[Closed] Bike Weight?

It does make a huge difference if you drop a few pounds from a bike build, so from that perspective I care.

I wouldn't spend £30 more to save 10g, though...

You obviously haven't seen [url= http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/ ]this site[/url] then!

£32 for 10g? I usually reckon on £1 per 1g weight saved.

I do, a lightweight single speed is a thing of joy.

me. but I find around 24-25lbs is a good weight, don't really care for much less but if it is then it's a bonus. I find if the weight goes up too much it becomes a bit of a heave ho to get up hills and the handling /acceleration isn't as quick /sharp.

Kev

I agree. Bike anorexia.

I've ridden 40lb bikes that pedal/handle better than 30lb ones.

There's a lot more to a good bike than simply making it as light as possible.

Fine if you are an XC racer and every extra bit of energy burned is a further nano-second away from the podium, but for most weekened warriors ragging it around a trail centre, it just seems a bit pointless.

It's like everything else though, just do what makes you happy. If you prefer your bike a bit more burly, buy a big bike. If you like it light, shed some weight. Simples!

Riders should always weigh themselves first before worrying about spending X amount of money on shaving grams, not point obsessing about bike weight if you're a tub 'o lard. 😉

carbon bottle holders 😆 £40!!!!

just dont fill it to the top 😉

it gets silly when your spending hundreds changing components to shave grams.

but if building a bike always "weigh" the options up - it'll be more cost effective to spend £50 more on lighter wheels rather than replacing heavy wheels with new light weight ones.

I don`t obsess about it too much,but my bike is much nicer to ride in its 24lb guise than it was when it was 28lbs.

+1 for: £1 per g saved = buy! (this is applied when comparing like for like products when they need replacing in the first place).

carbon bottle holders £40!!!!

Or £20 for a pair posted from Hong Kong, although I do find carbon bottle cages to be a bit crap.

I saw someone in a Ferrari once that must have cost £100 000.
It was in a line of traffic going exactly the same speed as my 20 year old Land Rover which cost about £96000 less.
Makes £32 for a seat clamp look a bargain.

I did care, but as the rule of £1 per gram doesnt always run true I am subsequently drained of cash and residing myself to get on with riding and stop being an overly obsessive big girl!!
Thinking of removing a few spokes, skewers, grips, stem bolts and my kidneys. Every litte helps 🙂

I have no idea what weight my bikes are. Nor do I care. They are fun, I'm happy.

I'd go as light as I can afford (which isn't much) because I am a tub of lard.

The long term for me is to get physically lighter - arguably the principle reason I got a bike in the first place.

Going from a budget hardtail to a £2k Trek FS had a MASSIVELY noticeable improvement on my hill climbing ability in terms of bike weight alone, as well as improving my enthusiasm overall for up/down terrain. That said, switching bikes gave me a STEP CHANGE of around 5-6 lbs in weight - we're not talking a few grammes, which I wouldn't have noticed.

Assuming I get slimmer and fitter, I'm not sure how far I will continue down the weight saving path - it's a law of diminishing returns - increasing spend with gradually decreasing benefit.

I saw someone in a Ferrari once that must have cost £100 000.
It was in a line of traffic going exactly the same speed as my 20 year old Land Rover which cost about £96000 less.
Makes £32 for a seat clamp look a bargain.

Only if you assume that getting from A to B faster is the purpose of a Ferrari... 😉

Lighter wheels & tyres are great so long as they're up to the riding you do.

The same applies to all components in my mind, no use having uber light stuff if it's not strong enough for what you do

Put another way - does anyone think I will be better off taking my 30lbs Prince Albert rather than my 22lbs Rocky Mountain for a solo Mayhem ride this year? Not worth obsessing over but certainly worth keeping an eye on when spec'ing a build - first suss forks I ever had were 2.2kg and no better or stronger than the 1.7/1.6kg Revs & Rebas I ride now.

My Giant Reign x1 with Joplin 4 and dual ply tyres weights in at 41lb but I don't carei enjoy riding it

me

what coogan said. I've built my bikes to suit the terrain where I live and the type of riding I do. No idea how much they weigh but I love the way they ride.

I do. But it's just one factor.

I've ridden 40lb bikes that pedal/handle better than 30lb ones

There's a lot more to a good bike than simply making it as light as possible.

I've lusted after light bikes for years I've finally got myself a lightish bike and i rather like it.

There's a lot more to a good bike than simply making it as light as possible.

Yep, my swift weighs 28lbs and rides better than any hardtail I've ever had. It's also the heaviest by quite some margin.

I miss my 19lb Cannondale... It was the fastest thing I had ever ridden, and I deeply regret selling it. Before you say anything, it was even superb on the downs. Sigh...

I'm not obsessed but any way I can sensibly (Cost effectively) reduce the weight I'm lugging about I'll consider.

There are actually some quite cheap ways to keep the weight of a bike down too, not all cheaper stems/seatposts/bars weigh a ton, it' simply that people only tend ot look at the weight figures on pricier kit ignoring the details of the "Cheap tat"...

Plus there's also the weight penaly for having all the bells and whistles fitted;

-3x10 Drives may be the newest thing but I bet you could have a lighter 1 or 2 x 9 setup for much less that would give plenty of usable ratios...
-uppy/downey posts (although I quite like the idea) do generally come with a weight penalty.
-Bigger brake rotors than you perhaps need, simply add more mass...

But those are all things to consider after you get the overall layout of the bike right, handling before weight loss in my opinion, the lightest bike in the world may barely bother the scales, but if it rides like a Mare and beats you up then it's not worth having IMO...

Put another way - does anyone think I will be better off taking my 30lbs Prince Albert rather than my 22lbs Rocky Mountain for a solo Mayhem ride this year? Not worth obsessing over but certainly worth keeping an eye on when spec'ing a build - first suss forks I ever had were 2.2kg and no better or stronger than the 1.7/1.6kg Revs & Rebas I ride now.

Ignore the weights, which one is more comfortable to ride for long periods?

Take em both out for a good long all day ride and see which one leaves you feeling more beaten up at the end...

uppy/downey posts (although I quite like the idea) do generally come with a weight penalty.

The time lost to the extra 1/2lb for an uppy-downy post is made up on the first descent.

who actually gives a t0ss about how heavy a bike is?

Me. Light bikes are generally more fun to ride. Each of my bikes has a sensibly light build. My XC race bike weighs 21.5lbs* and hammering up climbs on it is a joy. That's why I pay attention to it.

It's not about seconds gained or lost, so people should stop using that as an argument. No-one gives a crap unless you are in a race. It just feels nice, in the same way that say a Mazda MX5 feels nice to drive even when you are not on a track.

* still with riser bars, 2.0 tyres, discs and full suspension.

in the same way that say a Mazda MX5 feels nice to drive even when you are not [s]on a track[/s] a hair dresser.

There, fixed that for you...

I think about that 30-40lbs weight is normally for a bike. Its easy to run and balancing.

how about weight as a % of body weight?

i'm 60kg so i reckon a lb saved for me makes more of a difference than for someone heavier

I can afford to lighten my bike, so why wouldn't I?

I think about that 30-40lbs weight is normally for a bike. Its easy to run and balancing.

I wouldn't go anywhere near a bike weighing that much. Lighter bikes climb better than heavier bikes, Like everything diminishing returns does play a part. Then again i am of the opinion that 140mm is pointless for the majority of riders and they would be better off riding something more appropriate for the riding they do rather than believing the latest industry fad.

All of this is only applicable if you are already a super lean XC whippet.
Because it would be a far bigger benefit to loose 1/2 a stone off your person than loose 1000grms off your bike 😉

Always had light bikes. Epiphany is now sub 25lbs, why would anyone not want a bike which is lighter rather than heavier...?

I've ridden 40lb bikes that pedal/handle better than 30lb ones

A good light one will [b]always[/b] beat a good heavy one

I've never ridden a bike that weighs anything like 40lbs and I probably never will.

A good light one will always beat a good heavy one

Depends on what you are going to use the bike for.

I agree, if you take two identically set up XC bikes that have the same general ride feel, the lighter will be preferable.

But, in order to achieve, say a 5lbs weight saving on an already good DH/FR bike, you have to make some sacrifices (or need to be prepared to stump up a disproportionate amount of money for exotic parts and their regular replacement).

So if you mean "beat" in pure race terms, then maybe. But in the real world, a broken £8,000 trick DH bike that is a few pounds lighter than it's sturdier built counterpart might not really have "beaten" it.

So if you mean "beat" in pure race terms, then maybe

I was using it the sense of the old boxing saying

"a good young 'un will always beat a good old 'un"

Cracks me up that Stans rims have different weights depending on the colour - white ones weigh 15-20g more than black 🙂

But they're still faster 😆

I spend £55 on a Tune Wurger seatclamp. I did it not only because its light, but its a thing of beauty and they don't wear or break. Infact I have one on each of my bikes.

IME for general trail riding, a lighter bike is generally more fun.

Irrespective of the chub I could loose, lighter bikes are more responsive and less effort in general to move about, including climbing. For me, this translates to being able to stay out longer before being knackered, or going faster for longer, or getting further up that techy demanding climb.

Being a svelte 14st 😳 I'm obviously never going to be a race monkey, and I work to the 'lighter without compromising durability or strength' maxim thats already been quoted earlier.

If I can get lighter and can afford it, whats the big deal? Is this Kilogram envy? 😕

my transition bottlerocket is 35lbs so my lbs say when they weighed it, i use it for everything even commuting to coaching 🙂

I like light bikes. if I could shave any more weight of me I'd do that as well. Power to (usable)weight ratio always wins in my book 😀

been there, smiles to miles wins 🙂 🙂

I know how much my bikes weight and like to ride a reasonably light bike while still enjoying it. I've got no skills and pretend to ride something that could be classed as XC at most so I buy parts for that type of riding. XT + RS Reba + some reasonable finishing kit builds into a 25-26lbs steel HT which is light enough for me.
My OH's brother races a lot and has a 09 Epic that is 4lbs lighter than my HT. He's a skinny racing snake with no excess fat so saving weight on his bike does make a difference.

As for road bikes 19-20lbs is as light as I want it to be for my weight. I had a go on a 17.5lbs bike and it felt very fragile and not that much quicker than my steel road bike.

I just buy parts that work and will never buy weightweenies bits like aluminium cassettes and carbon fibre chainrings but if someone can afford them and wants to buy them then go ahead if it makes him happy. I'm always happy after a ride so I think I'm doing it right.

if you race or you ride at a good weight then there is something to it and at the other extreme there is no point having a super heavy bike.
That said plenty of MTB are some way from a racing weight yet they think nothing of spending £50 to save 10 grammes. Utterly pointless as you still have to lug your fat lardy ass up the hill 😉

I care but not excessively

Yep I care, but wouldn't compromise functionality. Being light there aren't that many parts I seem to break luckily, so it's not much of a compromise!

White components nearly always weigh more, as you can't anodise white.

Scienceofficer - Member
If I can get lighter and can afford it, whats the big deal? Is this Kilogram envy?

I've a Specialized Enduro which weighs 27lb and a Marin Wolf Ridge that weighs 33lb.

The bike that's the least tiring on a long ride is actually the Marin...the only thing the Enduro does better is climb.

Suspension performance and geometry have as much to do with it as outright weight savings.

Ok,

light bikes are better in my opinion - I am faster / better climbing and able to ride for longer on my light bike than my heavier built bike - but both are fun to ride in different circumstances - but IF its going to be a long, long all day epic xc in the hills ride with a few hike a bike sections I will always take the light one and make a compromise on the descents - WHICH is a built in safety factor - if i mince the descents I am less likely to hurt myself and put me / buddies in a pickle...

Anyways - to those who say weight doesnt matter should take a big ride with a lot of carrying and pushing and see how they feel after that !

faastmoto

I think about that 30-40lbs weight is normally for a bike. Its easy to run and balancing.

13 to 18kg... 13 is starting to get heavy to me, 18 is just outrageous.

10kg (22lbs) is my target, not sure what weight my bike is at the moment, but it is quite light (Cannondale hardtail, 1x9, XT).

I still think some things are worth the weight. I run 2.4 tyres and lock on grips, for example

mrmo -

Like everything diminishing returns does play a part. Then again i am of the opinion that 140mm is pointless for the majority of riders and they would be better off riding something more appropriate for the riding they do rather than believing the latest industry fad.

Diminishing returns do come into it. It's like the jump from XT to XTR for saving about 4% weight... not worth it unless you are racing and in with a chance of winning.

Or you like bling 🙂

Agree with the suspension thing as well, short n stiff is better 🙂

grannygrinder

it would be a far bigger benefit to loose 1/2 a stone off your person than loose 1000grms off your bike

1/2 a stone is about 3kg, so yes it is worth loosing that off yur belly rather than 1kg off the bike.

However, if you can save a few kg of off your bike for not too much cost, or can afford to go for it, then I don't see why not. having a 2 or 3 kilo lighter bike is always going to be more fun. And it isn't an either / or thing either... loose yourself 1/2 a stone off your belly and 1500 grams of the bike, and fly up the hills! That's the equivalent of 4.5 litres of water jettisoned!

Cracks me up that Stans rims have different weights depending on the colour - white ones weigh 15-20g more than black

Im lucky enough to have several bikes. The best, most fun and nicest to ride xc is a 20lb ss.

It's a factor when I'm buying components but so is cost, durability and end use. There's no point carrying unescessary weight around. All things being equal* I will pick the lighter component if I have the choice.

I don't understand upgrades, replacing one perfectly good working component with another that's only marginally better. Wait till it needs replacing and then consider the options.

*Things are rarely equal (Stong, Light, Cheap - pick 2)

i care about weight because you feel the difference but always run decent rubber and saddles because there important.i weight 73kg and im 6ft3 so i think i couldnt lose anymore weight with out significant power loss.my bikes are some of the lightest in the uk nps but theyre still great to ride and on hills you can tell...
my side
Bruce

Only time I 'notice' the weight of my bike is when lifting it over the gate at work - that said, doing it a couple of times every day has gotta be good training for all those fences and stiles en-route to Cwmcarn. Reckon it weighs about 30lb but I've just replaced my air shock with coil so maybe a bit more . . . I'll check . . .

Hmmmmmm . . . 32lb . . . guess I'll be slower around the Twrch this afternoon then - more time to catch the sun I reckon 8)

Like everything else it can go too far, but, when I stuck my 729s and dualplies on my Mmmbop it stopped being any fun to ride, just became a sledge. The Hemlock with its Lyriks in is harder to move around than it is with its Revelations. And I can put my rigid XC bike places I can't put either of the other 2 just because of its ridiculous agility and willingness to leave the ground.

I wish I could get the Hemlock back under 30lbs as it's lost a little of its playfulness but the tradeoff of the weight is worthwhile for the job it does. If it was just doing red routes and XC and stuff I'd say it's too heavy. Everyone strikes their own balance that feels right to them.

So yeah, I weightweenie to some extent, my main bikes have XTR cranks, a lot of thought goes into this part vs that part when I'm buying (but I've never replaced a seatclamp to save 10 grams! I've just bought the lighter seatclamp on day one) and I spend a lot on wheels.

on a mountain bike, i would say tyre choice makes more of a difference than a few lbs here or there... obviously, a 22lb bike is going to accelerate and climb better than a 32lb bike, but some tyres just seem to make the bike feel so much more 'alive' and fast rolling.

Cracks me up that Stans rims have different weights depending on the colour - white ones weigh 15-20g more than black

Black rims are normally anodised, white has to be painted and is thus heavier.

Personally, I couldnt give a toss what my bike weighs. I think I have enough midle age spread to lose before spending extra on my bike. I've had lighweight bikes, and big ol' munters, but the enjoyment factor for me isnt solely about how the bike feels, its actually being out there in the fresh air, just riding. The bike is only one factor - I enjoy being out walking too, but don't stress on how heavy my boots are - its more about whether they fit properly, and whether they are up to the job.

On any build I do, I tend to go for sensible, durable components, before looking at their weight. My usual considerations are function, durability, price, weight and form. usually in that order, but sometimes I see something that makes me think "WOW - I MUST HAVE THAT", and this is where form overrides all the others.

From my experinece although my Ti HT feels livelier at 25lb ish I reckon that for getting around a trail centre or even a natural XC route my heavier, 29lb ish BFe will overall be quicker despite extra weight due to faster down hills and more easy to ride latter through rugged stuff; too light a bike can be knocked off line too easily, wider tyres will roll through rough bits more smoothly---or at least thats what I think / find from these 2 bikes. Doesnt mean to say teh lighter bike isn`t fun to ride though

Someone in a similar thread mentioned the stiffer, longer etc bike viagra approach there is at the moment. So true. I agree with the bike anorexia idea too.

Isn't there the idea of rotating weight vs static weight having a bigger effect on performance (lighter wheels>lighter bar/seatpost). I have also heard the point made of sprung vs unsprung weight as the suspension is helping to bear the load.

I personally have 2x9 on my bouncer for clearance and usability, 3x10 would be a waste of weight, space and money. I did splash on a gravity dropper which has definitely increased the smile:mile ratio!

Handling is not purely defined by weight (or cost), although it obviously has a strong influence. I quite like the option of weight shaving through second hand upgrades, we can't all afford to [s]spunk[/s] spend £55 on a seatclamp!

1. Diet.
2. Haircut, Nº1 all over
3. Get fit.
Only when the above have been achieved and Merida are knocking on the door with a contract will I worry about bike weight, obsessively. 😉

The problem with weight watchers is it hard to go back to a porker.

When you pay for light weight stuff are you paying the same product but made from lighter but worse materials? I just say this as a lovely light weight sram rear mech I had bent, stepped the threads instead of the mech hanger breaking as it seemed to be made out of cheese. How many forks have rubbish internal made of plastic or light alloy that break all too easily. I like light but not at the expense of duribility, fun and too much cost.

Just ride more and get fitter simples

hambl90 - Member

Just ride more and get fitter simples

Doesn't matter how fit you are, a light bike always reacts different to a heavy bike, just physics really. Some people obsess about going up, well tbh I don't mind dragging a bit of extra weight up the hill but I don't like it much going back down.

I weigh my bikes.
Mainly because I can.
Try and get rotating mass down.
But I really don't mind weight that works, a brooks saddle on a long distance road bike for example. It may weigh 200g more but after 100 miles of no arse bother It's worth the weight.

Another advantage of a light bike is that you can add weight (for a reason), and its still not a heavy bike.

I sent my Thor's away for a service and stuck a pair of 36's in my 456Ti, its still a light bike.

Sticking SB8's on transformed my bike. Can't wait to get some on the 29er.

I'm a hefty forty-odd yr old rider, riding my 22lb Whyte two or three times a week. Always with a lot of climbing and never compromising on fast descents. I do obsess a bit over bike bits but believe that quality lasts. I rarely break stuff.
At the end of the day the bike is fast and responsive and makes me grin, regularly.

I did start off by trying to lose weight from my Wolf Ridge and successfully got it down to sub 30lb. I realised that I was trying to make the bike something it wasn't and in doing so compromised a lot of solid feel of the bike, which was the reason I bought it in the first place.

I transferred the lightweight kit onto my Enduro and am pleased with the result. I have two completely different bikes for different purposes, with a 6lb weight difference between them.

However, it always surprises me just how much difference in my post ride fatigue can be attributed to tyre choice and suspension efficiency, as opposed to whether I'm carrying the weight of a decent takeaway around with me or not.

That said, if I could have a Wolf Ridge that weighed 26lb and packed 160mm forks at a less than ruinous financial penalty then I probably would snap it up.