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4 pot TRP Slate Evo brakes for £89.99 a set at Merlin (rrp £245)
https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-slate-evo-front-and-rear-disc-brake-set-282217.html
They'll go nicely with the £170 Ragley frames and £180 RS Revelation forks 😁
Gone up a tenner .got mine for 79 less a fiver loyalty points
There was a previous psa
I've had 2 sets now both front hoses came in at 840mm not the shorter mentioned length
I absolutely love them
Got x2 trp 2.3mm rotors for a tenner each from merlin but there sold out at the minute
£60 for tektro 4-pots
https://www.merlincycles.com/tektro-gemini-hd-m535-front-rear-disc-brake-set-with-rotors-273968.html
Sram guide T brakes 4 piston brakes at £69.99 for a full bike worth seems an equally or better deal
Sram guide T brakes 4 piston brakes at £69.99 for a full bike worth seems an equally or better deal
that’s insanely good for a decent 4 pot set
I would take the TRPs over the Guides if you want a brake that just keeps on going (in good way)
Interesting mashr, why is that?
No axe to grind either way, been a shimano fan forever, have deores that have last 10 years with pad changes only, but also have sram brakes on bikes 4 and 6 years old also never bled and just work, from codes to basic level t
I've had Guide R for a few years, the lever piston swelling was a PITA but only cost £25 to fix (£6 in bits, £19 in needle nosed circlip pliers and a grinding disk to make them even more needle like). Good brakes but given a free choice I'd have got something else as they're not my first set to go that way.
Dunno why both SRAM and Shimano have gotten away with such rubbish reliability of their brakes, can you imagine if a motorbike or car had brake calipers that leaked, or master cylinders that would just fail and get stuck a couple of years from new?
why is that?
The Guides have dodgy master cylinders that seize. Though basic, the TRP would definitely be a better bet.
Fair, must just have got lucky
What they said, although don’t also forget that they love an occasional sticky piston too. I’ve always liked the feel of Sram brakes, so no bias here, but the TRPs I’ve had have been spot on and some of the easiest brakes I’ve bled
I went for the £70 Slate 4 (non EVO) F+R deal, mostly because they come bled continental and the exact hose length for my forthcoming Big AL (I think/hope).
https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-slate-t4-front-and-rear-disc-brake-set-300374.html
Just replaced a set of guide re's with the non evo trp's due to seized master cylinders. The trp's are really good, so much so that I've ordered another set of slate evos for the bigger bike.
Well I bought (and have now fitted) some 😎 ended up being £85 as I had a £5 loyalty discount.
They look nice, and were extremely easy to set up - they come with separate caliper/hose and levers, but it's as easy as unplugging each end sliding on the hose fittings and then tightening up.
Front hose was spot on length-wise, but I had to trim the rear a bit. There aren't any spare barbs included, but managed to reuse the old one. Was careful, so no bleeding needed 😁
Lever feel is nice and firm, maybe not quite as solid as Shimano, but I'm hoping you get a bit more modulation than Shimano too!
Ride around the block, and they feel good,but not bedded in yet. First proper ride on the weekend to bed in and see how they are.
Having done a bit if online research, TRP themselves say they're ok to run with 1.8mm discs, so I've left my Hope 200/180mm floating rotors on. A couple of lever squeezes and the pistons reset themselves fine - however, I might try 2.3mm discs if I spot a bargain at some point.
How do these size up for kids? Eldest has Clarks on her cub-scout and I was considering a set of deore m6100 for her as the Clark's are pretty mushy with a big (kids 3 finger) lever.
Could try bleeding the Clarks I suppose.
I received this today. What do I do now? Apparently they are bled and just need connecting but I have never done that, I was expecting a total fit and forget solution as the description said Right Hand Rear brake. Is it easy? I am quite happy putting together the rest of the bikes but I normally don't venture into this for my own safety lol.
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@nickfrog - Is the rear a right hand lever? I was thinking of getting some of the non evo ones, and swapping the levers over. I did see the same description on a rear only single brake though so wondered if it was a cut and paste error?
If you need to swap them over just undo the hose bolt and screw it into the opposite lever, you might lose a little bit of fluid but if you;re creful it should be fine.
Cheers but to me the description is wrong as I can now just choose which lever goes with which hose (unless I missed something). I was hoping the description meant it was ready to fit to the bike, particularly as I was after continental.
I don't need to swap as there is nothing to swap yet lol, hence my question, what to I do now to "simply connect"? (I have never done this).
Also, can anyone see the pic of the brakes I just posted? It seems it appears when I originally post and then is disappears, weird but not the first time on STW.
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@nickfrog yeh, can see a pic of the hose end, with a baggy of lever bits
I imagine the description could be argued to be "right hand lever" "rear hose length"- honestly it should be a doddle to connect (tho' I've never had TRP) and I suppose internal routing and/or trimming to length are easier this way
@nickfrog - very easy!
There is a video from TRP on YouTube, but I was fine without.
Check hose length, if needed cut to correct length with cable cutters, remove barb and refit (I held the hose in blocks in a vice and tapped it in gently).
Fit lever and make sure it's flat.
Remove plug from lever and hose.
Slip on the hose cover, hose nut and olive (olive isn't directional)
Insert into lever, hand tighten a bit while pushing the hose in. Finish with an 8mm spanner. Get it decently tight, but don't overtighten.
Literally took 10 minutes to fit both, including trimming the rear hose, etc.
Oh thats all good to know, might have to get some ordered then. Might be a bit overkill for my Cascade, but I'm heavy and these are cheap!
I got some of those Evos last month. Now waiting for my LBS to get me some 2.3mm discs as nowhere has them in stock. They are going to be around £45-50 each for centrelock versions in 180 and 203 diameters. Same price as online but my local shop will knock a bit off that.
Thought I might as well go and set it up as recommended from the beginning. Discs are more than the rest of the brakes!
@lister
merlin have the 203 centre locks for £15
https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-r1c-centre-lock-rotor-282010.html
@ajantom thank you so much. Really useful. A bit daunting even though I don't actually have to shorten the hoses as they are perfect length. Will ponder and give it a go as the last job on the bike.
How do I remove the plug from the hose? Also the guy in the vid fits the hose with the lever off the bars, not sure if crucial.
they are supposed to be I-Spec II compatible, but I can't get my shifter to fit.
Anyone else got this to successfully work?
Found some 6 bolt 180 and 203 mm rotors from sprocket cycles if anyone is still searching for those …… on sale at the min too 😊
Afternoon, what’s the difference between the T4 and the Evo with those slate brakes? Thanks
Afternoon, what’s the difference between the T4 and the Evo with those slate brakes? Thanks
This review discussed the differences...
https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-gear/trp-slate-evo-4-piston-brake-review-an-affordable-powerful-trail-bike-brake/
@nickfrog - sorry only just saw your post.
Hose plug cones out with a 2mm (I think) Allen key.
With the lever, just keep it horizontal or facing up slightly so less likely to drip/lose oil. It's easier to have it on the bars IMHO as it's easier to attach and tighten the hose with it on the bars.
Short review:
Nice 👍
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Longer review:
Very good brakes 😎
Modulation is ok, not as on/off as Shimano, but not as much as, say, Hopes.
Not much lever throw, so you can run them close to the bars if you have smaller hands. I prefer levers quite far out, so personally the throw is a bit short for me, but a bit of fiddling with lever adjustment and I've found the sweet spot for me.
Lots of power - coming from single piston Hope Tech 3 X2s (they've gone on the singlespeed) there's defo a step up in power. Couple of downhills I might have had to really squeeze on the Hopes, with these it felt much more controlled.
"if needed cut to correct length with cable cutters, remove barb"
Thanks a lot once again. I was brave and I connected the front one and it works for now lol.
I now know I need to cut the rear one a bit, just 10cm.
How do I remove the barb from the bit I cut?
I have a bike cable cutter but doesn't that squash the hose a bit? And doesn't that mean some fluid going everywhere?
Not sure what a block is nor have I a vice. Should I still try or pay the shop £30 for a 2mn job?
It will squash the hose a little, but if you're careful fluid loss should be minimal. Keep it upright and don't let the hose whip around.
I have some yellow plastic hose blocks that came with some Shimano brakes years ago. You could carefully hold it in some pliers I guess?
Remove the barb with a Stanley knife and a bit of finesse 😁
Remove the barb with a Stanley knife and a bit of finesse 😁
don't go at it with a set of knipex snips , it won't end well
Cheers guys. Doesn't sound like a job that I can tackle tbh, I know my limits and they are low.
I can't even find anyone who sells the insert with the 2mm cap on it. I guess it's the only downside with TRP, availability of spares.
TRP = Tektro, so these should fit...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115901279676?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FfrQ3aCETY-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=KHvd_PGgSqe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Where are you Nick?
If you're anywhere near Exeter I'd happily sirt it for you.
i bought these
https://www.thebikefactory.co.uk/shop/components/sub/brakes/trp-trp-tektro-and-trp-olives-and-hose-pins-4733224/option/
these ae the 5mm option that is needed for the slate
i know that from this
https://trpcycling.com/product/olive-and-barb-10-pack/
I think the ones ajantom posted are the 5.5mm ones for tekro and older trp's
Good point, I forgot they'd gone from 5.5 to 5mm 👍
i bought these> https://www.thebikefactory.co.uk/shop/components/sub/brakes/trp-trp-tektro-and-trp-olives-and-hose-pins-4733224/option/
https://trpcycling.com/product/olive-and-barb-10-pack/ <
Thank you Stevie. The ones on the TRP site are indeed the same ones as mine with the red seal. Is that also what you received from The Bike Factory where you can block it with the 2mm allen insert?
I haven't got them yet
I only killed the original barb last night
where you can block it with the 2mm allen insert?
You won't need to block the new barb, I suspect the TRP ones are threaded, but other versions won't be.
You won’t need to block the new barb, I suspect the TRP ones are threaded, but other versions won’t be.
That was my thinking as well, as long as it is 5mm it will be ok
Yes ajantom, I suspect I could go straight from fitting the new barb to connection to the lever, however I also suspect you don't realise how cack-handed I am and I would have liked the luxury of fitting a blocked barb so that I can have a rest in between steps lol.
I would have liked the luxury of fitting a blocked barb so that I can have a rest in between steps lol
😆
Though honestly you would be fine. The caliper end of the hose is sealed, so no fluid will leak out unless you were to press the pads/pistons in.
Looks like a useful tool, I might buy myself one for future brake installations.
I know people will laugh at me but I finally found the courage to shorten the rear hose. It's something I always avoided.
It was piss easy with the £10 ebay tool I linked which does both cut and barb insertion. The cut was perfectly flat and went through like a knife through butter with no flattening. I was happy to be able to block the barb with the 2mm plug I recycled from the front though as the tool actually allowed me to push the barb in with the plug in situ too, minimising the risk of fluid loss to pretty much zero. The only challenge is to comply with the torque setting as my torque wrench is only allen or torx. A big thank you, to @ajantom in particular.
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So if these are on the singleybob Tom what are you doing with the clampers?
Come again?
they are supposed to be I-Spec II compatible, but I can’t get my shifter to fit.
I treat they are i-spec b
Mine arrived today - they look quality
So if these are on the singleybob Tom what are you doing with the clampers?
@del
TRPs on the Ragley Bluepig
Hopes (that were on the BP) on the SS Krampus
Stooge still has the Klampers 😁
My Rune took a recent trip to the LBS for fresh fluid in Hope Tech 3 E4'S. Both Shimano RT-76 rotors warped.
So this thread inspired me to buy some TRP 2.3mm rotors.
Now fitted, with Hope brake adaptors and pistons lubed.
Bought some of those Birzman brake alignment clams.
Learnt the dark arts of adjusting the pistons to compensate for one side pushing out more than the other.
In retrospect I think part of my issue with the front E4 was using the Shimano adaptor from the Zee's I had previously complete with conical washer.
I now wonder if the RT-76's were warped at all?
I'll try them on a different bike and if all good they may go to a friend who has a new Polygon. That bike has a great spec for the money (current bike prices notwithstanding) albeit with cheap rotors that only work with resin pads.
Did anyone get the lever bleed pipe, shown in that vid, with their brakes? I didn't
I didn't but then again they didn't need bleeding despite having to cut down the rear hose.
How is everyone getting on with these brakes?
These rotors are a bit sexy
TRP 180mm 6 bolt 2.3 discs are back in stock at merlin, £12.95
Cheers for that. I only have the non EVO brakes, so are those compatible?
What's the benefit? Less dead lever travel?
Aren't they harder to centre though as I assume there is less margin?
Clueless of Sussex
Aren’t they harder to centre though as I assume there is less margin?
The ones I've pictured above are 2.3mm (but not cheap). Haven't noticed any difference setting them up. Your levers/calipers sort themselves out when your first compress them.
If you've been running thinner rotors, you'll probably want to reset your pistons.
Benefits - heat management I think