You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Asking for some comparative beam shots at different settings is hardly a big ask...
If you don’t want to do them - that’s one thing, but give the guy requesting them a break.
a break?
All I'm saying is beam comparisson pics are not hugely relivant without a properly set up consistant photographer/camera/setting and a similarly consistent comparisson pic to a light you actually use. Being honest I do actually think that's a pretty huge ask.
But it's ok now as molgrips has selflessly volunteered to do them. 😉
I’m with Geex here, I took a beam pic. Posted it then was asked for more...like it wasn’t good enough! I will likely take some more but having to mess around loading them with this crappy forum software is a pain! I would say if you are concerned about burn times, beam patterns blah blah, this isn’t the light for you. It’s a £55 halford light ffs!
I will say though that for me, this light coupled with ab exposure diablo. Is as good as any combo I have used. The battery is perfectly acceptable for 2 1/2 hour night rides if you cycle the modes (does anyone really ride with full beam on for 3hrs). It offers a wonderful clear wide, white light (see my picture of the beam) it’s good enough for Fast FOD off piste trails in the pitch black, so would suggest it’s good enough for weekly night rides pretty much any where.
I would say if you are concerned about burn times, beam patterns blah blah, this isn’t the light for you.
I'd have thought it was reasonable to be concerned about beam patters and burn times if you're buying any light, even a relatively cheap one? Not sure where you're coming from.
My point is that, a photo has been taken of the beam pattern, the real life usuage on burn times has been discussed. The light is a £50 Halfords special, I’m not sure what more information people can give!
My my suggestion would be for people to buy one and if they find it’s not fit for purpose, return it! It’s from Halfords for heavens sake not some moody online retailer! Both geex and I have posted our thoughts, answered questions and even taken time to post photos. Hence where I’m coming from. Sorry if that comes across grumpy, but it feels that sometimes people need to read a whole thread before posting!
Yes. A break. He’s not asking for a professional or informed opinion on whether they are helpful. He’s asking because he thinks it will be useful.
read a whole thread before posting!
As I did.
Dick - had the same problem with the rubber spacer on the out front mount. Its a real ball ache to squeeze close enough to get the bolt to bite
Got it on eventually using vice grips to close the thing up and turn the bolt in
I know it’s not strictly relevant to the light in question, but I can’t believe the makers of cheap and not so cheap bike lights – yes, Exposure, I mean you – still haven’t managed to devise a switching method that doesn’t mean constantly cycling through increasing light levels to make a downward adjustment. Have I missed something. It just seems odd
My diablo is programmable, with tap function. I use a mode where I have dipped and full power which gives me about 2 1/2hrs use and mode change by punching myself on the head.
You make a good point though, wouldn’t it be nice if you could program a lights power and function rather than work off a set of preset options? For me the function click through on the Bikehut light is the worse thing about it. Albeit it’s not a deal breaker! For such a tiny amount of money I think it’s great value
I'm not even sure which client Jamj1974 is even acting for.
As I did
If you did you would’ve seen the picture of the beam pattern and answers on burn time. I’m happy to answer questions and help out, in fact there have been at least 3 in depth reviews of this light now just in this thread.
Lulz at you guys.
My diablo is programmable, with tap function. I use a mode where I have dipped and full power which gives me about 2 1/2hrs use and mode change by punching myself on the head.
Yep, I use Exposure lights in the same way - program set to two levels, alternate between them - but without the punching myself in the head. The bar remote works pretty well, though not, I guess, if the light is on your head.
If you want three levels though, you're back to cycling sequentially through levels again though.
No agreed, bit shoddy that you have to click through, especially on a light 4 times the price of the Halfords job. In reality though for most people the 2 functions are enough in terms of night ride ‘juice’ different kettle of fish I’m sure for those crazy guys that do the 24hr events.
I would love the ability to programme my light properly. Maybe via a laptop or a phone. I only really need a couple of settings. I certainly don’t need some weird pulsing light function I get on the halford job. Some of the settings on there remind me of night club lights from the 1990’s
I bought the Hope QR handlebar clamp...wiggled around with the handlebar spacers and the unit screws straight on to the light. Properly solid and doesn't appear to have any of the wobble the outfront clamp or rubber strap creates.
8 quid from CRC and is a definite benefit to the light!
linky?
I'm guessing this one:
I use the Lumicycle one - I have a pair hanging around from an old set, and they can still be found here:
https://www.lumicycle.com/accessories/q-r-large-camlock-bracket.html
I imagine they're both the same, but I've not checked whether the Hope oneallows you to put a bolt up into the light body or not. But we're looking at £8 for something you can return if it's wront, or double the amount for the Lumicycle one.
Couple of other updates from me:
Halfords seems to have put the price of the light up from £50 to £60.
I bought a second remote the other week and broke it open. Inside are two microswitches - the one that gives a click when you lift the switch lever but doesn't do anything isn't actuall connected. The internals are basic and open to the elements, but I'm guessing that doesn't really mean much with such low voltages. There are two wires from the USB C cable to the microswitch, and what looks like a couple of teeny resistors. I have pics, but no idea how to post them on the new forum.
I'm guessing you could hugely cut down the switch to something the size of about four 5ps stacked on top of each other to strap around a grip just above a dropper remote. Seriously: it wouldn't take a huge amount of faff to do. I need to sort out my garage / shed / work shizzle first in order to do this. More later, once I've had a chance to tinker.
Tempted by one for the misses but I do like the 'Race' mode on my Lesyne 1500i which makes the light have just high and low power modes. Otherwise the lights look very similar.
Also using a Hope qr light clamp, and it holds the light solidly, and yes it is bolted into the light body.
I have the 1000 lumen version and the remote works like this:
1 click forwards when the light is OFF, lights battery indicator in red to show how much charge is left.
1 click forwards when the light is ON, does nothing.
1 click forwards and hold when the light is OFF, turns the light ON
1 click forwards and hold when the light is ON, turns the light OFF
Clicking down when the light is ON, cycles through the different modes.
Mine is attached to my road bike at the mo, and so far haven't been impressed with any of the mounts.
The out front mount is too flexible and causes the light to vibrate all over the place. Its a good idea but just not stiff enough. Neither of the rubber mounts inspired confidence.
It is now attached to a K Edge out front GoPro mount and is solid.
Not inspired by the out front mount from the off. I wanted something more substantial. The fannying about with the thumb screw, it never quite made good contact, made me look elsewhere.
Hope clamp, aluminium spacer now rock solid.
[img] 
[/img]
Great light, let down a bit by the mount and flimsy remote which I found a bit cumbersome.
Go-pro style mount modified from £5 ebay jobby:
Re-housed the remote switch with a 3D printed jobby, happy to share the .stl file if anyone wants to print their own.
Ooh, nice one. I'd like the file please, got a 3D printer here at work 🙂
I'll send PM.
Oh my word! If anyone fancies making a couple more, let me know. Will be very happy to swap for beer tokens.
Bought the light on these recommendations, and pleased with it!
However not sure if mine has a charging problem: No matter how long I charge it for (from usb port or plug) the top light never stops flashing, suggesting it isn't at 100%. All the lights might up when I do the battery test though.
Can anyone confirm all their lights do/don't stop flashing when charging?! Thanks!
The red lights stop flashing on mine when it's fully charged. Are you using a 5A power supply?
BTW, on the buttons, it might be worth considering changing the orentation of the hooks for mounting so it's a bit more like the old Di2 shiftery thing:
Is it supposed to light up when charging? It lit up the first time but isn’t anymore?
I see someone else has the same issue above
Good idea Bent Udder,
Mk2:
If anyone wants one, it's 1 x beer token posted. (£4.50 around these parts)
That's really cool Mikey but I don't really get the point. ie. it looks way more complicated and slower to cycle through that flicking the lever.
Does it have two buttons? (one to cycle through modes and one to switch on/off)
Geex,
yeah, the buttons just do what the lever did (up was on/off, down was cycling the modes)
The reason I did it was I struggled to mount the stock remote anywhere, I had to strap it to one of the grips and kept accidentally cycling the modes. Plus it's a pretty flimsy bit of rubbish tbh.
Not saying my version isn't a flimsy bit of rubbish.. just less so IMHO!
Quick question for anyone who has the 1000lm bikehut light.
What does it weigh?
Thx
I wrapped a slither of Masic tape round my bar between the lock on collar and front brake lever and mount the remote there. it's not super securely mounted but much more so than mounted to the bare bar and never actually moves in use.
the bikehut remote is kinda cheap but well for a fiver it couldn't really not be, eh?
@ Geex
Bare light unit (no mounts) = 210g
Light + outfront mount = 270g
Light + rubber mount with 'stabiliser' = 240g
These from my Feedback sports scales
HTH
Thanks man.
Pretty much exactly the same weight as the 1600lm light so I'm guessing it'll use the same batteries/housing but different electronics/LEDs? . Reason I asked was wondering if it might be lighter to helmet mount one. Just noticed I have a spare helmet the rubber mount attaches to perfectly (angle spot on and fairly securely)
Hi.
Can this be used whilst charging with a power bank ?
Cheers
Daft question, but why would you? It surely won't charge but just drain the power bank...unless you are asking as you effectively want to increase burn time by adding 'more' battery?
Hi Dickbarton
yes mate my rides are are sometimes quite long in the night and would like the option to extend the burn time if required. I have a few cree lights but this looks spot on for my helmet.
Ah ok...would it be better to have a unit with separate battery pack so you could ask someone like mtbbatteries to make a bigger battery pack to last longer? Might be more expensive but maybe easier as once the rubber covers are removed, the light isn't waterproof.
That’s really cool Mikey but I don’t really get the point. ie. it looks way more complicated and slower to cycle through that flicking the lever.
I haven't tried Mikey's switch (although I'm just about to send him some beer tokens if he's willing to print a couple more for me), but I've found the stock one to be a bit of a hassle. Mostly it's to do with the lever throw and lack of positivity in the action. So you've got a longish throw for a single acuation (and you need to do a few of those to cycle through) and it feels really feeble. I also found that if a bit of rubber got in the way (and I used a different o ring thingy to get it tighter on the bars) then it wouldn't activate. This is, of course, massive splitting hairs as it was intended to go on the flat part of a pair of road drops, possibly with tape on as well, rather than the bare bar between grip and brake lever.Mikey's switch enclosure looks like it'd sort out a few of the grumbles I have about the existing set-up. I've noticed on my last few rides, by the way, that I'm leaving it in 1600lm and simply switching it off if I'm not descending, and letting the Exposure Axis on my noggin burn on. For a two hour thrash around in the dark, that's perfectly adequate, but I'd expect to do a bit more flipping around between modes on both lights for anything longer.
Bent Udder, yeah, that pretty much sums up my experience with the stock lever.
YGM
Cheers
Mike
Ah, thanks, Mikey!
dazzzzbo - to confirm, I plugged a 4x18650 enclosure (something like this) with a USB tail I had lying around into the charging port, and it didn't interfere with the light's running as far as I could see.
Only downer is that you can't use the remote while doing that. I don't know if the large socket for charging phones and whatnot could be used for power in, which would free up the USB C port for the remote, but that might be an idea.
You'd need a male-to-male USB A cable to try that out, with the usual 'might fry your light, introduce your children to jazz and rock and roll and ruin the rise of your homemade morning rolls' variety.
<div class="bbp-author-role"></div>
Isn't all this talk of external battery packs kind of missing the point of an all in one light? There are tons of affordable 1600lm ish head units for use with external batteries around already
Yes and no. I bought the light because I've been thinking an all-in-one would be a far neater way of running a light than my old set-up - the 4x18650 enclosure and a bt40s head. The old lash-up works pretty well (and I've a huge supply of Sony 18650s from a bunch of Vaio laptop batteries a friend gave me after his laptop died a few years ago), but I always hate having all those wires flapping about and worry about the pack coming adrift, scraping my paint up or getting caught in the works.
From that perspective, the Halfords does the job perfectly - I night ride maybe once or twice a week in the winter, and rarely for more than three hours at a time. I can pop it on whatever bike I'm riding that evening as easily as I attach a rear light, and not have to worry too much.
But I do also occasionally do longer rides - stupid things like doing the London to Brighton off road, then turning round and riding home, or overnight road centuries - and that calls for longer burn times. So knowing I can top up the light from a battery bank if I needed to is actually really helpful. I may never need to do it, but knowing it's possible is actually quite helpful.
At the prices these all-in-one lights now are, you can have a small one as a backup or dusk insurance, and a big one for big rides.
The beauty of this light for me is convenience. It'll do short (up to 2.5hr) proper rides no problem but it's way less faff to fit and massively lighter than my more powerful longer burntime external battery powered lights. I'll actually be sticking this on my lid to compliment those next time I use them.
The 1hr on Overdrive is 100% accurate.
Misty dank night last night with fogged up a bit glasses so ran it full beam. Until suddenly it was like being pitched into darkness on the emergency setting. After my eyes adjusted i could see white lines and cateyes reflecting but it is a serious change in illumination. You couldnt see potholes etc.
I hadnt actually looked before to see how long overdrive lasted.
Based on the comments here I bought the 500 lumen (yes I know it's a different light but hopefully of the same quality). I've used it for a few commutes this week, which include some unlit and tree covered tracks and it's fine on the second highest setting.
Maybe a bit less spread than my magicshine external pack light but more convenient and modes are much more usable. Impressed.
Anyone put this thing on some scales?
I was idly considering something like this for say the HT550 or similar, and I wondered if it would provide enough light for a few hours at the beginning or end of each day without needing a charge.
250g or thereabouts depending on which mount you use.
Don't know what the HT550 is. Did a flat 3hr road ride on a mix of lit and unlit roads with mine last night fine with loads of battery left in the 3rd brightest mode if that helps. (I'd have gone up to the 1000lm setting if there had been any fast downhill sections (but top speed was only 27mph) but there wasn't
All this info is in the thread
More and more impressed with this light. 3 hour ride the other day, mostly on the 3rd and 4th settings (bright enough for off road group + solo road ride home) and the indicator was still showing 3 hours!
Oh and charge light issue went away...possibly just needed a long charge first time out. Who knows. Working great anyway!
I'm having a bit of hassle sorting out posting pics here, buy Mikey's sent me a couple of switch enclosures. They're pretty handy, and a lot easier to use and mount that the originals so far. More on that soon.
@jb89 Yeah first few charges took bloody ages to complete with mine too but it now charges much quicker.
I bought the bikehut helmet mount strap (GoPro mount) at the weekend and the light had its first outing last night it's pretty decently made, fits easily and is nice n secure. Great value for a fiver.
Have switched from the rubber mount to the Gopro mount on the light now after finally receiving a bunch of Gopro stem cap mounts from China for a couple of quid each to fit to all the bikes I ride at night (except my roadbike which already has an alu garmin/Gopro outfront mount).
Light turned itself off without warning last night. Won't turn on. Is showing all 4 red lights flashing when trying to charge.
Its pretty dead.
Where is the bloody receipt
Mmnn, mine went a bit loopy this morning after some heavy rain. The remote is kaput, I feared this tbf as it's not the best interface.
The light itself decided to cycle through the settings intermittently on the way home.
Changed it for a new unit, bloody glad I kept the receipt.
Will ditch the remote and hope for the best.
I think mine has been shook to death using the standard out front mount.
Found the receipt and will push for a refund.
#TooRad4BIKEHUT
#TooShonkyForModernDayRoads
Refunded anyway.
Ravemen PR1200 ordered for £76.50 which I should have done in the first place.
Cheers bent udder 👍🏻
I know what people saying about defeating the object but I would use it without the wire most of the time. But if I did want to go for a longer ride I alwasys have a power bank in my pack which I could utilise. I have loads of the magishine copies but the fact that the bikehut one comes with GoPro mount will be spot on for my helmet and less wobbly than my current light.
Black Friday deals on all these BikeHut lights...
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-lights/bike-lights?brand=Bikehut&pageNo=1&pageSize=21&sort=price_for_ranking+desc
that's annoying.. wonder if I could exchange my 500 for the 1000. More for the extended battery than the light, the 500 on full blast is plenty for what I need.
Just bought the 1600 light and remote for £40! Bargain!
For a nice secure fit is it best to get the hope mount from CRC then? Not fussed about the light being out front so to speak.
Bargain
I just bought a £3 go pro bar mount from eBay. Not QR but super sturdy which is what the light needs
Aaargh, it is such a bargain but do I need one????????????????
Worth a punt for £35, even if I only use it on the road bike!
For a nice secure fit is it best to get the hope mount from CRC then?
Yes!
I absolutely don’t need this / another light, but for £35 it’s so tempting.......
£31.50 here with light10 discount code...
https://www.cyclerepublic.com/bikehut-1600-lumen-front-light.html
Even better! Cheers, ordered 🙂
Does anyone use the 1000 lumen on their lid? Is it too heavy or ideal to be helmet mounted?
Ta
Silly cheap.
I’ve clearly for a problem - I just ordered one even though I don’t need it!
Curious to compare it to the Ryder Alumia 1600 also available from cycle republic that I already have.
Well I tried mine out in the living room last night. Just cycling through it would appear the Cateye I'm replacing was roughly outputting the same as the emergency setting.
As someone said lights have come a long way, frankly the fact you can split hairs on a light with this output and price bracket says how much!
Curious to know whether a 1000 or 1600 would be best as a helmet light to compliment a 1600 on the bars?
perhaps a tad excessive but assuming two 1600s on the bars and a 1000 on the lid is overkill?
perhaps a tad excessive but assuming two 1600s on the bars and a 1000 on the lid is overkill?
Do you regularly ride near a collapsed star or in an environment entirely covered in black velvet?
Does anyone use the 1000 lumen on their lid? Is it too heavy or ideal to be helmet mounted?
Curious to know whether a 1000 or 1600 would be best as a helmet light to compliment a 1600 on the bars?
They both weigh the same so cost* (was) the only difference.
250g
Mine wasn't too heavy the other night for a 2 hr ride on the helmet of an 8st girl to cope with but this being STW I'm sure some middle aged man will cohime in to disagree.
*at £31 it's a no-brainer which to choose
Haha,
Right then. One 1600 on the bars and one on the lid. Job jobbed.
But imagine 3200 lumens on the bars with a 1000 lumen spot on the helmet. Would be epic and all for under £100 right now......
I ordered one of these for the MIL, but i was so impressed with it I’ve just ordered another for myself.
great, even at the full rrp, superb for £35.
Anyone got the out in front mount working with a wahoo? I've just epoxyed on a mount in the correct orrentation. I'll find out if it worked in 12 hours time....
Couldn't see any combo metal mounts on fleabag that would work with a wahoo.
Can you imagine the conditions in a factory that can produce this type of light and sell it to the west for a price that still allows Halfords to discount it to this degree and make a margin.
But anyway....4800 lumens eh!