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Watched a you tube video and got drive side laced up, getting the spokes parallel on non drive at spoke and it just goes all wrong at that point.
What should I read or watch?
32 spoke Mavic 819, so I am also contending with mavic reverse screw nipple holders in the rim.
There seems to be a deft twist moment when one side is laced and the choosing the correct hole to start first inner spoke on non drive.
Thanks Wally.
Between Roger Musdon’s book and this video you can’t go wrong!
^^^ agree with Nixie. Really good book that talks you through the whole process.
And again the book is well worth it. But the video also looks pretty spot on.
Also take your time if it's your first few wheels - it's very easy to get in a muddle!
I found the online guide on thre Shledon Brown website was good for building wheels. Built up 3 pairs of mtb wheels using it and it seemed pretty foolproof on the lacing front.
I've just built my first pair of wheels, starting with the Roger Musson book, which is excellent, and after doubting myself came on here and posted a question. Ogden linked that video up there and I found it really useful. I didn't use the video for lacing the wheels, RM book is brilliant for that, but that video was really good for tensioning and truing.
As above, I have the book, but I refer to Sheldon Brown for lacing,
All done, survived first ride and thanks to all, Ogden especially. Video is now bookmarked.
Wally
All done, survived first ride...
Now check your spoke tensions again. Just in case... 🙂
Too late, but I use the Sheldon Brown guide.
Start at the spoke closest to the valve hole, then the next spoke is the next hole to the opposite side. Once those two are in you start with the 4th, 8th, 12th etc, then the 5th, 9th, 13th etc. Because you've got two in to start with the counting it much easier, and you can't do the inside spokes on the 2nd side after you've done the reverse spokes on the first side as you're threading into the crosses then. The exact sequence differs front to rear as I lace mine with:
Front: Braking spokes on the outside, so braking forces pull them away from the caliper (not often an issue these days but some caliper/hubs clashed).
Rear: Disk side as the front, drive side the pulling spokes are on the inside, so that when the chain derails it isn't pulled down a spoke and jams against the cassette, it should just catch on a spoke and rest there.