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I'm building a single speed mtb to use with my children on school runs and local woods with them, also gonna use it at center parcs and other places like that.
So I'm unsure what gearing to go for, I have 2 singlechainrings in the garage which are 32t and 40t
I don't have any for the rear though so what's the best size to choose, I'll be running them
On free hubs so I'll need spacers etc, until I buy a single speed wheel set.
Would I need a tensioner?
Frame is a dirty Jo semi creme
2:1 is the default for MTB S/S I believe, so go 32:16 and see how you get on...
Ah ok, thanks for the help
You might get lucky with chain length but you'll probably need a tensioner. Have a look somewhere like Charlie The Bikemongor, for a kit with everything you need. I'd get a cog with a wide base to protect the freehub body and a selection of narrower spacers so you can play about with chain line.
You will need a chain tensioner as there's no horizontal dropouts or eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain.
32:16 is a good mtb gear, if you plan to use the bike on slightly flatter terrain you might want to go 32:14T. It all depends on your fitness level and whether you prefer to stomp on the pedals or if you cycle with high cadence.
I'd suggest a decent half-link chain as it's easier to adjust the chain length. In the past I've managed to convert standard geared frame to SS with half-link chain(too much tension initially, after it wore out 'twas purrfect). HTH
I've just bought the Superstar widebase cog and spacer kit that comes with a lockring. Good price.
People talking ratios above don't mention wheel size - I'm not familiar with the frame you mention above. If it's 26" wheeled then the recommendations above stand - about 2:1. If it's a 29er then you need a shorter ratio - I'm runnning 34x18.
I'd definitely say you need a chain tensioner. I have sliding dropouts and need to tighten the chain up every few hundred miles of riding as it, the chainring and the sprocket wear.
True, I assumed 26".
Sorry yeah 26 in wheel
And don't feel you have to stick with 32:16. I ride SS in the Lakes, so gear it a bit easier (26" 32:18 & 29" 32:19).
Yeah I'll have a okay around and see what suits me best, gonna be slowish moving with my kids, I could swap out for smaller cogs for winter rides on the moors etc
I used to ride a single speed commuter hybrid and it was ace, I can't wait to get started on this build
Don't forget some single speed steel chainring bolts, the ones from a triple are no good..
Ah ok good thought, I'll get them ordered, thanks
i'd add that i use a regular 9 speed chain these days. half-links chains are 'ok' but don't tend to be great quality and are heavy.
go for a 'fixed' type of tensioner, not sprung, and push the chain up if you can. i copied a mate and used a chain guide on the front as a tensioner on a regular frame equipped with iscg mounts for a while, which worked fairly well.
I've got a 9 speed chain I could use and also have a chain guide so will give that a go.
Thanks
The good news is that changing the rear sporcket is pretty easy. I've got a 29er singlespeed and its 32:21. Far too spinny on the roads but I'm thankful on the hills around N. Wales. Plus I'm a big girl. I'm getting stronger from riding it though so will be getting a smaller sprocket soon
I've just fitted an oval 34 ring with a 14 cog and that works great on the Bad Boy around South Oxfordshire and climbs to the Ridgeway. Especially with a new red chain.
Update. Red chain does not stop you having a little vomit at the top of a long climb out of the saddle.
You don't need a singlespeed wheelset. I run standard Hope Evo hubs with 34x17 and 34x15. The two Surly cogs are on all the time and I change manually by moving the wheel forward/backward (17 for mtb, 15 for CX races). A tensioner would be even easier 😉 . Now a cable operated tensioner would mean no need to stop. Maybe someone could make one 😉 .
Seriously, it's a nice minimal set up and I like it very much. I'd commend it for two gears for school run then off road.
I appreciate they add adjustability, but there is no such thing as a "decent" half link chain 🙂 They weigh a ton, you can't use a joining link and every plate has a stress raiser bend in it - I've seen loads where links cracked. (and had individual half links in regular chains burst open).
We used to run Izumi track chains and spring link joins, but now just use regular 8 or 9 speed with a power link to join them.
Also a Lakes singlespeeder so 32:17 (26) or 32:19 (29) is good. Towing kid trailer was 32:20 (26). For road commute something around 70" is good (44:17 on 700C with fat slicks).