[Closed] Boost kit or rehub

Halo vapour 35 650b rims and sapim spokes if it makes any difference.

Rehub, or hunt secondhand wheel cheaply and sell on, honestly redishing isn't a good thing, you'll just end up having a bodge job wheel with one side of spokes susceptible to stress failures.

Good point, the redish on my 240 was a mess. Had to slacken off and retension in the end. No suitable wheels on the market at present to use a hub from (the orange makes it more difficult to find). Long term I'd probably keep the hub if I changed wheel a size anyway so that also plays into a rehub.

Yeah, not a huge fan or redishing this much, as it's 3mm rear and spokes will rarely have that much tolerance, last time i did this i ended up getting the side where i'd wound off 3mm of spoke having spokes pinging after a few months, which just adds cost and effort, especially with tubeless mess abouts these days.

Re-dished all my hopes, using Wolftooth kit. It means the wheel has better triangulation on the spokes, so providing you’re ok with tweaking a wheel, there’s no reason to worry about this.

Any perception of strength loss from not running slightly wider flange spacing is just nonsense and drinking the cool-aid hype spouted by marketeers.

If the wheel is evenly tensioned, there’s nowt to worry over.

So brand new hub with old spokes and rim, yay or nay

if you’re reusing the spokes from the current wheel it’s likely that they won’t be the right length as the flange spacing will be wider on the new hub.

They are the right lengths fortunately. It's a hope to hope swap so only dimensional change is the flanges moving 2mm. Makes less than 0.5mm difference to length.

I don't believe the marketing cool aid, more about what's the better component to have longer term. Given the minimal cost difference I think I'm going to rehub as any future frames will be boost. I like building wheels so that's not a drag.

I guess if the only boost kit you’ll consider is £44 that does make a new hub seem like a similar cost after selling the old one.
The velosolo kit is £19 though so I’d be getting that. Comes in orange too. Redish is not an issue.

Agreed £44 is excessive for an end cap (though inline with what DT charge for their adapters). THe velosolo kit is of the bodge variety though. I've used one like it in the past and the unattached spacers are a pain, even when taped. There is one other end cap kit that I'd consider made by Fun Works. It's a more reasonable price but sadly the brexit car crash means they are not shipping to the UK currently.

I've been considering having to do this at some point for the front wheel (going non-boost to boost forks).
I'm just going to add a spacer to the non-disc side and re-dish. Reckon it'll give me a stronger wheel than I have now owing to improved disc-side spoke angles.

My other bike is running boost kits on both wheels (DTSwiss hubs, MRP kit on front, Wolftooth on rear). The hub to adapter price ratio is 'slightly' different for 240 hubs though! As above though the rear was a pain to redish and ultimately need a complete untension and tension for some reason.

I've got cheapo 3mm spacers on each side of my rear hub that I will lose at some point.
240 hubs and my intention is to get a proper single sided spacer and a dish.
Never heard anyone criticise a dish before, is it a physical problem or bad workmanship?

I'd get a boost hub rather than give wolftooth £44 just on principle, their prices are unjustified across the board imo, I've done the hope conversion kit but ended up buying a boost hub cos I went microspline, you're right about the spokes, hardly any difference but use new nips.

and I want the cassette in the correct place (which counts out the official hope kit).

Are you sure?  What chainline/crankset are you planning on using?

Yes. Raceface turbine with one up switch rings. Currently fitted with non boost switch carrier but I have a boost switch carrier to fit.

their prices are unjustified across the board imo

I agree, crazy cost at RRP. I have their dropper remote which is nice but very glad I got a deal on it.

boost hub cos I went microspline

Also a consideration.

I've order a hub now so decision made.

Never heard anyone criticise a dish before, is it a physical problem or bad workmanship

In the case of my rear it was almost certainly my fault 🙄. The front I redished has been fine.

I may be interested in the Hope non boost hub if you are selling, if its black

cheers

eastham8 at aol dot com

lardman
Free Member
Re-dished all my hopes, using Wolftooth kit. It means the wheel has better triangulation on the spokes, so providing you’re ok with tweaking a wheel, there’s no reason to worry about this.

Any perception of strength loss from not running slightly wider flange spacing is just nonsense and drinking the cool-aid hype spouted by marketeers.

If the wheel is evenly tensioned, there’s nowt to worry over.

Triangulation isn't the issue, it's the spoke lengths that are going to have to be manipulated by 3mm either side, you will have less spoke in the nipple on one side, if those spokes are pretty much on the line for the threads being in the nipple then you're going to weaken the nipple performance, just depends on how much play you have, as 3mm movement is a few turns of the spoke.

@Vortexracing it's orange I'm afraid (spot the colour tart).

Are you sure? The flange spacing is 3mm either side, but the spoke length will be way less. Shirley?

Using the wheelpro calculator gives the difference. Adding a rear offset of 3mm gives the spoke length difference. It's around half a mm.

Yeah, reading back is confusing, i mean to move the rim 3mm will be a few turns of the spoke, i'm not a huge fan of turning non-boost into boost, just too much faffing for something that's not really worthwhile in the end.

The amount of spoke difference really isn't anything to worry about, unless by some freak one side of your wheels is already out of spec. Most spokes are sold in 2mm graduations so .5mm is way way within the margins for error that we build wheels with. (if you're worried about a spoke length imbalance of that size, you should probably worry about every wheel you own)

The only practical reason to be wary of dishing is if you think the nipples are likely to be seized, especially if they're <spit> aluminium. I literally cracked a nipple on a brand new factory-built wheel doing it, highly annoying.

Literally just bought another wolftooth kit for DT240, £44 is a bit of a pisstake for what it is but equally, they can only charge it because nobody else is doing it. And it's still offset against the cost of a good hub- for DT it's a no brainer for me.

(oh yeah, and brexit- neither of the two cheapest sellers I found will ship to the uk any more so that's added about a fiver)

Yeah, to be honest it's not a huge amount, but i just don't like the faff of redishing for boost spacing, did it once, paid for the boostinator, redished, was just a fudge, as above, not a fan of having to tighten/loosen every nipple, funnily enough this afternoons job is replacing a couple of nipples due to seizing, and the thought of removing tyre, cleaning rim, removing tubeless tape, etc is not making me rush to do it!

it’s orange

never mind, it was worth a punt

Yeah for the cost of a 240 it's a no brainer. Fun works also do a cheap 240 one but for the shipping issue.

nixie
Full Member
Yeah for the cost of a 240 it’s a no brainer. Fun works also do a cheap 240 one but for the shipping issue.

I've picked up a couple of the Roval Control SLs in the last year that are 240 internals and i believe lighter external, come with the 54t as well, always worth keeping an eye out for them, funnily enough it's the one i used to boost the last non-boost wheel i picked up cheap!

Nice tip. Coming with the 54t is a huge bonus.

Cheaper still buy just the boost components required to change the hub you’ve got.

i changed a trashed boost pro 4 to a fatsno by just identifying what would change over and what wouldn’t. Bought the bits from places like sjs

There’s a hope Pro4 boost 148mm conversion kit which is half the price of the wolf one.

i used it on Pro4 (which was set up 142mm on a Stanton).

it didn’t take much to re-centre (less than a full turn iirc).

The bigger problem is that it’s completely different spacings for cassette/rear mech and brake calliper. I had to shim/washer out the calliper for it to work and fiddle with limit screws and cable). Changing wheels is therefore a pain so that particular one doesn’t get used (it’s my chunky minion 2.8 winter tyred one...).

if it’s your only wheel, don’t see much of a problem. If it’s one of several I’d re-hub personally.

I'd just use a boost kit. Assuming yours is currently 142, a boost kit to make it 148 will mean the cassette is only 3mm further inboard. That's less then the space between each sprocket.

interesting forum - i am about to switch components from a non boost frame to a boost and hadn't even considered re-dishing, is it necessary?

I think this will be a pretty short term fix until I find some 27.5 boost forks and a good wheelset at a keen price - anyone had experience of the Hunt Trail wide?

This thread came up at the right time for me. Currently having the same thoughts as have a pair of lightly used hope pro 4 hubs and new crest rims but thinking about selling them and just going for a set of boost wheels to save any hassle.

It's only necessary if you're boosting the hub through the longer non drive side end cap, you'll need the spacer to move the rotor 3mm as well to keep it in line, it's not a huge job to do, just tighten one side of spokes and loosen the other the same amount until it's correct, then final true.

I just had a pain with a couple of nipples going soon after on the last one i did, then again i've had a couple of spokes go on my current wheel, so maybe it's me!

Cheaper still buy just the boost components required to change the hub you’ve got.

You can't. The hub shell is the different part.

I would always re-hub, because the kits look like a bodge. But I can do that myself. Appreciate others might not be able to.