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I have just bought new rims and was going to build them to fit my current bike (142/100mm) hubs. Although i plan on getting the new Tallboy ltc when its released next year do you think i'll need to buy new hubs and re-build the wheel? or does anyone offer an adapter? or is there a possibility they may stay the same size?
It's possible there will be some sort of adapter, though it would likely involve moving tge disk rotor across too.
Have SC suggested they'll be going Boost with the new frame?
i've not heard or seen anything about the new tallboy although it seems to be the way most new bikes are heading.
The thing with Boost is that it moves the chainline. Adaptors won't really work.
I was thinking that, i suppose my 12 month old bike will be classed as retro then.
Only if you use Boost cranks. A 3mm spacer each side of the hub, plus a 3mm spacer behind the rotor [i]should [/i]leave everything in the right place 🙂PeterPoddy - Member
The thing with Boost is that it moves the chainline
scotroutes - Member
PeterPoddy - Member
The thing with Boost is that it moves the chainline
Only if you use Boost cranks. A 3mm spacer each side of the hub, plus a 3mm spacer behind the rotor should leave everything in the right place
scotroutes,
I don't think it is quite that simple
My understanding is that Boost 12*148 is similar to 12×142 in that it’s using the same measurements from cassette to dropout and rotor to dropout, as well as the same 3.5mm hub catches in the frame. Where it becomes an entirely new hub is that extra 6mm in the center of the hub shell, widening the entire system.
Therefore you would need to leave the drive side alone and space the disk side by 6mm.
[quote=Rusty Mac ]
Therefore you would need to leave the drive side alone and space the disk side by 6mm.If you did that, you'd have to offset the rim too.
As I see it, adding 6mm in the middle of the hub moves the chainline out 3mm. - hence the Boost cranks.
Adding a 3mm spacer between cassette and frame would leave the chainline where it used to be.
Adding a 3mm spacer between the brake side of the hub and the frame will leave the rotor 3mm too far towards the centre of the hub, necessitating the 3mm spacer behind the rotor (or shifting the caliper across somehow)
As I see it, adding 6mm in the middle of the hub moves the chainline out 3mm. - hence the Boost cranks.Adding a 3mm spacer between cassette and frame would leave the chainline where it used to be.
Adding a 3mm spacer between the brake side of the hub and the frame will leave the rotor 3mm too far towards the centre of the hub, necessitating the 3mm spacer behind the rotor (or shifting the caliper across somehow)
All very valid, right upto the point you relise you need a boost crank as your chainring hits the chainstays ;0)
[quote=STATO ]
As I see it, adding 6mm in the middle of the hub moves the chainline out 3mm. - hence the Boost cranks.
Adding a 3mm spacer between cassette and frame would leave the chainline where it used to be.
Adding a 3mm spacer between the brake side of the hub and the frame will leave the rotor 3mm too far towards the centre of the hub, necessitating the 3mm spacer behind the rotor (or shifting the caliper across somehow)
All very valid, right upto the point you relised you need a boost crank as your chainring or crankarms hit the chainstays ;0)
Maybe.
or your chain rubs against your plus-sized tyre 🙂
Aye you'd have to offset you rim but you don't mess with the cassette to mech measurement.
With your 3mm 3mm theory you would have to space the rear mech inboard 3mm too.
I’m currently building a 2016 Bronson & spoke to a mechanic at SIFF & a very helpful lad, I asked about using my current XX1 set up & he told me they have experimented with several builds & recommended to go with a standard crank, non boost as this gives a better chain line, also I noticed CRC sell Hope disc shims in 1 & 2mm thickness to help with alignment of the disc, also a engineer at absolute black told me a similar thing when enquiring about chain rings & offsets.
I have in my grubby mits some 3mm spacers to centralize the rear wheel, a Roval Fattie SL carbon wheel and found out that Roval will be producing spacers for those wanting to use official parts though I’m unsure if they will be boost specific requiring the wheel to be re dished or as I’m doing, space it equally 3mm either side.
With Santa Cruz going 148 on the new bikes I’d think it’s a given that the new tallboy will be 148 too.