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Got a motley collection of old bike tools that I want to update. What's a good value reasonable toolkit for modern use?
Guess I don't need a box or anything but what brand tools give good value? What you got?
On One (and other places) often sell a set of tools that should help with most jobs for around £30. Quality is OK then you can upgrade the tools with a decent one as you wear them out/break them.
Or if you have some tools just buy decent ones as you need them
Get a bike stand, if you haven't got one.
Old tools are good, all tell a story!
Just update with what you need.
I use Park Tools, mixed with all sorts from Snap-On to whatever works.
I tend to keep my eyes open on e-bay for tool job lots, as these can turn up a few gems, any rubbish gets given away to my hamfisted brother!
But you must be prepared to travel to collect!
Good quality workstand, allen keys and tyre levers are a good start in my view.
And now I've finally exhausted my ginormous tub of castrol I am expecting one of those small grease guns with tube of grease attached to be a lot more convenient than the current 'big blob on my finger' technique.
I'd scour the european websites for Unior stuff.Eg;
http://eu-bikeshop.com/en/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=unior&submit_search=
Loads more out there.
It is every bit as good as Park (I have a fair bit of both).
For general tools, sites like Primetools, expert toolstore and toolshack always have good deals on Facom, Britool, Bahco, Beta (Stahlwille still expensive though!) all are good, just grab whatever you can when the offers are on. They generally put their deals up on twitter.
Anything like spanners and Allen Keys are worth getting good stuff for. Cheap stuff can chew up bolts as they might not have the tolerance on size quite right.
I'm not sure there's one particular brand that is my go to. I do have quite a bit of Park stuff but some do seem ridiculously overpriced and not really that great - screw drivers and cable cutters for example.
I have bought some Halfords Professional spanners based on a recommendation from a work colleague who does kit cars. Seems decent quality and were slightly cheaper than a bike specific set.
I am stuck for good screwdrivers though. Don't know if it's just me but most of the bike sized cross points seem to either chew screws as they're not quite the right size or are made of cheese and are useless in 6 months.
Bike specific stuff - either Park (if you are going to use it a lot, or have lots of money) or some of the cheaper stuff for occasional use.
For non-bike specific stuff (hex keys, spanners, etc) then look at Bondhus, Teng, Britool, Bahco, etc.
It is pointless spending £££ on Park hex keys when Bahco are probably better for less money.
I've got a roll cab full of Halfords Pro sockets/spannets, and despite years of heavy use on old Landrovers, etc I've not broken any of it.
allan23 - re your issue with cross point screwdrivers chewing screws, if you mean the adjustment screws in Shimano gears then it's because the screws are made to the Japanese International Standard (JIS) and not Philips or Posidrive which have a different shaped tip and chew the screw heads.
This video explains why JIS is the right tool for the job from 1min 20secs in: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/top-five-bike-tools-the-pro-mechanics-love-45914/
What's required is a JIS screwdriver like the Vessel Megadora 900 Series JIS Cross point No 2 x 100mm I got mine from an international seller on Ebay after failing to find a suitable supplier in the UK at a more reasonable cost: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VESSEL-Megadora-900-Series-P2x100-JIS-2-Cross-Point-Tip-Screwdriver-/121837527589?hash=item1c5e152225:g:UOEAAOSwAYtWMEud
Cheers superleggero, you might just have nailed it there.
Gear adjusting is about the only job I use a screwdriver for (apart from the big flat bladed one for popping pistons back).
I'll go on a hunt online for one.
I've been using the small screwdriver blade on my Swiss Army 'Climber' knife to adjust limits screws, V-brake spring tension etc for the last 25 years...
Having sold on my last headset press a few years back, I recently installed a headset with one of these DIY set-ups (big threaded bolt with plate and nut on each end). Savings not worth the associated stress, I'll be buying another headset press.
I don't think "high price" or good quality tools are necessary really. Decent allen keys are worth while, although you shouldn't be doing bolts up that tight that it matters too much.
I've yet to buy a chain whip, I just use an old length of 9 speed chain; fit's in the toolbox better aswell!
I recently got an x-tools star nut setter.
Wow, what a truely satisfying tool to use!
If you don't have one and foresee ever having to fit a new star nut get one!
And a telescopic magnet, them things save your life so many times!
The star setter is great.
See also crown race removal tool.
Cassette tools
BB tools
chain whip
chain pliers
park hex keys big and small range.
cable cutters
rubber hammer
steel hammer
few screw drivers
torx keys
cone spanners
pliers
spoke wrench
tyre levers
Knife
bike stand
bowl to put bits
cloth
builders gloves
grease gun
chair
radio
Good side cutters will go through gear and brake outer first time, pretty cleanly. I use CK ones, and have a half round file handy to take sharp edges off too, and a little awl for the plastic liner.
Specific tools you actually need:
Cable cutters
Cassette tool
BB Tool
Chain Whip
Spoke Keys
Tyre Levers
Most other stuff is generic or you can just buy when you actually need it. Things like headset cup removers and bearing presses are nice to have but you might only use once a year.
Yeah, my Swiss Army knife has an awl, too...
What are chain pliers? Another name for a chain breaker tool?
Other stuff I've used in the last 6-8 months:
chainring bolt peg spanner
cut-off length of plastic pipe (to seat a non-split headset crown race on the forks)
Hope drifts to replace hub bearings
Good side cutters will go through gear and brake outer first time, pretty cleanly. I use CK ones, and have a half round file handy to take sharp edges off too, and a little awl for the plastic liner.
I completely F****d side cutters cutting inners (long time ago now!) and found that they didn't cut outers too well either as tended to crush and/or split.
[url= http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000W9N09M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 ]JIS screwdriver here[/url]
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hayes-pad-rotor-alignment-tool/rp-prod35769 ]Hayes brakepad alignment tool[/url], give the arms/legs a wipe with disc cleaner every time you use it
[url= http://www.amazon.co.uk/7-Piece-Hook-Pick-Set/dp/B002EYI19M ]Hook n' Pick set[/url], handy for fiddly little jobs lifting bearing seals/poking into cable outers etc
[url= http://www.acycles.co.uk/ritchey-torque-key-5nm-872.html?utm_source=google_produit_cpc&gclid=CNi8hqvq6MoCFWkUwwodwGYCRA ]Ritchey 5 NM clicker bit holder[/url], handier than a torque wrench
[url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-atd-1-adjustable-torque-driver/rp-prod144472 ]Park Tools dearer, but handier version of above [/url]
I've got lots of standard tools . Halfords professional sockets and spinners have been good to me over the years as have wera and Stanley screwdrivers.
What got me asking was I found an old headset spanner (remember them...) and it was mullered - the jaws were bent etc. can't imagine how that happened...
I was looking for a bb tool and saw the x tools stuff at crc. Just wondered how it compares to park stuff? I guess it's fine for occasional use. It's not like I run a bike shop....
'allan23 - re your issue with cross point screwdrivers chewing screws, if you mean the adjustment screws in Shimano gears then it's because the screws are made to the Japanese International Standard (JIS) and not Philips or Posidrive which have a different shaped tip and chew the screw heads. '
Thanks for this Superleggero and the link Somafunk, I never knew there was special screwdriver. There's nothing more pleasing than using the right tool for the job.
The jis screwdriver I linked to is a pleasure to fettle a mech with, it locks into place with such precision that you can pop it into a b-tension adjustment screw and it just sits there of its own accord without moving or falling out.
I was kinda upset to notice that on my xt 11spd rear mech there is 2mm Allen head bolts in place of the jis screws of old.
Shimano cable cutters TL-CT 12. Can't believe how lonk I used to spend trying to get a nice clean cable cut before getting these.
And if you can find it, the Shimano chain checker is excellent.
Superstar's range is surprisingly good, there's not many stinkers in it. Mostly it's not workshop quality but I have a bunch of it (branded lifeline; the same parts turn up all over the place) and even though I'm a total tool pervert, I'm happy using this stuff. On One have some decent looking options too.
Buying a kit usually isn't good value, but the point of buying a kit is that it comes with stuff you don't need, till 1am the night before the big ride and suddenly you discover you actually do need that thing that you never really knew til now what it was even for. Tools have a way of coming back into fashion- I just fitted a brand new crankset that needed an old internal bottom bracket tool and an oldschool crank extractor, both tools HT2 was supposed to have killed...
I reckon there's 4 good rules for a bike kit. 1, if it comes with nice, individual spoke keys, the whole kit will usually be alright. 2, if it comes with more generic tools like allen keys than it does bike tools, it'll usually be crap. 3, if it's inexpensive but comes with cleaning tools it's basically never good value and 4, it'll usually be missing at least 1 important tool, don't freak out.
Unior are ace from what I've seen, Pedros and Icetoolz are usually pretty reliable, Park do some good stuff but mostly overpriced and some is pretty crap, it's not a brand of quality. Generally don't buy anything non-bike-specific with a bike brand on, allen keys etc, they're rarely all that good and when they are good they're [i]always[/i] too expensive.
Oh, and cable cutters,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Spring-Steel-Wire-Rope-Cutters-Snips-Cutting-Pliers-Tool-Quality-Fence-/251718284261?hash=item3a9b9433e5:g:8uIAAOSwIBBUZeaX
Exactly the same as my unbranded ones, which are exactly the same as £30 Pedros ones. I got the Park ones first, they were never very good, and blunted quickly- now I use them as spoke cutters (which they actually are good at) and as crimp tools for the wee cable end doofers, which they're perfect for. And I use my £6 unbranded cable cutters for everything else, they've done maybe 10 times as many cables without fuss.
My Park cable cutters are still cleanly cutting through cable outers first time every time - at least 10 years later.
Gonna get me one of those jap screw drivers!
Tools I use most:
Hex keys - Get goods ones, mine are Bahco.
Track pump - There are loads out there, mine is a cheap Decathlon job.
Tyre levers - I've always liked my age old Park ones.
Screw Driver - That JIS one linked above is already ordered to replace my old Phillips head.
Cable cutters - I was truly disappointed by my Park ones and ordered a cheap pair from Planet-X, they are way better.
Work stand - You can spend shed loads but mine is a cheap Decathlon job that more than does the job for me.
Large adjustable wrench - Useful.
Pedal spanner - Yes, you can use any old 15mm spanner but a pedal spanner just works better. Mine was a freebie with a bike I bought from CRC
Torque wrench - One with a lower range, 2 - 15nm ish, this will cover the things that need a delicate touch on your bike.
Latex or Nitrile gloves - Why wouldn't you? No loss in dexterity and they stop you getting crap on your hands.
Other things worth buying when you need them:
Triple hex key - One of those with 4, 5 and 6mm hex heads. Quite useful for quick adjustments.
Chain tool - A workshop style one, it makes breaking and fitting a chain so much easier.
Freewheel tool and chain whip - no need to spend good money on these in my eyes.
BB tool - Which one depends on your bike, a press may be needed for newer bikes.
Rubber mallet -Sometimes things need a little persuasion.
Torx keys - Either as an attachment for your torque wrench or as a separate item.
Wire brushes - Useful for cleaning out "stuff".
Grease gun - So much better than a blob of grease on your finger.
That'll do for a starter.
Slightly OT - I need a tool roll to keep all mine in (A tool roll is easier to chuck in a rucksack heading between Uni and home).
Any recommendations?
There's stuff like this for pennies - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-Pocket-Canvas-Storage-Wallet/dp/B002NH8GG8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455015126&sr=8-3&keywords=tool+roll
But if anyone has anything better...
Yes, you can use any old 15mm spanner
Often you can't - some spanners will be too fat for some pedals
daleftw - for a decent tool roll for bike tools I have been using the CK Magma tool roll: http://www.amazon.co.uk/C-k-Magma-MA2718-Tool-Roll/dp/B00517FFRU at £13.45.
It made of quite sturdy nylon and is a good size, accommodating tools as long as a 14" chain whip. Clips shut it securely and nothing has fallen out on the move. Also has a couple of metal eyelets in the top corners so you can hang on the wall and have access to all the tools. Here it is with some bike tools:
And here it is rolled up and ready to travel:
That looks good... I have a wee cheapy roll that I use for other stuff but it's not really big enough for bike tools, P handled allen keys etc.
What are chain pliers?
The best £3 you'll ever spend.
Ok, im now cash poorer, but a JIS screwdriver and Knipex plier richer.
There is no substitute for a quality tool last lasts a lifetime. Thanks for the links!
Does anyone have a decent suspension fork top cap removal tool solution? (32mm I think? or is it 36mm?).
I've read that pro's chamfer the inside face of a standard socket as there is a lip that can damage the finish on the soft aluminium/anodizing.
I see that Abbey Tools make a lovely looking set of 5 for around $150..
I only need a modest version for my RockShox Rev.
18bikes for machined down sockets for top cap removal.
Cheers that man.
Also spied a Hope BB fitting tool on their website that may also make the grade.
Possible tip - having followed all the video links on this thread ive come across one write up that mentions how Park and Snap-On Hex/Torx heads are made by Bondhus - whom are satisfyingly cheaper than Park/Snap-On.



