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Its been a long time since I took a bike on a plane and bikes have changed since I last did so.
I will be using an Evoc bike bag pro.
The question is do you think I need to remove the rear mech? The reason I ask is because being a Sram Eagle AXS transmission system it is very different to remove and replace compared to the old derailleur systems. My worry is setting it up when I reach the destination.
Would you recommend removing or chancing leaving it in position?
Thanks
Might depend on the wheelbase of your bike. The area around the mech is pretty rigid in the bike bag. However, I had to remove my mech due to the wheelbase of the bike. It's a slightly older bike bag though.
Its a Yeti SB 140 (2025)
I would. Its very vulnerable
for the travel you only need to remove the batteries and carry them in your hand luggage.they are only small, but this also means the shifter.
If you remove the chain there is lots of movement in the axs mech tuck it up and out of the way
My worry is setting it up when I reach the destination.
Practice a couple of times before you go. It's just different to old mechs rather than being harder to setup
they are only small, but this also means the shifter.
CR2032 (and similar "button" batteries) are fine in hold luggage. Otherwise using AirTags and other luggage trackers wouldn't be allowed
Thanks mashr. I am happy to practice but I don’t know how to do it!
is there an “idiots guide/video” that will show me?
You're over thinking it - remove rear mech wrap, it up in bubble wrap, stow it in a pocket in the bag and carry the battery in your hand luggage. Refit once at destination and there should be no 'set up' required?
Yep - flown with mine a couple of times. Just remove and re-fit, no set up needed
Refit once at destination and there should be no 'set up' required?
Making sure the B-tension is where it should be - seconds of work - and that's about it
I got away with boxing my bike without remving the rear deraileur for about 8 flights before I was unlucky and it got damaged. Or rather the dropout got bent. At least on a steel bike the dropout could just be straightened. I now remove it. The downside of putting it back together is less than the downside of a broken mech needing replaced at the start of a holiday.
I already remove seatpost/saddle, pedals, front rack, handlebars, etc so another bit to reassemble isn't a big deal.
Making sure the B-tension is where it should be - seconds of work - and that's about it
No B-Tension screw (or limit screws) on Transmission mechs.
As above, super-easy once you're familiar with it.
the first gen AXS was easier than a cable mech where its still attached via the ccable, as you try to bubble wrap it and put it in the bag between the chainstays.
Then it got easier with AXS, just unbolt it from the bike, put it in the bag. None of the settings should change.
Transmission even easier - the hidden reason for the whole UDH hanger and so on is that the mech has no adjustments and thus can be installed quickly by unskilled labour - and more importantly, you put it on the frame, with the wheel off, no chain, and you will know that it is right. only way to set up or even just verify any other mech is to have the wheel in and the chain and cranks on.
No B-Tension screw (or limit screws) on Transmission mechs.
Hence no mention of a screw in my post 😉
This is one of the reasons you get to be smug by having wireless transmission. Remove chain, put it in a bag, remove mech, put it in a bag. Get to the other end and do the same in reverse. No having to keep it in a sensible position because of the cable, put it wherever you like (but I'd recommend not completely forgetting to put it somewhere though).