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Hi all,
Today I replaced the disc and pads on my front-end SRAM Level T brake. It was difficult to get the disc between the pads, so I removed the new pads once again and then used a 'plug' to force the pistons in. This worked, but now the brake has hardly any freeplay between its resting position and the 'bite'. It feels spongey and weird. That said, it still works, the wheel revolves freely with only a slight 'whiiirrr' from the pads.
I'm going on a week-long bikepacking trip tomorrow. Maybe it needs bleeding or maybe it's the fact there is barely any space between the pads and the disc - in any case, do you think it will be okay? I don't really have time to do much else as I don't have any oil (I could replace the old pads I suppose and I will take them with me just in case).
Thanks!
Overfilled. If yo bleed with part worn pads this can happen. I don't know the bleeding procedure for these breaks but you need to let a little fluid out
Have you gone for a bedding-in ride? First thing I'd do if swapping pads & discs...few descents to get up some speed and then bring to almost stop. See how they are after that.
:Edit: as tj says, could be too much fluid...sram are dot fluid so hydroscopic and absorb water. Ive always had sram brakes and, if i couldn't get the pistons right back, have released fluid
tj, thanks mate.
Can this be done without any oil? Don't want to make a mess - train is booked for tomorrow.
I'll take it for a spin later see how it responds.
hi nuke, good call. Will try this soon.
I'll be quite remote so want to avoid any show stoppers.
I don't know these specific brakes so cannot say how to remove the over filling - sorry
When you pushed the pistons back, did you manage to get them right back? Id only release excess fluid if i couldn't retract pistons fully to then get new pads in and with enough room to fit rotor. If you've managed to get the new pads and rotor all back together then i stand by going for ride to let everything realign and bed in pads
There should be a bleed port on the lever. Position the lever so the bleed port is at the highest point and open it. Gently lever the pads apart with a clean flat bladed screwdriver. Excess fluid will be forced out the bleed port. Close the bleed port and wash off any spilt fluid with hot water.
When you replace the wheel, recenter the caliper. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts, fit the wheel and apply the brakes, then retighten the mounting bolts. This should center the caliper over the disk.
nuke, I'd say there was 1-2mm difference to not being completely flush with the caliper.