I have some old Hope Pro2's with Stans crests and wondering if its worth trying to make them work in a boost frame. I have some pro4 adapters to get it to boost but struggling to get gears working well as the cassette seems to far away and making the rear mech struggle.
I need to re-rim the wheels as well as the crest are a bit of a struggle with tyres I like to use/have. Its on a cheap Pinnacle Ramin I bought off Evans for £150 so want to keep reasonable price wise.
So is it worth making them work or sell and get boost ??
You may have to convert the pro2 to pro2 evo as well.
If you put 142 ends on the Pro 2s you can then buy a conversion kit and re-dish the wheel. But it is a bit of a faff as you have to put a washer on the axle when you take the wheel on/off. Really depends how often you take the wheel off
but struggling to get gears working well as the cassette seems to far away and making the rear mech struggle.
IMHO the hope adapters (and similar designs) are to blame here. Moving the cassette away from the frame to save a bit of faff is daft - especially given the front adapters, where spacers both sides are a better solution don't work like that and need a re-dish.
Get a cheap eBay boost adapter with two disc spacers, put both schools (and disc obviously!) on the NDS of the hub and re-dish the wheel.
But it is a bit of a faff as you have to put a washer on the axle when you take the wheel on/off. Really depends how often you take the wheel off
Well only once really. A dab of superglue on the washer face where it meets the hub and or some electrical tape will solve the issue.
As an owner of original non evo pro 2 hubs I always thought you need to convert to evo spec first to then run 142x12. That in itself is a fairly costly option and has prevented me bothering. If the hub is 142x12 capable already just whack all the spacers on the nds and redish the rim. That’s what I have done to a mavic hub in my boost frame. It was 135qr originally
I see the problem now Brian, thanks for that.
I'll have a look what's for sale and what these wheels might be worth.
Cheers Simon
You can run a Pro 2 142x12mm with the Pro2-specific 142x12mm axle and end caps, but they tend to snap. I ended up with a warranty stainless steel axle from Hope because of this.
If you convert to Evo you need axle, end caps, bearings and freehub - might as well buy a second-hand Boost hub or wheel if you're going to re-rim anyway.
I was going to re-build my non-Boost pro4's on to 29er rims, but ended up just getting new Boost hubs.
Interested to read this. I've got a non boost pro 4 on a boost frame with Hope's kit, running Shimano 12sp, with a fully aligned hanger, and I've given up trying to get the gears indexing nicely. Might try a generic boost kit and a redish. Cheaper than my plan of a new hub.
If you are running shimano 10 or 11 speed (dunno about 12) but have a look at the B knuckle link between the hanger and mech, on some there is a spacer in there that can be swapped round to move the mech further in board, this sorts out the mech running out of range of movement heading towards the biggest cog.
Pretty sure they've stopped that link for 12 speed, finally given up on it due to lack of DM frames!
I set my old Pro2 (non-Evo) up for 142x12mm with the Hope adapters and it worked with no issues for over 6 years. However, when I moved to a bike with Boost I was told you'd need Pro2 Evo or above for a conversion to Boost sizes. Hope do make an adapter that works on both the Pro2 Evo (135mm or 142mm) and Pro4 non-boost, I was given part number HUB493. May be worth selling the old wheels TBH, especially if the rims aren't right for your tyre preference as well.
Wolf Tooth do a kit for Hope that puts the cassette in the right place, and has no spacers that fall out, much better than Hooe's own brand one, been using one for over a year now, no issues.
I’ve had no problem running a pro 2 evo with the Hope boost kit. That’s with shimano 11s. Non boost chainline is better but boost does work.
At some point I’ll probably dish the rim over and rearrange some spacers so the cassette is in the right place but being able to swap the wheel between bikes has been useful.
Fwiw on the front if you have torque cap compatible forks the Hope ‘boostifying plus torque cap’ spacers work really nicely. Almost perfect spoke balance.
