Brake problem...adv...
 

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[Closed] Brake problem...advice please!

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Hey guys, so i've got a bit of a problem...hoping someone can help me out:

Yesterday i decided to go all out and do a proper job cleaning my bike...i was basically done and just putting the wheels back one when i discovered the rear wheel wouldn't locate because the brake pads were too close together for the disc to fit (i guess the rear brake lever must have got pushed at some point) so like Avid suggests (i've got Juicy 3's) i used a screwdriver to try and push the calipers back to give a big enough gap...but they wouldn't budge, i tried giving it some more pressure and managed to get them to move a bit, but then discovered quite a bit of brake fluid was leaking out of the seal of the main body (at the brake lever end)...so i'm not sure whether to keep going (forcing more fluid out) or whether i'm doing damage by doing so...has anyone had this happen to them? and if so what was the problem and how did u fix it?!

Thanks for ur help in advance 🙂

Happy trails!

Shakey


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 12:33 pm
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I don't know these particular brakes but I would have thought the pads should push back with no fluid leaking. Where is the fliud actually leacking from? around the master cylinder ( where the lever goes into the body) or around the filler cap?.

Have you done anything else with teh brakes - topped up fluid ?

Opening the bleed screw while you push the pads back allows any excess fluid to escape but there should not be excess fluid unless you topped it up

Have you got the pads far enough apart now to put the wheel in?

Maybe LBS time


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 12:44 pm
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cheers for ya response 🙂

Well it was leaking from what i beleive is the filler cap; the only thing screwed onto the main body of the brake at the lever end)...i've never topped up the fluid...there pretty new (just coming up to a year old).

I've managed to get the wheel in, but the pads now rub quite a bit more than normal when i turn the wheel...i could prize the pads open further but more fluid would leak out...and i'm not sure whether that means air will leak in...

LBS? something something service?

Cheers,

Shakey


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 1:20 pm
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Local Bike Shop.

There should be no fluid come out. I don't know these brakes so cannot diagnose further.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 1:22 pm
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Gotcha...ok thanks for your help TandemJeremy

Happy trails 🙂


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 1:34 pm
 RegP
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Seals are gone


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 1:42 pm
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RegP...that makes sense...but why would it be so hard to push the calipers back...surely if the seals were blown it should be even easier than usual. If the seals do need replacing is it something you can do urself?


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 1:53 pm
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There is a very small hole on the lever which should let fluid out before it is forced out through the filler cap, which should not leak at all.
Operate the lever with something between the pads to stop them moving together and see if any fluid comes out of the lever, and where.

You could try loosening the filler cap and then pushing the pads back in to see if that helps, as any excess fluid would bleed out with the filler undone.

Whenever my Juicy 3s have been stiff it has been sticking pistons, and you really need the bleed kit before you attempt to fix that.

Whatever you do, protect your frame; brake fluid strips paint really well.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:08 pm
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If you find out from your LBS let me know I'd be interested. I have the same issue with some Juicy 5's.

I think the rear callipers ceasing is a common problem. So it may be this. As for the leaking not sure if this is a result of calipers leaking?

As I said mine do exactly the same. Ceased at one end leaking around the filler cap at the other.

Not really any help, just to let you know I think this can happen to Juicy's what a bike shop would do I don't know. Mine gave mine back to me saying they worked. Which they clearly didn't. But didn't bother to argue as I thought it was a waste of time with people unwilling to investigate. Am now gonna buy a new caliper and see if that works and do it myself.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:09 pm
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Dogmatix, how much is a new caliper ? If you get a bleed kit you could pop the pistons out of your current caliper and clean them up so they don't stick.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:12 pm
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Well, someone is selling a whole front brake for £22, mine is a rear so was just going to swap the cables. The top of the pistons on my rear are a little rough (my fault) so I would probably need to buy new ones for £10 with this and hassle it looks to replace them (read you need to blow air through and all sorts) I thought £12 extra and swaping a cable would be easier. Plus I get a spare to boot, that I could fix later? sort of made sense to me at the time.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:18 pm
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br1zz thanks for that, i'll have a look, it was definatly leaking out from around the filler cap but fortunatly i mopped it up pretty quick so i don't think any got near my frame...i'll be sure to make sure it doesn't in future though!

dogmatix, thanks, i'll be sure to let you know if i get a result...

I think sticky calipers is a likely diagnosis..but why it would force fluid out of the filler cap i don't know, it seems to me that i can't be putting more pressure through the system than its used to just by pushing them back into place...

what a bummer, a problem just in time to stop my weekend ride 🙄


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:24 pm
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Shakey,
The filler has an 'o' ring so it should not vent fluid at all. If you've had reason to remove the screw (or anyone has for you), have a look to see if the 'o' ring is in place and undamaged, it should definitely not leak.

It should be possible to push a siezed piston back in. Take the pads out first so that you dont damage them, and use a ring spanner on the end of the piston so as not to damage the stud that sticks out of the centre.
If it really won't budge check that you have not pushed it in at a slight angle, maybe even use the lever and push them back out a tiny bit first ?

It would be normal for one piston to move with the lever while the other does not if one has siezed. They usually sieze through getting wet/dirty and then not being moved (like when you wash your bike and then put it away for a week), but they don't usually get too stuck if this is the case, they just need a little help to get going again.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 2:48 pm
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Assuming you had your bike upside down, turn it over and leave it for a while so the brake fluid drains away from the seal on the lever. Then try pushing the pistons back. If anything leaks, it should just be air.


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 3:00 pm
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hey guys, just got home and had a tinker with the bike...i managed to get the wheel turning freely and the brake seems to work fine without any fluid queezing out...so i think i may have got away with it 🙂 the only question now i guess is do i need to top up the fluid to replace what i lost or can i leave it...if it needs toppin up, do i need a bleed kit to open up the filler cap or can i just open it up?


 
Posted : 22/01/2010 6:12 pm
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You can add fluid but without a bleed kit to push it through the system you will be reduced to adding a few drops at a time, closing the caliper back up, operating brakes and then repeating.

If they work and the lever feels OK, leave em !

Looks like your weekend ride is back on...


 
Posted : 23/01/2010 12:13 am
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Exact same thing happened to me.
I lost quite a bit in the cellar floor. But...

I left it over night and it seems fine now with the back wheel locking insantly when i want it to.

My advise would be to leave it, and if it does pop or leek more to the point of not working then get it re-bled.


 
Posted : 23/01/2010 10:48 am
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thanks guys, left it alone like you said and it worked fine yesterday when i was out riding so problem solved! 😀 cheers for the advice, hope ya got out urselves over the weekend for some biking...Happy trails 😉

Shakey


 
Posted : 24/01/2010 1:50 pm

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