You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Frozen dropper
I set off recently intending to do a ride up to Rivington Hill and the dropper post broke on the way there.
It’s a Brand X Ascend 120mm cable operated & I believe it was cold weather related. The temperature was -1C (30F). When sat on the saddle it dropped by itself. The lever felt like there was excess slack. I abandoned the ride and returned home.
It was working okay the previous day @ higher temperatures.
Shortly after getting back home it started working okay again having achieved no repair work on it.
I’m driving over an hour to do a ride in the Peak District tomorrow and I’m dreading the thought of it happening there.
I think it's cold weather related just by the fact that it was working okay when it was warmer.
What could be the cause of this problem ?
Cable housing got water in and frozen.
As Jambo or water in the actuator if external is common
Cable housing got water in and frozen.
+1
I'm still the butt of jokes in my riding group as I steadfastly refused to believe it was the cable on mine a few years back. I even tried some strange combination of condom and copper grease to supposedly keep the lever lubricated...
Eventually I gave in, replaced the cable inner and outer and it worked fine in the cold afterwards.
Does this mean both the cable and housing need replacement ?
The actuator is external on these posts. It is located under the post itself.
I'd replace the inner and squirt gt5 in the outer and actuator
Thanks
As someone who isn't great with mechanics, how do you know when it is time to replace the outer ?
I can just about do it but don't want to do it when it's not neccessary
As someone who isn’t great with mechanics, how do you know when it is time to replace the outer ?
Probably when replacing the inner doesn't work any more - the little bits on the end are worth looking at too. If the hole is slightly too big water can get in.
The biggest win is finding a way to wash your bike that doesn't encourage water ingress. Refusing to wash it upside down is the biggie for me as the hole for the dropper cable in the seat tube is angled so water doesn't run in if the bike is the right way up.
As someone who isn’t great with mechanics, how do you know when it is time to replace the outer ?
I buy in 10m lengths ... the simple answer is it's hard to tell because under load reacts very differently to no load. (It can feel pretty OK just pulling through)
Short term it sounds like something froze overnight ... just stick some GT84 down (keeping well away from brakes) and whilst it's out stick some grease round the mechanism at the bottom, you might want to make sure its good and dry inside before adding new grease.
Longer term you can take it out altogether, clean out inside and add more grease.
The top just uncrews by hand.. the bottom has loctite but a wrench with an inner tube to protect the mechanism will work easily and 2x small allan grub screws (2mm?) release the actual mechanism then the activation rod will drop out. [don't lose grub screws !!!!]
[I use suspension grease inside and PM600 outside]
Does the brand x take air (under the saddle?) had similar issue with a dropper in low temps and the pressure was slightly too low to actuate
The biggest win is finding a way to wash your bike that doesn’t encourage water ingress. Refusing to wash it upside down is the biggie for me as the hole for the dropper cable in the seat tube is angled so water doesn’t run in if the bike is the right way up.</quote>
Yes, the bike was washed the previous day so water must have got in - It wouldn't have frozen overnight as its stored in a in-house garage - But it probably froze about 10 minutes into the ride as it was 30F!
Short term it sounds like something froze overnight … just stick some GT84 down (keeping well away from brakes) and whilst it’s out stick some grease round the mechanism at the bottom, you might want to make sure its good and dry inside before adding new grease.
Longer term you can take it out altogether, clean out inside and add more grease.
The top just uncrews by hand.. the bottom has loctite but a wrench with an inner tube to protect the mechanism will work easily and 2x small allan grub screws (2mm?) release the actual mechanism then the activation rod will drop out. [don’t lose grub screws !!!!] </quote>
Which grease to add round the mechanism at the bottom ? Would Parktool PPL-1 work ?
Currently planning to add GT85 and replace the inner cable before tomorrow
Around the bottom I use the thickest, most water repellent.
I basically only have 2 greases ... PM600 (thick and water repellent) and RSP slick both purchaded in largest sizes.
I use PM600 where friction is minor (most of a MTB) unless you're racing.
I'm sure PPL-1 will be fine...
Ppl is my go to
Look how spoilt and complacent mountain bikers have become, oh no I can't ride without a dropper. First World problems.🙂
Good quality slick inners and outers with decent alloy sealed ferrules. The cable that came with my brand x went straight in the bin.
I fill my outer with muc-off wet lube so the loop at the bottom of the downtube n seattube is always slick n well lubricated and as above keep and mechanism at the bottom well greased.
I don't wash my bikes. Never had a problem.
I straddle my legs either side of the post, letting the actuator nestle in me warm bits for about ten minutes before riding.
Works a treat, particularly naked.
I don’t wash my bikes. Never had a problem.
Not an option when based near the South Pennines/Peak District as most of the tracks have got mud.
Look how spoilt and complacent mountain bikers have become, oh no I can’t ride without a dropper. First World problems.
When a dropper starts playing up it's worse than riding with a rigid post, as it starts playing up all the time. Even if you just want to keep the seat up.
Good quality slick inners and outers with decent alloy sealed ferrules. The cable that came with my brand x went straight in the bin.
I usually order the LifeLife 2000mm cables. Are these not enough ? I could get the more expensive Shimano inner cables.
I fill my outer with muc-off wet lube so the loop at the bottom of the downtube n seattube is always slick n well lubricated and as above keep and mechanism at the bottom well greased.
I never knew this - I always thought it was GT85. I'd actually rather use Wet lube than a spray based lube as its easier to use.
Does the brand x take air (under the saddle?) had similar issue with a dropper in low temps and the pressure was slightly too low to actuate </quote>
The Brand X Ascend 120mm Post does not take air. The air is not adjustable. I do not know why.
I don’t wash my bikes. Never had a problem.
Not an option when based near the South Pennines/Peak District as most of the tracks have got mud.
The trails I ride have mud too. Let the mud dry and brush it off with a stiff brush. The problem with hosing down bikes is you end up blasting mud and grit into bearings and other places it shouldn't be.
I blast them with water
Cleaning solely with a brush is not convenient
Leaving them covered in mud would be a pain in so many ways
I blast them with water
Fine, just accept you're going to have a lot more problems than if you don't.
I'd get a lot more problems if I didn't
The mud has to go straight away, can't be bringing it into the garage etc. It gets everywhere. The bikes look shit.
The mud has got to go as soon as the ride ends. I can't live with mud everywhere.
I've blasted my bikes with water every time, except when I have ridden in Spain. Spain is great because there's no mud.
i have a trans-x post which is identical to the brand x. i use it all winter in very sub-zero temperatures. as mentioned above, it’s probably ice in the cable or actuator.
I’d get a lot
morefewer problems if I didn’t
FTFY. You'd have one extra problem of a muddy garage, which isn't really a problem because garages are intended for storing dirty, muddy things like cars. But, your bikes would be more reliable and you won't have to change the dropper cable after every ride in the winter.
I can recommend jagwire pro slick polished inners currently half price at Chainreaction £5.99, still double lifeline price, they might sell out quick now I've posted this though.
Don't think they were ever £12, despite it saying 50% off but they are bloody good cables though.
I can recommend jagwire pro slick polished inners currently half price at Chainreaction £5.99, still double lifeline price, they might sell out quick now I’ve posted this though.
I just buy 10m+ lengths, works out much cheaper as not only do you get it cheaper but you only cut off what you need.
The mud has to go straight away, can’t be bringing it into the garage etc. It gets everywhere. The bikes look shit.
As said ... I clean mine twice a year if they need cleaning or not.
Stevextc, you're confusing inners with outers.
Stevextc, you’re confusing inners with outers.
Oh oops.... I just buy cheap inners and change them often as I end up changing them anyway when swapping mechs etc. Last set of 20 were clarks .. worked fine but starting to get down to the last 4-5 now.