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I would like to upgrade to 12x142 thru axle from 10mm bolt up on my SB66.
I understand that the yeti chipset is designed to the shimano e-thru standard. So an axle that screws into a nut that is captured by the drive side dropout.
The nut and axle use a M12x1.75 thread, of which the DT swiss RWS and Rockshox Maxle use.
Since i discovered the fact the shimano axles are essentially a 12mm tube which gets tightened down by a much slimmer skewer, this negates the stiffness advantages of going for a 12mm axle, i dont want to go for the shimano option.
I've tried a DT swiss with the shimano nut, it works, as i assume the rockshox maxle will.
So my decision is go RWS or Maxle, which one?
Well mine is a Fox/Shimano type, the same as the fork. Is that an option?
I'm not sure where you coming from about negating the stiffness?
The shimano axle on mine is the same as the maxle on my old remedy?
The RWS on my Tallboy LTC has be hassle free and dead easy to use.
sorry dean but unless you've put the whole range of axles to the test on a lab rig i doubt you'd find the 12 mm shimano wanting. yes it has a slender piece in it but that is purely providing compression across the hub.
anyway, how's the yeti ride?
sorry dean but unless you've put the whole range of axles to the test on a lab rig i doubt you'd find the 12 mm shimano wanting
That's what the rational part of my brain says, the irrational, picky part of my brain won't let it go.
I've gone for the dt swiss option, custom for pivot bikes. The regular dt swiss is for syntace x12 standard, so has a coned head the interfaces with he dropout.
SB -
I have an SB66 alu, it has certainly managed far more than the "occasional trail centre black".Geometry, travel and weight puts is as capable, if not more so than many including the 575, mojo HD, nomad, mega, enduro.
I dont see it as yeti's marketing either, they bill it as an all mountain bike, the go to bike for their riders that shred hard, designed with coil shock in mind, people happily using them for bike park.
It's only magazines that i have seen bill it as a leggy xc bike. The only reasoning i've seen behind it in magazines is that it pedals well and feels firm at the top of the stroke.
My experience of it is that yes, if you're mincing, it does feel quite firm, ride it hard, it is really, really composed, more composed than my old "freeride" frame with coil. I did have to reduce the air can volume to make things more progressive, but i was bottoming riding legit freeride/DH tracks, now the shock is more progressive, i just about use all travel on a 4-5ft drop into a shallow compression that you hit flat out on a local DH track.
It has 150mm of travel, 150mm travel that has to deal with small bumps OR big hits, 150mm of travel cant do both under hard riding.
An earlier post of mine summing it up.
Pedals exceptionally out of the saddle, handles high speed rough, big hits, gaps and drops with the upmost composure.
The mags have a completely different view of it to me, they have the view that it's a leggy trail bike because it isn't "plush" all the time. My view of it is, if it isn't feeling plush, you're not riding it hard or fast enough. If you're all over the brakes going into a steep rocky section slow, it isn't your friend, let off the brakes and go for it, super composed.
When do you need the suspension working its magic to work the terrain, when you're mincing around or when you're pushing it?
The firm beginning stroke also makes it pump really well, as well as allowing the bike to be worked on smoother terrain ala trail centres without sucking up all your energy like a sofa.
So it pedals, it doens't dull out smoother terrain too much plus it's really composed with lots of grip when it's rough/hitting gaps, is there anything else a bike has to do?