)?

Take off the stem top-cap - how much steerer can you see?

Any rust on the bolts/chain/nipples? Shows a good indication of how the bike's been looked after.

that's all excellent advice, although might it get in the way of being over-excited about shiny-ness?

*reschedules work diary so i can get home to dig out the body armour and fullface, i already carry lycra everywhere for those 'just in case' moments*

Wheels.....check it has wheels.

if it doesn't have wheels can i skip the kicking each spoke and frowning like somebody is pinching my love-handles and wont let go part of the checks? that sounds tyresome...

An excellent way to check wheel bearings is to lift the end of the bike you want to check, press your ear against the top tube and firmly spin the wheel. The sound should be high, smooth and constant; any clicks, cracks or grumbles indicate something is amiss. It also works for picking up stickiness in the headset. Check for play in wheel bearings by holding the top of the wheel/tyre and firmly rocking laterally.

on a serious note, thank you guys... lots of stuff i know how to check and know i should check, but would've very likely forgotten!

The more 'faults' you can find (not previously disclosed), the more you can bargain with them.

I always look to check the bearings etc, by grabbing the seatpost and pulling whilst pushing on the rear wheel back and forwards, is there any play?

Grabbing hold of front wheel and top tube and pulling and pushing wheel, again any play?

Stand over the bike and with the brakes on, try to rock the handlebars, any play in the forks and headset should be evident?

Hi Phil, if for whatever reason you don't have any luck with the bike later. I will be putting my large 2006 Heckler frame (orange) up for sale imminently. Ok, its not a full bike but included will be 2006 Fox vanilla 130 RLC's, recent RP23, Chris King headset, Thompsen post and XT front mech. Essentially every thing you need to upgrade if you have a bike with disk wheels and brakes already. Email in profile if you are interested. I would like to keep it local and can help with the build / changover if required.
It would be good to see you again also. 🙂

Hey Jef 🙂

the bikes not for me so a large frame wouldn't be needed.... however i do have a friend who rides large frames and is in need of a way of getting into the world of skills compensation with the rest of us lol so once you work out a price i can forward him the info if you want me to? he's based in crowthorne and is currently stuck on a carrera from halfords so there will be standard QR wheels and brakes available as it were

[b]philconsequence[/b]

So you don't forget something - open up Excel, and make checklist to tick off.

Look at my list above, and add some more to it - then you can methodically go through the bike not forgetting anything!

Check out the owner.

The sort of person he is and the state of his house will probably be reflected in the bike's condition.

I went to buy a Saab owned by a bloke who was an engineer and who's hobby was restoring vintage motorcycles. You could've eaten your dinner off his garage floor. The car was perfect.

I was mechanic-ing for a mate who was doing the Puffer 24hr solo. He turns up with a Merida FS which he's bought from a bloke called "Fat Malcolm". During the race I replaced the cranks, the front mech, the front brake caliper/lever and the LH shifter. After the race I replaced nearly everything else - pulleys, BB, pedals, drivetrain, headset, wheel bearings, grips, cables.....

Never EVER buy a bike from someone with a moniker such as fat, big, huge, lardy etc. They will have ground, stressed and worn out everything.

what about [b]Ph[/b]at instead of fat? outdated street slang goes a long way in gaining my respect ya get me?

To check the wheel bearings I would take them off the bike and "feel" them as the wheel spins in my hand.
Obviously check the wheels run true.
It may be worth taking the tyre off, to check the rim under the rim tape(next to valve) for cracks.
Hold on the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to check for play on the fork bushes - whilst doing this stick you finger on the lower bits of the headset , they shouldn't move.
Check all the gears shift easily and brakes work. check for play in the shock bearings - hold saddle with left hand and try to move wheel side to side with right hand.
oh and check for lateral play on the cassette - if there is any there could be a problem with the freehub body.

best of luck - hope you get a nice new bike.

Phil,

I reckon £350 the lot (ducks for cover).
The pivot bearings were renewed last year, RP23 is a 2010, forks were serviced by Mojo in 2010 also and the headset was new the same year.

If your mate is interested, get yourselves over to Alton for a cuppa and a look see soon.

It may be worth taking the tyre off...

no, you see, i was only joking 😆

you cant go and dismantle someones bike in front of them! if the general feel of it is ok then it should mostly be alright.

if the general feel of it is ok then it should mostly be alright.

Check for play in wheel bearings by holding the top of the wheel/tyre and firmly rocking laterally.

You mean like Status Quo?

down down deeper and down

Phil - not trying to piss on your chips with my text comments btw.

Just think that your starting point should be what is the intended purpose / riding for which the bike is wanted.

i know mr yeti 🙂 wasn't reading them thinking that, figured you woz looking out for me 'n shizzle. i'll ride it this evening and see how it feels, chances are i could keep it for myself and take up racing, by racing i mean making sure i'm the first up every hill in swinley to make jo feel bad.

Jef, i will email you!

Did no-one suggest checking for a serial number?