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After some help. My brakes have suffered with lack of power for a while. They barely slow me down and a simple test shows I couldn’t even skid in gravel!
I’ve serviced the calipers and replaced the pistons and seals. Barely any difference
I’ve cleaned and rubbed the rotors down. Barely any difference.
I’ve now replaced the levers and callipers and brand new pads as well.
Before I spend anymore money has anyone got any ideas. The rotor seems to be in good condition, it’s not been contaminated, it’s not worn and within thickness tolerance.
old system was Sram Guide RSC
new system Sram Code R.
thanks in advance
if you've changed everything other than the rotors, I'd change them next. Can you get them to skid using 2/3/4 fingers on the lever?
Seems odd - if you now have a full new set of Codes and the only thing original is the rotors then changing those would be the logical next step. Assuming you have well bled brakes with no sponginess in them.
Code R aren't great brakes from what I've heard. They're basically patterned to trade off the reputation of Code RSCs at a much lower price point, without the features that make Code RSCs good brakes.
OP, the one thing that you've not mentioned is bleeding the brakes?
Where are you OP ?
It sounds like contaminated pads to me. I would try cleaning the calipers with hot water and dish soap. Same with the rotors, then sand the rotors and clean them again. You should be able to wipe the rotors with a tissue and not see any residue. Then replace the pads and bed them in - find a big hill and apply the brakes hard for a few seconds, ease off for a few seconds, brake hard again, etc. You should feel the power improve as the pads bed in.
That's assuming that the levers aren't spongey and pulling back to the bars, in which case they need bleeding.
On the comment above about code R brakes not being very good that’s not the case. Whilst they’re not Code RSC good I’ve run them for a few years now on a couple of bikes and they’ve been decent. Had uplift days at BPW, Antur and Dyfi bike park with no fading or dramas. Standard sram sintered pads are the ones I’ve found are the best all rounder that cope with awful mud and slop. In the summer to save money the Uberbike Race Matrix is decent too.
As above, have you bled the system? Are the pistons moving to the rotor when you squeeze the levers, just not far enough?
Sounds like a bleed would be the first thing to try.
On the comment above about code R brakes not being very good that’s not the case. Whilst they’re not Code RSC good I’ve run them for a few years now on a couple of bikes and they’ve been decent. Had uplift days at BPW, Antur and Dyfi bike park with no fading or dramas. Standard sram sintered pads are the ones I’ve found are the best all rounder that cope with awful mud and slop. In the summer to save money the Uberbike Race Matrix is decent too
100% agree.. My lad raced them for 18 months in DH, I've raced them in Enduro, i've used them loads. They're my 'go-to' brakes... well, they were until i got RSC and they're now the go-to... but i've got 2 sets of spares which are both standard Codes and i'll happily fit them if and when needed.
If it was rubbish before and after you changed the levers / calipers that suggests a common issue.
Rotors - how could you tell they weren't contaminated? You need to give them a proper clean with brake cleaner (or similar). If they were contaminated the pads will likely be also now and will need replacing(or you will just go round in circles).
Alignment - are the rotors aligned within the calipers so they are not pushed to one side when applying pressure
Caliper Bolts - you have done them up, right?
Bleed - how is the lever feel? Spongey, firm...?
If the brake has a firm bite, and the rotor isn't bending unduly during braking, as others have said, It's likely that you've contaminated your new pads with your old rotors, or that the old rotors are somehow imbued with contaminant. I'd try baking them for 10 mins at 200-250 deg and then spraying them with cleaner and wiping them down once cooled.
Glazed?
I'd buy new rotors and pads, start with a known uncontaminated setup. You don't need to buy expensive rotors, even cheap ones off eBay or AliExpress can work well
I'd also suggest the brake mount may not be aligned properly, a couple of degrees out and the braking performance will suck
Thanks everyone for your pointers and words of advice. <br />Sorry I’ve not responded earlier, I’ve been stuck in work. <br />I have cleaned and sanded the rotors so am happy I’ve not contaminated the new pads. <br />The new brakes have been bled, no sponginess at all. <br />I agree that there is only one common factor. I will try a new rotor I was just reluctant to keep throwing more money away if people had other thoughts.
Just outside Bolton in the north west
I have cleaned and sanded the rotors so am happy I’ve not contaminated the new pads.
I'd still try new pads with the new rotors, just to be 100% sure. You can go back to the current pads once you've got the brakes working.
And I'd also work on one brake at a time to save money. Once you've got the front working you can repeat whatever you did to get the back working. So just buy one new rotor and set of pads for now. If that makes no difference on the front then no point repeating on the rear.
What rotor sizes are they? Do they need to be bigger for your build and riding? If you are running a 160/140 rotor sizes then going to 200/180 will help improve things.
How are you bedding the pads in? You are bedding them in, aren't you?